WW/RW Showdown - N-914 vs Feynlab Pure Rinseless

Older post..

I`ve recently become a RW/WW fanboy for the convenience.

Has anyone used 3D`s foaming waterless? Where can i get a foam nozzle for a spray bottle like carpro inside i wonder? Maybe i will just buy a bottle of carpro inside too lol

I have carpro ech20 and N914 on the way. Ech20 leaves great gloss, can be steaky. I found just waiting for it to flash/dry really helps when your using it has a WW.
 
noorth said:
Older post..

I`ve recently become a RW/WW fanboy for the convenience.

Has anyone used 3D`s foaming waterless? Where can i get a foam nozzle for a spray bottle like carpro inside i wonder? Maybe i will just buy a bottle of carpro inside too lol

I have carpro ech20 and N914 on the way. Ech20 leaves great gloss, can be steaky. I found just waiting for it to flash/dry really helps when your using it has a WW.
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You can buy foaming regular sprayers from AG. For the 3D you should use a pump sprayer like a IK or a Marolex foamer.

I ‘ve seen it available in canada can’t remember supplier.

The Ammo frothe is a better value as it’s dilutable


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Coatings=crack said:
You can buy foaming regular sprayers from AG. For the 3D you should use a pump sprayer like a IK or a Marolex foamer.

I ‘ve seen it available in canada can’t remember supplier.

The Ammo frothe is a better value as it’s dilutable


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I only want it for bird ````. I doubt i will be picking up those 50$ foam sprayers but your never know, i`ve seen videos and the amount of pumping to get it to foam? I would throw it in the garbage.

I have 2 options actually detail popo has a foaming waterless has well in canada.
 
noorth said:
I only want it for bird ````. I doubt i will be picking up those 50$ foam sprayers but your never know, i`ve seen videos and the amount of pumping to get it to foam? I would throw it in the garbage.

I have 2 options actually detail popo has a foaming waterless has well in canada.
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An Ik is about $35. Get one from AG during a 25% off sale. A foaming waterless feels so maybe ch safer than a normal waterless. Only way I waterless anymore.

AG sells Adg Fuzion which can be used as a bucketor waterless wash.

If it’s slightly dirty i’ll do a rinseless. If it’s normal dirty i use a Foam WW with a pretreat.

Really dirty a bucket wash.


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Clearing up a bird sh*t earlier, my newly acquired Feynlab Pure Rinseless took a significant chunk out of the hydrophobics of IGL premier which was until today working well on a standalone basis (although there is ageing 11 month TAC moonlight and 6 month SC mist buried underneath). This is as WW dilution @ 384:1.. WHY DID I NOT READ THIS THREAD BEFORE BUYING AND TRYING IT!!!!

This stuff is crazily powerful - I`m just not sure a) I would trust it on the freshly applied CarPro SiC on my own car despite how chemical resistant CarPro claim, b) any sealant would hold up to this for any period of time. I have a test panel with Moonlight, KKD Revolve and Premier on it and will bombard it over the next few weeks to see what the longer term effects are. Has anyone found a safe but effective dilution beyond 384:1?

I may end up giving it away / trying to find alternative uses such as removing dust post polishing, pre-IPA wipedown. I don`t buy into RW or WW anyway, this was bought primarily as a bird sh*t remover..
 
atbalfour said:
Clearing up a bird sh*t earlier, my newly acquired Feynlab Pure Rinseless took a significant chunk out of the hydrophobics of IGL premier which was until today working well on a standalone basis (although there is ageing 11 month TAC moonlight and 6 month SC mist buried underneath). This is as WW dilution @ 384:1.. WHY DID I NOT READ THIS THREAD BEFORE BUYING AND TRYING IT!!!!

This stuff is crazily powerful - I`m just not sure a) I would trust it on the freshly applied CarPro SiC on my own car despite how chemical resistant CarPro claim, b) any sealant would hold up to this for any period of time. I have a test panel with Moonlight, KKD Revolve and Premier on it and will bombard it over the next few weeks to see what the longer term effects are. Has anyone found a safe but effective dilution beyond 384:1?

I may end up giving it away / trying to find alternative uses such as removing dust post polishing, pre-IPA wipedown. I don`t buy into RW or WW anyway, this was bought primarily as a bird sh*t remover..
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It trashes sealants (including sio2) and waxes. Worked wonders on my cquartz UK3. Just cleaned it up to add a fresh topper.

Only used as a Rinseless and only use when wanting to re apply something.


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Coatings=crack said:
It trashes sealants (including sio2) and waxes. Worked wonders on my cquartz UK3. Just cleaned it up to add a fresh topper.

Only used as a Rinseless and only use when wanting to re apply something.


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Do you use it regularly or only when adding a new topper? I wonder how it`d hold up using it regularly!

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atbalfour said:
Do you use it regularly or only when adding a new topper? I wonder how it`d hold up using it regularly!

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I would use alkaline products alot in it’s second year. BH auto foam and FPR at least once a month. A Mckee’s coating prep soap every 3 months.

Through 20 months the coating was performing amazing. I did top at 18 months with CanCoat.

It didn’t need it at all but wanted to use it up.


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I’ve not tried Pure Rinseless at 1:384, but will probably try in the future, and only on coatings or if reapplying something. Because I do think it will harm any sealant that I would otherwise want to continue to enjoy.
 
1:384 for waterless is mind blowing. I remember back when I started using Chemical Guys waterless it was 1:8. Then they reformulated it and it was 1:16! Then I found one that was 1:32 and I thought that was the end of the world. 1:384, and it works really well? That`s super difficult for me to comprehend I need to order some of this.
 
acuRAS82 said:
I’ve not tried Pure Rinseless at 1:384, but will probably try in the future, and only on coatings or if reapplying something. Because I do think it will harm any sealant that I would otherwise want to continue to enjoy.
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If it harms even the durable sealants so drastically it`s just not wise to use regularly on coatings.. their hydrophobic properties may take 10 times longer to break down but as chemical testing on YouTube would show, the likes of CQuartz will break down with repeat hits. This product would appear to have an extreme niche... I`ve given mine away already lol!
 
atbalfour said:
If it harms even the durable sealants so drastically it`s just not wise to use regularly on coatings.. their hydrophobic properties may take 10 times longer to break down but as chemical testing on YouTube would show, the likes of CQuartz will break down with repeat hits. This product would appear to have an extreme niche... I`ve given mine away already lol!
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Used it a lot on my CQUK3 in it’s second year. Had 0 problems with degrading and actually did a great job of decontaminating it. Which helped it perform better.

Maybe you shoulda gave a long term try before denouncing it. A sealant, wax and coating are all different chemistry.

Extreme niche.... yes to clean coated vehicles.....it’s why Fenylab made it....


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Feynlab know what they’re doing. It’s what they recommend to wash their coatings with. Their coatings are pretty good, especially the new Ceramic V2 and the Ceramic Ultra.
 
I`ve been really happy with both Pure Rinseless and Pure Wash. I use both at a slightly lower dilution ratio than specified. Both of our cars are coated. I think that Pure Wash is a little less aggressive than Rinseless. Both still seem to degrade the Griots Glass Sealant on the windshield. Lately I`ve been trying to use up the rest of my soap collection so Feynlab has been on the shelf. Rinseless though will be my go to for winter washes in the garage.
I`ve also found other uses for Rinseless. Towel pre-soak. Pre-treatment on heavy soiled paint or bird bombs. Grill exterior cleaner in a spray bottle. Soaked my daughter`s white gym sneakers in it. They came out not perfect, but a lot better than a typically wash in laundry soap.
 
William_Wallace said:
before I coat a car I have this in sprayer and lay it on heavy and let it dwell then wipe up as it’s drying I’ll use ipa to me I believe I’m getting a cleaner surface than just ipa
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Just tried this today and it works remarkably well for this purpose.

Few well respected pros in the UK use a MF saturated in onr to remove the actual polish from the surface, supposedly excellent on soft sensitive paint likely to enduce marring when removing spent polish and clear with short pile cloth. I tested the same principle today, only using PR in place of ONR, with a very oily compound broken down so easily then the residual mopped up very easily with a dry MF. Surface felt and even under lights looked like it`d just been panel wiped.

I did do a final wipe with my normal panel wipe before coating but genuinely the surface felt or looked no cleaner. I normally panel wipe immediately after polishing a larger section and at the end, instead this method (as well feeling safer for sensitive paints) produced similar results at far lower cost.

I don`t know why I was surprised by the light work it made of polishing oils, having seen how it stripped igl from my wife`s roof a few weeks back.

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I finally got around to washing my car with PR and was surprised to see how much color was pulled out of my clean towels into the leftover solution in the bucket. The light blue dilution took on the color of the green and orange towels I used so it`s now a light brownish orange. That aside, it did clean the car and wheel faces very very well. N914 will still be what I grab to for quick little things but for a full wash PR will be my go to.
 
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