The right sealant for my tastes

GBynum

New member
I have never used a sealant before and honestly had never even heard of it before I started doing detailing research. I have made a few mistakes so far, but the information in these forums has been great!



I just bought a gorgeous 2013 Mustang GT a few months back. It's a nice, pearlescent, aptly named, Deep Impact Blue.

I already have Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax, but I want to put on a sealant first. From what I have read here, applying a sealant before the wax will give longer lasting protection and a better shine.



That is my goal:

1. Longer lasting protection than wax alone.

2. Better shine, gloss.

3. A wet look, without looking tacky.



So considering what type of look I want, and given that the color ranges from pure blue to very dark blue (depending on light conditions), what are some recommendations?



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Nice car!! Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax is a polymer sealant as is Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax, but the liquid will not stain trim. They are great products and appear to be very durable.
 
Thank you! It's my baby haha.



So I guess you're saying I shouldn't need a sealant? That's good to hear! As it is I spend way too much time doing this. I'm trying to find ways to cut down on the time without sacrificing quality. So forgoing another step will definitely help, thank you! :spot
 
Some OTC waxes will remove some of the sealant due to the solvents/cleaners. I have done one of those and Meguiars #21 came out great and has great life.
 
Jesstzn said:
Some OTC waxes will remove some of the sealant due to the solvents/cleaners. I have done one of those and Meguiars #21 came out great and has great life.



Yeah Meg's 21 is what I was looking at. So if I do M21 with the Ultimate Wax, you think that would be good?
 
I believe what Jesstzn was saying is that if you layer some OTC waxes on to a sealant they might remove the sealant so you have to be careful. M21 is also a polymer sealant and I don't think there would be much advantage nor much difference in look to layer 21 over UPW since both are sealants. What many do is put down a layer of sealant then after 12 hours of cure time put on a coat of pure carnuba wax which is supposed to increase the "wet look"
 
Meguiar's calls all their consumer Last Step Products (LSP's) a wax. While most are really polymer sealants and a couple are hybrid combinations of natural waxes and polymers. I believe they feel that Joe consumer who goes to an automotive store looking for something to protect their paint would look for a wax. Hence they call the protection product a wax. Joe consumer may not be aware of the tech differences between a wax and a sealant and might even be intimidated if called a sealant.



In your case, Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax is really a synthetic sealant that does a good job in all three categories, appearance, protection and durability. Note that the paste wax version of Ultimate Wax can stain trim while the liquid will not. If you like the look of this product and wish to extend the life, consider also using their Ultimate Quik Wax spray (also a sealant) after every wash or two to keep the initial slickness and appearance intact. This is a wipe-on/ wipe-off product much like a quik detailer and can be applied to trim as well as paint in under 10 minutes. I buy this in gallon size from their detailer line where it is called X-press Synthetic Spray Wax (D156).
 
pwaug said:
I believe what Jesstzn was saying is that if you layer some OTC waxes on to a sealant they might remove the sealant so you have to be careful. M21 is also a polymer sealant and I don't think there would be much advantage nor much difference in look to layer 21 over UPW since both are sealants. What many do is put down a layer of sealant then after 12 hours of cure time put on a coat of pure carnuba wax which is supposed to increase the "wet look"



From what I have read, it is best to do the sealant first, then the wax on top of that. So my plan was to do a sealant first, then the UPW, but I guess you're right that's pointless if UPW is a sealant. So which pure carnuba wax would you recommend? And would you recommend the M21 as the sealant or liquid Ultimate Wax?



jfelbab said:
Meguiar's calls all their consumer Last Step Products (LSP's) a wax. While most are really polymer sealants and a couple are hybrid combinations of natural waxes and polymers. I believe they feel that Joe consumer who goes to an automotive store looking for something to protect their paint would look for a wax. Hence they call the protection product a wax. Joe consumer may not be aware of the tech differences between a wax and a sealant and might even be intimidated if called a sealant.



In your case, Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax is really a synthetic sealant that does a good job in all three categories, appearance, protection and durability. Note that the paste wax version of Ultimate Wax can stain trim while the liquid will not. If you like the look of this product and wish to extend the life, consider also using their Ultimate Quik Wax spray (also a sealant) after every wash or two to keep the initial slickness and appearance intact. This is a wipe-on/ wipe-off product much like a quik detailer and can be applied to trim as well as paint in under 10 minutes. I buy this in gallon size from their detailer line where it is called X-press Synthetic Spray Wax (D156).



Yeah, Meguiar's naming conventions really make hard to figure out what the stuff really is, especially for a new guy trying to learn all this stuff.



I already had a hell of a time getting some paste wax off the trim, so I'll be switching to the liquid.

I have been doing the quick wax spray after most washes, but I didn't know you could buy it in such large quantities. I may have to start another thread on translating Meg's consumer chemicals to pro. I am tired of buying 16oz bottles of Ultimate Quick Detailer and Hot Rims Aluminum Wheel Wash.



Would you agree with pwaug that a pure carnuba wax after the sealant is a good idea, and if so which carnuba wax do you recommend? And which sealant would you recommend: stick with the liquid Ultimate Wax, or switch to the M21?
 
I also just found out about BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, which I think is a sealant. It looks gorgeous in all the pictures, but it's really expensive.
 
You can layer a pure wax over a sealant, but you mentioned your trying to save time. Why not use a high quality hybrid wax like Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Pro? Its they best of both worlds and cab be applied in 1 step to clean paint and is layer-able. Its a very fine wax.



Honestly, I can think of no better wax for your car.
 
GBynum said:
I also just found out about BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, which I think is a sealant. It looks gorgeous in all the pictures, but it's really expensive.



Recently used a sample of BFWD--nice sealant, but I didn't see much difference than using DuraGloss 105 which is 1/4 th the cost of BFWD.



Don't think it makes much difference if you use ULW or M21 if you're going to coat it with a carnuba as it will be masked by the carnuba and both of those sealants have great durability.



If you want the protection of a sealant and the look of wax you might want to consider HD POXY-- it's a hybrid sealant/Montan Wax--looks great on it's own, but really looks fantastic if topped with Chemical Guys V7 (suggested by Dan on this forum). Should look awsome on the Blue Beast, won't break the bank and both are really easy to use.



HD Poxy, 16 oz. - 3D/HD



Chemical Guys Hybrid V-7, 16 oz. - Chemical Guys Quick Detailers & Spray Waxes



Shipping is free if the order is over $25 and under 5 lbs
 
GBynum said:
From what I have read, it is best to do the sealant first, then the wax on top of that...Would you agree with pwaug that a pure carnuba wax after the sealant is a good idea..[?]



I find that in most cases the sealant w/wax topper isn't necessary or even desirable. There are so many good products out there these days that you can usually find something that has all the attributes you value in one LSP.



There can be some minor tweaks in appearance from doing the topper, but IMO that doesn't justify making it impossible to layer on more sealant later (the sealant can't bond to the wax) and one of the primary advantages to sealants is that they can be layered to a) provide added protection (and sometimes better looks) and b) make ongoing upkeep very easy for a long, long time.



Yeah, you can simply keep reapplying the wax if you do decide to do it. But as waxes "die" and need redone, IME they generally don't do so as "cleanly" as a sealant; I can keep adding more sealant for ages, but with waxes I often find I need to redo the prep to some extent to start with a clean(er) slate.



While it's not a hotness-type product, if you want to use a wax I'd simply get some Collinite. Their 845 liquid doesn't stain trim. Note that Collinite waxes are probably closer to sealants than to "waxes", but IMO that's immaterial. Good durablity, protection, and IMO looks.



The closest thing to a "pure carnauba" I use is Pinnacle Souverän. It doesn't stain trim IME and it looks swell, but it barely lasts from one wash to the next (good thing it's easy on/off!) and it only provides moderate protection against stuff like bird-bombs and bugs.



I also just found out about BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, which I think is a sealant. It looks gorgeous in all the pictures, but it's really expensive...



The expense shouldn't be all that bad as one bottle oughta last for many years if you apply it properly thin. BF's AFPP has a very "carnauba-like" appearance; I find it "darkens" paint a bit much for my taste in most cases (way too much on silver). Note that despite being a "sealant" it doesn't last very long, certainly not any longer (or as long?) as Collinite. IME it only provides moderate protection against the birds and bugs, not *nearly* enough protection for me (it's very much like 4-Star's UPP in most regards, but the UPP doesn't darken as much).



If that were my Mustang, I'd just prep it well (note that I'd say that even if it were still sitting on the truck in the wrapper ;) ) and then apply a coat of FK1000P. Next wash (don't mar it when you wash/dry it :grinno: ;) ) I'd apply a second coat of the FK. Then maybe a third after the *next* wash, and I'd simply live with it for a while and see how I liked the whole experience (looks, protection, durability, everything). Note that a few coats of FK1000P oughta last for many, many months.



It is a paste though, so I'd keep it off trim or at least buff it off immendiately before it dries.



If you don't like how it looks after a few weeks you can always top it with a wax (but then you can't layer on any more FK1000P).

Swanicyouth said:
Why not use a high quality hybrid wax like Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Pro?



Remember my story about how the "detailing expert" thought that the concours car I did with Collinite had Dodo on it because "nothing else looks like that!" :rolleyes: :chuckle:
 
MDRX8 said:
pwaug,



I have been shouting about V-7 for months on this forum. It is a must have for me !!!!



OOPS!!! Sorry, I thought it was Dan who had made the suggestion. In anycase, the look of V7 over Poxy on my wife's non-metallic black Golf is fantastic and very slick. The V7 seems to be holding up for 3-4 weeks to top it off. Only takes 10-15 minutes to add another coat of the V7. Thanks for the tip!!!!!!



EDIT: I'm really hoping HD Gloss will be even better than V7 since it will be in the HD line and designed to work with HD LSPs
 
Wow you guys are giving me a ton of great options, thank you. So it looks like I'll be going with a single product since you guys all seem to agree a good sealant should do the trick.



Accumulator said:
If that were my Mustang, I'd just prep it well (note that I'd say that even if it were still sitting on the truck in the wrapper ;) ) and then apply a coat of FK1000P. Next wash (don't mar it when you wash/dry it :grinno: ;) ) I'd apply a second coat of the FK. Then maybe a third after the *next* wash, and I'd simply live with it for a while and see how I liked the whole experience (looks, protection, durability, everything). Note that a few coats of FK1000P oughta last for many, many months.



I just did an Amazon order last night so that I can apply some protection this weekend (had to return my car cover so it's totally exposed). I like what I'm reading, so I think I'm going to go with the FK, but it'll have to wait until next time.



Now when you say to prep first, that does include washing, right? And then you wash again after applying the first coat of FK? Why not just add a second layer without washing in between?

Sorry for the newb questions.
 
pwaug,



No problem, I think Dan got the suggestion from me but who cares!!! The fact is that CG V-7 contains some serious gloss enhancers!!





pwaug said:
OOPS!!! Sorry, I thought it was Dan who had made the suggestion. In anycase, the look of V7 over Poxy on my wife's non-metallic black Golf is fantastic and very slick. The V7 seems to be holding up for 3-4 weeks to top it off. Only takes 10-15 minutes to add another coat of the V7. Thanks for the tip!!!!!!



EDIT: I'm really hoping HD Gloss will be even better than V7 since it will be in the HD line and designed to work with HD LSPs
 
GBynum said:
..Now when you say to prep first, that does include washing, right? And then you wash again after applying the first coat of FK? Why not just add a second layer without washing in between?

Sorry for the newb questions.



By "prep" I meant a lot more than washing. though that is the first step.



I myself would do a decontamination with ValuGard's "ABC" system (some people would just clay instead, but I consider the two processes different things for different situations), then some sort of polishing with something like HD Polish or with an All-In-One product. *THEN* apply the Last Step Product. Gotta decontaminate/clean the paint before applying the LSP, and the polishing is what really makes a car look good.



Yes, even brand-new cars should, IMO, be decontaminated. And I can count on one hand the number of new cars I've seen that didn't need some degree of polishing (and I've seen a *lot* of new cars ;) ).
 
pwaug said:
OOPS!!! Sorry, I thought it was Dan who had made the suggestion. In anycase, the look of V7 over Poxy on my wife's non-metallic black Golf is fantastic and very slick. The V7 seems to be holding up for 3-4 weeks to top it off. Only takes 10-15 minutes to add another coat of the V7. Thanks for the tip!!!!!!



EDIT: I'm really hoping HD Gloss will be even better than V7 since it will be in the HD line and designed to work with HD LSPs





I can't believe a spray on holds up that well. I was honestly skeptical when you posted that.
 
Accumulator, I'm going to have to reply to yours later when I'm not at work. You have the most intriguing responses, in a good way lol.
 
[Yes, even brand-new cars should, IMO, be decontaminated. And I can count on one hand the number of new cars I've seen that didn't need some degree of polishing (and I've seen a *lot* of new cars]



I'd second this.



FWIW- I use Opti-Coat and then an organic wax
;)
 
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