The right sealant for my tastes

Accumulator said:
By "prep" I meant a lot more than washing. though that is the first step.



I myself would do a decontamination with ValuGard's "ABC" system (some people would just clay instead, but I consider the two processes different things for different situations), then some sort of polishing with something like HD Polish or with an All-In-One product. *THEN* apply the Last Step Product. Gotta decontaminate/clean the paint before applying the LSP, and the polishing is what really makes a car look good.
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My plan was to wash, polish, wax, then wash and wax again per your suggestion. I have clay barred before, but I was recently told that is abrasive and shouldn't be done unless necessary.
 
Optimum Opti-Eraser – Fine Grade is gentle on paint. Most all new cars need a clay job done on them. Many cars are shipped by rail and this adds rail dust to your new paint. Claying if done right will cause no abrasions on your paint.
 
MDRX8 said:
Optimum Opti-Eraser – Fine Grade is gentle on paint. Most all new cars need a clay job done on them. Many cars are shipped by rail and this adds rail dust to your new paint. Claying if done right will cause no abrasions on your paint.
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I have clayed the entire thing since I bought it. I didn't even know "rail dust" was a thing. Do I really need to do it every time I do a full detail?
 
GBynum- The claying can be a bit more involved a discussion than one might first imagine!



There are different grades of clay, from aggressive "overspray" stuff to versions that are so mild that (if used properly) they merely "clean the wax".



Leaving the abrasive stuff out of the discussion, claying oughta be basically nonabrasive (the clay glides along on a film of lube until it bumps into some contamination, which it then shears off), but there are lots of qualifiers and it can be easy to mar your paint when claying (most people go about it wrong/carelessly) so I generally recommend chemical decontamination instead using the ValuGard ABC system, which also does a more thorough decontamination as it gets down into the pores/microfissures/etc. of the paint whereas clay works on top of the paint.



I then use *very* gentle claying to do the "clean the wax" thing as needed. No, IME you do not need to do it every time you detail, but once again there are lots of "if"/"and"/"but" things to consider and many people do clay at every major detail.



The "ABC" system is merely a series of three washes using products named "A", "B", and "C". Quite easy, very effective. IIRC, Ford dealers are supposed to do it, but I doubt that many ever do.



And yeah, ferrous contamination from things like "rail dust" can indeed be an issue. Fortunately for you your blue paint doesn't show the effects of it nearly as badly as say...white or silver. But I still like to start with a truly clean slate.



You mentioned polishing. Polishing, in the usual sense, *is* abrasive, and is done to remove/reduce marring (swirls/scratches/etc.) and improve gloss.



And that brings up the big subject of POLISHERS...Polishing by hand is a relatively futile endeavor best left for tight spots that you can't reach with a polisher. (Short version: buy a Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher. Yeah, really. Don't hesitate, don't debate the cost, just buy it. Gee, between "ABC" and a polisher, it sure is easy for me to spend your money, huh? :chuckle: )
 
Hey, thinking of another thread that David Fermani and I are posting on...



If you're not gonna get a polisher and really go to town on this thing, you could do a *LOT* worse than cleaning the paint with AutoGlym Super Resin Polish ("SRP"), which you can do by hand, and applying the FK1000P over top of that. The SRP doesn't get much attention here but it's very good stuff (keep it off black trim though).
 
With all the excellent options already provided, this may sound silly, but I will go ahead and say it anyway :).



Full prep + 1st hand of glasur, next wash (say 1wk later) 2nd hand of glasur, next wash (say 1wk later) S100 top-up and maintenance with FK146.



Deepest mirror look I've had for quite a while.
 
Sorry, I haven't had time to get on here in a couple days. I really appreciate all of your great suggestions! I'll get on later today and reply.
 
You're going to have to work very hard to beat the looks, protection and durability of Megs ULW. Others have recommended good products, but IMO, nothing else comes close for all around performance. Its a sealant with wax like looks that is durable and offers excellent protection from the environment.
 
Lots of great info in here! I've been creepin' around on Autopia for a little while now and figured I'd finally join so I can ask questions and absorb more info from the more experienced. Anyway keep up with the great discussions!
 
So I know I have been very negligent of this thread. I apologize, I definitely appreciate all the help you guys have given. I was really super busy for a couple weeks, then the last couple I haven't wanted to look at anything having to do with cars. Why? The Blue Beast is no more. A lady turned left in front of me without looking and I couldn't stop in time. I'll find out tomorrow if it's totalled. It better be totalled :pray2:, given the amount of damage, but the only reason it wouldn't be is because it's brand new. I just bought it in May, only had ~4600 miles. I fully intend on replacing it with an identical car, so I'll post some pics of Blue Beast II as soon as I get it! And then I'll continue studying up on detailing so I can get it a nice thick coat of protection before winter hits.



I uploaded a bunch of photos if you want to check them out. The car looks rather shiny despite the damage! http://www.autopia.org/gallery/browseimages.php?do=browseimages&c=3&userid=75221&page=1
 
Honestly, given the incompetence of most body shops you are probably better off if the car is a total. Whatever you get to replace it, I'd go with Opti-Coat 2.0 and be done with waxing/sealants for the next 10 years or so.
 
GBynum said:
I have clayed the entire thing since I bought it. I didn't even know "rail dust" was a thing. Do I really need to do it every time I do a full detail?
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Do I need to Clay my Surface?



Claying is not always necessary. However, chances are if you need to ask that question, your vehicle has never been clayed and you will likely have to take action. To verify if your vehicle is in need of claying conduct the ‘Bag Test’-

After washing and drying your vehicle place a plastic sandwich bag over your hand or fingers, gently pass over the surface. Does the surface feel silky smooth or rough and gritty? If you felt roughness and/or grit, your surface is contaminated







TOGWT Blog: A detailing knowledge base -Detailing Clay - TOGWT: Detailing Clay



 
Scottwax said:
Honestly, given the incompetence of most body shops you are probably better off if the car is a total. Whatever you get to replace it, I'd go with Opti-Coat 2.0 and be done with waxing/sealants for the next 10 years or so.
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I full agree! I could make a whole separate thread about the hell I went through trying to get my hood corrected. Fortunately, they did total it, and I replaced it with a nearly identical car.  :D The dealer managed to find a car a year newer, same color, same everything really except the wheels. Oh and this one has upgraded gears so it's actually faster. 


 
Accumulator said:
GBynum- That was quite a hit, glad you're OK.
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Thank you! Yeah I had to get MRIs and xrays and all kinds of good stuff, but it seems I'm good now.


 
TOGWT said:
Do I need to Clay my Surface?

<span style="color:#0000CD;">Claying is not always necessary. However, chances are if you need to ask that question, your vehicle has never been clayed and you will likely have to take action. To verify if your vehicle is in need of claying conduct the ‘Bag Test’-
<span style="color:#0000CD;">After washing and drying your vehicle place a plastic sandwich bag over your hand or fingers, gently pass over the surface. Does the surface feel silky smooth or rough and gritty? If you felt roughness and/or grit, your surface is contaminated



TOGWT Blog: A detailing knowledge base -Detailing Clay - <span>TOGWT: Detailing Clay

 
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That's good advice, I'll have to try that test! Thank you.
 
I second that suggestion. Pricey but worth every cent. Can do several vehicles with one kit and would be surprised if it doesn't last at least a year. I've had one last almost 2 years on black sitting outside 24/7.
 
GBynum said:
I just did an Amazon order last night so that I can apply some protection this weekend (had to return my car cover so it's totally exposed). I like what I'm reading, so I think I'm going to go with the FK, but it'll have to wait until next time.

 



Now when you say to prep first, that does include washing, right? And then you wash again after applying the first coat of FK? Why not just add a second layer without washing in between?

Sorry for the newb questions.
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Good call on Finish Kare.


 


As far as why wash between layers, my opinion is that it is best to let the sealant (FK in this case) bond/adhere/crosslink to the paint for atleast 12 hours, 24 hours may be better.  In that time frame, dust, dirt, whatever could settle on the paint and you want to remove that before applying more sealant so as not to mar the paint.


 


I have also heard (I have no idea if this is true) that many sealants and waxes have ingredients in them that keep the product in a liquid or paste form.  After the product has dried and solidified on your paint, some of that stuff is left over on the surface and you want to wash it off before applying another layer.  Again, have no idea if this is true but, a quick wash is so easy, I don't mind it.
 
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