ONR, clay, Klasse AIO = seeking advice on my upcoming car cleaning

Accumulator said:
That's fine and is, in fact, a good way to do it. No, you shouldn't need to redo the 845 for a good long time unless the ONR washes somehow mess with it, and even then you can just redo the 845. No need to redo the AIO/SRP until you're "starting over from scratch".
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So I can do either ONR/Spray Wax or ONR/845 (but probably no need for 845 unless I see a real difference in that the ONR might be affecting it)?



The wash-and-spray wax should be fine; all I do is wash and spritz on some leaves-stuff-behind QD (basically the same thing you're contemplating). I'd concentrate on dialing in a non-marring wash technique.
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Yeah, need to make sure my wash media stays clean and I'm using good MF throughout all my processes (as you've been helping with on the other thread).



Thanks again!
 
john1r said:
So I can do either ONR/Spray Wax or ONR/845 (but probably no need for 845 unless I see a real difference in that the ONR might be affecting it)?
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Right :xyxthumbs Fortunately, redoing the 845 goes pretty quick and easy when that's needed. You'll probably feel a drop-off in slickness as the first clue.



Yeah, need to make sure my wash media stays clean and I'm using good MF throughout all my processes (as you've been helping with on the other thread)...
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And use minimal pressure, with short, interrupted strokes (short scratches being less obvious than long, sweeping ones).

Thanks again!
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My pleasure, I enjoy helping people with this stuff.
 
Accumulator said:




My pleasure, I enjoy helping people with this stuff.
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Well in that case... :) I have a question related to a 2000 silver maxima (not my black audi).



The car has only ever been through regular drive-through washes. I was thinking though of using it as a 'practice' car for some of the products I want to use on my audi.



Is it a bad idea to go from a drive through wash, drive a mile to home, then just do a spray wax, 845, or sealant? Or is it really best to do either a polish or an AIO before the wax/sealant?



At this point the car has plenty of small dings, scratches, etc... so I really don't 'care' about it, and don't care if it looks better after waxing than it does now. I just don't want to 'ruin' anything by going sstraight from a wash to a wax/sealant.



Thanks!
 
john1r said:
Well in that case... :) I have a question related to a 2000 silver maxima (not my black audi).



The car has only ever been through regular drive-through washes. I was thinking though of using it as a 'practice' car for some of the products I want to use on my audi.



Is it a bad idea to go from a drive through wash, drive a mile to home, then just do a spray wax, 845, or sealant? Or is it really best to do either a polish or an AIO before the wax/sealant?
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The biggest problem with that IMO is that the automatic wash won't get things really clean, and thus you'll end up grinding abrasive contamination into the paint when waxing/AIO-ing/etc.



So at the very least I'd also do a claying (to remove that contamination), then a polish (to reduce the marring some), then AIO/LSP.



Yeah.... even on a beater you don't care about ;)
 
Based on what I have read Klasse AIO should be fine on a fairly new vehicle without a polishing process because it has capabilities of a very light polish that removes light swirls. Especially on a new car with only 1,000 miles.
 
shadowstep said:
Based on what I have read Klasse AIO should be fine on a fairly new vehicle without a polishing process because it has capabilities of a very light polish that removes light swirls. Especially on a new car with only 1,000 miles.
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IME KAIO has never removed any marring. None. Never. Simply too mild in that regard. And I won't generalize about new vehicles because I've seen brand new cars (nice, expensive ones too...six-figure rides) in showrooms that need a wetsand to fix all the flaws! Most of the time, new cars that I didn't unwrap myself needed a light compounding before the finishing polish. There've been exceptions, but most dealership prep guys do pretty awful damage with every wash.



Heh heh, hope I don't sound too :argue towards a new member :o Welcome to Autopia :wavey
 
Accumulator said:
The wash-and-spray wax should be fine; all I do is wash and spritz on some leaves-stuff-behind QD (basically the same thing you're contemplating). I'd concentrate on dialing in a non-marring wash technique.
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So we had some great (cool) NY weather this weekend so I did another wash.



My method was to wash each panel with ONR using my MF wash mitt, then pat it down a little bit with a plush MF, then spray at most 2 spritzes of the Hydro, then wipe down the panel with a plush MF and then a slightly less plush MF (with this last MF I made sure to go slow over the whole panel making sure that I got it totally dry/buffed the Hydro). For the windows I just did ONR and dried.



The car looked great in the shade, but once I took it in the sun I noticed hundreds of little spots on both the paint (mostly the hood) and the glass. To me it looks like water spots, but I'm no expert and perhaps you guys would know if it's something different (too much spray wax?). The engine/hood was probably still a bit warm when I did the wash/spray wax, so perhaps that caused the issues on the paint? But I don't know how I could have spots on the glass. I tried using a little Adam's detail spray and it would not remove the spots from the paint or the glass (I've never heard of glass getting 'stuck' with spots like this). What could I have done wrong?



I then drove 30 minutes back from my folks house to my apartment, and with the hood being quite warm I sprayed a bit of Adam's detail spray onto a plush MF and tried wiping down a 'spotted' section of the hood, thinking that perhaps the warm engine would help remove whatever was there. It actually seemed to work pretty well and I think I got most of the hood 'clean', though I need to go back into the sun tomorrow. I then tried wiping down the windows a bit and got some of the spots, but not all. Again, how could glass become so 'stained' with spots??



Unfortunately all I had was my cell phone but here's what I was able to take:



1G4i.jpg




Thanks as always for any help!
 
john1r- Spotting on glass can be incredibly tough to correct, you might even need a "glass polish".



Maybe the water you mixed your ONR with had some minerals in it or something...my ONRing goes best (which isn't always saying much :o ) when I mix it up with deionized water. That's despite my water already being double-filtered and softened.



This shows a potential shortcoming of washing in the shade; yeah...good for keeping the surface temp down, but you can't see problems as they develope and that can lead to unpleasant surprises later.



You *did* show good thinking with the "gradually less gentle" wash techniques :xyxthumbs BUT...I can't help but wonder if you got things truly clean before switching from the ONR to the Hydro :think: I myself would've done more passes with the ONR, even on a "not really dirty" car.
 
Accumulator said:
john1r- Spotting on glass can be incredibly tough to correct, you might even need a "glass polish".



Maybe the water you mixed your ONR with had some minerals in it or something...my ONRing goes best (which isn't always saying much :o ) when I mix it up with deionized water. That's despite my water already being double-filtered and softened.



This shows a potential shortcoming of washing in the shade; yeah...good for keeping the surface temp down, but you can't see problems as they develope and that can lead to unpleasant surprises later.



You *did* show good thinking with the "gradually less gentle" wash techniques :xyxthumbs BUT...I can't help but wonder if you got things truly clean before switching from the ONR to the Hydro :think: I myself would've done more passes with the ONR, even on a "not really dirty" car.
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Thanks. It's the same water I used last time and I did not have these issues. Then again, last time I did the KAIO after the wash so perhaps that helped remove them if they were there?



For the actual washing, I used one side of MF mitt for half a panel then other side for rest of panel, then rinsed the mitt and redid panel again. So I think I got it pretty clean, but then again it's becoming quite apparent that I'm just not very good at any of this...
 
john1r- Never tried it, so I hesitate to comment, but if they say i works best via rotary then I'd be very surprised if it'd work effectively (or at least efficiently) by hand on an Audi. Even M105 (and even the old v1.0 stuff that's most aggressive) takes forever to do much of anything and I can pretty much count on one hand the products that'd be worth trying for that at all.



Same ol' same ol'....for by-hand work on an Audi you'll need either M105 or Ultimate Compound to remove anything significant, followed by something to restore the gloss (and even that will need a fair amount of cut just to accomplish that).
 
Accumulator said:
john1r- Never tried it, so I hesitate to comment, but if they say i works best via rotary then I'd be very surprised if it'd work effectively (or at least efficiently) by hand on an Audi. Even M105 (and even the old v1.0 stuff that's most aggressive) takes forever to do much of anything and I can pretty much count on one hand the products that'd be worth trying for that at all.



Same ol' same ol'....for by-hand work on an Audi you'll need either M105 or Ultimate Compound to remove anything significant, followed by something to restore the gloss (and even that will need a fair amount of cut just to accomplish that).
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Fair enough. I'll probably just try SRP to hide it, and perhaps get it professionally taken care of at some point down the road if it gets worse...



Thanks again!
 
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