ONR, clay, Klasse AIO = seeking advice on my upcoming car cleaning

john1r- Sorry, but not surprised, to hear you've discovered the marring. FWIW, I hardly *EVER* see an Audi (or anything else) that isn't marred up, not even the ones in my dealer's showroom.



Removing the marring is opening a can of worms; it's really tough to correct Audi clear. It would call for a polisher and the right products/approach. I'd guess that you don't want to go there, at least not now. If I'm mistaken, let me know and I'll advise to the best of my ability.



If you're not mechanically/abrasively removing the marring, that leaves concealing/"filling" it to make it less obvious. The concealing will generally last until the fillers wash/wear/dissipate away. That can be forestalled to some extent by topping the concealing stuff with a durable wax, like the Collinite.



SO...I get back to my soapbox-speech about something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, which will clean the paint and hide the marring to some extent (nothing works miracles here...). IMO that's the best you can do working by hand and SRP is a great choice for this. Only real downside is that it's less exterior-trim friendly than the KAIO, so do test spots in inconspicuous places before using it on such materials.



Then top the SRP with Collinite and redo the Collinite whenever the beading (or some other characteristic) changes. If/when the marring starts to be more obvious (i.e, "comes back"), redo the SRP.



NO, it shouldn't "look worse" even if you don't do things 100% perfectly, and that's a big factor in my suggestions regarding which products/processes you might oughta employ. BUT...marring is cumulative, and I gotta warn you that washing without instilling (new/additional) marring is very, *VERY* difficult...a subject upon which I can sometimes expound like you can't imagine ;)
 
Hi again. One more quick question before I hopefully give this a try next weekend (weather-dependent): how much time do I need between steps? I've decided to wash/clay/KAIO/845. I assume no time delay between wash/clay/KAIO, but is there a certain amount of time between the KAIO and 845 (or in between any other steps)?



Thanks again!!
 
well if i were you, i'd just do an IPA wipedown and take off the oils and fillers from the KAIO...BUUUUUT if you're doing this by hand...then i think you're ok to put the 845 on right after..
 
KAIO doesn't leave any oils or fillers behind and doesn't need any special curing time. You can do all those steps one right after the other. However, I would add another wash cycle after your claying.
 
Thanks for the updates on the curing time. Sorry, one more 'final question': can anyone provide specific advice on how much of the 845 I should apply to each panel?



I've been reading this post (http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/132077-problem-collinite-845-leaving-residue.html) and getting a bit nervous...



I was going to use a Viking microfiber applicator pad, and wanted to know if I should use a dime-sized drop, nickel, quarter, etc... I understand that I'm supposed to put it on very thin and don't want to overdo it.



Thanks again!
 
John my rule of thumb is simple--thick enough to where you can see the streak of hte product, but not so thick that you can't see the paint through the product...i have yet to use the 845, but I use MAYBE an oz for a car...
 
Make you really shake the bottle, it should be as thick as half and half. I'd say prime the pad with to nickel sized drops and then use about a dime sized drop for most panels. You want to keep enough on the pad so that it doesn't drag. As soon as you feel it dragging, add another dime sized drop. 845IW is sooo easy to work with, don't let it scare you.
 
yakky said:
.. I'd say prime the pad with to nickel sized drops and then use about a dime sized drop for most panels. You want to keep enough on the pad so that it doesn't drag. As soon as you feel it dragging, add another dime sized drop. 845IW is sooo easy to work with, don't let it scare you.
Click to expand...



I'd try to use even less than that, but yeah, that "enough that it doesn't drag" is great advice :xyxthumbs



I tend to use a few smaller amounts rather than trying to evenly distribute nickel-size ones throughout the pad, but that's just me.



As noted, 845 is generally a very user-friendly product. Until I read about some of the troubles people here were having, I considered it pretty much foolproof (heh heh, it is at least Accumulator-proof :D ), at least when used on paint that's well prepped/in good condition.
 
Thanks again for the updates. Also, once I'm done with a panel should I wipe with a MF? Or wait until whole car is done and then go back around with an MF?
 
john1r- I usually wait until I've applied to the whole car, and that's how I did 845 the last few times I used it. And FWIW, those times were on my beater-Audi, which has paint that's soooo compromised that, well, you can't imagine. When I do something wrong, that car lets me know right away but the 845 has been nice and easy to get right.
 
Hi again! I've taken lots of notes from your posts above and I just wanted to confirm the following steps 1 last time to make sure I have all my information correct:



1. Wash with ONR & dry with MF towel



2. Immediately after wash/dry I will clay using Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and ONR as the clay lubricant (in the proper ratio). After claying I will dry with MF towel (is this last part correct)?



[do I need another wash cycle here as someone suggested?]



3. After claying and drying (and possibly washing again) I will apply KAIO using either a MF cloth or Viking microfiber applicator pad, which I will moisten with water. I will use a very small amount per panel. Immediately after wiping on a complete panel, I will wipe off with a clean MF. Also, I can use KAIO on ALL exterior parts such as glass, trim, side mirrors...?



4. Immediately after KAIO I will apply Collinite 845 using a Viking microfiber applicator pad. I will shake the bottle well and use a very small amount per panel (just enough so that the pad doesn't 'drag'). Once I finish 845ing the entire car, I will then go back and wipe with MF towels (or should I wipe each panel off before moving on, I've been reading mixed reviews on this?).



Also, regarding any/all of the steps above (but mainly 3 and 4), what's the best way to apply the product (i.e. just go back and forth with overlapping strokes making sure I've covered the whole panel, use circular motions, DON'T use circular motions to help avoid swirling?, etc...).



Thank you again!!
 
john1r said:
Hi again! I've taken lots of notes from your posts above and I just wanted to confirm the following steps 1 last time to make sure I have all my information correct:



1. Wash with ONR & dry with MF towel



2. Immediately after wash/dry I will clay using Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and ONR as the clay lubricant (in the proper ratio). After claying I will dry with MF towel (is this last part correct)?
Click to expand...



Yes, correct, so far so good.



[do I need another wash cycle here as someone suggested?]
Click to expand...



It just depends how "cleanly" the claying goes so there's no way to say for certain. I'd plan on doing the extra wash but then see if it's really necessary. If you even *suspect* that it is, go ahead and do it.



3. After claying and drying (and possibly washing again) I will apply KAIO using either a MF cloth or Viking microfiber applicator pad, which I will moisten with water. I will use a very small amount per panel. Immediately after wiping on a complete panel, I will wipe off with a clean MF. Also, I can use KAIO on ALL exterior parts such as glass, trim, side mirrors...?
Click to expand...



Don't overdo the moistening of the applicator. Sounds like you have the right idea.



Yeah, you can use KAIO on everything, though *I* don't use it on glass (that's just me). On black plastic/etc. trim, I'm a little more careful than normal to buff it off thoroughly before it dries, and when you use it on stuff like that (especially rubber) it can *REALLY* stain your applicator, to the point where you'll want to get out a new one.

4. Immediately after KAIO I will apply Collinite 845 using a Viking microfiber applicator pad. I will shake the bottle well and use a very small amount per panel (just enough so that the pad doesn't 'drag'). Once I finish 845ing the entire car, I will then go back and wipe with MF towels (or should I wipe each panel off before moving on, I've been reading mixed reviews on this?).
Click to expand...



I apply to the whole car and then buff off. Check that it's ready by doing the finger-swipe test; it oughta come off clean and dry when you wipe gently with your finger. Also, I like to fog the surface being buffed with my breath; the little bit of moisture that condenses on the panels makes this a lot easier with no downside.



Also, regarding any/all of the steps above (but mainly 3 and 4), what's the best way to apply the product (i.e. just go back and forth with overlapping strokes making sure I've covered the whole panel, use circular motions, DON'T use circular motions to help avoid swirling?, etc...).
Click to expand...



Since KAIO and 845 are both functionally nonabrasive (and I'm assuming your appication/buffing media are too), it doesn't matter. Note that if there *is* anything abrasive contaminating things, a circular scratch will be more obvious than a straight one, but I never worry about that. For that matter, consider that many of us do all this stuff by machine and those sure don't move in straight lines :D
 
Sorry, one more quick one: after the 845, do I need to wait any specific amount of time before driving?



Thanks again!
 
Accumulator said:
...I get back to my soapbox-speech about something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, which will clean the paint and hide the marring to some extent (nothing works miracles here...). IMO that's the best you can do working by hand and SRP is a great choice for this. ... If/when the marring starts to be more obvious (i.e, "comes back"), redo the SRP.
Click to expand...



Hi all. I wanted to jump back into my old post here and ask a follow-up about swirling. Would something like Meguiar's Swirl X help to fix/hide minor swirling on my black audi? Or am I better off just trying the SRP to see what it can do?



Thanks!
 
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