FK1 1000P Vs. Winter: Results

Dunbar42- Since you have a black car I'll spare you my usual "don't top it" lecture :D I *would* put down anothe coat or two of the FK1000P though. I bet the more you work with it the more consistent the application will get.
 
Any further insights on FK 1000P on top of DG 501 (or a 501/601 combination)?



Any experiences with FK 1000P on top of Klasse AIO or AIO plus SG?
 
What sort of insight? The thing I like about 501 is it's really easy to apply/remove by hand. You can slather it on as thick as you want and it has no effect on removal. The trick with 1000p is application, you need to train yourself to apply a thin coat otherwise it can be finicky to apply or difficult to remove if you overdue it.



I added a second coat of 1000p, I think I prefer the look to Pink Wax. We'll see how it stands up sitting in 90+ degree sun we get all summer in the LA valleys.
 
DON'T judge the appearance of an FK LSP immediately after application or on the same day. Wait 3-4 days to see the final clarity and definition. Strange, but these liquids cure that long.



For example I don't care the look of the 216 when fresh, but after 4 days, I LOVE it. Yes, the difference is that much. You can observe the long curing/improving with ALL FK LSPs.
 
Bence- Did you ever reconcile their supposed layerability (with minimal waiting) with the way FK LSPs continue to cure/etc. over time?
 
To a certain extent yes, when I applied different FKs onto the top of each other. There were no bonding issues, just nice, durable results. But the layerability can be observed when you use 2180 (the most finicky one). Certain paints slurp the first layer up in no time. It may spread difficult. And with each subsequent layer things improve dramatically. The second is already easier, and as the surface *saturates*, it goes on like butter, stays on the surface, hazes over relatively quickly and very easy to remove. It (and 218) has the most immediate look of the FKs I tried.
 
Bence,



With these 3-4 days time for the look to appear, do you think if the finish gets wet during that time it compromises durability? So far I've had not so impressive beading from 1000p and I'm trying to figure out what is the cause. From the sound of most comments about it, it should be awesome beads and slickness that I should be finding. I'm not really getting that so far, in a couple of different attempts. One thing is my cars sit outside so 3-4 days cure time means getting hit with dew every night.
 
Technically moisture disturbs the curing, so I'd try to avoid dew exposure for 12-24 hours. But the film is tough enough (theoretically) after a couple of hours.



Check your 1000P on different surfaces, different cars to see its beading to identify the issue. If it fails to perform, maybe the tin is defective. If not, switch to a different prep plan to avoid bonding issues. Certain paints behave strangely, and no matter what you use on them, you won't get good durability.
 
Bence- Thanks for the additional info. And you're right..some paints are simply more finicky than others and the same approach just won't work for every car.
 
Bence said:
DON'T judge the appearance of an FK LSP immediately after application or on the same day. Wait 3-4 days to see the final clarity and definition. Strange, but these liquids cure that long.



For example I don't care the look of the 216 when fresh, but after 4 days, I LOVE it. Yes, the difference is that much. You can observe the long curing/improving with ALL FK LSPs.
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Is it ok to top 216 with 1000p? I thought I would ask before ordering 1000p along with some other FK products. Thanks.
 
nosbusa1700 said:
Is it ok to top 216 with 1000p? I thought I would ask before ordering 1000p along with some other FK products. Thanks.
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Yes, I've used Pink Wax over 216 so I'm sure 1000p would work fine. I'm pretty sure all of their LSP's are compatible the entire FK1 line.
 
Dunbar42 said:
Yes, I've used Pink Wax over 216 so I'm sure 1000p would work fine. I'm pretty sure all of their LSP's are compatible the entire FK1 line.
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I figured they might be compatible, but figured I would ask first. lol



Bence, what works best before 1000p? 215 AIO, or 216 Glaze & Sealant? Can 215 be use first followed by 216, or would I need to choose one or the other?



Thanks guys.
 
215 is already an excellent AIO with decent, 2-3 month durability on its own. A good base for any LSP, not just the FK ones.



216 is a carnauba/synthetic blend. FK specifies it as the closest thing to a liquid Pink Wax.
 
Bence said:
215 is already an excellent AIO with decent, 2-3 month durability on its own. A good base for any LSP, not just the FK ones.



216 is a carnauba/synthetic blend. FK specifies it as the closest thing to a liquid Pink Wax.
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What would be the best look "products you would recommend" out of the FK line with 1000p as the LSP? Would you buy the 1000p, or the Pink Wax as your LSP?



That way I know exactly what FK products to buy. I already have a sample bottle of 216 and a gallon of 425.



Thanks again.
 
I'm thinking about trying 1000p and a few other FK products.



I already have a gallon of 425 and 4-5 oz of 216.



What are some of the other products that work well/go with 1000p? I started to buy the other day, but didn't really know what went with what. I also didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff that I may not need, or use.



Also, I'm likely staying with the no rinse option, so I don't think I need their car wash stuff. Unless it's necessary.





Thank you for the help.
 
nosbusa1700 said:
I'm thinking about trying 1000p and a few other FK products.



I already have a gallon of 425 and 4-5 oz of 216.



What are some of the other products that work well/go with 1000p? I started to buy the other day, but didn't really know what went with what. I also didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff that I may not need, or use.



Also, I'm likely staying with the no rinse option, so I don't think I need their car wash stuff. Unless it's necessary.





Thank you for the help.
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DWG works great with 1000P
 
I was told that as well. Must be a good product.



I may end up trying FK's 300 glaze. Especially if I order a few items from them. Shipping for DWG is almost the cost of the product.



Thanks for the reply.
 
OCKlasse said:
DWG works great with 1000P
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Maybe it's just my paint, but DWG w/ 1000p looks like crap on my car, I've tried it under and over 1000p. (Anthracite- Dark blue/gray). I just stick with 1000p now.
 
mhuie said:
Maybe it's just my paint, but DWG w/ 1000p looks like crap on my car, I've tried it under and over 1000p. (Anthracite- Dark blue/gray). I just stick with 1000p now.
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DWG followed up with 1000P is a staple on most every detail I do. If looks could kill...:bat
 
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