Finally used my sample of the new Optimum Coating

What kind of prep do you have to do for Opti-Coat ????



Scottwax said:
True, but then why wax or seal the paint at all? The more durable the sacrificial barrier covering the paint, the better.
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For any coating, you have to prep the paint perfectly. Coatings can fill up very minor imperfections, but they aren't designed to do that. They will do nothing with deeper swirls, so when you lock them in with a coating, they are set.



Application is different too. Some coatings are sprayed on (most wasteful), some can be wiped on/off easily. Most of them has an absolutely grabby, bare paint feel yet they shed water like hot iron. The Optimum is a very friendly product as it can go on top of every surface & material and is slick. It has an excellent appearance too. Some coatings are designed for painted surfaces, but nono on plastics, glass, etc.



For the wipe-on types, a flat, lint free applicator is great. Better quality cosmetic makeup pads, flat, fine MF pads are excellent.



Layerability is a funny thing because as you try to apply a new coat over an existing one, the new one beads up immediately when sprayed on, and sometimes under the MF app. Yes, it can be done, but the application must be very focused to avoid a patchy, uneven result.



Don't wash the car for at least 48 hours (preferably 1-2 weeks).
 
So you would use s polish to remove existing waxes and sealants? How About it Scottwax? How did you prep?





Bence said:
For any coating, you have to prep the paint perfectly. Coatings can fill up very minor imperfections, but they aren't designed to do that. They will do nothing with deeper swirls, so when you lock them in with a coating, they are set.



Application is different too. Some coatings are sprayed on (most wasteful), some can be wiped on/off easily. Most of them has an absolutely grabby, bare paint feel yet they shed water like hot iron. The Optimum is a very friendly product as it can go on top of every surface & material and is slick. It has an excellent appearance too. Some coatings are designed for painted surfaces, but nono on plastics, glass, etc.



For the wipe-on types, a flat, lint free applicator is great. Better quality cosmetic makeup pads, flat, fine MF pads are excellent.



Layerability is a funny thing because as you try to apply a new coat over an existing one, the new one beads up immediately when sprayed on, and sometimes under the MF app. Yes, it can be done, but the application must be very focused to avoid a patchy, uneven result.



Don't wash the car for at least 48 hours (preferably 1-2 weeks).
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Still waiting for my sample too........

I think you could find a place for this product in just about every application we face. Who doesn't want a durable product on their paint protecting it? No one said you can't wax over it. I see it *almost* as adding an additional layer of clear over your existing paint. How many people with single stage back in the day wouldn't want that? On that thought, I wonder what UV barrier (if any) this product provides?
 
David Fermani said:
Still waiting for my sample too........

I think you could find a place for this product in just about every application we face. Who doesn't want a durable product on their paint protecting it? No one said you can't wax over it. I see it *almost* as adding an additional layer of clear over your existing paint. How many people with single stage back in the day wouldn't want that? On that thought, I wonder what UV barrier (if any) this product provides?
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Yes, in theory you could find an application for this. The BIG question that still remains is, how much is it going to cost your client for you to put it on? Another big unknown is the cost to the professional detailer. Thirdly, on average, how long will the product last, not based on "claims" but unbiased testing. Still, many questions need answered.
 
What about the dirt that stick to paint, that can't be washed off but has to be removed by clay, a degreaser or a cleaner or polish. How do you remove it without removing the protection? And I think you should get paint clean a few times per year at least. For me something like Opti seal is the longest lasting protection I really need.
 
Mark77 said:
What about the dirt that stick to paint, that can't be washed off but has to be removed by clay, a degreaser or a cleaner or polish. How do you remove it without removing the protection? And I think you should get paint clean a few times per year at least. For me something like Opti seal is the longest lasting protection I really need.
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You can't remove coatings with clay, degreaser or similar. They have to be polished away. An IPA wipedown usually freshens them up.
 
MDRX8 said:
So you would use s polish to remove existing waxes and sealants? How About it Scottwax? How did you prep?
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I didn't do anything special. I had last waxed it with Fuzion in November and while my paint looked decent, the beading was getting a bit loose. Probably didn't help that I went 4 weeks without washing it after my surgery mostly because once I recovered enough to wash my car, we had ice a couple weeks in a row. That sand and whatever else they mix in to spread on the roads here is tough on LSPs if you don't wash it off quickly. I just washed my car with ONR and applied the sealant.



Expanding on David's point, this would be a good product for customers who like you to use a beauty wax on their car. Most of them look terrific but don't last all that long. The coating would give you pretty good protection (again, assuming this product is everything it is said to be) regardless of the longevity of what you apply over it.
 
Scottwax said:
I didn't do anything special. I had last waxed it with Fuzion in November and while my paint looked decent, the beading was getting a bit loose. Probably didn't help that I went 4 weeks without washing it after my surgery mostly because once I recovered enough to wash my car, we had ice a couple weeks in a row. That sand and whatever else they mix in to spread on the roads here is tough on LSPs if you don't wash it off quickly. I just washed my car with ONR and applied the sealant.



Expanding on David's point, this would be a good product for customers who like you to use a beauty wax on their car. Most of them look terrific but don't last all that long. The coating would give you pretty good protection (again, assuming this product is everything it is said to be) regardless of the longevity of what you apply over it.
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Assuming of course that a wax on top will indeed alter the look of the coating.
 
I'd probably use PO85RD and the apply Opti-Coat.



Scottwax said:
I didn't do anything special. I had last waxed it with Fuzion in November and while my paint looked decent, the beading was getting a bit loose. Probably didn't help that I went 4 weeks without washing it after my surgery mostly because once I recovered enough to wash my car, we had ice a couple weeks in a row. That sand and whatever else they mix in to spread on the roads here is tough on LSPs if you don't wash it off quickly. I just washed my car with ONR and applied the sealant.



Expanding on David's point, this would be a good product for customers who like you to use a beauty wax on their car. Most of them look terrific but don't last all that long. The coating would give you pretty good protection (again, assuming this product is everything it is said to be) regardless of the longevity of what you apply over it.
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Cleaning Fool said:
Assuming of course that a wax on top will indeed alter the look of the coating.
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...or that you'd even want too. It has a really sick glow on my car. Going to be weird not doing anything but wash my car for a long time but I'm not sure topping it with anything would give me a better look than it has now.
 
Update for those interested in how the coating beads. No rain really in sight for Dallas and my car was dusty (hardly any rain here for 6 weeks, everything is dusty!) so I went to the local coin-op, washed it down with their soap (not being gentle with the coating, I want to see how it responds to less than Autopian care) and then hit it with the high pressure rinse then the spot free rinse.



Here is a video:



YouTube - Optimum Coating



And some beading pics...my car is an '02 (June '01 build date) so the paint doesn't bead like a new car would with the same LSP. Noticed the same phenomenom with my old Accord after it was wrecked and the front end repainted. No matter what wax or sealant I used, the front end with the new paint beaded much better.



With the coating, my paint beads up just like new paint with fresh wax.



3072My_Maxima_OC_beading1.jpg




3072My_Maxima_OC_beading2.jpg




3072My_Maxima_OC_beading3.jpg




I'll post updates as warranted.
 
I'm having a hard time distinguishing this "coating" from say, a consumer level clear coat. Meaning, if one was to apply this, what difference will it provide compared to a thin layer of clear? If it's almost as durable as a clear and if you have to mechanically polish it off like a clear, won't it ultimately just be another layer of "paint" that you'll want to protect and visually enhance with a traditional wax/sealant?



It's definitely an interesting concept and I can see pros and cons for it.



@Scott - Thanks for that video demo. Can you compare the look of this product to anything else on the market, or is the "coating" neutral in appearance?
 
Amused said:
I'm having a hard time distinguishing this "coating" from say, a consumer level clear coat. Meaning, if one was to apply this, what difference will it provide compared to a thin layer of clear? If it's almost as durable as a clear and if you have to mechanically polish it off like a clear, won't it ultimately just be another layer of "paint" that you'll want to protect and visually enhance with a traditional wax/sealant?
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If by an "extra layer" of paint you mean "an extra, wetter layer of paint" then I guess it is. I really can't see a point in topping it if you want to retain the beading/sheeting ability.



@Scott - Thanks for that video demo. Can you compare the look of this product to anything else on the market, or is the "coating" neutral in appearance?
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The coating definitely adds gloss and wetness. Sort of like Opti-Seal, maybe a bit wetter looking.
 
Scottwax said:
The coating definitely adds gloss and wetness. Sort of like Opti-Seal, maybe a bit wetter looking.
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To be honest Scott are there any other benefits other than extra durability over Opti-Seal which itself last a hell of a long time and appears to be easier to apply and remove ?
 
This thread has actually gotten kind of interesting...kind of like the argument of whether a clear bra should have LSP...do you protect the protectant, etc. And would you use this if the factory coating was more durable and beaded like "new paint" for 10 or 12 years instead of 2 or 3 years. Interesting things to muse on.
 
If this product can protect the surface from wash induced scratches then its promising, if not its just a long lasting coating that will be removed when I polish the car again.



Is this product going to be sold to dealerships?



Cheers,

GREG
 
Greg Nichols said:
If this product can protect the surface from wash induced scratches then its promising, if not its just a long lasting coating that will be removed when I polish the car again.



Is this product going to be sold to dealerships?



Cheers,

GREG
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These type products generally sell for over $1000 an application. It's gonna have a very small potential market. This won't appeal to leasers.
 
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