BillNorth is the man! (and his klasse technique)

jgv said:
You're not maximizing it's cleaning ability using a cutting pad, what you're doing is rubbing a somewhat harsh foam pad in the surface, a pad designed to be used with compounds to remove more severe damages on the paint. What happens when you use it with finishing product is that you're causing marring to the surface.



Uhm, actually, using a cutting pad does increase a polish/cleaner's effectiveness.



Don't knock in theory what works in practice. I'm gonna have to agree with BillNorth on this one.



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23482



Quote, "after I buffed out the AIO I considered going over it again with DACP but there really wasn't a need. It was a pretty clear surface without any marks"



This thread shows what AIO can do when applied with a Maroon cutting pad. One poster even states that AIO is more effective with a rotary.



And finally, in MY experiences with AIO, it's one of the few products that can be applied via a cutting pad without leaving any hazing or marring. In fact, AIO & 1Z's Metallic polish are the only two that *I* am able to apply via yellow CMA pad with no left-over marring.
 
dtsang said:
i tried the 2 panel method on the sg, apply one -> apply two -> buff one -> buff two. it came off fairly easily but i had to go back because it looked like there had been spots that i had missed(streaking). after i thought i had gotten all of it, i come back the next day to find the oily streaks that i've seen mentioned in another post. any tips so i don't have this happen the next time around?





Did you shake well before applying? It helps. I know you have to shake AFPP also to have it work correctly.
 
Intermezzo said:
Uhm, actually, using a cutting pad does increase a polish/cleaner's effectiveness.



Don't knock in theory what works in practice. I'm gonna have to agree with BillNorth on this one.



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23482



Quote, "after I buffed out the AIO I considered going over it again with DACP but there really wasn't a need. It was a pretty clear surface without any marks"



This thread shows what AIO can do when applied with a Maroon cutting pad. One poster even states that AIO is more effective with a rotary.



And finally, in MY experiences with AIO, it's one of the few products that can be applied via a cutting pad without leaving any hazing or marring. In fact, AIO & 1Z's Metallic polish are the only two that *I* am able to apply via yellow CMA pad with no left-over marring.



Thanks for backing me up Tony! :D I didn't want to get into another heated discussion.



And as you said, using AIO with a cutting pad can improve AIO's cleaning ability. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this. :cool:
 
As far as I recall, that was a situation where he wanted to remove heavy oxidation from a red truck, and the owner was satisfied with the results as he saw the oxidation gone. If your cars are that bad, that's ok. It's not a 'newbie' thing using the right pad with the right products for the right propose. And by the way, I don't get in heated discussions about this kind of things...I don't have to convince nobody to know when I'm right. :xyxthumbs
 
~One man’s opinion~



I’ve been detailing cars since ‘50s and know everything there is to know (about the first 2% the other 98% I still learning) I’m sure there are professional detailers and other with Y years of experience that don’t have a “post count of X’ but does that make them any less knowledgeable?



To put it another way if I (an architect) had 1000 posts would that make me an expert on detailing?





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



~ justadumbarchitect ~so I question everything ~
 
jgv said:
As far as I recall, that was a situation where he wanted to remove heavy oxidation from a red truck, and the owner was satisfied with the results as he saw the oxidation gone. If your cars are that bad, that's ok. It's not a 'newbie' thing using the right pad with the right products for the right propose. And by the way, I don't get in heated discussions about this kind of things...I don't have to convince nobody to know when I'm right. :xyxthumbs



I'm sorry, I didn't intend the word 'newbie' to be harsh. Yes, you do have more posts than me. I don't necessarily think that matters though. I had the benefit of joining autopia when many very experienced detailers posted here (Beau, Don, Brad B., David, Richard/neo, Tony, etc). I learned a great deal from them and I'm very thankful for having had the opportunity to exchange ideas with them. Some of them still post here frequently, while others do not. Now that's not to say that there are not many experienced detailers here right now, because there are. It's just that autopia is a much different community. It's hard to explain. I guess you had to be here when I was to really know what I'm saying.



As for the AIO topic. I never said you were wrong in using a finishing pad with AIO, I do the same thing as well. But I also feel it is important to be PROACTIVE when caring for your paint. If that means using AIO with a cutting pad to maximize AIO's cleaning ability, then so be it. I've used it with great results as a pre-wax/SG step, that's why I advocate it.



And BTW, I never said you were wrong. But you seem to think I am with what you wrote in your last sentence. :rolleyes: :nono . It's that kind of attitude that has made autopia different... in a bad way. Instead of slamming me, why not try it for yourself?



I am stern believer in my ways, and I show it in my posts, but I also try to see other points of view. For example, I applied SG back to back to back like RJJ advocates to see if how his method works. We all know how I believe in waiting at least 24hrs to let SG cure (based on many findings). Regardless of that I still gave his method a shot. It's what autopia is all about. It's what we do here, or used to do. :rolleyes:



Anyway, jgv, great god of detailing, glad to have had this discussion with you... :xyxthumbs
 
Guys,



Considering that this thread has a lot of valuable information, I had to clean it and move it to Detailing Product Discussion.



I know we might rib one another every once in a while, but the sniping that was in this thread was not acceptable. I know it's kind of rough for some of us who cannot detail but this is not a forum to take out those issues on anyone.



If I see any more threads with any sniping, this thread will be closed.
 
PrinzII said:
Guys,



Considering that this thread has a lot of valuable information, I had to clean it and move it to Detailing Product Discussion.



I know we might rib one another every once in a while, but the sniping that was in this thread was not acceptable. I know it's kind of rough for some of us who cannot detail but this is not a forum to take out those issues on anyone.



If I see any more threads with any sniping, this thread will be closed.



I agree. BUT, I wish that you did not edit jgv's post. Sometimes it's good to let the rest of the community see us for who we really are. Cutting and pasting things makes us all look better, but it does not help us guage whether or not we can trust or believe in a person and their findings. This is not a shot at jgv, he's just an example. I myself can be rough around the edges, but I'd rather have ppl see that and make a decision about me based on that than some 'fluffed' up version that you guys put out there.



Just my $0.02. Bottom line is, I don't run this place, you guys do, and I appreciate all your work! :bow
 
When using AIO on a white car whith some paint problems should I cut it with MCCP then apply AIO and buff on wipe off? Is everyone applying the AIO by hand or is anyone applying with a PC and what method works best? Can you use AIO and than a carnubua wax instead of SG?
 
Bill North is now my newest and bestest buddy! :bow



I had a silver BMW Z4 to clay, polish and use the Klasse twins on (owner request). Clayed the horizontal surfaces (brand new car, but has some minor imbedded grit) and then I polished the whole car with Vanilla Moose. Followed with AIO, then applied SG the Bill North way. Both I and my customer (who has experience with Klasse SG using the damp/dry mf towel removal system) were amazed at how easy it was to remove SG applying it and removing it one panel at a time, even on a cool day (mid 50s maybe?). I didn't see any hazing or residue, and you could look from one panel to next after applying SG to one of them and see the improvement in gloss, so I know I wasn't wiping all the SG right back off.



This method sure makes SG much easier to use!
 
Scottwax said:
Bill North is now my newest and bestest buddy! :bow



I had a silver BMW Z4 to clay, polish and use the Klasse twins on (owner request). Clayed the horizontal surfaces (brand new car, but has some minor imbedded grit) and then I polished the whole car with Vanilla Moose. Followed with AIO, then applied SG the Bill North way. Both I and my customer (who has experience with Klasse SG using the damp/dry mf towel removal system) were amazed at how easy it was to remove SG applying it and removing it one panel at a time, even on a cool day (mid 50s maybe?). I didn't see any hazing or residue, and you could look from one panel to next after applying SG to one of them and see the improvement in gloss, so I know I wasn't wiping all the SG right back off.



This method sure makes SG much easier to use!



WOW!!! This is great news!! Scott, buddy :D , I'm glad you gave this app/removal technique a shot! And I'm even happier that it worked out well for you. Makes SG soooo much easier to work with.



Now I'm waiting for jngr and SL to try it out. Curious to see what they think as well.



Bill.
 
BillNorth,



Bill, you 'da man! :bow I have used PUPP in the past but never had the 'guts' to try SG.



The other day I decided to try your method of SG application and removal on our new 2004 X5 with titanium silver paint. I only had enough time to apply and remove SG to the hood and fenders but WOW, what a shine! :xyxthumbs



Here is what I did:



1. Apply AIO by hand to fender or 1/2 hood section and remove with mf towel. It came off easy as usual.



2. Apply SG by hand to fender or 1/2 hood section and remove with new mf towel. Removing SG this was is about as easy as removing AIO! :D



The instant gloss that was achieved was unreal!



I took clients out in the rain today, but as soon as I have a chance to QEW wash and apply AIO and SG to the rest of the X5, I will post some pics.



Thank you Bill North for your inspiration to get me to try SG!



Cheers,
 
BlueZ71 said:
Scottwax - did'nt the AIO remove the VM?



The very mild abrasives in VM will polish the paint to a very high gloss.. Even though AIO will remove the oils in VM, the car surface will still benefit from the initial VM application..



This is from what I understand.. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
AMP01 said:
BillNorth,



Bill, you 'da man! :bow I have used PUPP in the past but never had the 'guts' to try SG.



The other day I decided to try your method of SG application and removal on our new 2004 X5 with titanium silver paint. I only had enough time to apply and remove SG to the hood and fenders but WOW, what a shine! :xyxthumbs



Here is what I did:



1. Apply AIO by hand to fender or 1/2 hood section and remove with mf towel. It came off easy as usual.



2. Apply SG by hand to fender or 1/2 hood section and remove with new mf towel. Removing SG this was is about as easy as removing AIO! :D



The instant gloss that was achieved was unreal!



I took clients out in the rain today, but as soon as I have a chance to QEW wash and apply AIO and SG to the rest of the X5, I will post some pics.



Thank you Bill North for your inspiration to get me to try SG!



Cheers,



You're very welcome! I'm glad I could be of service!! :up I wanna see some pics too!



Bill.
 
I'm not sure if this info was posted already. Should i apply the AIO the billnorth method also? and if i use the Poorboys S&W as a QD between layering SG will that have any effect on it?
 
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