BillNorth is the man! (and his klasse technique)

Bill, glad to see my experience is similar to yours with regards to the slickness, but I am getting the itch to try your application method. I may need a fresh kit for Christmas. On your Z trial I'd be surprised if you were not happy with it.



Al, good to hear you are back in business with Klasse. Ok, you have a fresh SG and Z on the cars after the first wash I'd love a follow up on how they feel btwn the two.



LC :)
 
Likecars said:
Bill, glad to see my experience is similar to yours with regards to the slickness, but I am getting the itch to try your application method. I may need a fresh kit for Christmas. On your Z trial I'd be surprised if you were not happy with it.



Al, good to hear you are back in business with Klasse. Ok, you have a fresh SG and Z on the cars after the first wash I'd love a follow up on how they feel btwn the two.



LC :)
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well the Z already got its wash on the C320 and beaded up great! Hopefully the ML might squeeze one last hand wash in before winter... we'll see!
 
After reading this thread, and having done the wife's Passat last week (using 1 hour drying time for 2 coats of SG - 24 hrs apart), I just did the black MB using the 'no wait time' method (again, 2 coats of SG - 24 hrs apart).



I can definitely say that 'no-wait' is much easier, and left a perfectly clear paint - no streaking. The results were truly the best I've ever had on this car.



Now I've got two cars, prepped the same way (Dawn wash, Griot's #3 polish using PC, 2 x AIO using PC, 2 x SG). The only difference in the treatments was that the SG on the Passat was allowed to dry for an hour before wiping off, the SG on the Benz was removed immediately (1-2 minutes). I'll post any durability differences as winter moves along.



One side note: When SG was left un-wiped on the glass sunroof of the Benz, it formed a VERY stout, very sticky film. Attempting to wipe off this film resulted in stripping fibers from the MF cloth I was using. It was almost like trying to wipe off sticker adhesive using an MF cloth. After employing some alcohol to clean the glass, it came right off. I don't recall SG behaving like this on paint - but it certainly is harder to wipe after drying for an hour.



Thanks for the tip, guys!
 
I spent 2 days over Turkey Day weekend working on my Lightinig. Did a full DACP, SMR, FP on all exposed paint. After 2-3 panels, went back a applied some AIO. Next day hit the hood with SG and had major problems - I used a 4 inch yellow foamie and could not get it on thin enough and ended up getting ridges and blobs of the SG everywhere. After waiting for it to haze over, I couldn't touch it with a dry microfiber. I looked as if I had applied red acrylic paint with a spatula! WHAT A DISASTER! :scared



Then I remembered had bought some SONUS HIGH GLOSS ACRYLIC SPRITZ a couple of months ago (Klasse friendly), so sprayed some on a MF and ALL THE BLOBS, RIDGES AND OTHER IMPERFECTIONS WIPED AWAY IN AN INSTANT and all that was left was an awsome shire. On the rest of the vehicle, I used a water wet, but almost wroung out (ligltly damp), MF folded to 6 layers to apply the SG - MUCH SMOOTHER APPLICATION (ie - no spatula look) and after hazing, finished off with a squirt of SONUS on a MF and finally a dry MF. Vehicle is awesome in sunlight and just sparkles under the lights at night. :D :D :D



When to a local show on Sat night and found a couple of spots I missed buffing out some scratches and a few other spots where there was a little "haze" left from the SG :down. Thanks God for the SONUS - does it come in gallon jugs?????
 
Didn't bring my Sonus, or anything else for that matter. Truck looked perfect in the bright sunlight and the haze and scratches only showed up under the lights at night
 
Sonus is definately another alternative for removing SG. But why pay 15 bucks for a QD when you can pay $0 using the wipe on wipe off technique????
 
Didn't/couldn't remember the damp wipe in time, and being in a small state of panic at the time, the Sonus was the only alternative that came to mind at the time. Next layer I will use the BN method
 
Hey Bill or anybody for that matter,



I have already applied TS on top of my SG, and I was wondering if I can wash and re-apply SG on top of TS? Thanks for advice!



Also, don't mean to jack this thread but did I read that you can apply AIO with a pc? If so what are the advantages over applying by hand? The reason I ask is because I received a phamplet w/ my AIO & SG on how to apply each product and it said that when applying AIO to rub hard, but NOT to DIG IN. Seems to me that applying with a pc would be Digging in? Thanks again



Eric
 
I used the PC to apply the AIO primarily because I find that I get much more even application using the PC.



I've tried to apply other products by hand, and had differences due to uneven application (could be I'm just inept). Using the PC, it is very easy to go over each panel several times, thinning out the application with each pass, and ensuring that no parts are missed. The thinning down with each pass also makes removal of the product that much easier (less excess to be removed).



I found no down side to applying the AIO with the PC. It is quick, it is easy (saves wear & tear on the shoulders), and it works well. EDIT NOTE: Used a single spray of Griot's Fast Shine on PC Pad, and one small dab of AIO, for each application on each panel.



I never bear down (dig in) on my PC. I set the PC at about speed 4, and lightly guide the PC over the surface - letting the tool do the work.



I applied AIO to one panel (example: roof), wiped it off, then immediately reapplied AIO again, and wiped off again. I did this to be certain that the surface was properly cleaned, and that I had not missed any spots prior to applying SG (which was done entirely by hand).



As I stated before, the results were absolutely first class.
 
esbrown1 said:
Hey Bill or anybody for that matter,



I have already applied TS on top of my SG, and I was wondering if I can wash and re-apply SG on top of TS? Thanks for advice!



Also, don't mean to jack this thread but did I read that you can apply AIO with a pc? If so what are the advantages over applying by hand? The reason I ask is because I received a phamplet w/ my AIO & SG on how to apply each product and it said that when applying AIO to rub hard, but NOT to DIG IN. Seems to me that applying with a pc would be Digging in? Thanks again



Eric
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Eric,



Not sure what TS is. In the acronyms section it stands for "Tire Swipe foam pad". Don't think you meant that. If it is a carnuba wax, then no, you cannot apply SG over top of it. SG will not bond to carnuba wax.



Yes you can apply AIO with a PC. It won't harm your paint. Using a PC is not really digging in. May I ask who supplied you with those directions?



AIO is a very mild abrasive polish and a pretty strong chemical cleaner. As dmatre said, applying with a PC will give you more uniform results. IMHO it will also allow you to maximize AIO to its fullest. AIO needs the friction and movement of the PC in order to get the most out of its cleaning and abrasive qualities. Your hand cannot replicate what a PC can do.



Search for a thread by jngrbrdman where he posts pictures of a highly oxidized red car he detailed. He used AIO with a PC + foam cutting pad to remove the oxidation. He did an incredible job. The car looked outstanding. I doubt he would have been able to get as good and even results by hand. It would probably kill most of us to a job like that by hand. Scottwax being the exception (I don't know how he does it!).
 
Thanks guys! I will give it a shot and see what happens.



I ordered it through www.topoftheline.com so I assume they placed the directions in the box. I found them useful because it also noted the several applications for AIO & SG.



TS(Trade Secret) is a carnuba so I guess I will have to strip it down first. Oh well, the trucks pretty dirty anyway.



Thanks for the tips!



Eric
 
Do I wet the foam pad when using AIO?



I will be using the yellow LC foam pad as this is considered the "cutting" pad. Thanks



Eric
 
When I did the cars, I used Griot's Fast Shine (a quick detailer) to lubricate the pad. I used one quick 'spritz' to the pad, applied one small dab of AIO to the pad, and then worked it over the surface until I had covered each area 4 times (twice up/down, twice left/right).



The info that I got from Classic Motoring Accessories also advised that a spritz on the pad made things go easier.



I shouldn't be too hard. I've found that when using a PC, it's hard to screw up. Even the worst PC jobs that I've done have looked better thant my best jobs done by hand! Just don't apply too much product.



I wiped off using only dry MF towels, although some here have recommended using 1st a damp MF, followed by a dry MF.
 
esbrown1 said:
Do I wet the foam pad when using AIO?



I will be using the yellow LC foam pad as this is considered the "cutting" pad. Thanks



Eric
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Why would you want to use a cutting pad with a product so mild like AIO? If you need to remove something from the paint use a correct polish/compound.
 
jgv said:
Why would you want to use a cutting pad with a product so mild like AIO? If you need to remove something from the paint use a correct polish/compound.
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That's the advice that was given in an earlier thread if i'm not mistaking. Let me read through them again to see if I'm clear on the AIO/pc combo.:nixweiss



jgv,



you were right, the cutting pad was used when removing oxidation. I will just use my white polish pad. Thanks!

btw, should I wet the pad since the instructions on the bottle called for a damp cloth when applying by hand?
 
Yes, you must damp the pad. In fact no matter what product you use, you should never start working the surface with a dry foam as it may scratch.
 
jgv said:
Why would you want to use a cutting pad with a product so mild like AIO? If you need to remove something from the paint use a correct polish/compound.
Click to expand...



You would use AIO with a cutting pad to maximize AIO's cleaning ability. I made a reference to jngr's thread with the red truck in order to show how good a combo AIO and a cutting pad are with respect to cleaning.



Oh well, just my philosophy.
 
You're not maximizing it's cleaning ability using a cutting pad, what you're doing is rubbing a somewhat harsh foam pad in the surface, a pad designed to be used with compounds to remove more severe damages on the paint. What happens when you use it with finishing product is that you're causing marring to the surface.



The last pad that touches my cars surfaces is always a finishing one, with products like AIO or Menzerna FP or so. I don't want the pad to 'add' nothing to the paint.
 
jgv said:
You're not maximizing it's cleaning ability using a cutting pad, what you're doing is rubbing a somewhat harsh foam pad in the surface, a pad designed to be used with compounds to remove more severe damages on the paint. What happens when you use it with finishing product is that you're causing marring to the surface.



The last pad that touches my cars surfaces is always a finishing one, with products like AIO or Menzerna FP or so. I don't want the pad to 'add' nothing to the paint.
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I see your point. And I do use AIO with a finishing pad as well. But I also have not had any problems, or 'new' marring from using it with my cutting pad.



To each their own. :xyxthumbs
 
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