WW/RW Showdown - N-914 vs Feynlab Pure Rinseless

[testing02hwr]

Usually just lurk but I made an account specifically to thank you for this comparison. Looking to switch to rinseless and was seriously considering N914 as it doesn`t leave anything behind and won`t mess with the properties of any coating/LSP I end up using. Good to know N914 is still king after all this time.

 

[acuRAS82]

Usually just lurk but I made an account specifically to thank you for this comparison. Looking to switch to rinseless and was seriously considering N914 as it doesn`t leave anything behind and won`t mess with the properties of any coating/LSP I end up using. Good to know N914 is still king after all this time.

Thank you so much for the kind words! You absolutely can’t go wrong with N-914. And hopefully this account you created will encourage any questions, no matter how simple, if you were to have any.

Enjoy!!

 

[SWETM]

Yeah no doubt that the feynlab Pure R Wash seems to be very strong. And I would be very carefull to even use it on a ceramic coating to revive it. Sure maybe not so much of an impact if used every 6 months or so when you do a decon wash. Still it took a noticeble hit on a fresh Enigma Wax ceramic wax application. The way you see when the water hits the paint and it`s a bigger flooding than the other side that fastly beads up and sheeting it off was very noticeble. Thought first since it`s ability to clinging on the paint it could have been trouble to wipe it off clearly and left a lot of residue behind. But a wash with the N-914 you did should have fixed that I think. And also that it degraded ochnob PNS and BSD also says a lot of it`s strength. As in my experience with BSD it has a great chemical resistance.

Would be very interesting to see how high ph level it has when diluted. I don`t remember exactly but it`s some range of the hydrocarbons that can degrade even coatings very much and don`t think it gets a very high ph level from that either. So it`s not certain if it`s a lower basic ph level that it`s not aggressive on the LSPs.

Good call ochnob as it`s not so easy to see when doing only WW or RW. And is noticeble first when you see the water behavior on the paint.

 

[Ochnob]

So before I returned it the other day I did a test on my wife’s hood. It’s got FK1000p. It also seemed to degrade the water behavior of that as well. To be fair the FK is about 5 months old and I need to put another coat on before winter.

I will say this. It would be one hell of a panel wipe after polishing. It does seem to clean well. And for the cost it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than most of the panel wipes out there. And they do say it can be used that way. Maybe that is the way to use it. But I am not happy with it at all as a rinsless.

 

[acuRAS82]

I will say this. It would be one hell of a panel wipe after polishing. It does seem to clean well. And for the cost it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than most of the panel wipes out there. And they do say it can be used that way. Maybe that is the way to use it. But I am not happy with it at all as a rinsless.

Agreed... and I now have an additional 31 to 62 gallons of panel wipe!!!

 

[acuRAS82]

I gotta vent for a sec. I give credit where credit is due, so I’m going to be consistent and give complaint where there is disappointment.

I didn’t track every single spot that I had used Pure Rinseless and now it’s causing me a lot of frustration. I have a spreadsheet where I track every time and spot that I apply spray waxes, LSPs, etc. For QDs and any types of washes I only record that it was used on a vehicle, nothing about area or how many times. This would be very tedious to do so as I’m constantly touching up and cleaning vehicles.

So now as I’m realizing places where beading doesn’t look as good on my own cars, it’s causing paranoia. Did I touch this area with that nuisance RW? My headlights on all vehicles got 2X coats of headlight coating two weeks ago. Beading doesn’t look as good now, I bet I at least did a single wipe there. My back windows on the Q5 and X5 were touched I recall, but the front windshield doesn’t bead as good as 2 brand new coats of PBL Glass Coating should. Did I wipe it down, or is this in my head? I’ll likely apply another coat to headlights and windshields to ease my concerns... which sucks because weather is getting colder and this winter prep work was done already a few weeks ago. Back windows will also need redone, obviously.

I had ceramic wax tests going on the roof and back panel of my X5. Those tests are void now. Definite change in beading to those areas which I know I wiped but can’t remember how many times, normal vs 2X strength.

All the above is beyond simply reapplying LSPs on all 3 cars since I consider them all “infected” by this stuff.

Ive not been in any situations like this since becoming an autopian. A simple Rinseless wash at waterless wash dilution is causing so much rework given my OCD and commitment to having a pure (pun intended) winter-ready protection on all parts of all my vehicles.

So with that, I’m very disappointed in Pure Rinseless, it’s advertising/descriptions that indicate no reason to fear using this stuff, and the lack of response to my email asking for explanation. The stuff deteriorated everything it touches and has no business being used as anything but a panel wipe.

 

[SWETM]

Man what a nightmare you have gotten with this testing with Pure Rinseless. I was reading the description of both the Feynlab Pure Rinseless and Pure Wash on the Swedish website. It where in english though so may be the same as at the Feynlab officiall website. But the description was very strange with these 2 products. In the beginning it`s a maintance product to clean up the protection and not leave anything behind both on coatings and sealants. Then it`s a prep product before you apply any protection again or on a new car even I think it was. And back to being a maintance product for only coatings this time. The car soap if used 1:100 acts like a panel prep product and for maintance 1:400. If used in a foamcannon it`s just 30ml to 1000ml/1l bottle. That`s a very weak dilution for being in a foamcannon. So definitely it`s a strong product with some serious chemicals in it. The Pure Rinseless is even recommended to use nitrile gloves and a respirator when you use it. And on that I only saw the 1:250 as the dilution to use it with. Sure maybe a ceramic coating can hold up to these. But it`s very strange description of them and seems like it should be used as a panel prep product for application or re-application of their products. That`s not clearly described though as they go back and forth in the description of the products.

Sad when these kind of things happens with the LSPs. Especially when you have just done them ready for the season ahead. It`s time consuming to do this and can also be expensive. Then for you personally that has some testing going on as well that you have put a lot of time in to. Are now comprimised with just the use of one product. And if they don`t clearly described that this will effect your protection in a degrading way if you don`t have a ceramic coating. Would be bad to be doing I think. It`s not so it`s clearly written that it`s a panel prep product only.

Hope you get an answer from Feynlab and gets some clarification of this product.

/ Tony

 

[acuRAS82]

acuRAS82 do you think it has anything to do with you using it twice as strong as recommended?

quebert, just noticed I missed this. I’ve seen noticeable degrading with both normal and 2X dilution. I’m sure 2X does a bit more damage but noticeable is noticeable.

I guess I didn’t mention but the last Acura (10/29) and X5 (10/30) tests were normal dilution.

 

[Ochnob]

So I just found out my wife has not returned this yet. I am going to do some more testing with this today. I have to put a winter layer of LSP on wife’s van this weekend. It has FK1000p on it. From my initial spot test on it the other day it is not sting enough to strip the FK. But does dramatically affect the water behavior.

My thought process is that this product might be a decent Reset wash prior to applying another layer of LSP. It certainly cleans well and could remove any traffic film prior to reapplying a LSP. I may also give it a try adding it to my wheel wash bucket to see how that does.

I will post results.

 

[quebert]

So I just found out my wife has not returned this yet. I am going to do some more testing with this today. I have to put a winter layer of LSP on wife’s van this weekend. It has FK1000p on it. From my initial spot test on it the other day it is not sting enough to strip the FK. But does dramatically affect the water behavior.

My thought process is that this product might be a decent Reset wash prior to applying another layer of LSP. It certainly cleans well and could remove any traffic film prior to reapplying a LSP. I may also give it a try adding it to my wheel wash bucket to see how that does.

I will post results.

Good info, since it`s so cheap and cleans well it could be a good option for me to use on customers car. 98% don`t have any protection, and if they do it would be from me doing it. So I`d know which cars to use it on or not use it on. I this isn`t how it works, but my logic tells if it strips sealants and waxes and possibly degrade coatings. It`s gotta be suuuuuper good at cleaning lol. And like you also said, as a panel wipe it would be CHEAP. So it sounds like it has a couple good uses for me, not enough to get a gallon, but a liter would last a good while.

 

[Ochnob]

I got a chance to use it today on my wife’s van that I planned on adding a layer of winter layer of LSP. The van wasn’t washed for a couple weeks so it was pretty dirty. I usually power wash a car before adding a layer of something on it to make sure it’s really clean. I had it already mixed from before in a sprayer. I put. A liberal amount on the panels before also using a rinseless method.
I have to say I was pretty pleased with the result. The paint was clean and fresher than it has been in a while. I think it removed whatever traffic film was on there.
It did kill the FK1000P. It did a water test after and it was just horrible for water behavior. But was still there. It didn’t strip it. Maybe at a higher concentration it could be used to strip LSP’s. But IMO it definitely cleans better than 914, ONR, and DG931. But the car was very clean.
I may actually keep this stuff. But not for a maintenance wash. Mainly for a panel wipe or a Reset type of wash prior to adding another layer of something. It’s actually pretty cost effective for that. This bottle will last me forever.
I didn`t get a chance to suit it on the rims. Ran out of time. But I will post results in the future when I try that.

 

[Ochnob]

Good info, since it`s so cheap and cleans well it could be a good option for me to use on customers car. 98% don`t have any protection, and if they do it would be from me doing it. So I`d know which cars to use it on or not use it on. I this isn`t how it works, but my logic tells if it strips sealants and waxes and possibly degrade coatings. It`s gotta be suuuuuper good at cleaning lol. And like you also said, as a panel wipe it would be CHEAP. So it sounds like it has a couple good uses for me, not enough to get a gallon, but a liter would last a good while.

I could see detailers really liking this stuff. It cleans really well. And if you are going to a customer that doesn’t have anything on the car it will clean any traffic film an leave you a really nice clean slate to correct. And in their directions they say it can be used as a panel wipe before a coating. While I haven’t used it in that specific situation I can see it working really well. It would certainly clean any polishing oils left. No doubt. It’s a unique product. But terrible marketing as a rinseless IMO. But maybe my initial failure with it can help some people find the best way to use it.

 

[quebert]

I could see detailers really liking this stuff. It cleans really well. And if you are going to a customer that doesn’t have anything on the car it will clean any traffic film an leave you a really nice clean slate to correct. And in their directions they say it can be used as a panel wipe before a coating. While I haven’t used it in that specific situation I can see it working really well. It would certainly clean any polishing oils left. No doubt. It’s a unique product. But terrible marketing as a rinseless IMO. But maybe my initial failure with it can help some people find the best way to use it.

As a panel wipe alone it`s a good buy for me. The cheaper panel wipe products are like $60+ for a gallon and I`ve never seen one that`s dilutable. Feynlab`s Panel Wipe costs $119 for 5l, Now I`d like to see one of the fellas here who owns Pure to test it again a legit PW product. I wonder how well it compares to Feynlab`s own offering. My car`s dirty and I`m out of RW, and Pure just happens to be on Amazon Prime and I could have it by Monday if I order by tomorrow. I`d do a test against the Menzerna PW stuff I have, but I don`t know the 1st thing about how to test the effective of a PW. And my car has zero anything on it at the moment anywho.

If one of you intelligent gentlemen could explain to me a proper way to test a PW, I could waste some of my PA Viking Spritz on my hood and do a head to head. My Menzerna stuff`s like 4 years old, but I`m assuming it`s still good?

 

[acuRAS82]

As a panel wipe alone it`s a good buy for me. The cheaper panel wipe products are like $60+ for a gallon and I`ve never seen one that`s dilutable. Feynlab`s Panel Wipe costs $119 for 5l, Now I`d like to see one of the fellas here who owns Pure to test it again a legit PW product. I wonder how well it compares to Feynlab`s own offering. My car`s dirty and I`m out of RW, and Pure just happens to be on Amazon Prime and I could have it by Monday if I order by tomorrow. I`d do a test against the Menzerna PW stuff I have, but I don`t know the 1st thing about how to test the effective of a PW. And my car has zero anything on it at the moment anywho.

If one of you intelligent gentlemen could explain to me a proper way to test a PW, I could waste some of my PA Viking Spritz on my hood and do a head to head. My Menzerna stuff`s like 4 years old, but I`m assuming it`s still good?

I’ll wait to see if any advice comes in for how to best test panel wipes. I have Wolfgang Prep Spray to compare to. My wife’s car has a near-dead WG Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant (thanks to Pure R!) and will be headed to the shop for spot correction next week. I have plans of a Polish and winter LSP after that. I can do a coating light or PBL Coating when it gets out (excluding lowest front/back re-painted panels) for testing purposes if there’s an effective test to do so.

 

[Ochnob]

I’ll wait to see if any advice comes in for how to best test panel wipes. I have Wolfgang Prep Spray to compare to. My wife’s car has a near-dead WG Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant (thanks to Pure R!) and will be headed to the shop for spot correction next week. I have plans of a Polish and winter LSP after that. I can do a coating light or PBL Coating when it gets out (excluding lowest front/back re-painted panels) for testing purposes if there’s an effective test to do so.

LOL. You and I started this journey just looking for a new rinseless and it turned into correction/ re-LSP project. Oh well, such is my journey in the weekend warrior detailing world.

So I’m sure you have seen the torture tests people have done on Sonax BSD. That stuff can can handle all kind of acidic stuff thrown at it. After the first wash it affected my Sonax PNS so I applied BSD and waited 24 hrs to make sure it bonded well for a second test. But at normal dilution it greatly diminished BSD. I used Pure R on drivers side and 914 on passenger side.
Full view:

914 side:

Pure R side:

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[Ochnob]

Man what a nightmare you have gotten with this testing with Pure Rinseless. I was reading the description of both the Feynlab Pure Rinseless and Pure Wash on the Swedish website. It where in english though so may be the same as at the Feynlab officiall website. But the description was very strange with these 2 products. In the beginning it`s a maintance product to clean up the protection and not leave anything behind both on coatings and sealants. Then it`s a prep product before you apply any protection again or on a new car even I think it was. And back to being a maintance product for only coatings this time. The car soap if used 1:100 acts like a panel prep product and for maintance 1:400. If used in a foamcannon it`s just 30ml to 1000ml/1l bottle. That`s a very weak dilution for being in a foamcannon. So definitely it`s a strong product with some serious chemicals in it. The Pure Rinseless is even recommended to use nitrile gloves and a respirator when you use it. And on that I only saw the 1:250 as the dilution to use it with. Sure maybe a ceramic coating can hold up to these. But it`s very strange description of them and seems like it should be used as a panel prep product for application or re-application of their products. That`s not clearly described though as they go back and forth in the description of the products.

Sad when these kind of things happens with the LSPs. Especially when you have just done them ready for the season ahead. It`s time consuming to do this and can also be expensive. Then for you personally that has some testing going on as well that you have put a lot of time in to. Are now comprimised with just the use of one product. And if they don`t clearly described that this will effect your protection in a degrading way if you don`t have a ceramic coating. Would be bad to be doing I think. It`s not so it`s clearly written that it`s a panel prep product only.

Hope you get an answer from Feynlab and gets some clarification of this product.

/ Tony

Agreed. I never in a million years considered a rinseless changing a LSP before I tried this Pure R.

I think there are either terrible marketing departments or there are things lost in translations between languages many times in this detail world.

I love Sonax products but find their marketing descriptions funny sometimes. Take Duragloss for instance. Their poor marketing department is still stuck in the 70’s. I love their products. I can’t figure out what their descriptions mean and I’m close enough that I have stopped by their HQ sometimes. I have gone full circle from coatings back to DG and FK1000P with some Sonax sprinkled in. But I’m sure the translation of Duragloss descriptions into other languages has to be amusing.

To prove that point here is the Duragloss HQ store set up. They are truly old school. It’s just a display case in the lobby.

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[Coatings=crack]

Has anyone tried this on a coated vehicle yet? Maybe it’s made to clean down to the coating when a considerable amount of grime is interfering with the coating?


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[DetailZeus]

I struggle to believe that this stuff is stripping sealants. I have a hunch it`s just very substantive and wets the surface well. Since we`re not rinsing it`s going to leave hydrophilic properties behind. I`ve been looking for a wash product like this since D114 seemed like the only rinseless that didn`t bead on the surface when you washed (never actually got to try it). However I think it`s false marketing to say it leaves nothing behind when it looks like it definitely leaves some sort of film. Could be wrong though!

 

[rlmccarty2000]

I’m jumping in here late with a question or two. What does the paint feel like after using the Feynlab stuff? If it is killing FK1000p I would wonder if it was that good for my paint. Could it be leaving a film/masking over the LSP similar to a Dawn wash? There has been test after test on these forums looking for something that removes an LSP (fresh) and nothing other than polishing was found to really remove an LSP.

Try a Reset wash after the Feynlab to see if you can revive the beading. I may be totally off base but it can’t hurt to try.

 

[DetailZeus]

I’m jumping in here late with a question or two. What does the paint feel like after using the Feynlab stuff? If it is killing FK1000p I would wonder if it was that good for my paint. Could it be leaving a film/masking over the LSP similar to a Dawn wash? There has been test after test on these forums looking for something that removes an LSP (fresh) and nothing other than polishing was found to really remove an LSP.

Try a Reset wash after the Feynlab to see if you can revive the beading. I may be totally off base but it can’t hurt to try.

That’s what I’m saying. If this stuff is stripping FK, then it has to be destroying your hands. Are there warning labels on the bottle like you’d get with Klean-Strip? If it leaves a film on oily sealants maybe an ipa wipe will bring them back. Curious.