Paint overspray removal is a specialized field

Ron Ketcham said:
The "wax" provides lubrication for the blade.

The "blade" must be slightly "dulled" before it is used.

This method is very old school and one of the biggest companies in the world that performs overspray and IFO removal for the insurance companies, etc is Detail Masters out of San Antonio, Tx.

They stopped using the method over 20 years ago, once clay came about.

The system they use for IFO/Ferrous metal removal is the ValuGard ABC system.

I know of several situations in the past years where they would be doing 1,000 to 2,000 cars at one job for insurance companies.

And, they go all over the world to do their work, plus they do PDR hail damage repairs for them as well.

While there are tons of "specialists" that do some work, none are as big or old a company as them.

Grumpy



Hey Ron,



Any idea what they use on rubber and plastic textured moldings when the ABC system doesn't work? That's the one area I think we have the most trouble with.
 
Nope, as Mazda found out, a few years back.

I think their TSB on what to do is still on ValuGard's website.

Big overspray in Edison, NJ, where Ford Rangers and B-2000 Mazda's were assembled.

If I recall about 400 Mazda trucks were affected. They were in a storage lot next to some oil storage tanks about a mile from the plant where they used an expoxy paint to refinish the oil tanks.

They had Detail Masters in and were able to safely remove the overspray from the paint, glass and chrome, but all the black exterior trim, mirrors, etc were done with the ValuGard ETR.

Mazda tracked those vehicles for 3 years to see if there were any warranty claims for failure of the treated parts, NOT ONE WAS REPORTED!

Like Hyundia discovered on a similar concern, the ETR, applied correctly, outlasts a new OEM part, and they only did it to somewhere of about 40,000 vehicles.

Takes anywhere from 15 minutes to a half an hour to do a vehicle once one learns the process.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Nope, as Mazda found out, a few years back.

I think their TSB on what to do is still on ValuGard's website.

Big overspray in Edison, NJ, where Ford Rangers and B-2000 Mazda's were assembled.

If I recall about 400 Mazda trucks were affected. They were in a storage lot next to some oil storage tanks about a mile from the plant where they used an expoxy paint to refinish the oil tanks.

They had Detail Masters in and were able to safely remove the overspray from the paint, glass and chrome, but all the black exterior trim, mirrors, etc were done with the ValuGard ETR.

Mazda tracked those vehicles for 3 years to see if there were any warranty claims for failure of the treated parts, NOT ONE WAS REPORTED!

Like Hyundia discovered on a similar concern, the ETR, applied correctly, outlasts a new OEM part, and they only did it to somewhere of about 40,000 vehicles.

Takes anywhere from 15 minutes to a half an hour to do a vehicle once one learns the process.

Grumpy





Right on. ;)





I honestly have no desire to work on over spray jobs again but I do get calls once or twice a year and it would be nice to know what to suggest for them. :bigups
 
Ron Ketcham said:
The "wax" provides lubrication for the blade.

The "blade" must be slightly "dulled" before it is used.

This method is very old school and one of the biggest companies in the world that performs overspray and IFO removal for the insurance companies, etc is Detail Masters out of San Antonio, Tx.

They stopped using the method over 20 years ago, once clay came about.

The system they use for IFO/Ferrous metal removal is the ValuGard ABC system.

I know of several situations in the past years where they would be doing 1,000 to 2,000 cars at one job for insurance companies.

And, they go all over the world to do their work, plus they do PDR hail damage repairs for them as well.

While there are tons of "specialists" that do some work, none are as big or old a company as them.

Grumpy



This is spot on. The problem arises in that the wax tend to only lubricate so far as it sat mostly on the defects(with heavily damaged vehicles). The slightest "chattering" would damage the underlying good layer. This was a wax remove wax remove time consuming process. Many times a surfboard (or type of) wax was used due to its consistency.



It was also used in touch up to remove once dried blobs before final touch and polish.



I don't know it all but was taught by some of the veterans. No offense old schoolers.
 
And, John, the process is not always able to remove "two part expoy" paint overspray.

That is due to the "activity" of the solvent system required to spray it.

If the vehicle is far enough away from the source of such overspray, enough of the very active solvents have evaporated and do not "eat/melt into the paint surface", allowing the use of clay or the blade to remove the deposits.

At one time, Floyd and I developed a "special solvent system" that would "release" the deposits from the clear. The clear was, at the time, a BASF clear used on Crown Vic's for the California Highway Patrol, which were in storage close to a spray event in Benica, Ca.

The "special solvent system" was tested and approved by BASF at the time, it was a Finish Kare product, but not then or now, available to general purchase.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
And, John, the process is not always able to remove "two part expoy" paint overspray.

That is due to the "activity" of the solvent system required to spray it.

If the vehicle is far enough away from the source of such overspray, enough of the very active solvents have evaporated and do not "eat/melt into the paint surface", allowing the use of clay or the blade to remove the deposits.

At one time, Floyd and I developed a "special solvent system" that would "release" the deposits from the clear. The clear was, at the time, a BASF clear used on Crown Vic's for the California Highway Patrol, which were in storage close to a spray event in Benica, Ca.

The "special solvent system" was tested and approved by BASF at the time, it was a Finish Kare product, but not then or now, available to general purchase.

Grumpy



Understood. It is the same as clear "burn in" overspray on softer or newer finishes. It will only shave a portion as the rest resides in a "nest".
 
rasky if you were not the one that link my video, then I am sorry for saying that you did. But you did make some real negative comments at my expense. I know everyone at detail masters. Call them if you like, and they will tell you that I just repaired 300 vehicles for Joe Holland Chevy. They know this first hand because they tried to get the same job and could not. The insurer called them to the job for a car count. I did a demonstration of my process and got the job over them. Back in 1990 we were on the same overspray project of 1500 vehicles at a port. They did just over 1000 vehicles with the help of 20 of their best guys they said. I did 450 by myself in the same time period. I also went back to the job two weeks later after they left and did 250 plus vehicles that they damaged. You can call them and just mention my name and they will tell you the same thing. I bladed vehicles and used machinery to restore the paint finish. They used solvents and compounds. I know that i do things different then most, but the end results are what counts. I was stupid to ever post on any of these forms. Its very late when I get home and am tired, so I misspell words and feed into all this negative posting. I am going to Dubai and repair 100 high end vehicles, and will show you guys in great detail from start to finish of how I blade a vehicle. I will make sure the vehicle that i repair is black and over 100,000 in value. Not to mention the people over there are not like us, they have a lot of respect for me and what I can do for them. They have agreed to let me film my repairs this time. I will not post on this form or others past tonight. Just end all these threads and you guys will never here from me again.
 
Before clay and other recent technologies, razor blades, solvents, and compounds were in fact the way me and a lot of guys in the auto collision industry learned overspray removal. And that was back in the 70s- 80s. Very ole skool tech. Of course, thanks to new tech, there really isnt a practical reason to go back unless there is no other alternative; Its simply another option to accomplish a goal.
 
Jeff Suggs said:
rasky if you were not the one that link my video, then I am sorry for saying that you did. But you did make some real negative comments at my expense.



I definitely didn't start any threads linking videos, but I did make comments that I shouldn't have, and I changed them later when I realized it was very unprofessional of me. While we may not see eye to eye on polishing technique, there is still a huge market of clientele for your type of services which is what made me change my comment. I've since tried to move on from all of this and hadn't plan to comment at all until I saw my name being called out incorrectly. Hopefully you can accept my apology for the comments I made and let this be.
 
Well damn now I feel bad for Jeff and he does have a point, if what he did was that bad, he wouldn't find work anywhere in the world, but he apparently does. So, let's let it be and move on from this thread.
 
RZJZA80 said:
Well damn now I feel bad for Jeff and he does have a point, if what he did was that bad, he wouldn't find work anywhere in the world, but he apparently does. So, let's let it be and move on from this thread.



I don't feel bad. Know who usually gets all the work? Low bidder. He talks like he is the master uses techniques that we know will cause terrible buffer trails, uses products that are excellent fillers and he will not post a post IPA/Solvent wipedown picture of a car. He may get paint off of cars, but what's left afterwards?
 
Dan said:
I don't feel bad. Know who usually gets all the work? Low bidder. He talks like he is the master uses techniques that we know will cause terrible buffer trails, uses products that are excellent fillers and he will not post a post IPA/Solvent wipedown picture of a car. He may get paint off of cars, but what's left afterwards?



Well while what do you're saying is probably true, how is the guy still getting work? I mean, fillers eventually fade, so how's he still around doing the same thing? That's what I don't understand.
 
Jeff, you like making long replies, but the people who make the most sense in their posts get ignored by you. Your videos never show a full sun shot, and videos never show full defects, you need to take direct sun shots with a still camera.



This is one of my only videos showing differences. This type of video is what we would expect from you, but you fail to show it. And this isnt even my best work. This customer was only willing to go with a 2 step polish.




And judging by your videos, i can bet several of your cars show speckling from polish splatter as i have never seen any of your trims taped up.
 
RZJZA80 said:
Well damn now I feel bad for Jeff and he does have a point, if what he did was that bad, he wouldn't find work anywhere in the world, but he apparently does. So, let's let it be and move on from this thread.



RZJZA80 said:
Well while what do you're saying is probably true, how is the guy still getting work? I mean, fillers eventually fade, so how's he still around doing the same thing? That's what I don't understand.



The exact same way people still go to dealerships to get their cars done. The same people who go to $59.99 Jeff Puggs Detailing Service. Jeff gets a lot of work because there are hundreds of millions of cars in the world. Along with millions and millions and millions worth of moronic owners who do not know the difference between a Jeff Sudds Hack Detailing and most of the professional correct high end detailers on this forum.
 
RZJZA80 said:
Well while what do you're saying is probably true, how is the guy still getting work? I mean, fillers eventually fade, so how's he still around doing the same thing? That's what I don't understand.



Easy, afterwards people think themselves caused the swirls with bad wash and drying techniques.



Also, not always the best makes money, think of Bose and Beat Audio. Marketing wins many times, maybe that is why he wants negative posts removed.
 
Wheelzntoys said:
Easy, afterwards people think themselves caused the swirls with bad wash and drying techniques.



Yep. I just corrected a 2013 black Audi A4 that the dealership hacked. The owner washed it one time a week after driving off the lot and uncovered the mess. Fortunately he came to see me before going back to the dealership where he was told he caused those swirls through his washing method. They wanted to have their detailers try to fix it. I sent him well prepared and they agreed to cover half the cost. Had he not come to me first they might have convinced him that he caused it, especially if they filled it in again and he didn't see the holograms until he washed it again.
 
This is the worst thread I have ever seen on this site. I came in here hoping to learn something about paint over spray and all I learned was this guy is on YouTube. :fail:
 
I haven't read every page or every post on this thread, just the first few pages. Someone fill me in, is Jeff a troll? Is this serious, real life? This guy is saying that a razor blade doesn't scratch paint, and that he doesn't abrade the paint AT ALL when polishing out those scratches? The things he says about his method make NO LOGICAL SENSE! How is it that my finger when applied with barely any pressure to the clear coat on my friends 2011 outback will mar his paint but a razor will not? How can he take a wool pad at that high of speed to the plastic door handle on the red Ford truck and not damage it at all? How can you possibly use a rotary at that high of rpm at THAT ANGLE and create no swirl marks? Sorry if I'm late on this one, but I'm just confused on whether he is real or if this is an Autopian mocking the typical hack and buff.
 
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