LSP Guidance Question - Or: Does FK1000 have a downside?

[Accumulator]

By the way, "Ketch" Accumulator is referring to is Frank Ketchum (AKA, "Grumpy")..

Close...*very* close! It`s Ron Ketcham. Heh heh, if I misspelled his last name he`ll probably see this thread and email me an admonishment! He moved from FK to AI and recently retired. Gee, was it that long ago?!? Yes indeed, he had, uhm...insights...not available to just anybody and not just in the Domestic Auto Industry but worldwide.

Accumulator:
Not to hi-jack this thread on FK1000P (OK, Captain Obvious, you are), but refresh my memory: What are your compounds and polishes of choice to "replace/supplant" Meg`s M105/M205? Yes, I am in the same boat as you:

Yeah, we`re in the same boat and on the same page with those Compound/Polish concerns! Find it odd that others don`t experience some of the same issues, but OK, whatever...

I`m using M101 instead of M105 but haven`t had to do a whole panel with such stuff in years. I`m leaning towards GG Fast Correcting Creme if/when I buy another compound.

I`m 100% satisfied with 3D (or is it "HD"?!? Got a mental block differentiating ) Polish but hear they`ve "updated" it. Might go GG Perfecting Creme.

Gee, I sound sold on the GG stuff that I`ve never tried, huh?!?

I use M205 on chrome myself and seldom do much follow up.

 

[Accumulator]

finick- Oh man, you too?!? You guys are gonna get me buying those GG products yet if I`m not resolute about using up what I have!

 

[finick]

finick- Oh man, you too?!? You guys are gonna get me buying those GG products yet if I`m not resolute about using up what I have!

Absolutely, The BOSS creams are spectacular. I`m fairly certain that I could stop the "search" for a compound/polish I`m happy with after trying this line. It`s worth noting that I just use a standard 8mm throw polisher, and Meguiars pads. Whether it be the burgundy disc or the microfiber disc, FCC is wonderful. PC on the yellow polishing disc/black finishing disc is a dream to use.

I`ve also used 3D HD Polish+, and it`s right up there with PC. If someone made me pick just one, it would be a hard choice. I think the only reasons I would pick PC would be small things like smell, and pad staining. Polish+ doesn`t smell bad, but I prefer the smell of PC (no accounting for taste, of course. as you would say; YMMV.) Polish+ also does stain pads, which isn`t a huge deal to me, but if there`s a product that`s equally nice to use that doesn`t do that, I`m more inclined to pick that one.

 

[Accumulator]

Working my way through the recent posts on this thread....

Finick- Ah, OK...interesting!

Your application in the first pic is *MUCH* thicker than I do, but...NOW FORGET THAT I POSTED THAT! IMO you gotta do what you gotta do to avoid the smearing so do whatever works, which might be quite different from what works best for me.

YES on the "glide across the paint". Somehow I get that with a minimum or product, but again...NOW FORGET...[etc].

FWIW, I do reload the applicator numerous times per panel. Even small panels. Like...all the time. But... NOW FORGET...

I`ll often do pretty much the whole vehicle (and I`m often doing big ones) before I buff off, but for the upteenth time, that`s just me so NOW...

It sounds like you oughta just use whatever QD works so well and do it that way. I`d fully expect FK425 to do it for you, but I`d hate to steer you off in another direction that might not work out as well as what you`ve already found to work.

I`m just glad you did find a solution!

 

[finick]

Your application in the first pic is *MUCH* thicker than I do, but...NOW FORGET THAT I POSTED THAT! IMO you gotta do what you gotta do to avoid the smearing so do whatever works, which might be quite different from what works best for me.

It was definitely thicker than I normally apply, having the pad moist with QD made loading it up a lot easier than when I load up a dry pad, so I was kind of caught off guard lol, but it was very smooth applying it.

YES on the "glide across the paint". Somehow I get that with a minimum or product, but again...NOW FORGET...[etc].

FWIW, I do reload the applicator numerous times per panel. Even small panels. Like...all the time. But... NOW FORGET...

I`ll often do pretty much the whole vehicle (and I`m often doing big ones) before I buff off, but for the upteenth time, that`s just me so NOW...

I`m planning on messing around some more with it. I just did the hood, so I`m probably going to do a couple other panels and reload the applicator to get that buttery smooth application and let it set up after applying it that way to see if I can get away with doing a whole car that way. it`s funny.. Even after doing my entire car 3 times, the hood on that mini (blue hood), and my gfs hoood (it`s silver so I didn`t take pictures, couldn`t get anything to show up), it still looks like I haven`t used any of the tin.. So maybe if I do end up applying thicker than I otherwise have been trying to, the tin will last me a few less years

It sounds like you oughta just use whatever QD works so well and do it that way. I`d fully expect FK425 to do it for you, but I`d hate to steer you off in another direction that might not work out as well as what you`ve already found to work.

I`m just glad you did find a solution!

I`d imagine FK425 would work equally as well, this stuff honestly seemed like bottom barrel QD spray. My work buddy just approached me on break and said he`d brought it to give me since he didn`t use it.. I don`t normally have dedicated QD sprays on hand, so it was hard to turn it down! It couldn`t have been more than 40-50oz left in the gallon he gave me, and I`ve been on this last 16oz bottle of it for man... Two years?

 

[Accumulator]

finick- Thanks for elaborating on the Perfecting Creme vs. Polish+.

And yeah, as aggressive foam pads go, I too like the Meguiar`s Burgundy ones (really liked the older version).

Just be careful you don`t get so much FK1000P on there that you end up with the pseudo-holograms. Those are awfully close the "smearing" and you don`t need another virtually identical headache!

And yeah...It`s gonna take me another decade easily to make a dent in my stupid-large supply of QDs

 

[SWETM]

Great that you did get some good experience with the application of fk1000p. I would have gotten tired of make it work and look at another LSP. But it could be worth to get it work since it seems to be a great LSP.

Those synthetic waxes do they really need to set up and pass the finger swipe test. How is the direction for the dwell time with fk1000p? Is there a big difference to let it sit for a long time vs to wipe it off after 5-10min?

 

[finick]

Great that you did get some good experience with the application of fk1000p. I would have gotten tired of make it work and look at another LSP. But it could be worth to get it work since it seems to be a great LSP.

Those synthetic waxes do they really need to set up and pass the finger swipe test. How is the direction for the dwell time with fk1000p? Is there a big difference to let it sit for a long time vs to wipe it off after 5-10min?

I was pretty bummed I didn’t have a nice experience at first, but I guess the fact I have spray sealant I was already mostly pleased with helps make me willing to play with FK1000P.

It’s also such a good value for the money it costs, I can’t help but want to find a way to make it work.

The directions state to let it dry, but nothing specific. I’ve also haven’t had this particular product pass the swipe test, no matter how thin I’ve applied it.

The right half of the hood buffed off very cleanly after 5 minutes or so. It didn’t take me that long to apply to the hood, I just closed up the tin, took the picture of the hood, and then went to wipe off.

The left side sat for 25 minutes or so, and actually gave me a lot more trouble during the wipe off, as you can see in the pictures.

Was it because it sat longer? It’s impossible to say for sure. The right side applied much more smoothly, for whatever that’s worth. Maybe the right side would’ve buffed off cleanly still after the same time... it’s hard to say.

I’m gonna try on some more panels and see what happens.


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[Lonnie]

By the way, "Ketch" Accumulator is referring to is Frank Ketchum (AKA, "Grumpy")..

Close...*very* close! It`s Ron Ketcham. Heh heh, if I misspelled his last name he`ll probably see this thread and email me an admonishment! He moved from FK to AI and recently retired. Gee, was it that long ago?!? Yes indeed, he had, uhm...insights...not available to just anybody and not just in the Domestic Auto Industry but worldwide..

Thanks for the correction , Accumulator on both accounts: his first name AND spelling of last name for "Grumpy". I miss his posts in this forum.
Now that I think of it , the incorrect name and spelling is actually a person I worked with MANY years ago in engineering.

 

[Accumulator]

Those synthetic waxes do they really need to set up and pass the finger swipe test. How is the direction for the dwell time with fk1000p? Is there a big difference to let it sit for a long time vs to wipe it off after 5-10min?

Man I wish I had decent answers to such Qs! I`m feeling kinda bummed that I don`t...gee, I`m always raving about the stuff and I`ve used it plenty and and and I just don`t know because I never had to "master" this particular product (probably wouldn`t have bothered).

I mean...gee, my first experiences with it were with a tiny sample tin that had dried out so badly that it was a ROCK, had to carve out a trough and fill that with FK425 to be able to use it. And even then it was nasty-crumbly. And even then it worked fine, easy as could be..well, for a dried out chunk of wax.

WT[flip]..?!? Maybe, just maybe...finick got a bad tin of it.

The directions state to let it dry, but nothing specific. I’ve also haven’t had this particular product pass the swipe test, no matter how thin I’ve applied it.

OK, that`s just WRONG. I`d call FK and ask `em about it. I genuinely think you might have a bad tin and I hardly *EVER* jump to that conclusion.

It oughta dry and pass the finger-swipe test unless you`re using it under some really wild conditions.

Now that I think of it , the incorrect name and spelling [of Ketch`s] is actually a person I worked with MANY years ago in engineering.

Heh heh, that guy must`ve made an impression!

Yeah, I miss his posts too, even if he and I sure disagreed enough!

Man, I`ve gotta reach out to him sometime Still haven`t read all of the internal TSB on Ford paint even.

As a guy with vehicles he *KNEW* from (regarding their manufacture) it was great having his insider take. Kinda made me a bit cynical about some things, and *really* makes me about so much that so many believe...but I`d rather *know* even if it`s not what I want to hear.

 

[finick]

OK, that`s just WRONG. I`d call FK and ask `em about it. I genuinely think you might have a bad tin and I hardly *EVER* jump to that conclusion.

It oughta dry and pass the finger-swipe test unless you`re using it under some really wild conditions.

I don’t even remember seeing this reply, lol. I must’ve looked at it when I was half asleep or something.

Cant be upset you don’t know how to troubleshoot problems you’ve never dealt with!

I’ll definitely call them up tomorrow and see what they have to say. If anything I’ll ask if doing a few panels and going back to wipe off would have a significant impact, or if they also think my tin is messed up.

Conditions I’m applying in I wouldn’t say are wild by any means. Applying in a garage, granted it’s not climate controlled or anything so it does get warm in the summer.

Can’t recall a time it was sweltering when I applied though, 65-80 range for sure.

Even when I let an application setup overnight, it still didn’t pass the swipe test.

For what it’s worth, the water beading on my gfs car is much better than it was on my hood any of the applications I did. So it definitely seems like me applying it and wiping it off sooner left something more substantial behind on her hood.

My beads were very irregular, so perhaps the small glimpse I saw where it lasted a couple months wasn’t even it’s full potential . It’s also very odd that water beads up but doesn’t fly off my hood when I’m driving lol, never seen anything like that before.

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[SWETM]

This is a big maybe but have heard about some having problem with fk1000p that it don`t pass the swipe test even if it`s lets sitting for a long time. So maybe it has problem with some tins?

I have not used much of hard or paste waxes. And is interesting to have in the arsenal if I got a vehical to apply it to.

Waxes that I have now which I have only used one so far LOL.

Krystal Kleen Detail - Seduction is a carnuaba wax
Bilt Hamber - Auto-Balm is synthetic paste wax with corrosion inhibitors in it.
Chemical Guys - Butter Wet Wax liquid wax
Then it`s QD and spray waxes
Seduction is going to be used on special accation.

The fk1000p or Collinite 915 is on my list to gather at some point.

 

[Accumulator]

Yeah, sounds more and more likely *to me* that it`s a bad tin of FK1000P. Those descriptions just don`t match up with my experiences with this product at all.

My old Phone Number for FK is (626) 443-8983.

A wax oughta dry to the point that it`ll pass the finger-swipe test. Any wax I`ve ever used would do that. FK1000P will normally *DRY* until it`s *dry*, period.

I hardly ever blame a "bad batch of product", but I do think it applies this time. Hey, I had a bad gallon of M205 and there were bad batches of Meguiar`s QID; it happens now and then.

 

[finick]

Posed this in another thread, gonna post it here too just to keep all the information consolidated:

I did call Finish Kare today.. a few hours ago. Spoke with a nice woman who had never heard of a problem like mine (the smearing/streaks that line up with my last pass of my applicator OR the product simply not drying, ever) and she took my info and said someone would call me about it. Been a few hours, so I may call back.

I made it clear I mostly just want information I can pass along to the forums so anyone searching about application/removal issues may be able to come across a post with official recommendations about what to do. Maybe it is a bad tin, we’ll see!

From what I’ve seen.. most people that encounter issues give up on the product. Being the frugal (some say cheap) person that I am, I feel like product is too good of a value to give up on just yet!


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[Oneheadlite]

... Being the frugal (some say cheap) person that I am, ...

I prefer thrifty. Cheap sounds so... cheap.

Just wanted to thank you for keeping this thread going and keeping us all updated. Any tips and tricks are always appreciated. Still haven`t found free time to get out in the garage and start after it. :mellow:

Are there weather conditions that FK doesn`t respond well to? Now we`re getting towards summer so the temp and humidity will be on the rise. Neither my garage or the shop at work are climate controlled.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Yeah, sounds more and more likely *to me* that it`s a bad tin of FK1000P. Those descriptions just don`t match up with my experiences with this product at all.

My old Phone Number for FK is (626) 443-8983.

A wax oughta dry to the point that it`ll pass the finger-swipe test. Any wax I`ve ever used would do that. FK1000P will normally *DRY* until it`s *dry*, period.

I hardly ever blame a "bad batch of product", but I do think it applies this time. Hey, I had a bad gallon of M205 and there were bad batches of Meguiar`s QID; it happens now and then.

Also bad batches of Reload and I got a bad gallon of Wolfgang glass polish. Bad batches may happen more often than we think.

 

[Accumulator]

Also bad batches of Reload and I got a bad gallon of Wolfgang glass polish. Bad batches may happen more often than we think.

Doesn`t happen all that often with the stuff I`m using now, but yeah... sometimes I`m confident that it`s not me and I`m, uhm...not shy...about bringing questionable stuff to the vendor/manufacturer`s attention

 

[EdLancer]

Just tried FK1000P for the first time on my car today, applied two coats and it went on and removed much more easily compared to 476S. I left the tin inside the car so it would soften up some more with the summer heat. They say it can leave white residue on trims, but I have not experienced that yet as I was careful trying not to get it on the trims. As for the look it does not look as warm as 845IW, but that might change after a wash or two. I fashioned chiseled Popsicle stick to lift open the lid as it does not have a notch like other product tins so it would not scratch the paint as I like to applying the LSP on each panel after polishing because I don`t want dust to settle on the panel when working outside.

 

[Accumulator]

EdLancer- Ah, thanks for posting about your first go with this stuff!

Yeah, different look from 845 (and 476S too ) and yeah, best to keep it off trim unless you`re feeling lucky.

Speaking of lucky, you didn`t have any problems with pseudo-holograms from doing two coats back-to-back?

And I hear you on the can, I said "[screw] it" and [messed] mine up with a screwdriver

Don`t leave a foam applicator in the can for too long

 

[Fishroes]

Paint can opener works good