Leather Fatliquoring – A Point of Contention!

judyb said:
Using a good quality leather protector will eliminate dye transfer altogether.
Click to expand...



I've been using Leather Master Protection Cream for years and still ran into a dye transfer problem. :( I guess eventually I'll be looking into a better line of products. I just took a look at Judy's
 
How often were you applying the protector? Surface protectors need to be applied very regularly on pale colours and then cleaned with a maintenance cleaner (not a detergent cleaner) to remove surface dirt and dye.



I saw some independent tests the other day that had been done by a leading supplier of protection products (fabric and leather) and LM was not performing as well as it used to. LM products have been used as the benchmark for a long time but there are more effective ones.



Look out for our new protection system using the 3 year protector.



Cheers

Judyb
 
I'm pretty meticulous about my stuff that needs regular reapplying, stuff like dressings and leather protectant, so I'd say I have always been protecting the leather monthly.



Interesting to hear about the current situation with LM. I'll keep my eyes open towards any product that protects better and is better at preventing dye transfer.
 
The LTT Auto Ultra Protect has been formulated from the start to out perform LM Protector (we used to work for LM so have always used their products as a benchmark).



The new protectors use a different technology and have in testing all over Europe shown to stop it from happening over a 3 year period - of course the leather needs to be regularly cleaned but with a maintenance product rather than a detergent cleaner.



Hope this helps

Cheers

Judyb
 
Always interesting to learn about better products, especially those from Europe, as I will be using it on my Audi. I'll be staying tuned too!
 
Read through this entire thread - so much fantastic info! I'll be watching this one like a hawk.



So with regards to protection of leather and maintenance cleaning: What's the winning strategy for preventing the absorption of oils and dirt in a leather steering wheel? I've found that no matter how much I clean a leather wheel, the oils and dirt are absorbed and constant friction smooths the surface, wearing down the matte finish and really changing the way the wheel feels. Is it totally impossible to maintain that grainy finish brand-new? Are steering wheels typically coated in the same types of top layers as seating?



Judging from what I know and what I've read on this forum about polishing paint, it seems like this may be the same effect: Constant friction lubricated by oils and dirt on the hands is "polishing" the top protective coating, giving the wheel's leather a slick, shiny surface and hampering the grainy finish from the factory that assists in grip.
 
You could try wearing driving gloves to minimize the oil transfer and then clean with sightly damp mf from time to time.



This is my 'no product' approach :).
 
Dr. Woo said:
Read through this entire thread - so much fantastic info! I'll be watching this one like a hawk.



So with regards to protection of leather and maintenance cleaning: What's the winning strategy for preventing the absorption of oils and dirt in a leather steering wheel? I've found that no matter how much I clean a leather wheel, the oils and dirt are absorbed and constant friction smooths the surface, wearing down the matte finish and really changing the way the wheel feels. Is it totally impossible to maintain that grainy finish brand-new? Are steering wheels typically coated in the same types of top layers as seating?



Judging from what I know and what I've read on this forum about polishing paint, it seems like this may be the same effect: Constant friction lubricated by oils and dirt on the hands is "polishing" the top protective coating, giving the wheel's leather a slick, shiny surface and hampering the grainy finish from the factory that assists in grip.
Click to expand...



That's kind of they way I look at it too. I just turned 50k on my car and while I maintain it very well, the leather wheel is not quite what it was new, though it still looks good. It's also far better than most I see which don't see regular care. My wife bought her car used with 34k on it and the steering wheel was smooth and there was no texture left in the top of the wheel. A lot of variables though...I'm confident women drivers will tend to see more wear with all the make-up and lotions they use too.
 
Dr. Woo said:
So with regards to protection of leather and maintenance cleaning: What's the winning strategy for preventing the absorption of oils and dirt in a leather steering wheel?
Click to expand...



Maybe the "grabby feel" protectant from Leather Doctor would work for this.
 
Re: Fatliquoring (Follow up)



[email protected]>



To:"Jon Miller" <[email protected]>

Hi Jon,



Sorry, I forgot about this. I did speak with an oil manufacturer in the States and they confirmed that finished leather cannot be effectively treated without the chemical reaction of the tanning process or the mechanical action of the hides inside the tanning vessel.



Thanks and regards,

Steven Gilberg (ALCA)
 
TOGWT said:
Re: Fatliquoring (Follow up)



[email protected]>



To:"Jon Miller" <[email protected]>

Hi Jon,



Sorry, I forgot about this. I did speak with an oil manufacturer in the States and they confirmed that finished leather cannot be effectively treated without the chemical reaction of the tanning process or the mechanical action of the hides inside the tanning vessel.



Thanks and regards,

Steven Gilberg (ALCA)
Click to expand...





I agree to the above – that’s the tanning vessel immersion method, only design for “unfinished” leathers – not possible to be done on fabricated auto seat.



A typical fatliquoring process is done in the tanning vessel with heat averaging 125 degrees F.



The heat and mechanical action alone would cause some concern to the finish even to pre-fabricated finished leathers.



All along I am talking about the leather-safe non-immersion methodology of fatliquoring upholstered finished leather.



A cold fatliquor in a bottle; put it in the fridge and it still looks like fresh milk the next day.



Fatliquor in a bottle is the breakthrough of the 21st Century, most people are unaware off; and so the discussion so far goes off tangent.



The proof of the pudding…in this case, is simply just doing it.



Dried, stiffed and cracked finished auto leathers – if it can be hydrated – it can be fatliquor replenished to as soft as you wish!



Like to see how simple it’s been done?



Roger Koh

[email protected]
 
Fatliquoring of leather is done as an integral part of the retanning process and is done to all leathers regardless of how they are to be finished.

As this is now a highly sophisticated process that locks in the fat liquors there would be no necessity for any more fat liquors to be added during the life of the leather. The 21st century tanning processes make sure that fat liquors do not migrate as they once did which means that 'conditioning' with oils or waxes or fat liquor products are not necessary even if it were possible.

Trying to add more fat liquor could lead to an imbalance in the leather which in some cases could cause additional problems such as mold or spew.

As a trainer to the industry I have once again rechecked this information with technologists and scientists in the industry who have all verified the information.



LTT do not as yet have a distributor in the USA but we ship to the USA every day. Just order through our website and we will take care of the rest.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Judyb
 
Roger Koh said:
I agree to the above – that’s the tanning vessel immersion method, only design for “unfinished” leathers – not possible to be done on fabricated auto seat.



A typical fatliquoring process is done in the tanning vessel with heat averaging 125 degrees F.



The heat and mechanical action alone would cause some concern to the finish even to pre-fabricated finished leathers.



All along I am talking about the leather-safe non-immersion methodology of fatliquoring upholstered finished leather.



A cold fatliquor in a bottle; put it in the fridge and it still looks like fresh milk the next day.



Fatliquor in a bottle is the breakthrough of the 21st Century, most people are unaware off; and so the discussion so far goes off tangent.



The proof of the pudding…in this case, is simply just doing it.



Dried, stiffed and cracked finished auto leathers – if it can be hydrated – it can be fatliquor replenished to as soft as you wish!



Like to see how simple it’s been done?



Roger Koh

[email protected]
Click to expand...



I guess things have changed since this was posted - Dr Leather post 02.10.2010 #15 - Welcome to Dr Leather - Page 2 - - Detailing World -
 
And the saga continues... Think we would have been able to figure out this auto leather thing by now. Like, can we condition coated leather or is it all sealed up and nothing is going to touch it, just the coating/?
 
lostdaytomorrow said:
And the saga continues... Think we would have been able to figure out this auto leather thing by now. Like, can we condition coated leather or is it all sealed up and nothing is going to touch it, just the coating/?
Click to expand...



Try it yourself and go with your first-hand experience ;)
 
If your not satified with any of the hypothesis offered why not do your own research and advise the forum of its outcome?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top