Iron X, truly a safe product for finishes?

I haven't tried Iron X - -yet, but if I can get a few dollars ahead I plan on it. Now, do I think it will replace claying? No, Cee has clearly stated what it will and will not do. I honestly have a hard time understanding why this product has been debated for 5 pages. Let's step back, and on the basic, not exactly "Bubba" level (I is a redneck so I can judge ok) now, if you are going to try this product, or any for the first time, wouldn't you read the directions? and or read reviews on the Forum, and or go to Youtube to see others experience? Heck yeah you would. I agree with Paul Sparks, I don't need to know how to make a watch, I just need the damn time of day thank you very much. I will, and I think MOST of us will research like I've stated and have a pretty good idea how to use something before trying. The thing is, stuff ain't cheap and you damn will don't want to piss money away by using it wrong.

Now, this whole decon step, where do you honestly think it fits in detailing? I know, right after you wax right......no Bubba, I would wash the car first and get the mud, blood and road kill off and then do the Iron X, then rinse and then clay to get the rest off, or I can see doing the clay first, my point is you rinse it off. I think most of us would also either foam it or just give it another quick wash/rinse too. Then dry, and either wax or polish and wax.
 
Great info here! I always love the in-depth conversations like this and appreciate individuals sharing their knowledge.



That being said, it can get annoying when you have multiple experts (or so called experts) disagreeing on things (ex: coated leather care). This is when you have to look at all the info provided and try and decide which person being sincere and which is trying to sell a product.





As far as the OP, I have had no issues with IronX since I started using it over a year ago.
 
What's the most potent version of IronX?



I have some rust stains to tackle, and I need something more potent that "B".



I'm a bit leery of using the FK stuff, but I *am* considering it...bet the IronX is safer though, more likely to be Accumulator-proof.
 
CarPro Iron X Paste – a more concentrated version of Iron X liquid, its higher viscosity enables the product to cling to the surface, so it can be used as a localized treatment as well as larger areas as it remains in place to remove stubborn contaminants
 
Works well as a ‘spot treatment’ and for wheel surfaces that require extra cleaning as it will cling to the surface and dissolve the ferrous iron contaminant.
 
I for one find these types of discussions very informative and instructional even though I may not understand each little point. There are those of us out here who are not earning a living detailing full or part time but just have our own cars (and perhaps a friend or neighbors from time to time) to detail. It is clear to me that the chemical decontamination systems offer a valuable step beyond using just detailers clay, however, in my situation it is difficult to justify some expenditures for just one or two cars.



So what is the consensus:



1. Is the Valuegard ABC System the best overall decontamination system? Is the cost justified for those of us just caring for a couple of cars? OR



2. Is Iron X a more cost justifiable and effective product to use?
 
TOGWT said:
Didn't mean to spend your money... :)
Click to expand...



Heh heh, yeah...not like I need much help with that! :grinno:



But then again, it's a long way from "the list" to the shelf ;)



pwaug- Regulars here know that I'm a huge fan of the ABC, and also that I only work on my own cars and hardly ever do major details....meaning the ABC can sit of the shelf for ages. But it *is* on the shelf.



I bet you do more full details, where the ABC could be handy, than I do by a long shot.



But (shades of TOGWT's comment!), it's easy for me to spend your money.
 
ABC will remain a permanent staple in my arsenal as well even if I do grumble about the cost. I wish costs could be better controlled if one or two detailing vendors with different, better shipping costs would carry this product. It's worth it to me still in terms of not having to clay a veheicle, well, at least not mine and if I use it maybe once a year and on a very select few,repeat customer cars. I still can't believe how sterile white it made that last car I did. If there was no marring, RIDS, you'd swear it had been polished!
 
Is there any surace that IronX shoukd not come in contact with? Such as chrome exhaust tips, black plastic, etc? I am going to be trying it for the first time soon, so I'd like to find out the precuations ahead of time
 
CEE DOG said:
Check our my store bud -

I've spent a lot of time testing and writing tips... Scroll down on there.

Iron X (500ml) - www.CarPro-US.com



I also have full reviews posted here on Autopia about Iron X



Ask me about discounts: we are competitive.
Click to expand...

Thanks CEE DOG:2thumbs:



I read the directions and description on your site. It mentions spraying the surface with IronX, and then let it dwell and agitate with a grout or other paint safe sponge.



I was going to wash the car first, spray IronX on the affected areas, let dwell, agitate with a wash mitt that has been in a solution of Optimum Car Wash, and then rinse. The reason I was wanting to agitate with with a solution of Optimum Car Wash is for lubricity purposes. Do you thing there is a potential for any kind of chemical reaction with the Optimum Car Wash (or any car wash solution) coming in contact with IronX? Do you see any problems with this method?
 
1.- No, there is no risk of reaction of Optimum Car Wash. You can certainly use a mitt as well.

2.- The only problem is you will be diluting the Iron X before you agitated it. You may very well be fine in doing so if its not much contaminants but if it is then after you agitate it you will have also rinsed it mostly away and rather than being able to just let it sit another minute you would have to re-apply IX... Again, I'm a bit more detail oriented than most so maybe fine for you.



Thanks!
 
When using IronX I guess you can't do the whole car before rinsing as the product would dry. So is it best to work from the bottom up so that you're always working to a dry surface?
 
I usually spray the entire car at once. If applied in the shade it won't dry up on the surface in that amount of time. By the time its applied to the whole car you are about ready to go back and agitate at the point you started and proceed.



Just don't let it dry in the sun and your good.
 
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