If/when switching to a 5" backing pad, shouldn't the counterweight be changed? If so, where to get one? I know there are different counterweights for the PC - can they be used with the HF polisher, so if they can't be used, at least they point to the need for different weights for different pad sizes.
Harbor Freight 6" DA
- Thread starter pwaug
- Start date
I'm in too. Finally one of the local stores had one (and I mean 1) in stock. I haven't been posting a lot recently but have been lurking and saw what was out there.
I just couldn't drop $300 on something like the Ruppe or Flex as I've been back to doing autobody and mechanical work and now that's bleeding me dry.
First impressions.
I have my Dewalt Rotary, which I had began polishing with and one of the original PC's, which I was looking to replace.
This thing is heavy, maybe not as heavy as my Rotary but up there compared to a PC but the motor is bigger so I guess that's it.
After washing and prepping (wipe down w/Dupont PrepSol followed by Clay) the hood on my car (black paint), I used a LC Purple Lambs Wool Pad on my own backing plate with some High Temp HC. Two passes and the marring and water spots were gone. This combo left no unexpected marring requiring more work for me.
I used a medium polishing pad w/some Optimum Polish to finish the panel off. It was late in the day and I didn't feel like driving around "chasing the sun" to get the final judgement.
So I just glazed the panel for now.
The machine's power switch is solid (takes some small effort to move it as any good power tool switch would) but it's in a awkward spot. Once you get used to it though it's all good.
A big con is the vibration to the hands. After doing just one panel every time I stopped the machine I could feel a sensation in my hands. It would go away soon after but still.
Combined w/a coupon I got in the mail I brought the thing for about $55.00, declining the extended warranty. If I'm still satisfied (which I think I will be) once I've done some vertical panels and plastic bumpers it's worth the price of admission.
For the record I have not used the Meg's, Girots, 3D or other similar polishers so I don't have any comparison to make.
I just couldn't drop $300 on something like the Ruppe or Flex as I've been back to doing autobody and mechanical work and now that's bleeding me dry.
First impressions.
I have my Dewalt Rotary, which I had began polishing with and one of the original PC's, which I was looking to replace.
This thing is heavy, maybe not as heavy as my Rotary but up there compared to a PC but the motor is bigger so I guess that's it.
After washing and prepping (wipe down w/Dupont PrepSol followed by Clay) the hood on my car (black paint), I used a LC Purple Lambs Wool Pad on my own backing plate with some High Temp HC. Two passes and the marring and water spots were gone. This combo left no unexpected marring requiring more work for me.
I used a medium polishing pad w/some Optimum Polish to finish the panel off. It was late in the day and I didn't feel like driving around "chasing the sun" to get the final judgement.
So I just glazed the panel for now.
The machine's power switch is solid (takes some small effort to move it as any good power tool switch would) but it's in a awkward spot. Once you get used to it though it's all good.
A big con is the vibration to the hands. After doing just one panel every time I stopped the machine I could feel a sensation in my hands. It would go away soon after but still.
Combined w/a coupon I got in the mail I brought the thing for about $55.00, declining the extended warranty. If I'm still satisfied (which I think I will be) once I've done some vertical panels and plastic bumpers it's worth the price of admission.
For the record I have not used the Meg's, Girots, 3D or other similar polishers so I don't have any comparison to make.
Ordered my HF DA polisher last night. For now, I just ordered 6 varying pads from HF as well. I'll give these a go and if I'm not successful will order a different backing plate and pads. My total with shipping was around $88.00 with a 20% off coupon. I correctly assumed that my wife would approve this purchase as a Father's Day gift. Only problem now is that I will be practicing on my dad's Solara or step mom's Corolla as I was given some good advice to just wait a few months since I already have a nice 3 coats of SG on the van. BTW, it looks fantastic - silky smooth and glossy, but evident swirl marks if really looking for them.
SSizzlin'
New member
Wow, who would've ever thought?!?! The HARBOR FREIGHT DA is the same unit as the HD Polisher! It's not a knock on HD, it's a compliment to HF. They're very good DA's!
512detail
New member
just read the whole thread and am really interested in picking one up but almost would rather save that money for a rupes-but not sure if im getting caught up in the hype
First experience with the Harbour Freight DA polisher and Warrior pads (the HF ones)...
Yesterday was the first time I have ever attempted to polish a vehicle with a 'real' DA polisher. I divided my hood in half with painter's tape. I need to perfect my technique. I primed the pad (orange cutting pad) with some quick detailer, then a small amount of Ultimate Compound. I started the machine on the paint surface on about 2 and spread the compound around covering the section. I may not have adequately primed my pad as it tended to sort of jerk from side to side a bit at first. I added a bit more product and took a more firm grip and it worked better.
I turned the speed up to about 5 and did overlapping passes first left to right, then up and down. I did maybe 5 passes in each direction. I would estimate that I was putting maybe 4-5 pounds of weight plus the machine's weight on the surface. I then buffed it off with a clean MF towel. On first inspection, I was thrilled to see that many of the shallower scratches were much finer and the paint had the texture of glass. The definintion of the reflections on the polished side of the hood were remarkable compared to the unpolished side. On close inspection - I didn't have a light - I could still see evidence of swirl marks and, as mentioned some finer scratches. So, I repeated the above process. After that, I did one round of Ultimate Polish with the blue pad. I am amazed by how well these steps removed the fine scratches. The paint looked so much better. My paint has never felt so smooth. I applied one thin coat of KSG and 15 minutes later buffed it off.
In the evening, I was gassing up and looked at the overhead lights reflecting in the paint, I could still see minor swirling. My intention is to polish again to try to completely remove or at least lessen the swirl marks. I was a bit surprised as I would have thought that fine scratches would be deeper than swirl marks. Again, I have much to learn and lots of room to improve my technique.
The DA polisher worked really well - it does vibrate a fair bit on low speeds, but I suppose that's to be expected. It smooths out on higher speeds naturally. I had no issues with pad separation or disintegration whatsoever but I did try to keep them well primed with product once underway. I will say that after watching several dark colored cars being polished on videos, it does seem to be a little harder to tell how much polish you have working on a silver vehicle. I may have over compensated by adding too much product, but I did work it until it was almost invisible.
I couldn't be more thrilled with my purchase. It seems that even though the clearcoat - in my case - seems very hard, these machines are safe on the paint and I feel much more confident than I thought I would about machine polishing a vehicle. My van is a daily driver and does have some small nicks and tiny chips into the paint but the overall look is brilliant.
Finally, I rinsed out my pads for a good while and they are now drying out on the side of the sink.
I appreciate all the guidance this forum and its members offer. I welcome any additional suggestions/advice. Thank you.
Yesterday was the first time I have ever attempted to polish a vehicle with a 'real' DA polisher. I divided my hood in half with painter's tape. I need to perfect my technique. I primed the pad (orange cutting pad) with some quick detailer, then a small amount of Ultimate Compound. I started the machine on the paint surface on about 2 and spread the compound around covering the section. I may not have adequately primed my pad as it tended to sort of jerk from side to side a bit at first. I added a bit more product and took a more firm grip and it worked better.
I turned the speed up to about 5 and did overlapping passes first left to right, then up and down. I did maybe 5 passes in each direction. I would estimate that I was putting maybe 4-5 pounds of weight plus the machine's weight on the surface. I then buffed it off with a clean MF towel. On first inspection, I was thrilled to see that many of the shallower scratches were much finer and the paint had the texture of glass. The definintion of the reflections on the polished side of the hood were remarkable compared to the unpolished side. On close inspection - I didn't have a light - I could still see evidence of swirl marks and, as mentioned some finer scratches. So, I repeated the above process. After that, I did one round of Ultimate Polish with the blue pad. I am amazed by how well these steps removed the fine scratches. The paint looked so much better. My paint has never felt so smooth. I applied one thin coat of KSG and 15 minutes later buffed it off.
In the evening, I was gassing up and looked at the overhead lights reflecting in the paint, I could still see minor swirling. My intention is to polish again to try to completely remove or at least lessen the swirl marks. I was a bit surprised as I would have thought that fine scratches would be deeper than swirl marks. Again, I have much to learn and lots of room to improve my technique.
The DA polisher worked really well - it does vibrate a fair bit on low speeds, but I suppose that's to be expected. It smooths out on higher speeds naturally. I had no issues with pad separation or disintegration whatsoever but I did try to keep them well primed with product once underway. I will say that after watching several dark colored cars being polished on videos, it does seem to be a little harder to tell how much polish you have working on a silver vehicle. I may have over compensated by adding too much product, but I did work it until it was almost invisible.
I couldn't be more thrilled with my purchase. It seems that even though the clearcoat - in my case - seems very hard, these machines are safe on the paint and I feel much more confident than I thought I would about machine polishing a vehicle. My van is a daily driver and does have some small nicks and tiny chips into the paint but the overall look is brilliant.
Finally, I rinsed out my pads for a good while and they are now drying out on the side of the sink.
I appreciate all the guidance this forum and its members offer. I welcome any additional suggestions/advice. Thank you.
jbjwallace
New member
I have also purchased a HF DA(quanity 2) I am going to use 5" BP with 5.5" pads, I also have purchased a 3.5" BP to use with 4" pads. I don't know how the quality is but at the current price I am willing to take a chance.
Hi I am new to detailing so I will have a lot of questions.
Hi I am new to detailing so I will have a lot of questions.
jbjwallace
New member
The Velcro on the HF pads fits a 5" backing plate. The velcro on the backing plate chewed up my
first pad (using their 6" BP):waxing::waxing:
first pad (using their 6" BP):waxing::waxing:
jbjwallace
New member
jbjwallace said:
Question....rather than taking the bearing etc apart, is it possible to add more grease
Through the hole used to lock the gear ( using the tool provided ) and counter weight from moving. In the photos provided the red grease that is coming through the hole is
Coming from the gear casing.
One type of grease that I thank could be used is the type used to grease the nose bearing on a chain saw bar.
jbjwallace
New member
This AM I removed the red front cover of the HF DA and used a grease gun from my chain saw bar sprocket
and filled the cavity with out removing the bearings etc. turned the polisher on #1 at the same time
putting grease into it, the noise was cut by 2/3
and filled the cavity with out removing the bearings etc. turned the polisher on #1 at the same time
putting grease into it, the noise was cut by 2/3