jbjwallace
New member
The velcro on HF pads are only 5" they will work just fine on the HF backing plate. Wrong they need a 5" backing plate and the pads will work:hmph:
Harbor Freight 6" DA
- Thread starter pwaug
- Start date
beamerstrumpet
New member
Shane.belzers said:
+1 on that! Please someone fill in the middle part with some pics of actually pulling it apart. THANKS!
beamerstrumpet
New member
I posted this in AG a few min ago.
You will also notice I did not have to mess with the counter weight.
OK here is where to use your vice grips to break the Torque after removing your backing plate;
I used a toung depressor and filled the primary cavity, then I used an acid brush to cover the gears on the plate.
ONce all good and lubed, put the 2 pcs back together. you will get squeeze out from around the mating surface's then pressed it together to help the grease out.
Just a note to anyone not used to working on this kind of stuff, DO NOT TIGHTEN SCREWS ONE AT A TIME. Make sure each one is started and not cross threading. Once all are as tight as you can get with your screw driver, use vice grips again to put some torque back on it. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TORQUE AND BREAK OFF HEADS!
Then Its time to burp the baby. Start on 1 and work to max. You will get a lot of grease out if you load it up the way I did.
Then I used some IPA on a paper towel to wipe all the grease off the tool, and used duct tape to cover the bleed hole.
Funny how I was so stumped by this until that light-bulb turned on! I will be splicing a longer cord to the unit or maybe just adapting one like is in all the docs I have sent out. Ill get pics for you all.
You will also notice I did not have to mess with the counter weight.
OK here is where to use your vice grips to break the Torque after removing your backing plate;
I used a toung depressor and filled the primary cavity, then I used an acid brush to cover the gears on the plate.
ONce all good and lubed, put the 2 pcs back together. you will get squeeze out from around the mating surface's then pressed it together to help the grease out.
Just a note to anyone not used to working on this kind of stuff, DO NOT TIGHTEN SCREWS ONE AT A TIME. Make sure each one is started and not cross threading. Once all are as tight as you can get with your screw driver, use vice grips again to put some torque back on it. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TORQUE AND BREAK OFF HEADS!
Then Its time to burp the baby. Start on 1 and work to max. You will get a lot of grease out if you load it up the way I did.
Then I used some IPA on a paper towel to wipe all the grease off the tool, and used duct tape to cover the bleed hole.
Funny how I was so stumped by this until that light-bulb turned on! I will be splicing a longer cord to the unit or maybe just adapting one like is in all the docs I have sent out. Ill get pics for you all.
beamerstrumpet
New member
jbjwallace said:
That is probably the same red grease as we are buying in the can.
beamerstrumpet said:
Ok - So I am a complete NEWBIE
I am a DIYer, and I have a Ford Excursion, BLACK.
I also have a dark Blew BMW and a oxidized boat and tractor. Calls for some detailing!
I bought the HF DA Polisher and am going to buy the Buff and Shine 5.0 and some 5.5 pads. Can't I also use the HF 6.0 pads I bought as well?
I have questions on the pad and maybe their is a RTFM portion of the baord, but what is cutting ? What pads do I need to do A,B,C?
I know I have deep scratches, water spots, etc... I want to be able to do this in steps, so I know I want to wash with two buckets, one to suds up and one to rinse the rag? Then wash with Dawn to strip, then clay the car (bought a mequires kit), then I need to compound?
Help!
THanks - PS - Long story short on the grease in the DA, can't I just bust that hole off, then pump in some good quality lithium grease like:
Lucas Oil Products 10005 - Lithium Grease | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Hey - Appreciate y'all and really going to feel good to get my sons name out of the side of the excurision where he scratched it into the clear coat!! LOL
Final PPS - What do you think about what products I should use? Like I said I have the BMW 740il with Dark Orient Blue and the Black Excursion - All have water spots and some scratches, then I have a boat and tractor - heavily oxidized. I was thinking about 3D International, LLC :: Polishes & Compounds :: HD Uno from the other post, for the cards, then I would use something else on the boat and tractor?
Thanks Guys!!
Welcome to Autopia!!! Here's my $.02---B&S 5.5" pads are great pads and fit perfectly with the B&S 5" backing plate. Don't use the HF pads with the HF backing plate it will chew them up when you put pressure on the machine. Save them for the boat, but use with the B&S backing plate if the velcro on the pads is the same as the BP. For the car you need at least 4 pads per step--without seeing your paint condition you could start with 4 yellow for cutting/compounding, 4 green for polishing and a couple red for applying wax/sealant. If your paint is really in bad shape you might be better off with MicroFiber pads for the cutting/compounding step. B&S has these also. Don't forget to do a test spot.
No need to strip old wax/sealant if you're going to polish. Dawn won't strip old wax/sealant anyway. You may want to add a step before the clay--IronX or Valuguard ABC to decontaminate the paint.
IMO go with HD Cut for your compound then HD Polish for your polishing step. Then pick a LSP--HD POXY would look great on the dark blue--it's a hybrid sealant/wax.
No need to strip old wax/sealant if you're going to polish. Dawn won't strip old wax/sealant anyway. You may want to add a step before the clay--IronX or Valuguard ABC to decontaminate the paint.
IMO go with HD Cut for your compound then HD Polish for your polishing step. Then pick a LSP--HD POXY would look great on the dark blue--it's a hybrid sealant/wax.
Thank you for your reply!
What is an LSP? Also is there a dummy youtube channel or video you might recommend for a newbie application and process of cutting with compound, polishing and then the last step with the LSP? I guess that would be sealant of some kind?
Thank you again!!
Jon
What is an LSP? Also is there a dummy youtube channel or video you might recommend for a newbie application and process of cutting with compound, polishing and then the last step with the LSP? I guess that would be sealant of some kind?
Thank you again!!
Jon
LSP is Last Step Product--both waxes and sealants qualify. Here's a link to allot of videos and articles Articles by Mike Phillips - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum However, if you use HD Cut and HD Polish do not prime your pad as shown by Mike--with HD less is more--just 4-6 pea sized drops on your pad for the first section then 3-4 for each additional section. Clean your pad "on the fly" often and use at least 4 pads per step.
czjon said:
Hi -
Just wanted to update. Got off the phone with Rick over at ADS (Auto Detailing Solutions -- Meguiar's Car Wax, Auto Polish & Detailing Supplies Store) and wow - He was very helpful. So I did like you guys suggested above and he walked me through some of the accessories I needed (like the BP and the pads) and steered me clear of stuff that was over the top for what I was doing. There are so many chemicals and accessories, you can go broke buying all this stuff. Just wanted to say thanks to you all and to Rick.
Thanks again,
Jon
Just wanted to update. Got off the phone with Rick over at ADS (Auto Detailing Solutions -- Meguiar's Car Wax, Auto Polish & Detailing Supplies Store) and wow - He was very helpful. So I did like you guys suggested above and he walked me through some of the accessories I needed (like the BP and the pads) and steered me clear of stuff that was over the top for what I was doing. There are so many chemicals and accessories, you can go broke buying all this stuff. Just wanted to say thanks to you all and to Rick.
Thanks again,
Jon