exterior plastics and trim

Jeep trim and C4 - PakShak Auto Detailing Forum
Kean said:
....well, all I can say is that my remarks are from my own observations when using the product. In situations with heavier oxidation and where the finish was uneven (patchy contrast), this pattern would still show through the product after application. On the Avalanche I spoke of, this was certainly the case.



Even after thoroughly cleaning an area with an APC and doing a final wipe down with IPA, it simply wasn't enough. However, with some time and effort (and a lot of scrubbing), I was able to clear up a small area and C4 did work well on that. In fact, that was my game plan although I knew it would take me several hours at least to get the rest of the surfaces to the point I would feel confident enough to apply the C4. Granted, I didn't use a water spot remover but I also never saw instructions from G/Techniq that recommended the use of one. Also, I have doubts a WSR would have made a difference considering the effort I put into restoring my test spot.



I never got around to starting that project because I simply didn't have the time. Fast forward a while later and ETR began sounding more like the solution I might be looking for in this type of scenario (many thanks to Ron for filling me in). I just don't see C4 as a strong restorative solution in these types of cases. ....not without at least partially restoring the surface first (going beyond the basic prep).



Having said all of that, this is not a slam on C4. I still think it's a good, durable, long lasting coating and its what I am currently using on my Challenger and bits of my Forester. As I said a couple of times already, this is all my opinion and personal experience. ....YMMV.
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Legacy99 said:
Jeep trim and C4 - PakShak Auto Detailing Forum
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....skim down to post # 30 in the following thread and you will see what I am referring to in regard to the unevenness in the oxidation showing through (in my scenario). Even partially restoring those surfaces would go a long way to making the result look much better IMO if I were to use C4:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...est-product-plastic-trim-chevy-avalanche.html



The reason I think the ETR kit will be a much better solution for my scenario (and ones similar) is the "Color Gard" component. I believe it will save me a ton of time and effort restoring those surfaces prior to sealing.



Valugard ETR (Exterior Trim Repair) Kit Procedure - YouTube
 
Kean, if you use a acid type water spot remover (Mark V, Rocky Mountain) the oxidation will turn black. You may need to scrub with a brush if the texture is covered with white/grey oxidation.
Kean said:
....skim down to post # 30 in the following thread and you will see what I am referring to in regard to the unevenness in the oxidation showing through (in my scenario). Even partially restoring those surfaces would go a long way to making the result look much better IMO if I were to use C4:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...est-product-plastic-trim-chevy-avalanche.html



The reason I think the ETR kit will be a much better solution for my scenario (and ones similar) is the "Color Gard" component. I believe it will save me a ton of time and effort restoring those surfaces prior to sealing.



Valugard ETR (Exterior Trim Repair) Kit Procedure - YouTube
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Legacy99 said:
Kean, if you use a acid type water spot remover (Mark V, Rocky Mountain) the oxidation will turn black. You may need to scrub with a brush if the texture is covered with white/grey oxidation.
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....hmmm. Never thought to try a WSR to restore oxidized trim until you had mentioned it. I still think I'm going to go with the ETR kit for at least this application though.



btw, I do have some CG WSR on hand I used back in 2010 when I took delivery of my Challenger (had bad water spots/staining). It did a great job in that scenario for that purpose. I don't know how different it is from the Marv/Rocky Mountain formulations though (and whether it will even work the same on faded trim). ....might be worth a shot sometime in the future just to see how it does. I do worry a bit about how it might affect the plastic though.
 
A word of advice regarding the kit.

You "must" apply the UVGard once the ColorGard is dry.

If you do not follow the video or the instructions, you will not achieve the long term results.

Many, many times I answered questions on why the ETR did not hold up, when questioning, found that the user did not follow the instructions and did not apply the UVGard.

UVGard is the "clearcoat" for the system, contains the important UV blockers.

Grumpy
 
....in my case, my reference specifically to the ColorGard component was that I believe it will make the difference I am looking for in the final result in my scenario (vs. just using something like C4 by itself). I'll definitely be using all 3 steps of the ETR kit especially the UVGard since my goal is a long-term, good looking, low maintenance solution for my Dad.
 
I've used the ETR kit a couple times, and found slight streaking. Probably my error, but the outcome was 95% better. I'm sure it would be better the more I use it, but not a high demand product for me. Customers were thrilled.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
A word of advice regarding the kit.

You "must" apply the UVGard once the ColorGard is dry..
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AND, you gotta keep that UVGard off surrounding surfaces. IMO that's probably the biggest challenge for most applications where the trim is still on the vehicle.
 
If you get a little on the paint, no biggy.

Just wipe it off with some water on a damp cloth.

It is an acrylic/latex emulsion, which is why the instruction state to keep water and other cleaners off of it for 24 hours.

For large areas, once I have cleaned the areas and they are totally dry, I will mask off and use a small detail gun to spray on both components, gives a beautiful finish that lasts for years.

I have even used it on my wiper blade arms after lightly sanding with 1000, been on the convert now for over 5 years, they still look new, no fading, etc.

Another tip for the kit, great for waterproofing your golf shoes.

I put two coats of the UVGard around the seams to the soles, etc.

Not fool proof, but really reduces the chance of getting my size 13 feet wet when playing. That is important since most of my balls end up in any creek or water within 30 yards of the fairway. LOL!

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
If you get a little on the paint, no biggy.

Just wipe it off with some water on a damp cloth.

It is an acrylic/latex emulsion,...
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Ah, OK...the instructions seened itmake it sound like a bigger deal than that.



And :chuckle: about your golfing ;)
 
The company's main customers are the car companies and their dealerships.

That is why ValuGard instructions are written the way they are.

Lots of "scare the heck out of em if they don't follow the written instructions" method.

Just imagine sending out close to a thousand kits to Hyundia or other dealerships in Canada and the US, to be used by a minimum wage lot boy to fix a several million dollar warranty issue?

The last big "go around" with the kit was apparently successful and if I recall, we had only a couple of phone calls regarding the use of the kit and no negative feed back from the manufacturer.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
For large areas, once I have cleaned the areas and they are totally dry, I will mask off and use a small detail gun to spray on both components, gives a beautiful finish that lasts for years.

I have even used it on my wiper blade arms after lightly sanding with 1000, been on the convert now for over 5 years, they still look new, no fading, etc.
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....so do you think UVG would work well enough in an air brush? I have a Badger Anthem I use for application of Opti-Seal with really good results, but I wonder if UVG might be too thick for delivery via this method? There is a lot of real estate on my Dad's Avalanche and I have to admit that I have been worried about whether I would be able to achieve an even finish on some of the larger surfaces and some corners/curves. I know I can still have that issue with an air brush but I believe my chances might be better than application by sponge.
 
Never used in my airbrush, so can't help you there.

What the "hey", try it, the gun will clean up with soap and water.

It would be possible to reduce the product with water only, no other type of solvent.

Would probably require at least two coats.

Never tried it, didn't have to.

Works out of the bottle in a detail gun.

Both products.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Never used in my airbrush, so can't help you there.

What the "hey", try it, the gun will clean up with soap and water.

It would be possible to reduce the product with water only, no other type of solvent.

Would probably require at least two coats.

Never tried it, didn't have to.

Works out of the bottle in a detail gun.

Both products.

Grumpy
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As always, thanks for the help. I might just try it then.
 
....well, just ordered my ETR kit so I'll let you know how it goes.



btw, (Ron) do you think the 4oz bottles will be enough (assuming I apply it correctly) for the plastics on a Chevy Avalanche? I believe it's a 2006 MY and doesn't have the side cladding. I also recall you telling me before that some years of this model may pose a problem (something to do with the release agents used on some of the plastics).
 
You got enough, just don't be wasteful, follow the instructions.

Folks tend to treat it like a dressing, which it is not.

A 2006, if I recall, doesn't use the same supplier and the use of an "internal release agent", so if the ColorGard doesn't "fish-eye" when you test on a small area, you are good to go.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
You got enough, just don't be wasteful, follow the instructions.

Folks tend to treat it like a dressing, which it is not.

A 2006, if I recall, doesn't use the same supplier and the use of an "internal release agent", so if the ColorGard doesn't "fish-eye" when you test on a small area, you are good to go.

Grumpy
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Thanks. I'll be sure to follow the directions and also do a small test section before tackling the rest of the vehicle (I'll be practicing on some other "test subjects" first though).



I appreciate your input. I have also been researching past threads (particularly ones you participated in) on the subject to try to increase my chances of getting a good result my first time out.
 
Nice thing is that if you put too much pressure on the applicator sponge, etc.

May observe some small "air bubble" imperfections. (folks have a tendency to apply to much pressure to the sponges when applying)

No biggy, just recoat without removing what you applied.

It will smooth out on it's own due to the emulsion used.

Grumpy
 
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