exterior plastics and trim

[hacadacalopolis]

Here is what i got to say about the plastics;



I constantly use collinite insulator 845 on cars since for me i get it in bulk and it is cost effective for me to use as an LSP in customer detailing. Note: I will generally use caranuba and paint sealants on better cars as well, but for my goto- it is collinite 845



Anywho, i usually wrap the whole car everything in 845. The collinite really feeds plastic very well with machine use, and gives it a nice base for a protectant dressing to go over. Thing about this , is that , you might be thinking "oh yeah but that double work". WEll not really if you take time to wax entire car without doing anything to your exterior trim. You either do or dont go over the trim with something anyway right?



Want to also point out that some of the aftermarket junk rubber,vinyl, and hard plastic can be completly out of question. Such as some terrible front windshield trim. Gotta look out for that ****

 

[SVR]

opti coat, Gtechniq C1 or C4, permanon supershine spray on coating, the japanese coatings like ark barrier and restructure marine polishes all work

great on exterior trims



many smooth ones can be machine or hand polished with non abrasive products - glare micro, prima amigo and glare infiniy are amazing on wiper arms and non textured trims

giving a near permanent polished finish - use 3 inch pads on a rotary or da for best results. vinyl like trims dont like the polishes though.



I dont waste time with dressings or dye's. what I use must last. no ifs no buts

 

[hacadacalopolis]

opti coat, Gtechniq C1 or C4, permanon supershine spray on coating, the japanese coatings like ark barrier and restructure marine polishes all work

great on exterior trims



many smooth ones can be machine or hand polished with non abrasive products - glare micro, prima amigo and glare infiniy are amazing on wiper arms and non textured trims

giving a near permanent polished finish - use 3 inch pads on a rotary or da for best results. vinyl like trims dont like the polishes though.



I dont waste time with dressings or dye's. what I use must last. no ifs no buts

Where do you buy your gtechniq at? It is too expensive for me to use

 

[hacadacalopolis]

opti coat, Gtechniq C1 or C4, permanon supershine spray on coating, the japanese coatings like ark barrier and restructure marine polishes all work

great on exterior trims



many smooth ones can be machine or hand polished with non abrasive products - glare micro, prima amigo and glare infiniy are amazing on wiper arms and non textured trims

giving a near permanent polished finish - use 3 inch pads on a rotary or da for best results. vinyl like trims dont like the polishes though.



I dont waste time with dressings or dye's. what I use must last. no ifs no buts

Where do you buy your gtechniq at? It is too expensive for me to use. My details are only 75$ (Int&Ext) 3-4 hr job.

 

[SVR]

I get it in 25ml bottles from my boss who is the SA agent for Gtechniq. We use it on cars every few days. he gets the big bottles

 

[Accumulator]

I've been doing something a little different on some exterior trim lately- just using a spritz of AutoInt/ValuGard's Fast Finish. Yeah, it's "just a QD" and you have to redo it after every wash, but on some trim it looks great and it does last well enough until the next wash for me. The stuff seems better than my other QDs for this particular application.



Some of the beater-Tahoe's trim that I'd been treating with the Autoglym Bumper Care seemed to get rejuvenated (probably oughta put that in scare-quotes, but it does look a lot better these days even when it needs redone) from that treatment, and I've been doing it with the Fast Finish with good results. Very quick and easy.

 

[wascallyrabbit]

opti coat, Gtechniq C1 or C4, permanon supershine spray on coating, the japanese coatings like ark barrier and restructure marine polishes all work

great on exterior trims

how does the permanon supershine compare to the c4?

 

[Kean]

Where do you buy your gtechniq at? It is too expensive for me to use

I picked up my 25ml bottle of C4 last year from PakShak:



GTechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer 25 ml (0.85 oz)

 

[Kean]

I've been doing something a little different on some exterior trim lately- just using a spritz of AutoInt/ValuGard's Fast Finish. Yeah, it's "just a QD" and you have to redo it after every wash, but on some trim it looks great and it does last well enough until the next wash for me. The stuff seems better than my other QDs for this particular application.



Some of the beater-Tahoe's trim that I'd been treating with the Autoglym Bumper Care seemed to get rejuvenated (probably oughta put that in scare-quotes, but it does look a lot better these days even when it needs redone) from that treatment, and I've been doing it with the Fast Finish with good results. Very quick and easy.

Hey Accum.... Did you even receive your ETR kit and (more importantly) have you had a chance to use it yet? If so, what are your thoughts?

 

[SVR]

the permanon is not as long lasting as the C1 or c4 but at 100% strength does darken the trim and provide excellent protection

and every wash or two, just use 5 to 10% version to keep it mint at all times

 

[Accumulator]

Hey Accum.... Did you even receive your ETR kit and (more importantly) have you had a chance to use it yet? If so, what are your thoughts?

Yeah, I got it and my initial impressions are *EXTREMELY* positive.



I used it to refinish the plastic/rubber/whatever-they-are weather shields in the beater-Tahoe's front wheelwells. They were "hopeless, just throw 'em away"-bad. The ETR kit was *VERY* user-friendly, utterly Accumulator-proof, and it left them looking great. I've done some *careful*, easy flexing and the finish didn't crack/etc. (no, I didn't really put it to a test but I think you get the idea).



The finish might be a little glossy for some tastes/applications, but I'm happy with how they turned out.



But I haven't reinstalled them yet so they haven't been subjected to any real-world abuse, so who knows how it'll hold up. Still, I'm so impressed I'll give the ETR kit a :xyxthumbs

 

[Kean]

Yeah, I got it and my initial impressions are *EXTREMELY* positive.



I used it to refinish the plastic/rubber/whatever-they-are weather shields in the beater-Tahoe's front wheelwells. They were "hopeless, just throw 'em away"-bad. The ETR kit was *VERY* user-friendly, utterly Accumulator-proof, and it left them looking great. I've done some *careful*, easy flexing and the finish didn't crack/etc. (no, I didn't really put it to a test but I think you get the idea).



The finish might be a little glossy for some tastes/applications, but I'm happy with how they turned out.



But I haven't reinstalled them yet so they haven't been subjected to any real-world abuse, so who knows how it'll hold up. Still, I'm so impressed I'll give the ETR kit a :xyxthumbs

....excellent news. It's not that I doubted Ron's word regarding the performance of ETR but it's nice to hear from others who can vouch for it's ability.



I still haven't addressed the issue of the faded plastics on my Dad's Avalanche and it's been bugging me (I've been a new Dad myself since Aug last year and haven't had time for much else). ETR sounds like a great solution for cases like this especially where you don't want to spend hours trying to restore before applying your final product (which is what I would have had to do if I decided to go with C4 as I initially planned).



As far as the finish, I'm not necessarily a fan of products that impart their own shine on these types of surfaces, but I think it would be an acceptable compromise considering the overall improvement that can be gained. I'll try to order some soon and post pics when I do get around to applying it. ....I'll do a test/demo section first.

 

[DetailElite]

I've gotten good results from UTTG, but would like to try C4. Mind you both of these products are on the expensive side and I don't know if that plays a factor in your product search. CG V.R.P dressing is a little cheaper and works well, but will streak when it gets wet if you don't buff off the excess.

 

[Kean]

I've gotten good results from UTTG, but would like to try C4. Mind you both of these products are on the expensive side and I don't know if that plays a factor in your product search. CG V.R.P dressing is a little cheaper and works well, but will streak when it gets wet if you don't buff off the excess.

IMO/IME, C4 is a good product and is proving to be quite durable in relation to alternative products or this purpose. ....I've had it on my 2010 Challenger for several months and on a few bits of my '08 Forester.



However, the surface you will be applying it to needs to either be in new, near-new or restored condition prior to application for best results. Any patchiness or severe fading will show through in my experience. In other words, C4 will not make worn, damaged surfaces look all that better IMO. ....perhaps improved but not significantly. This is why I have an interest in ETR for those types of scenarios.

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Yeah, I got it and my initial impressions are *EXTREMELY* positive.



I used it to refinish the plastic/rubber/whatever-they-are weather shields in the beater-Tahoe's front wheelwells. They were "hopeless, just throw 'em away"-bad. The ETR kit was *VERY* user-friendly, utterly Accumulator-proof, and it left them looking great. I've done some *careful*, easy flexing and the finish didn't crack/etc. (no, I didn't really put it to a test but I think you get the idea).



The finish might be a little glossy for some tastes/applications, but I'm happy with how they turned out.



But I haven't reinstalled them yet so they haven't been subjected to any real-world abuse, so who knows how it'll hold up. Still, I'm so impressed I'll give the ETR kit a :xyxthumbs

It will lose a bit of the gloss once it is exposed to the elements.

Will go to a nice satin/original finish.

The gloss at first is due to the emulsion curing, etc.

If properly applied on a truly clean surface, should last 3 to 5 years.

If after a year or two, you want to "renew" it, just clean with soap and water and put on another coat of the UVGard.

Grumpy

 

[Legacy]

Not true..for severe fading you need to clean with a water spot remover and IPA wipe down before applying C4. [quote name='Kean']



However, the surface you will be applying it to needs to either be in new, near-new or restored condition prior to application for best results. Any patchiness or severe fading will show through in my experience. In other words, C4 will not make worn, damaged surfaces look all that better IMO. ....perhaps improved but not significantly.

 

[Kean]

Not true..for severe fading you need to clean with a water spot remover and IPA wipe down before applying C4. [quote name='Kean']However, the surface you will be applying it to needs to either be in new, near-new or restored condition prior to application for best results. Any patchiness or severe fading will show through in my experience. In other words, C4 will not make worn, damaged surfaces look all that better IMO. ....perhaps improved but not significantly.

[/QUOTE]



....well, all I can say is that my remarks are from my own observations when using the product. In situations with heavier oxidation and where the finish was uneven (patchy contrast), this pattern would still show through the product after application. On the Avalanche I spoke of, this was certainly the case.



Even after thoroughly cleaning an area with an APC and doing a final wipe down with IPA, it simply wasn't enough. However, with some time and effort (and a lot of scrubbing), I was able to clear up a small area and C4 did work well on that. In fact, that was my game plan although I knew it would take me several hours at least to get the rest of the surfaces to the point I would feel confident enough to apply the C4. Granted, I didn't use a water spot remover but I also never saw instructions from G/Techniq that recommended the use of one. Also, I have doubts a WSR would have made a difference considering the effort I put into restoring my test spot.



I never got around to starting that project because I simply didn't have the time. Fast forward a while later and ETR began sounding more like the solution I might be looking for in this type of scenario (many thanks to Ron for filling me in). I just don't see C4 as a strong restorative solution in these types of cases. ....not without at least partially restoring the surface first (going beyond the basic prep).



Having said all of that, this is not a slam on C4. I still think it's a good, durable, long lasting coating and its what I am currently using on my Challenger and bits of my Forester. As I said a couple of times already, this is all my opinion and personal experience. ....YMMV.

 

[Accumulator]

It will lose a bit of the gloss once it is exposed to the elements.

Will go to a nice satin/original finish...

It'll be interesting to keep an eye on it and see how it changes.

..If properly applied on a truly clean surface, should last 3 to 5 years...

The longer the better That's another thing I'll be keeping an eye on. Sure wouldn't mind if it lasted long enough to become the next owner's problem!

If after a year or two, you want to "renew" it, just clean with soap and water and put on another coat of the UVGard.

Ah, cool, thanks for the tip! Though I wouldn't mind if it weren't needed either (see above ).

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Really depends on a number of variables, the one that can affect it is the same as what affects the original finish of the part---what it is cleaned with.

I keep telling folks with their vehicles, original parts, do not clean with a hydrocarbon solvent based product unless you know what is in it.

Many attack the plastic part finish, and in a few days or weeks, it goes to that dull look.

If they treat them as they do their paint finish, IE mild soap and water, most companies black plastic trim will hold up much longer.

3M PrepSol is a prime example of a darn fine product that is intended for bodyshop use to remove waxes and silicone deposits before sanding, etc.(have some in my chemical cabinet)

There are many copies of PrepSol on the market, since it is a well known and does the job, so why not ride their shirt tails. It was never really intended for uses such as many now use it for. 3M is off the hook if damages occur is the user reads the label.



Grumpy

 

[Accumulator]

Really depends on a number of variables, the one that can affect it is the same as what affects the original finish of the part---what it is cleaned with...

Right :xyxthumbs



Seeing as how this is the wheelwell area of the beater-truck, the parts in question will be cleaned with diluted APC at every wash. Sorta a "harsh super-shampoo" effect, but nothing I'd consider abusive (unless you educate me to the contrary!).



And yeah...people use the PrepSol/etc. for all sorts of stuff that'd make me nervous. I'm even a little careful with 3M Adhesive Cleaner, which I've generally found to be pretty safe (but note all those qualifiers ).