Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning by GSRstilez

I'll agree with the OXY in the tank as well. It has clogged up for me. If anything, I throw a little bit of the Bissel's Fiber Cleanser, or some White Distilled Vinegar, with the rest as hot water.
 
I finally broke down and bought a Bissel Turbobrush Proheat. I tried the basic method with great results. In a spray bottle I put 1 scoop oxclean and 16oz of water. I sprayed the carpet down then dipped a meguiar interior brush in a bucket of warm water and started to aggitate the carpet. I then used the turbobrush to apply hot water and used the spinning brush to further clean the carpet. Switched to suction and extracted all the waste water. Once that was done I exctracted while respraying with hot water to ensure that no chemicals were left. One last pass with the brush at suction only and the carpets were almost dry. Let stand for 30 minutes and they were dry and looked very clean. Should of been a better autopian and taken pics, but didn't. Thank you GSRstilez and everyone else who added their own touches. This method works great.
 
When soaking down the carpets, don't you guys worry about the water left behind in the pad under the carpet and the possibility of it causing rust spots on the floorpan?



I happened to have my carpet out of my car when I was having some welding done and it took 2+ days to dry. The surface may be dry but the padding was still damp.



This was using a 5 hp wet/dry shopvac. Just wondering if maybe the vacuum makes a difference in the water extraction.
 
Beason: Glad it worked :).





FastGT94: Every vehicle ever worked on, the floorboards were painted. However, I work in small areas for a reason, using only enough solution to complete the task. I agree with not saturating it.



The vacuum sucks better than a LGCM, but does not spray clean water (rinse) at the surface before extracting. This is also a key step to getting the surface like new.
 
Ah, forgot about the rinse step, oh well lol...



Carpet still looks great with the Woolite (dark colors) and one scoop of oxyclean. Even if some solution is in there.



Something to keep in mind for next time I guess :D
 
Rinse the LGCM every 5 uses with straight distilled white vinegar, then water x 3. I do this once a week when I'm busy.
 
I was wondering, what would be better for general to hard carpet cleaning. Water/Woolite 6:1 or Water and Oxyclean 16oz per scope?
 
Beason: I would stick with the regimen on page 1. Jimmy Buffit pointed out a good point I completely overlooked when I originally wrote this writeup, but have since corrected. That is the RINSE part. You have to rinse out the excess soil and chemicals. And with that, you are safe to use this regimen normally.
 
GSR,



I am allover your interior method now since I got my stuff from TOL, works great, actually enjoy doing carpets now. I can't believe you only need 1 TBSP per gallon, I used a 1/4 cup today per gallon b/c I thought that is what the directions said. Also I wish they would clarify more what they mean by a diluted gallon of APC on the directions.

Also why don't they make something for non-protein stains like grease and oil. What do you use for these?
 
AutoNova: I'm glad :). I enjoy them too. Seeing the stains lift so quickly is soothing to me. I feel the PSR kills all organic stains and the APC cleanses the fibers and thoroughly degreases it. The pretreater helps a lot to attack the bad stuff, but overall I think the hot water will make the difference.





I too agree that the directions are a bit vague.
 
So I guess everyone's opinion is that a good (6.5hp) shop vac will have way more extraction power than the LGCM right? I guess to go over for the Final step with a shop Vac would be best if carpets are still wet.
 
I use some old terry towels (100% cotton not required :D ) if there is still a decent amount of moisture after extraction. Just give the carpets or mats a good wipe down.



This will significantly reduce the moisture and if the towels are light colored you may be able to see some dirt wiping off onto the towel, getting the carpets even cleaner.



If the nap of the carpets get matted down I use a brush to bring it back up.
 
AutoNova said:
GSR,



I am allover your interior method now since I got my stuff from TOL, works great, actually enjoy doing carpets now. I can't believe you only need 1 TBSP per gallon, I used a 1/4 cup today per gallon b/c I thought that is what the directions said. Also I wish they would clarify more what they mean by a diluted gallon of APC on the directions.

Also why don't they make something for non-protein stains like grease and oil. What do you use for these?
What did you mix the protein stain remover with? My problem is I cannot find a carpet cleaner that is low sudsing that it does not take forever for my extracter to remove. I think I am going to experiment on my dads truck and after scrubbing use the wet dry vac, then the extractor to see if that helps
 
Casebrius said:
So I guess everyone's opinion is that a good (6.5hp) shop vac will have way more extraction power than the LGCM right? I guess to go over for the Final step with a shop Vac would be best if carpets are still wet.
I have a professional heated extracter and my 5hp vac has more suction power. Just take the filter off the vac.
 
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