8 Way Paint Sealant Test

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Hi Guys,



Great thread you have going, the paint sealant test is very intreasting! Im a bit of a shampoo junky so i thought i would throw a few things in to the mix.



I wouldent worry about the shampoo thing to much, in the real world where many people will see the results of your test and use those answers to help them buy a product will probably use different soaps. Many of the washes have gloss enhances or "waxes". Many of the waxes are polymer type stuff that work best with sealants.



Just as much as containing enhancers for looks so many of them contain enhancers for rinsing which would effect the sheeting test as much as the minor protection in the wash would effect durability.



I think as long as your not going out and putting a dedicated wash and wax (be a polymer in water affair) on the sealants or shampoo that boasts mega rinsing abilities, eg. Autoglym Shampoo then i think you would be keeping it pretty fair.



You mentioned the Wolfgang wash? Its the same as Pinnicle car wash; coconut smell, low suds, good lube and a 6/10 for cleaning power. It leaves behind a layer of gloss enhancers that wont last longer then the first decent rain.



Over the counter Mothers Cali. Gold will give you bit more everything then #00 but wont leave any polymers, waxes etc behind.



Look forward to seeing the how the next few weeks pan out!



Geoff
 
< < < < < 6 M o n t h U p d a t e > > > > > >



It’s been roughly 6 months since I originally sealed my car and I can honestly say that all panels are still beading! Is there still product on the surface? I can’t say? Is this beading an indication of just surface tension and not protection? I can’t say. What I can say, is that my car isn’t beading any differently now than it was after 1-2 weeks. The unprotected panels are still beading the same (which could be an indication of surface tension). For the last 3 1/2 months I’ve been strictly using Meg’s 00 car wash soap & it hasn’t changed the beading either. Because I visit different body shops daily, I know there tons of fine paint overspray all over my car. I can see/hear it on the windshield and can also feel it slightly on the paint. But, shouldn’t this reduce the beading of water? I open to discussion.



A Few Observations:

*Horizontal surfaces bead differently than vertical panels (naturally)

*Shape of beads aren't as round as initially (could be from reduced surface tension from contaminants)

*Shine/Gloss is unchanged (hardly any micro-marring evident either)

*When spraying down with garden hose, each product sheds water off surface quick

*Rain beads tighter that city water (rain water droplets still on surface hours after it stops raining)

*Clean ability of surface is still good (road tar easily comes off during power washing/hand washing)

*Sprinkler (unfiltered lake water) doesn’t permanently spot finish. (gets parked next to sprinkler (outside) daily



Here’s some pictures 4 hours after a heavy night time rain:



Zaino Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish



08Malibu-4-10007.jpg


08Malibu-4-10015.jpg




Malco Paint Sealant:



08Malibu-4-10016.jpg


08Malibu-4-10017.jpg


08Malibu-4-10008.jpg


08Malibu-4-10009.jpg




Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 Paint Sealant:



08Malibu-4-10018.jpg


08Malibu-4-10019.jpg


08Malibu-4-10010.jpg


08Malibu-4-10011.jpg




Mark V Products Paint Sealant:



08Malibu-4-10020.jpg


08Malibu-4-10021.jpg


08Malibu-4-10022.jpg




CPC Corp R-2000 Paint Sealant – contains DuPont ZONYL



08Malibu-4-10025.jpg


08Malibu-4-10026.jpg


08Malibu-4-10024.jpg




1Z Einsett Glanz Sealant:



08Malibu-4-10027.jpg


08Malibu-4-10028.jpg




Menzerna FMJ Paint Sealant:



08Malibu-4-10001.jpg


08Malibu-4-10002.jpg




Jeff Werkstatt Acrylic Jett:



08Malibu-4-10003.jpg


08Malibu-4-10004.jpg


08Malibu-4-10005.jpg




Unprotected Sections (middle of panel):



08Malibu-4-10006.jpg


08Malibu-4-10023.jpg




Ground drying @ 7:30am after an early morning rain:



08Malibu-4-10013.jpg


08Malibu-4-10012.jpg
 
Here is an idea: mark off a section of each area, then clay and rewax it with the product you originally used in that area.



That will make apparent the degradation that has occurred.
 
I'm really not sure the point of this thread...



My new car, washed with dawn, beaded water for months with no wax or sealant, so I'm not sure about the results.



Also, the application method used was beyond terrible and really has me questioning how much experience the OP has with applying products. One pea sized drop is enough to do a section of the car, yet it seems that 10-30 times too much product was used in each section.



I respect David's knowledge and paint ability, but I think it is painfully obvious in this thread that he isn't as learned as many hear when it comes to the appication and removal of modern crosslinking polymer's which require a thin coat and minimial product usage for maximum curing.



I was excited orginaly by this thread but feel that it falls short on many levels.



Of course applying some product to the sides and others to the top completely skews results as I have seen more then 1 wax continue to bead strongl on the sides while the horizontal sections where flat....
 
Myself I agree with the poster above (TH0001) .. the application methods were flawed. And the beading I am seeing to me is saying there isn't much if anything left at all.
 
I think it's one of the best posts that we've been privilaged to see. I reread the original part of this thread and I didn't see where David "flawed" anything. I suspect that some didn't agree with the outcomes but that's just their opinion. Perhaps if there was a clear winner or loser then this test might "seem" more signicant to some, but for me it just confirms that there are a lot of really good products and you have to decide what fits your idea of best. Is it look? ease of use? price? etc. So opinions will come and go but I just want to say - Thanks David! You did a excellant test.
 
I'm a total novice when it comes to this stuff. Just a curious onlooker, hoping for some unbiased conclusions, especially by the OP.
 
JuneBug said:
I think it's one of the best posts that we've been privilaged to see. I reread the original part of this thread and I didn't see where David "flawed" anything. I suspect that some didn't agree with the outcomes but that's just their opinion. Perhaps if there was a clear winner or loser then this test might "seem" more signicant to some, but for me it just confirms that there are a lot of really good products and you have to decide what fits your idea of best. Is it look? ease of use? price? etc. So opinions will come and go but I just want to say - Thanks David! You did a excellant test.



I haven't used half of those products he's testing, but I believe the problem area lies in the product amount used. It seemed like an awful lot to me, compared to every paint sealant I often use, he used way too much which would have the ability of giving off false results, as the product wasn't used correctly to begin with.:closed:
 
Alfisti said:
The only "problem" with applying too much LSP is that it's a waste.



It should have no effect on the results.



Out of curiosity, what qualifies you to make that statement. Several product formulators I spoke to in the past would likely disagree with that statement, as too much product can cause a number of problems when you are relying on chemical action for produt bonding.



Over application (from what I have been told) can directly effect solvent outgassing, polymer linking, and cause chemical overload. That is some of the solvents can become trapped in the solution, and when wiped away, they become re aggitated back into to the cured product, which removes and weakens the protective layer.



I have spoke to probably six different product forumlators and manufacterors and they agree that with modern sealants, over application is the root of poor product performance.
 
JuneBug said:
I think it's one of the best posts that we've been privilaged to see. I reread the original part of this thread and I didn't see where David "flawed" anything.





One of the flaws was the Zaino application .. it need either ZFX or Z1 to be used with it. And as with most sealants more isn't better.
 
TH0001 said:
Out of curiosity, what qualifies you to make that statement.

Just my experience. Plus the fact that no label (that I know of) recommends caution in this area. If it would make their product perform poorly and effect consumer satisfaction, I would think they would caution against it...like they do about not moistening the applicator on some products.



Several product formulators I spoke to in the past would likely disagree with that statement, as too much product can cause a number of problems when you are relying on chemical action for produt bonding.



Over application (from what I have been told) can directly effect solvent outgassing, polymer linking, and cause chemical overload. That is some of the solvents can become trapped in the solution, and when wiped away, they become re aggitated back into to the cured product, which removes and weakens the protective layer.



I have spoke to probably six different product forumlators and manufacterors and they agree that with modern sealants, over application is the root of poor product performance.

Makes sense.
 
David: First, thank you for your efforts...this has been a lot of work on your part. Could you please clarify something for me? Do I understand correctly that 1Z Einsett Glanz and Menzerna FMJ were only applied to vertical surfaces and not horizontal ones? I also live in Florida and it has always been my experience that the horizontal surfaces take far more of a beating in our sun than do vertical panels. Curious about your thoughts. Again, thank you for taking the time to do this.
 
If any of ya'll have the time - go back to the beginning and read this thread, I did, and you have to wonder why now, after 6 months has passed that the basic methods and processes are questioned.
 
JuneBug said:
If any of ya'll have the time - go back to the beginning and read this thread, I did, and you have to wonder why now, after 6 months has passed that the basic methods and processes are questioned.



I questioned them (as well as Brian) in the beginning as well...



NM, I am not sure why my post isn't there, but all of Brian's posts have been deleted. I remember him specifically calling into the accout that way to much product of each was used (which is correct, IMO).
 
JuneBug said:
If any of ya'll have the time - go back to the beginning and read this thread, I did, and you have to wonder why now, after 6 months has passed that the basic methods and processes are questioned.



Wait, what??? Someone is questioning findings/methods/processes, that can't be because you're not allowed to question things on this site, or so I thought???





LOL







(Read BIG sarcastic remark and not directed to the OP)
 
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