8 Way Paint Sealant Test

[red4.8]

Very nice, good test thanks for taking the time to do it. Very interested in the outcome.

 

[David Fermani]

Interesting test......but with silver paint, almost impossible to detect the differences..... Same thing with white. The only possible visual would be durability. I wish a couple of panels had only wax. That test might show more variabales

I agree, that's why the main focus of the test is for durablity. That's really why I'm not using a wax. It don't think it won't hold up as long. Especially in Florida.

Well, I didn't say it was a "problem". I just said z2 is not that easy to apply, especially when compared to other products on the market.

I agree. Learning curve or not. Especially when a large portion of their target market is non-professionals.

David, If you would like a bit of Ultima let me know, I'll send some to you. I know I'm a little late.

Thanks for the offer. Maybe on the next test.

So you just washed and clayed? I think a cleaner or polish should have been applied prior to the test to get better results, since dirt can affect the outcome.

I guarantee that the finish is 100% free of any an all defects and contamination. I cellophane tested the entire car prior to application and it's completely smooth. Polishing, fallout remover or any other cleaner would have no positive effects for this vehicle's application. On the other hand, it would on a vehicle that had a condition that could deteriorate protection/performance. You would have to address the issue and correct it to insure proper bonding.

I was delighted and a little surprised to see good old Malco in the test. I've used a few of their products and never been let down - I just never thought to try their sealer ( wife says bad things will happen if I buy more sealers - I have a 6-7) I'm doing a little test of my own - did my wife's new Honda with Collinite 845, did my Toyota with HiTemp Terminator (paint sealer).

HaHa. I always enjoy your sense of humor. I decided to give Malco a try because their sealant is one that it's performance is warranted through authorized application centers. We'll see what happens. Good luck on your test too. You should consider testing the Malco too. Don't you use alot of their products?

David, I'd like to ask a little about the beading. In your first pictures (car untouched) the beading looks pretty good. By the time you began to prep for the test, the car was dirty and the beading was diminished, and of course, as you showed, there was no beading whatsoever after the Dawn wash. Do you have any theories on this? In that other thread it was discussed that fresh paint will bead without any LSP, which appears to be shown in your first pictures. The reduced beading in the "dirty" pictures I'll presume was from the dirt, but why did the Dawn kill the beading? Since there was no LSP for it to strip? Was there residual Dawn on the surface at the time you took the picture (since surfactants like Dawn work by reducing the surface tension of the water)? Might the "fresh paint" beading have come back if you had rinsed the car for an extended period?

Thanks for raising this point. That's why I posted the 2 sets of photos. Every brand new vehicle I've seen beads water (unless it is severely contaminated). It might have something to do with the new-ness of the paint. The same goes for freshly re-painted vehicles too. When a vehicle is covered in dirt and grime, it will affect it's beading (dirt doesn't bead). My car (from the time it was built) didn't get washed for well over a month; until I did this test. It was pretty dirty. I think Dawn, becasue of it's PH, affects the suface tension of the surface, which doesn't allow the beading phenomenon to occur. Because I rinsed (powerwasher) the crap out this car for a pretty long time, I didn't notice any re-beading at all. I'm not a scientist, it's just my opinion. If anyone can further explain, please do.

From me, It is Glanz wax. Which like most of their line has been completely reformulated. It is a very good wax/sealant hybrid.

Thanks for the clarification Aaron.

JWT shouldn't be left on for an hour to "haze." It's ready for removal in 5 minutes. If that.

Would leaving it on longer affect anything?

From my limited experiece from observations at the Ford Plant in Dearborn, the trucks had some kind of protectant applied to them just after the final inspection wash at the plant, prior to releasing the trucks to the plants lot. I guess it's possible that new cars also have this protectant or something like it applied to protect the finish during shipping and sitting out in the elements.

I've taken special tours (sponsored by OEM paint manufacturers) of the Rough plant 2 times and Wayne Assembly 3 times & I've seen the wash system(see picture) they send their vehicles through. The only protectant that's applied to their vehicles is just the plastic transit wrap. They should put something better on their vehicles because the one's produced at these plants have some of the worst fallout problems ever.

 

[Wasatch]

Thanks for your reviews/test. I had no problem removing AJ.

 

[IanB]

I am currently using Glanz and it seams like my #1 until the end of these results. So thats the horse I am betting on unless it is proven otherwise. Also you are correct about the pinkish liquid. It is the new formula and is a 'sealant'.



Also from what I can tell, each product received a vertical and horizontal surface for the test. Great idea to give each product ample space and a fighting chance on each surface.



IB

 

[99BlueAngel]

Good experiment. Looking forward to future results and durability. I spent like 10 min scrolling up and down trying to see which one has the best reflection.

 

[gocubbies]

I am currently using Glanz and it seams like my #1 until the end of these results. So thats the horse I am betting on unless it is proven otherwise. Also you are correct about the pinkish liquid. It is the new formula and is a 'sealant'.



Also from what I can tell, each product received a vertical and horizontal surface for the test. Great idea to give each product ample space and a fighting chance on each surface.



IB

i just got glanz 1 month ago and it is not pinkish. who did you buy yours from? and when did they change formula? and where does it say its a sealant? i just went to the EINSZETT site and they dont say anywhere in description that it is a sealant. correct me if i am wrong but i thought sealants had no carnauba in it? and Glanz has carnauba in it? which would make it a wax not sealant

 

[Rob Tomlin]

i just got glanz 1 month ago and it is not pinkish. who did you buy yours from? and when did they change formula? and where does it say its a sealant? i just went to the EINSZETT site and they dont say anywhere in description that it is a sealant. correct me if i am wrong but i thought sealants had no carnauba in it? and Glanz has carnauba in it? which would make it a wax not sealant

some products are a mix of sealants with carnauba

 

[Brian_Brice]

I don't know what product was on your cheese shaped applicator but that appears to be enough to seal a few cars. Which one was it?

 

[Brian_Brice]

Never had a problem in 4 years .. on 3 different cars .. Maybe its cuz I do a lot of cars and learned the little tricks .

I've used it for two months, and found the application and removal as simple as anything.:think:

 

[gldetail]

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.



I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

 

[NSXTASY]

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.



I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

:funnypost :har:

Hmm....something smells a little.......like.......:beware ?

 

[imported_GregCavi]

I've been using Z2 for almost 10 years. Learning curve or not, it does not apply easily.



For that matter, it doesn't always come off all that easily either.

I would be willing to bet that you're applying it to thick. I apply a thin line (spagetti noodle thin) on the applicator and can apply it to several panels at a time. If you apply to thick, it doesn't spread easily and doesn't completely wipe off.



Greg

 

[Junebug]

David, I was looking at the Malco book and was wondering if you used that "poly" sealant? I have used their compound - Perfex with success and Polish - Nano Creme - with outstanding results, just never tried their sealers or waxes.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.



I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

Worst post ever...



FWIW, unless you are baking the teflon on, its not going to stick. Now take your BS and go somewhere else...

 

[TigerMike]

Worst post ever...

So true, lol. There are more holes (mistruths) in his statements than Swiss cheese! 100% Grade A, US inspected, FDA approved....garbage.

 

[KnuckleBuckett]

So true, lol. There are more holes (mistruths) in his statements than Swiss cheese! 100% Grade A, US inspected, FDA approved....garbage.

I work with Teflon and Teflon derivitives daily. Teflon is flat out crap for protecting anything from the elements. It just will not bond to the surface requiring protection without extreme pressure and high temperatures. Teflon is an awesome material for thousands of uses, just not this one.



I agree the above statements are true. It is all hype and BS. Odds are that if it seals and or protects it is NOT the Teflon doing the work. At least not for very long.



BTW Teflon is on its way out. Expect it to be unavailable in the next decade or so.

 

[charger17]

I work with Teflon and Teflon derivitives daily. Teflon is flat out crap for protecting anything from the elements. It just will not bond to the surface requiring protection without extreme pressure and high temperatures. Teflon is an awesome material for thousands of uses, just not this one.



I agree the above statements are true. It is all hype and BS. Odds are that if it seals and or protects it is NOT the Teflon doing the work. At least not for very long.



BTW Teflon is on its way out. Expect it to be unavailable in the next decade or so.

The Teflon isn't what is doing the protection. People think they are getting the same protection as on their cooking pan. That isn't the case. Teflon is solid. It needs to be melted onto the surface at extremely high temperatures to make a uniform film. That can't be done on paint. The temperature needed to melt it would ruin the paint. So, the manufacturers purchase the teflon in a suspension. Very small particles of it are suspended in a water/emulsion carrier. This is added to the sealant. So you aren't getting a uniform film, like your cooking pan, you are getting little dots of PTFE that lay on the surface of the paint. The chemical that is holding them in place and making a uniform "sacrificial" layer is the polymer (usually a charged silicone based polymer)

 

[KnuckleBuckett]

I kind of said that???

 

[David Fermani]

I don't know what product was on your cheese shaped applicator but that appears to be enough to seal a few cars. Which one was it?

If I remember correctly, the product on that applicator was Jet Seal. I started out applying the same amount of each product on each separate pad(to avoid contamination). 1 product went on *really* easy, most went on normally easy and 2 were kind of a pain and needed additional product. As far as the amount of product applied, I guess it depends on which product you're applying to determine how much can or should be used. I've never seen a product that could seal "a few cars" with the tiny amount I applied. I don't see how that could be possible, even if you're using a PC (extended coverage). If a product could cover that much area, I'd be willing to bet you couldn't see the product going on the finish which could lead to untreated surface area or make it more tedious. It's just my thought. Because this was the 1st time using alot of these sealants, I played it safe and applied each one liberally. I don't think that would result in less durability.

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaminants.



I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

I only used Dawn for the initial wash to avoid any soap that could have interfered with the sealant application. Some sealant manufacturers advise doing this. I don't intend on using it again for maintenance washings.



As far as R2000, it doesn't contain Teflon, it contains ZONYL. It used to contain Teflon.



How do you measure durability / protection?

David, I was looking at the Malco book and was wondering if you used that "poly" sealant? I have used their compound - Perfex with success and Polish - Nano Creme - with outstanding results, just never tried their sealers or waxes.

When I went into my local Malco store, I told them about my test and they offered a sample of their strongest sealant. It's the same product that dealers/shops apply and is warrantee by Malco. He poured the sample out of a gallon container & I didn't catch the name. I can get it for you if you'd like or send you a sample.

The Teflon isn't what is doing the protection. People think they are getting the same protection as on their cooking pan. That isn't the case. Teflon is solid. It needs to be melted onto the surface at extremely high temperatures to make a uniform film. That can't be done on paint. The temperature needed to melt it would ruin the paint. So, the manufacturers purchase the teflon in a suspension. Very small particles of it are suspended in a water/emulsion carrier. This is added to the sealant. So you aren't getting a uniform film, like your cooking pan, you are getting little dots of PTFE that lay on the surface of the paint. The chemical that is holding them in place and making a uniform "sacrificial" layer is the polymer (usually a charged silicone based polymer)

Thanks for clarifying this. I know you know what you're talking about. :2thumbs: I'd appreciate any more input on the test and/or judging the results you'd be willing to offer.

 

[derek37]

Using dishwashing soap is tough on car finishes. I't's not made to wash cars and is extremely harsh. I'd go to a car wash soap formulated for car finishes. Then clay to remove any other contaniments.



I found the R2000 the best sealant to use. Contains highest Teflon content and lasts for ever. Goes on and comes off easy. I've sprayed it on and applied with a orbital. Both work about the same. Loss of beading does not indicate loss of protection as with wax. Teflon can only be removed with thinner or sanding/compounding.

I apologize for the broke state of Michigan. :usa