2 passes with M105/Wool, no luck...

Ok, just talked with the owner..may be bad bad news..parts of the car have been repainted. He says he does not know for sure, but the hood could have possibly been blended. What I am thinking now, is that they could have recleared over the existing swirls in the paint, therefore making it impossible to correct...



any opinions on what to do with this situation now?
 
JohnDeere said:
hey gm black, it was a joke, ok
Click to expand...



No, I don't think it was.



but on a more serious note, I think that you are just going to have to live with the swirls as they are probably under a layer of clear now.
 
PresdntialDtail said:
Ok, just talked with the owner..may be bad bad news..parts of the car have been repainted. He says he does not know for sure, but the hood could have possibly been blended. What I am thinking now, is that they could have recleared over the existing swirls in the paint, therefore making it impossible to correct...



any opinions on what to do with this situation now?
Click to expand...



Billy,



As I was reading through this thread, I was starting to wonder if it had been repainted. I've corrected hammered red Honda paint with a lot less aggressive combo (and a PC) than you're using.



Best of luck!
 
Sorry to hijack the thread, but is this green, German LC foam pad the standard green pad from LC or do you have do get it from a particular vendor?



EDIT: WHOOPS! Should've read the entire thread...Didn't see that Knuckle and a couple other asked the same question. Sorry, guys.



weekendwarrior said:
I own a Honda, and here is something else you can try. Take some SIP, and a Green, German LC foam pad, and work the SIP over the RIDS. With the Green pad, you can really work the SIP, and take out some pretty decent defects, due to the long working time this process produces.



You can also try something like M95 that gives a longer working time than the M105 to better take advantage of the pad's cutting ability.
Click to expand...
 
iamwaxman said:
Since you've already got the M105 and the wool pad (plus plenty of others)...



Go ahead and try this:



1. Prime the pad THOROUGHLY.

Rub it in with your hand. It'll take a bit more than you're used to applying.



2. Apply a bead of M105 to the surface, pull it in, and polish at low speed (1000 rpm).

Try 2-3 passes, or until the M105 is just starting to dry.



3. Using a fine mist, spray the surface with water.

Do not add additional product- Just re-polish with what's already in the pad.



I think you'll see a 50% improvement in the cut, but you'll probably see an increase in swirling (it can be easily removed).



After trying this method (count it as one cycle), spur the wool pad (blow it clean with compressed air if you have it).



I won't PROMISE a better result, but I am pretty sure you're going to GET a better result.
Click to expand...



THIS PROCESS WORKS!!!! Thank you so much waxman! I did exactly as you said, prime the pad thoroughly, laid about a 5-6" bead down, 1000rpm, worked until drying, then spritz with water, and keep going until it finished down. Worked flawlessly!



Here the results:

BEFORE:

IMG_4637.jpg




After several different processes including 2 passes with M105/Wool(normal), 2 passes with SIP/Wool, SIP/Orange, SIP/White..NOTHING WORKED!

IMG_4640.jpg




Now after ONE "pass" using new process from iamwaxman, followed by 106FA/white:

The light is out of focus because I had it to show the swirls not a perfect reflection of light..

IMG_4638.jpg
 
Here is a little more detailed:

BEFORE:

before1.jpg


BEFORE: I messed with the levels in PS to make the swirls stand out.

before2.jpg




AFTER:

after1.jpg


AFTER: Used same exact process as for the before picture.

after2.jpg
 
Awesome! Good work and great job on being persistent. It's very frustrating when the combinations tried do not work. My brother has a repaint (black) on his G35 and that paint is very tricky as well.



I'm subscribed now too :)



I was playing with 105 and a PFW pad on the Flex and couldn't quite get it to cut as I thought it would. I am going to definitely try this method. :xyxthumbs
 
twitch said:
I was playing with 105 and a PFW pad on the Flex and couldn't quite get it to cut as I thought it would. I am going to definitely try this method. :xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



Use caution when trying the water trick with a random-orbital or a forced rotation/orbital (such as the Flex)...



You may see an increase in cut, but there's a strong chance you'll encounter a bit of micro marring, as the abrasive might clump near the pad's edge.



Try it, but make dang sure to keep that edge CLEAN.



AND!- Watch the bleach-box scenario with that machine...

Once that water evaporates, the pad might hook up like a drag slick. :doh
 
Kevin "iamwaxman" is definitely "the man" when it comes to the Meguiar's products. He is correct with the chance of marring when using water or a QD with M105 on an orbital. You have to remember that these are non diminishing abraisives, but are all similar in size (following the unigrit idea). when they clump, since they do not diminish, you can get a plethora of different sized abraisive clumps on the pad, that do not evenly break down (since there is no breaking down of the abraisives) as the product is worked.
 
Welcome to the world of proper M105 usage. It's a WONDERFUL world.



I actually have been that method (Found it out from trial and error, good to see Kevin uses it too apparently) and have been very pleased with it.



People need to remember that M105 doesn't play by the same rules as other compounds as it uses a new and unique non-diminishing abrasive. So, using a little logic one can find ways to get more time out of the product by keeping it wet, and therefor keeping it working.



There is also a way to buff M105 dry, or essentially completely off of the paint and if done properly it leaves a fantastic finish and virtually no removal of product is needed...but this requires a perfect blend of technique, weather, and cooperative finishes/pads. (and a rotary)
 
Lumadar said:
Welcome to the world of proper M105 usage. It's a WONDERFUL world.



I actually have been that method (Found it out from trial and error, good to see Kevin uses it too apparently) and have been very pleased with it.



People need to remember that M105 doesn't play by the same rules as other compounds as it uses a new and unique non-diminishing abrasive. So, using a little logic one can find ways to get more time out of the product by keeping it wet, and therefor keeping it working.



There is also a way to buff M105 dry, or essentially completely off of the paint and if done properly it leaves a fantastic finish and virtually no removal of product is needed...but this requires a perfect blend of technique, weather, and cooperative finishes/pads. (and a rotary)
Click to expand...



Care to explain more...:drool:
 
Lumadar said:
People need to remember that M105 doesn't play by the same rules as other compounds as it uses a new and unique non-diminishing abrasive. So, using a little logic one can find ways to get more time out of the product by keeping it wet, and therefor keeping it working.
Click to expand...



Cutting it with Optimum Polish (about 20%) dramatically will increase the polishing time too. I can get 2-3 minutes of polishing if needed out of that combo. Of course, water is free... ;)
 
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