1971 Chevy Cheyenne [Big Writeup]

Jngrbrdman

New member
<strong class='bbc'>Cleaning the Interior[/b]
By Ross Johnson (StyleTEG)

The basic areas of cleaning your cars interior are broken down to carpet, fabric, vinyl, and console. During the winter seasons, sometimes the only thing us car enthusiasts can detail is the interior due to the bad weather.
Even in the summer time, an interior that looks like it came right off of the showroom floor will make everyone love your car.

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The first step is basic cleaning. This means getting as much dirt and dust out of your car as possible. The best way to do this is using some diluted simplegreen and a soft bristled brush. I find that old toothbrushes are great for this. To get light dust off of the dash and other areas, I only use water. Most of the time, dust is most prominent on the dash and in the vents. A quick wiping down the dash with a wet cloth will clean up most of the dust. Using a damp toothbrush works well with hard to reach areas like the vents. The pedals of your car are also often quite grimy. These often require heavier cleaning and are the only part where I spray cleaner directly on the surface and not on a towel. A thicker brush will loosen up the mud stuck in between the pedal crevices.


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Most cars have quite a bit of carpet in them. While the floor mats are designed to keep the factory carpeting as clean as possible, often times spills, dirt, and grim find their way past them. Luckily it is fixable! The most effective way to clean any carpet is steam cleaning. Unfortunately most of us don't have access to a steam cleaner, nor want to deal with the hassle of renting one. Luckily there is a good way to get most stains out!
Shampooing the carpets will get almost all stains out and leave your once worn carpets looking great again. Do a heavy vacuuming before shampooing, to get as much loose dirt out of the car as possible. Before shampooing your carpet and fabric, it is best to attack the heavy stains individually. For this using a good spot remover like Eagle One Zap Spot Remover, will help brake up the stains and allow them to be vacuumed up in the final steps. Next, get a carpet shampoo and mix the correct amount with water as marked on the bottle. This will create a sudsy solution not unlike car wash shampoo. Using an upholstery scrub brush, work the shampoo into the carpet and fabric, using the brush to agitate the dirt and let it rise to the surface. For best effectiveness, try and use the suds only, and apply as little water as possible. Wipe off accesses suds with a terry cotton towel.
Once you have gone over the whole interior, get a bucket of warm water and dampen a terry cloth towel with it. You don't want the towel soaking, just damp. Use the towel to wipe off down the whole interior, and remove the dirt and extra shampoo.

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Using a wet-dry vacuum (most coin operated washes have these), vacuum down any areas that were shampooed to suck up as much water as possible. Finally, do a final drying stage using a hair drier. Be careful not to hold the drier to close to any fabric as it may cause burn marks.
The other option in cleaning carpet and fabric is to use cleaning foam.
These products are effective and will leave your carpet clean, but unfortunately are not quite as powerful as a good shampoo. Two positives, is that they are easier to use, and quicker. It is a simple process, spray onto the fabric. It will start to foam. Once you have enough on the area, use a brush to work the foam into the carpet. Allow adequate time for the foam to dry. While it is drying, it will loosen the dirt embedded into the fabric, and raise it to the surface. Once the fabric is completely dry, use a vacuum to suck up all dirt that has been broken loose.

If you want to go the extra mile, then you can protect your fabric and carpet as well. 303 products, Scotchguard, and 3M all have quality, fabric protection products. After all, the best way to be stain free is to prevent them all together. These products help water bead on top of the fabric, much like wax does to paint. This prevents the water and dirt from soaking into the fabric, and will keep stains and dampness to a minimum. To apply, make sure the fabric is completely dry and free of dirt. Spray the area lightly with the product. The idea is to get the fabric damp, but not wet. Two light coats is much better than one medium coat. Not only will this keep your interior looking great longer, but it will prevent the fabric from fading and keep it looking factory fresh.

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Leather is a very luxurious fabric that provides extra comfort due to its soft nature. With the comfort and class that leather provides, it also provides slightly more work to keep good care of. Leather is a very porous material, after all at one point it was the on a cow, and much like our own skin the pours were used to sweat out water. Now the leather works the other way as well, it will absorb dirt, and perspiration into its pours, which will eventually cause it to harden, and shrink.
The two-step process starts with mild cleaner. You want to only use leather specific cleaning agents on leather. Any harsh soap may damage the fragile leather. Spray the cleaning agent onto a clean towel, and work it into the leather.
It should create a slight sudsy solution. On really dirty applications, and to get into cracks, use a soft bristled toothbrush.
Once the leather has been cleaned and rid of dirt, it needs to be conditioned. Leather conditioner should leave the material very soft, and replenish its natural oils. Many leather conditioners have a nice sent as well.
When it doubt, it is always better to make two light passes with cleaner and conditioner than on heavy pass. I have found that Lexol Leather products are the safest and most effective products available.

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After all the fabric and carpet has been cleaned, vinyl is the biggest area to tackle. The vinyl of your care is important to take care of, and Integras have lots of it used in the interior. The area that needs the most protection and care is the dashboard. The dash gets exposed to lots of UV light, which can quickly cause damage and fading. Cleaning it, and keeping it protected should be done twice a month. To clean it, use a mild soapy water solution. I use warm water, and let a bar of ivory sit in it for a few minutes. Dampen a towel with the solution, and wipe down all areas of the dash. Follow up with a dry towel. Any areas that have stains or are particularly soiled, use leather cleaner to remove.

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Once the dash is clean and dry, its time to use protection. What to use all comes down to personal preference. What you should stick away from are any products that use silicone oils and petroleum distillates. These chemicals, often found in cheaper vinyl dressings like armor-all, will cause your dash to dry out and crack. While most products don't list every chemical used, the best way to avoid these harmful chemicals is only get high quality vinyl products. The products I like, and are safe are Lexol Vinylex, Aerospace 303, and Eagle One protectant lotion.

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What product you use, depends on how you like your dash to look. Vinylex has a very high gloss shine. If you like a deep, shiney dash than there is no better product to use than Vinylex. If you prefer a matte rich color, Aerospace 303 is your choice. It gives the vinyl factory richness, with out the blinding shine than other products produce. Eagle One protectant lotion is somewhat in the middle, not to glossy, but still has some shine. It is also very easy to apply with out accidentally splattering it all over, due to it being a lotion and not a spray. Finally, some people prefer to use a leather conditioner. While this doesn't provide as much protection, it does leave the dash looking and smelling nice. A good combination is Aerospace 303, and Lexol leather conditioner on top.

To apply your vinyl dressing, apply a small amount to a towel or rag. The key to a good-looking dash is to apply the product evenly. You don't want some areas soaked in it, and others just barely touched. Make several light passes over the entire dash, do one area at a time until it reaches your desired saturation level. Once you have gone over the whole dash, let it dry for an adequate amount of time. Then, follow up with a terry cotton towel, and give the whole dash a light buffing. This will remove any access and leave you with an even finish.

Once finished with the dash, continue on to all the other vinyl areas. The Integras have a lot, including the head liner, around the shifter, the doors, sun blocks, and posts. Doing an even job on all the vinyl in the car looks absolutely stunning.

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Next, it is time to treat the plastic areas. This includes the center console, the clear plastic covering the gauges, and around the vents. Your best bet in keeping plastic clean, and in good condition is to use a good plastic polish/cleaner. 3M makes a great Polish and Cleaner product, as well as Plexus. Apply the product just like you would car polish, put a small amount on a towel or cotton swab and work it lightly into the plastic until it buffs out. Wipe off any access with a towel. For areas like the clear plastic in front of the gauges, you want to only use a good plastic polish.
The use of other cleaners or solvents may scratch the plastic leaving a cloudy haze and making it hard to read the gauges. When polishing this area, work only in a diagonal up and down motion, no circles. A scratch is most visible at a 90-degree angle, in a diagonal fashion, any scratches will be barely visible when driving.

The polish will leave all of the plastic looking rich and shiny again.
Plastic polish can also be used to remove scuff-marks in plastic and vinyl areas. Common places where this works well, is around the plastic shield over the steering wheel, the front kick panels, and the lower portions of doors. The plastic polish should remove some of the scuffing, and reduce the visibility of it. While some scuffing is to extreme to remove all of, it can certainly be helped.

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Finally, all glass should be cleaned and removed of oils. A great technique being used by detailers for years is newsprint. That's right, your normal every day black and white newspaper. The ink in newspaper, when used with a light lubricant acts as a fine polish. This polish lightly removes weather damage, and embedded dirt, which then clings to the paper itself providing a great cleaning action. Using a light glass cleaner such as diluted Windex and newspaper does wonders. Make sure you never use this technique on the rear window, as it has thin wires, which are use to defrost and any abrasives from the ink could damage them.

Now the inside of your car should be looking great. The vinyl should be clean, and protected. The plastic should have depth, and its original color, and the carpets should be spotless. The only thing now is to wait for the next person who gets in your car to ask. "Wait, how old is this car?"

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Much thanks to StyleTeg for writing this up!!

Due to a glitch in the forum, this thread will be in Exterior for awhile.
 
What are some good brand name carpet shampoos I should look for???



Jngrbrdman,



Excellent artice:xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs



I will use this artice in my truck and some of the family members cars. Should look awesome. You da man,,,,,,91;)
 
Its too bad the pictures became unlinked. This is a pretty old article you've dug up here. :p



I am a huge fan of Prestone foaming carpet cleaner. Its the one in the red can. Accept no substitutes! The Prestone one is the only one in a red can that works. There is another one that Turtle Wax makes that sucks big time. I love my prestone though. I've got some great pics I need to upload that sing the praises of Prestone. Very nice stuff. You can find it in Target or PepBoys most likely.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
Its too bad the pictures became unlinked. This is a pretty old article you've dug up here. :p



I am a huge fan of Prestone foaming carpet cleaner. Its the one in the red can. Accept no substitutes! The Prestone one is the only one in a red can that works. There is another one that Turtle Wax makes that sucks big time. I love my prestone though. I've got some great pics I need to upload that sing the praises of Prestone. Very nice stuff. You can find it in Target or PepBoys most likely.



oh c'mon, last year, old??????;)



I still listen to Slayer when there first CD came out:xyxthumbs



I will look for the Prestone stuff and give a whirl. I hate vaccuming with a home vaccum cleaner, big, loud, handle falls down scrapes you :angry :grrr not to mention they don't suck dirt up all that great IMO, even when the bag is empty and new.



Now Shop Vacs, those things will suck up ground grime!!!! I used there Carpenter series once, those things will literally pick up the carpet somewhat:eek: Still a damn good article man :) ,,,,,,91
 
I had the opportunity to work on a friend?s 1971 Chevy Cheyenne over the course of the last few weeks. The owner understood I had school and exams to worry about, so he dropped it off a few weeks ago and said call me when you can get to it. Although I had picked at it on and off, I was finally able to polish and wax the truck in the last few days.

This truck is driven frequently in the summer month and has had its share of wear-and-tear. Although the paint is far from perfect, the metal is incredibly solid. He wanted the paint cleaned up and protected. After trying a few things, it was clear that a 1 step polish could make the paint look a million times better and do more than just clean up the look of the paint.

I began with a wash and proceeded to check the condition of the paint. Although there was rust coming through, the panels were solid and it was left alone this time.

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The glass was in need of a cleaning as well. I used Sprayway glass cleaner on the glass, and finished with SIG w/repellant on the outside [after images at the end].

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I turned my attention to the wheels. I do not have individual after pictures of the wheels, but I used a slidelock brush and a toothbrush with Megs APC, which quickly melted the dust off. I lightly polished the caps and sealed everything before reassembling.

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I spent a good amount of time on the little things. The gas cap was removed and with 0000 steel wool and a metal polish years of buildup was removed.

Before

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In progress

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The sill plates were rusted and covered in contamination. After cleaning them, I used Collinite Metal wax to polish them. It has a high cut for being a metal wax.

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These window stickers were also baked onto the inside of the glass. With the help of glass cleaner, terminator, and plastic/metal blades, it was completely removed [After pictures in the final shots].

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Before polishing there was one more area to be addressed.

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We had to remove the cowling piece to access the debris. I had started by vacuuming out the debris, but it was never ending, and after determining there was something large in there, we decided to remove the cowling.

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It was completely cleaned out before being reassembled.

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The engine bay, although I have no pictures, was completely cleaned and dressed where necessary

Finally, it was time to polish. The paint was definitely oxidized and swirled up badly.

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I used M205 on a tangerine polishing pad on speed 5 with my PCXP.
A few 50/50 shots

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The white also greatly benefited from the polish.

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Single Stage paint clogged up the pads exceptionally quick. After each panel, or sooner, the pads were cleaned with a MF and with compressed air.

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The Air is a great way to remove it :D

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When I finished polishing by machine, and hand polishing the numerous areas that were difficult to reach with machine, I applied a coat of Collinite 915.

I was finishing up the morning the owner came, so I did not take many pictures, but the tires were redressed, the wheels were wiped down with a OID, the paint was wiped down as well, and the trim/seals were dressed with hyperdressing or 303. The interior was cleaned [a week earlier], with Folex on the carpets and everything else cleaned with an APC, wiped clean, and OCW was used on the interior painted metal.

Glass cleaned, paint protected

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Tires dressed, wheels clean

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Here are the only other full shots of the finished product. The bumpers were polished by machine with M205 as well, and sealed with OS.

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Sorry for the million pictures, but it was a great deal of fun working on all of the small details of this truck and turning around the look of the paint. Thanks for looking!
 
That was a beautiful job Luke.

The truck was a mess, and you really turned her around.:thumbup:

btw, what is gods name dod you remove from under the cowling?:eek:
 
Luke - wonderful documentation on that slightly used ride :wink:

I wonder if that is a bird's nest Barry since it has all the nice fluff to keep them warm.
 
That was a beautiful job Luke.

The truck was a mess, and you really turned her around.:thumbup:

btw, what is gods name dod you remove from under the cowling?:eek:

Luke - wonderful documentation on that slightly used ride :wink:

I wonder if that is a bird's nest Barry since it has all the nice fluff to keep them warm.

Thank you guys, I 'was' betting it was mice. There was an opening in the side of the insulation and there was a little burrowed-out area inside. However, there were a lot of pine needles and other debris in there as well.
 
Nice work Luke, not a lot of people would have been thrilled to work on an older truck like that. Glad you brought it back to life.

-Kody-

I had a blast, thanks for the compliment

Awesome turnaround Luke, you made it worth more now!

Thanks Angelo!

My first vehicle was a "peach" 1972 Chevy Cheyenne that had been in family since it was bought new. :) Memories!

That looks awesome! That's exactly what the interior looks like, although after spending a ton of time cleaning it, I never took after images :/

Great work Luke!


Bet the owner was blown away! =P~

Thanks Chad! He was very happy.
 
Great writeup and a fantastic job!!

I'm always amazed at the 50/50 shots you guys are able to get!! Just amazing work by everyone on here!
 
Nice work. You must have put a lot of hours into it.

It is interesting to see how sheet metal and production techniques have improved. The factory welding now looks crude.
 
Wow what an awesome thread, thanks for sharing!!!!
The TID clean area of the pad is very cool as well.



This however is GROSS. It looks like either a baby Wookie Fist or little mice surrounded by a big mouse.


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