1966 Pontiac Lemans Show Car, Full Sanding and Polishing

Awesome stuff Josh......:xyxthumbs



Your story book threads with pictures and instruction are top of the line. The product side by sides were very informative and my favorite....



Total professional service.......



Maybe next time, with that much correction and documentation, see if you can get some paint thickness readings as you go along. It would be interesting to know how many mills a correction like that will remove......



Again, great work.....Keep it up......:xyxthumbs
 
JoshVette said:
However the lubes in the M105 hide them just a tiny bit as well, since I reinspected the trunk lid the following day to find significant holograms that I could not see directly after polishing it the day before under the hologens.
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I've found a couple things regarding that. First, the sun is absolutely the best hologram finder and two, the sun also does a good job evaporating the polishing oils, especially this time of year. A few months ago, I was using DACP on a black car and it looked perfect right after polishing. 5 minutes later, the polishing oils were gone and I could see the light holograms left behind.
 
lt1_man said:
Great Job Josh and that guy did a great job on the body work. I may have to look into getting some 105 and trying it out. And I love how he retrofitted a modern day lt1 into the engine bay.



-Brandon
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Thanks, he was going to put an LS1 in there but he'd have to change and motor mounts so he stuck with the LT1 since it fit better....
 
steck said:
looks great.



seems like a real 'kudos' to meguiars 105 (again).



sitting here wondering what #80 woulda looked like (instead of the FPII) !!



regardless, top notch work :eek:
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Thanks, yea like I said there is probably about 3-5 different combos' that would have worked on this car, but I had to get it done quick and use what I have.



Thanks again for the kind words.



Josh
 
rydawg said:
Superb write up Josh and love the pics! That is an amazing job on an amazing car.



I know it is tough when a person has a budget and you have to put together a process to meet the guidelines. You did an amazing job on doing it all within budget... Bravo!
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Thanks Ryan. I hate working within a budget, it's never really spoken, you just kind of know what they're willing to spend and try to make it work so that everyone is happy.



It did turn out nicely and the owner told me in the 40+ years he's been painting cars as a hobby he's never seen a "rub out" done so well or so long. I think he deserves more credit then me though for doing a kick butt sanding job.



Josh
 
Moutee said:
Great writeup, Josh. I found myself writing down your process for working in each of the polishes so I can use it for reference on my next detail. Thank you and keep up the good work! :D
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Thanks, a word of caution though, this process worked on this car due to it's paint being exactly what it is.



On a car with a softer or harder clear coat however this process will not work exactly the same as it did on this car.



If you have super soft clear like NSX's are known to have this combo will leave your car horribly marred as M105 is way to strong for super soft clear, you'll want something more like Menz IP. If you have a hard clear like a Vette or Audi then you'll probably do okay with this process as it has two heavy cutting compounds that should work well on a hard clear. Just fyi.



Josh
 
imaj said:
Josh...Incredible work! I would love to swing by one day and see how you work that Makita. Let me know if that is something you would entertain. Yes, I am the same imaj from 6 speed.
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Thats' not a problem at all. I'm not sure the next time I'll have a show car at home for a week, but when I do I'll let you know.



Otherwise I'll be in Houston this week working on a CGT and GT3 and then I'm doing Vacation for a week after that, so it may be a little while.



Good to see you on this board also.:bigups

I also posted this up on 6speed.

Josh
 
Dave1 said:
Awesome stuff Josh......:xyxthumbs



Your story book threads with pictures and instruction are top of the line. The product side by sides were very informative and my favorite....



Total professional service.......



Maybe next time, with that much correction and documentation, see if you can get some paint thickness readings as you go along. It would be interesting to know how many mills a correction like that will remove......



Again, great work.....Keep it up......:xyxthumbs
Click to expand...



Thanks, you're right about the thickness measurements, I've been meaning to get one of those things along with a bunch of other stuff.....



The car was primered and sanded a bunch, then two shots of black PPG and then two shots of Clear PPG, the most expensive clear PPG makes ($300 per gallon), he gave me the code to it but I don't remember where I wrote it down at. Don't think it matters much anyways cause I understand the hardness depends on how much thinner is mixed in as well as how much hardener is mixed in and I can't account for that but the owner could but we didnt' get into that conversation too much.



It would be a better test if it were measured before sanded then remeasured after sanding then again before polishing and again after polishing.



It would be an interesting study.



Josh
 
Scottwax said:
I've found a couple things regarding that. First, the sun is absolutely the best hologram finder and two, the sun also does a good job evaporating the polishing oils, especially this time of year. A few months ago, I was using DACP on a black car and it looked perfect right after polishing. 5 minutes later, the polishing oils were gone and I could see the light holograms left behind.
Click to expand...



Scott, you are right the sun is the best but I could not pull the car out to double check my work in the sun till the very end unfortunately, but I could tell a difference with 500W directly after polishing and then the next day I could see the holograms that were not there before.



I definately was going to double check things one way or another and I'm glad I did.



Josh
 
Amazing write up! Appreciate you answering the questions about the pads I had in the beginning.



Just one more question!



I notice you jewel the polish after you break it down. So you basically work it in at the highest rpm (1700 give or take) and then what does "jeweling" mean? Do you break it down to a certain point, i.e. until it's evenly spread and has the "clear" look to it, then really take your time working it in at 1000-1200?
 
d00t said:
Amazing write up! Appreciate you answering the questions about the pads I had in the beginning.



Just one more question!



I notice you jewel the polish after you break it down. So you basically work it in at the highest rpm (1700 give or take) and then what does "jeweling" mean? Do you break it down to a certain point, i.e. until it's evenly spread and has the "clear" look to it, then really take your time working it in at 1000-1200?
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Yes, depending on the paint and level of correction as well as the type of polish will determine if I go 1500rpms or 1700rpms or what have you.



Then once the polish is starting to get clear I'll start turning down the speeds to like like 1100 then 900 or 700rpms.



Then I work it in a while longer on the lower settings but go just as slow over the surface. It really seems to help work the product to a finer level.



Josh
 
Very nice work Josh!



If I may suggest a few other compounds to try to remove sanding marks:



3M ECC 1200 (extra cut compound) will finish down better then PG and has a good working time.



Strada 1000- aka rocks in a bottle or liquid sandpaper. I have used this one a few times when the others just won't cut it. Even with the edge black wool, I can work this a long time at 2000. It is very well lubed. But it will hammer the surface. Following it with SIP and then a final polish works great.
 
gmblack3a said:
Very nice work Josh!



If I may suggest a few other compounds to try to remove sanding marks:



3M ECC 1200 (extra cut compound) will finish down better then PG and has a good working time.



Strada 1000- aka rocks in a bottle or liquid sandpaper. I have used this one a few times when the others just won't cut it. Even with the edge black wool, I can work this a long time at 2000. It is very well lubed. But it will hammer the surface. Following it with SIP and then a final polish works great.
Click to expand...





Thanks Bryan, I'll have to check these out, there's just too many huh?:hairpull:chuckle:



Josh
 
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