Zaino Z5 Pro vs. Zaino Z2 Pro - thoughts & images

wannafbody said:
after your 3 initial coats of Z5P/Z2P you need to allow it to cure some before using the Z8-I'd wait a day or apply your Z8 after your first wash. Some people use Z6 between coats but it isn't really required. Z6 or ISO wipedown before your first Z5P layer is a good idea to ensure a good bond.



I just updated my last post to include your suggestion - how does that look?



What about some of the questions I have in there?
 
There is probably no need to perform a Dawn wash if you plan on using the Groit paint prep. Just do a Z7 wash prior to the Groit step.





On a Porsche or any vehicle of this size, I would only mix-up 1/2 oz of Z5PRO and 2 drops of ZFX. This should be plenty for 2 very thin applications. Spritzing the applicator pad with Z6 during application really aids in applying very thin layers and efficient usage of sealant.



When applying the top coat of Z2PRO change your pad moistening solution to Z8 and apply again a very thin coat. Allow a little more drying time (~30-45 mins). I would not Z8 until at least 6 hours later especially sense the Z2PRO coats was not ZFX enabled. It is important to let the previously applied layers to evolve (cure and settle) before adding more to the system.



In reality your planned next re-application is not necessary or will augment any appreciable gains in protection or durability. A single application of Z8 on Sunday will boost the general appearance and add that finishing "POP" is all that will be needed because of the high quality of the finish on a Porsche from my experience.



Wash. I would clay as I washed vehicle using washing solution as lube

Polish - if needed but highly recommended to product maximum natural gloss and depth of finish.

Cleanse with Griot

Z6 wipedown (this step greatly helps in the application of sealant (next few steps))



Mixed 1/2 oz Z5PRO with 2 drops of ZFX

Apply with Z6 moistened applicator - THIN COATS

Allow to dry

Buff

Z6 wipedown - optional

Re-apply Z5PRO/ZFX with Z6 moistened applicator

Allow to dry

Buff

Z6 wipedown - optional but highly recommended at this point.



Apply Z2PRO with a Z8 moistened applicator

Allow to fully dry (may take longer because of ZFX not used)

Buff.



Stand back and admire your beautiful vehicle. :woot2:



Z8 next day



Finish!!!!! :getdown



Hope this helps. :wavey
 
blkZ28Conv said:
There is probably no need to perform a Dawn wash if you plan on using the Groit paint prep. Just do a Z7 wash prior to the Groit step.





On a Porsche or any vehicle of this size, I would only mix-up 1/2 oz of Z5PRO and 2 drops of ZFX. This should be plenty for 2 very thin applications. Spritzing the applicator pad with Z6 during application really aids in applying very thin layers and efficient usage of sealant.



When applying the top coat of Z2PRO change your pad moistening solution to Z8 and apply again a very thin coat. Allow a little more drying time (~30-45 mins). I would not Z8 until at least 6 hours later especially sense the Z2PRO coats was not ZFX enabled. It is important to let the previously applied layers to evolve (cure and settle) before adding more to the system.



In reality your planned next re-application is not necessary or will augment any appreciable gains in protection or durability. A single application of Z8 on Sunday will boost the general appearance and add that finishing "POP" is all that will be needed because of the high quality of the finish on a Porsche from my experience.



Wash. I would clay as I washed vehicle using washing solution as lube

Polish - if needed but highly recommended to product maximum natural gloss and depth of finish.

Cleanse with Griot

Z6 wipedown (this step greatly helps in the application of sealant (next few steps))



Mixed 1/2 oz Z5PRO with 2 drops of ZFX

Apply with Z6 moistened applicator - THIN COATS

Allow to dry

Buff

Z6 wipedown - optional

Re-apply Z5PRO/ZFX with Z6 moistened applicator

Allow to dry

Buff

Z6 wipedown - optional but highly recommended at this point.



Apply Z2PRO with a Z8 moistened applicator

Allow to fully dry (may take longer because of ZFX not used)

Buff.



Stand back and admire your beautiful vehicle. :woot2:



Z8 next day



Finish!!!!! :getdown



Hope this helps. :wavey



Yeah, this is exactly the kind of assistance I was looking for! I'll do another edit here in a minute with the latest revisions.



One questions - why shouldn't I use ZFX with the Z2 Pro coat? What's the added benefit of letting it cure longer without ZFX?



And you think that 2 Z5 and 1 Z2 is plenty of coats? (I'm all for doing less if I can still get the best results)



How about Z8, just one "coat"?
 
Hi Ron,

I always use ZFX, even for a single layer. The reason I stated the ZFX-less final coat for the day was to reflect your plan which was okay to go with a single top coat of ZFX-less Z2PRO. If you have access to syringes mix up 2-3cc (~1/8 oz) of Z2PRO with 1 drop of ZFX. This will be plenty for one coat.



The new PRO series of Z2 and Z5 are really quite potent and maximal gains are reached quite easily with 3 coats. It is necessary sometimes to apply as many as 6 coats of Z5PRO to completely fill/ visually hide very minor blemishes. A pre-test I use to predetermine how effective Z5PRO with be against a blemish is to do a oil-based glaze spot test. I apply a little glaze (i.e Imperial Hand Glaze or what glaze you have on hand) to a spot and see if the glaze will fill/visually hide the blemish. this test will give me an endpoint of blemish hiding and let's me decide if I can live with it. Also if this test fails to completely hide to my satisfaction the blemish, I know the blemish is too deep for several applications of Z5PRO and further polishing is required. This test should be performed outdoors under natural lighting because both glazes and Z5PRO function via filling and optically changing the way light interacts with the blemish. After using Z5PRO on a familiar vehicle (personal) this test becomes unnecessary because you will develope an eye for the limits of Z5PRO.



If the finish passes the glaze test. Re-clean the spot with IPA and start the fun and easy part of detailing - applying the LSP.



Z8 can be used as often as you please but each session should only consist of one application/day. It is perfectly okay to apply a coat of Z8 in the AM prior to driving and applying another coat that evening after using vehicle that day (make sure surface is clean and clear of dust -Cali duster). I prefer an evening quick Z8 session over an AM session. This gives me a chance to evaluation if any foreign matter (bird crap, water shots, etc) has attached or assaulted my finish. I sleep much better knowing nothing is eating away at my protection and eventually the finish.
 
Here we go again, here's my new revised plan:



NOTE: I have a metallic midnight blue (almost black) Porsche 911 cabriolet (so no top to finish), so let me know if I need to use different products or combos.



1. I will wash my car as usual with with Griots Car Wash



2. I'll clay as needed using Griots Clay as I like it more than Sonus & Zaino's. (I don't clay while washing because I have to wash in the sun and that will result in water spots)



3. I'll polish any defects out of the paint using Griots Machine Polish 3 (or 2 if there any bad spots). :buffing:



4. I prepare the paint with a coat of Griots Paint Prep which helps to remove wax & sealants.



5. I'll spray the car down with one coat of Z6 and wipe it off (in sections of course) using a blue Sonus MF towel.



6. I'll mix a HALF ounce of Z5 Pro with 2 drops of ZFX and apply a THIN layer to the whole car (as I would do with Klasse AIO & SG) using a Z6 moistend microfiber applicator (orange Sonus ones). :waxing:



7. I'll park the car out in the dry sun to help it bake on a bit as Sal did in Arizona. I'll be working on a limited timetable, so I simply can't wait more than an hour between coats. It should be in the 70's or maybe 80's when I'm doing this with 100% sunshine (no clouds).



8. I'll buff off the first coat in the garage and then repeat steps 5 & 6. I'll repeat step 7 afterwards. My goal is 2 coats of Z5 Pro.



9. I'll REPEAT step 5 (Z6), then I'll use straight Z2 Pro WITHOUT ZFX and apply a THIN layer to the whole car using a Z8 moistend microfiber applicator for one final coat. :waxing:



10. On Monday after the last coat of Z2 Pro has had 24 hours to set up, I'll finish with a SINGLE coat of Z8 (???) when I do a full car wipe down using a Sonus Blue MF towel.



Please let me know what I'm missing or how I should change my plans for my car. I'm going to print our the final version and use it as my cookbook when I do my car next weekend.



Steps 1 - 4 will take ALL of next Saturday for me (just car washes take me 3 hours - I'm too anal about dirt).



I'll have roughly 6 hours to do steps 5 - 9 on Sunday. I'm hoping I can get it all done that day, and just have #10 to do on Monday.



If by some miracle I should finish early on Saturday, I might prep my windows and wheels and do those in advance of the Sunday marathon.
 
blkZ28Conv said:
Hi Ron,

I always use ZFX, even for a single layer. The reason I stated the ZFX-less final coat for the day was to reflect your plan which was okay to go with a single top coat of ZFX-less Z2PRO. If you have access to syringes mix up 2-3cc (~1/8 oz) of Z2PRO with 1 drop of ZFX. This will be plenty for one coat.



The new PRO series of Z2 and Z5 are really quite potent and maximal gains are reached quite easily with 3 coats. It is necessary sometimes to apply as many as 6 coats of Z5PRO to completely fill/ visually hide very minor blemishes. A pre-test I use to predetermine how effective Z5PRO with be against a blemish is to do a oil-based glaze spot test. I apply a little glaze (i.e Imperial Hand Glaze or what glaze you have on hand) to a spot and see if the glaze will fill/visually hide the blemish. If it fails, I know the blemish is too deep for several applications of Z5PRO and further polishing is required. This test should be performed outdoors under natural lighting because both glazes and Z5PRO function via filling and optically changing the way light interacts with the blemish. After using Z5PRO on a familiar vehicle (personal) this test becomes unnecessary because you will develope an eye for the limits of Z5PRO.



If the finish passes the glaze test. Re-clean the spot with IPA and start the fun and easy part of detailing - applying the LSP.



Z8 can be used as often as you please but each session should only consist of one application/day.



Great info - thanks!



I only have oral syringes that I used with my kids to dispense medicine (I have tons of them). They have ML and tablespoon measurements. How many ML's does that translate to? (about 10?)



So the goal is to Z5 Pro is to use it like a glaze until no flaws can be seen - that's a useful tidbit that I don't think anyone has mentioned yet.



Thanks for the tip about testing if I'm ready Z5 and the note about only one coat of Z8 per day. Great stuff!
 
Ron,



Steps 5-9 should take you no longer than 2-3 hrs max. The hard part and most time comsuming part is your Prep on Saturday. Focus and get yourself up for Saturday's prep. Sunday will be a breeze and step #10 Monday Z8 session should only take 15-20 mins max.
 
All of this information is terrific. I have been using Zaino products for about 2 years now but never to this detail. I now know much more about how to apply and thoroughly use these products, which I love.



Any suggestions on what combination of z5/z2 to polish an Aspen White car? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
ronmart said:
Great info - thanks!



I only have oral syringes that I used with my kids to dispense medicine (I have tons of them). They have ML and tablespoon measurements. How many ML's does that translate to? (about 10?)



So the goal is to Z5 Pro is to use it like a glaze until no flaws can be seen - that's a useful tidbit that I don't think anyone has mentioned yet.



Thanks for the tip about testing if I'm ready Z5 and the note about only one coat of Z8 per day. Great stuff!



No problem.



1 tablespoon (tbsp) = 15 milliliter (ml)



Using 1/3 of the "measured" volume of your syringe will give you 3 ml



1ml = 1cc



2-3 ml will be plently for one coats on your topless Porsche. :D
 
Nis01 said:
All of this information is terrific. I have been using Zaino products for about 2 years now but never to this detail. I now know much more about how to apply and thoroughly use these products, which I love.



Any suggestions on what combination of z5/z2 to polish an Aspen White car? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.



On my Olympic white (non-metallic pastel) Escalade I love 2 coats of Z2PRO over an equal number of Z5PRO after prepping surface. I love the added "POP" an additional coat of Z2PRO adds to light colors.
 
Ron,



On all my Zaino coats, I use ZFX with each and every time I apply. It just adds in a perfect coating/bonding and aid in cure times.



After 3 coats of Z5 with ZFX, let it sit (meaning do not add another coat) for one day (yes drive, but if you get debris, wash with Z7, a quick Z6 wipe) then I coat with Z2-Pro with ZFX for my remaining coats. Z6 or Z8 between each coat.



Maintain with Z6. Z8 should be used for those days you want the WOW factor!



Once your done, you'll love how easy it now is to maintain! Don't forget the wheels!!



Sorry I didn't get back quicker, I'm rolling out a new Target store (network and all) for a 5 week period.



Enjoy your Zaino! :2thumbs:



Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Ron,



On all my Zaino coats, I use ZFX with each and every time I apply. It just adds in a perfect coating/bonding and aid in cure times.



After 3 coats of Z5 with ZFX, let it sit (meaning do not add another coat) for one day (yes drive, but if you get debris, wash with Z7, a quick Z6 wipe) then I coat with Z2-Pro with ZFX for my remaining coats. Z6 or Z8 between each coat.



Maintain with Z6. Z8 should be used for those days you want the WOW factor!



Once your done, you'll love how easy it now is to maintain! Don't forget the wheels!!



Sorry I didn't get back quicker, I'm rolling out a new Target store (network and all) for a 5 week period.



Enjoy your Zaino! :2thumbs:



Deanski



Thanks Deanski! I just can't do the 3 day detail thing. I need to be done in 2 days and my prep work on Saturday will take me the full day. I can do a Z8 on Monday only because I know I can find 30 minutes (at most) that day. I'll leave the car parked too so I can finish it up without having to re-wash it.



I know you hate Rejex, but it has been doing a good job for me on the wheels. If I feel inspired, I might do Zaino on it but I'm more likely to try the windows before I do that.
 
Okay, I just spent 15 minutes talking to Sal Zaino about my plan below and he had a lot of interesting things to say (great guy). Based on that conversation, here's my final plan:



NOTE: I have a metallic midnight blue (almost black) Porsche 911 cabriolet (so no top to finish), so let me know if I need to use different products or combos.



1. I will wash my car as usual with with Griots Car Wash (although Sal likes his better :D ).



2. I'll clay as needed using Griots Clay as I like it more than Sonus & Zaino's. (I don't clay while washing because I have to wash in the sun and that will result in water spots)



3. I'll polish any defects out of the paint using Griots Machine Polish 3 (or 2 if there any bad spots). :buffing:



4. I prepare the paint with a coat of Griots Paint Prep which helps to remove wax & sealants. Sal recommends washing again at this step, but he didn't seem very familiar with Paint Prep, so I don't believe re-washing is necessary.



5. I'll spray the car down with one coat of Z6 and wipe it off (in sections of course) using a blue Sonus MF towel.



6. I'll mix a HALF ounce of Z5 Pro with 2 drops of ZFX and apply a THIN layer to the whole car (as I would do with Klasse AIO & SG) using a Z6 moistend microfiber applicator (orange Sonus ones). :waxing:



7. Based on Sal's comments, by the time I'm done applying to the whole car it should be ready to remove. I'll test it first, but it sounds a lot like the dry time of Klasse AIO (an on / off product).



8. I'll buff off the first coat in the garage and then repeat steps 5 & 6. I'll repeat step 7 afterwards. Sal says 2 coats of Z5 Pro is plenty. Anymore is just wasting the product.



9. I'll REPEAT step 5 (Z6), then I'll use straight Z2 Pro WITHOUT ZFX and apply a THIN layer to the whole car using a Z6 moistend microfiber applicator for one final coat. :waxing: (NOTE: Sal says your final coat doesn't need ZFX. You can use it, but it isn't required NOR is a long cure time required - wipe on and wipe off is sufficent).



10. According to Sal, immediately after the last coat of Z2 Pro has been removed, I'll ]finish with a SINGLE coat of Z8 when I do a full car wipe down using a Sonus Blue MF towel.



Sal claims that steps 5 - 10 could be done in as little as 45 minutes with the best possible results that the product will offer. I don't think I move that fast, but I guess the real point is that all of these claims about long cure times don't offer any benefit (according to Sal).



If I have the engergy, I might prep my windows and wheels and do those in advance of the Sunday marathon.



Other interesting notes from my conversation with Sal:



  • Sal claims that Werkerstat and Klasse products are made by the same supplier so they are the same product. Both are VOC compliant which he claims translates into Klasse AIO not being as good now as it used to be before it was VOC compliant. He's not a fan of Klasse, but I love the stuff personally.
  • He stated clearly that you SHOULD NOT use Z8 moistened applicators, but rather use Z6. He made it sound like that it was a waste, but he was pretty clear that I shouldn't do that.
  • He seemed to think there is no harm in putting some Z8 in with your Z5 or Z2. He doesn't feel like he can notice any benefit, but he said it doesn't hurt and if someone can see a benefit then sure go for it.
  • He stated the main benefit of ZFX is to allow immediate curing. The reduced dry time is a side effect, but not the purpose of ZFX. He said that it is nonsense to think that using Z2 Pro or Z5 Pro with ZFX requires long cure times - it simply doesn't.
  • Sal said there's no advantage to NOT using ZFX - he claims it is required if you are going to do multiple coats in the same day, but it isn't required on the last coat (but you can still use it if you like).
  • If you screw up with any Zaino product (Z2, Z5, Z8, etc...) then you should simply get a wet towel and wipe it off. In the case of Z2 & Z5 with ZFX, you don't need to re-apply because the bottom layer would have bonded, so you are good to go for your next step.



If you have ANY questions about these claims, I encourage you to send mail to Sal ([email protected]) and then call him at 732-833-8800 to discuss it (he'll tell you to call him in e-mail).
 
ronmart said:
Thanks Deanski! I just can't do the 3 day detail thing. I need to be done in 2 days and my prep work on Saturday will take me the full day. I can do a Z8 on Monday only because I know I can find 30 minutes (at most) that day. I'll leave the car parked too so I can finish it up without having to re-wash it.



I know you hate Rejex, but it has been doing a good job for me on the wheels. If I feel inspired, I might do Zaino on it but I'm more likely to try the windows before I do that.





Not that I hate Rejex, it just looks like very early Zaino, plastic looking in nature. Some like the look. It does hold up well. If you have it on the wheels now, ah why bother adding Zaino to the wheel at this point. Once it's worn off, then give it a try.



The Z8 should take you very little time (a QD) and will enhance the look.



Prep is the key no matter if it's Zaino, wax, etc. I always take my time in getting the finish as perfect and glossy by itself so it looks like a paino finish.



Have a good time!! :waxing:



Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Not that I hate Rejex, it just looks like very early Zaino, plastic looking in nature. Some like the look. It does hold up well. If you have it on the wheels now, ah why bother adding Zaino to the wheel at this point. Once it's worn off, then give it a try.



The Z8 should take you very little time (a QD) and will enhance the look.



Prep is the key no matter if it's Zaino, wax, etc. I always take my time in getting the finish as perfect and glossy by itself so it looks like a paino finish.



Have a good time!! :waxing:



Deanski



Yep, thanks. I'm looking forward to it!



I've got a couple friends with killer cameras and supposidly some decent photography skills who have volunteered to photograph the car when I'm done on some sites around my town. Hopefully we'll get some sweet shots.
 
If Rejex is similar to Glare then it's simply an average product. I used up my remaining Glare sample on our work truck. First rain it beaded like crazy. The vehicle has only been washed 1 or 2 times in about 3 months. When I washed it saturday the water didn't bead or sheet at all. Dirt was hard to remove and IMO even if something was on the surface it certainly didn't act like it did after application. Maybe more frequent washing might have helped but I wouldn't spend my $$$ on Rejex or Glare.
 
wannafbody said:
If Rejex is similar to Glare then it's simply an average product. I used up my remaining Glare sample on our work truck. First rain it beaded like crazy. The vehicle has only been washed 1 or 2 times in about 3 months. When I washed it saturday the water didn't bead or sheet at all. Dirt was hard to remove and IMO even if something was on the surface it certainly didn't act like it did after application. Maybe more frequent washing might have helped but I wouldn't spend my $$$ on Rejex or Glare.



Durability isn't the issue with Rejex. It is actually quite durable and very slick. The issue with it is that it has more of a plastic wrap appearance, which you can't really noticed on silver wheels.



I've never heard of Glare, so I don't know why you would compare it to Rejex as the two companies don't appear to have any affiliation with each other. Rejex also claims to have a patent on their product and that they developed it in house for the military to use on Jet's and Helicopters. Rejex is a very popular product for planes.
 
Rejex has to be applied to a clean, wax-free finish. That's where you had the failure with Rejex. Same with Zaino and most other poly sealants. If the finish is not completly free from wax or oils (most polishes use oils as an agent to suspend the abrasives) oils can be naptha, natural oils, or synthetic depending on polish. Also, glaze uses fillers (clay mostly) to hide minor marring. For any sealant to attach and cure, the finish MUST be free of these things, then it will last a good long time.



There are quite a few Japanese sealants using high amounts of "glass fiber" technology which is not new, but not something most pro's would use. You can see some at Egalewax.com and Soft99 for Japan as well.



Ron,



Can't wait to see the pics!! :clap:



Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Ron,



Can't wait to see the pics!! :clap:



Deanski



Hopefully on Sunday. I've got a couple guys who volunteered to bring their cool cameras and take some good pics.



I've got my work cut out for me. I took the car to the track today (see below) and it rained. The car is now closer to dusty gray than midnight blue and the wheels are just a mess. I had black rubber clag stuck all over the wheels and I don't even want to know what my wheel wells look like (they were pristine before today).
 

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