Zaino Missing Big Boat

I'm not sure this is the best place to post this question, but I've read the entire thread and it seems to have morphed into a broader discussion on Zaino and I don't think this question merits a new thread.



For years I have been using clay bar, P21S cleaner, 3M glaze, and P21S wax. More recently, I've been using NXT rather than P21S. I'm quite happy with this combination, but I've hear nothing but good about Zaino and have been thinking about switching for some time. I'm hoping someone can tell me roughly how Zaino will look compared to the combination described. This will be on a red car with single stage paint. I would probably get Zainos "ultimate kit" plus Z3 for single stage. Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
peterp said:
I'm not sure this is the best place to post this question, but I've read the entire thread and it seems to have morphed into a broader discussion on Zaino and I don't think this question merits a new thread.



For years I have been using clay bar, P21S cleaner, 3M glaze, and P21S wax. More recently, I've been using NXT rather than P21S. I'm quite happy with this combination, but I've hear nothing but good about Zaino and have been thinking about switching for some time. I'm hoping someone can tell me roughly how Zaino will look compared to the combination described. This will be on a red car with single stage paint. I would probably get Zainos "ultimate kit" plus Z3 for single stage. Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
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I think Z2pro has a similar look to NXT but the look doesn't wash away after a couple washes. Wait until the CS is available to place your order. If you like NXT you'll love Zaino.
 
peterp said:
For years I have been using clay bar, P21S cleaner, 3M glaze, and P21S wax. More recently, I've been using NXT rather than P21S. I'm quite happy with this combination, but I've hear nothing but good about Zaino and have been thinking about switching for some time. I'm hoping someone can tell me roughly how Zaino will look compared to the combination described. This will be on a red car with single stage paint. I would probably get Zainos "ultimate kit" plus Z3 for single stage. Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
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Personally, I prefer carnaubas on single stage (and I am assuming non-metallic) red paint. As much as I love Werkstatt (an acrylic sealant), it has too much of a wet glass look on red. Same with Z2 Pro, UPP, EX-P and even P21S, since they all have a clear wet shine. I haven't used Z5 Pro though and many who have say it is closer to a carnauba look on dark colors than Z2 Pro is and the pictures I have seen bear this out.



What specifically do you like/dislike about your current combination? What 'look' are you after? If you are after a deep, liquid shine, I'd recommend using Optimum Poli-Seal and topping with Meguiars #26 or Clearkote's Carnauba Moose. If you want a clear, reflective shine plus excellent durability, then Zaino or Werkstatt would probably be more to your liking.
 
This will be the first time working with non-metallic single stage -- all my prior experience has been with metallics/clearcoat in various colors (light blue, dark blue, burgundy). My current combo leaves the paint unbelievably smooth and I'm happy with it. The advantage I've seen with NXT vs. P21S is better color -- it's really almost amazing what it does with metallics, but I don't know how it will work with solid red. The downside of NXT is durability (though the car is light use and garaged so this less of a concern). I think another downside should be lack of depth with comparison to P21S, but I haven't really noticed that. If Zaino isn't clearly better, I may stick with what I have. The nicest red paint I've seen was at a car show and the owner had used Zaino, so this is part of what is fueling my interest on top of just hearing generally great things about it.
 
peterp said:
This will be the first time working with non-metallic single stage -- all my prior experience has been with metallics/clearcoat in various colors (light blue, dark blue, burgundy). My current combo leaves the paint unbelievably smooth and I'm happy with it. The advantage I've seen with NXT vs. P21S is better color -- it's really almost amazing what it does with metallics, but I don't know how it will work with solid red. The downside of NXT is durability (though the car is light use and garaged so this less of a concern). I think another downside should be lack of depth with comparison to P21S, but I haven't really noticed that. If Zaino isn't clearly better, I may stick with what I have. The nicest red paint I've seen was at a car show and the owner had used Zaino, so this is part of what is fueling my interest on top of just hearing generally great things about it.
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I cycle pictures in and out of photobucket all of the time, and can't find any 'single' stage reds at the moment. The closest that I can find is a 1991 Acura NSX that my buddy picked up a few years ago. It has over 80K on the clock, and the previous owner ran a construction business and didn't take very good care of his fine red beast. The NSX has a tinted clear, which in many ways reacts like a SS paint + this paint is over 15 years old.



The only before shot that I can find (but you can see how dull the paint is)



NSX-Before.jpg




This is the paint topped with Zaino. (I prepped the living he** out of the paint -just so you don't think that I slapped a coat of Zaino on top).



100_1068.jpg




100_1071.jpg




100_1067.jpg
 
Thanks for the feedback -- If I end up staying with NXT, I will try the #26 as a topcoat. I used to use a Meg wax a long time ago that came in a yellow can -- I think it was #19?, but I can't find that listed so I'm probably wrong. I switched to P21S over some concern that the Meg "yellowed" the color a bit -- carnubas are reported to yellow over time and this one started out yellow was my rationale -- but I did actually see some yellowing over time on metallic blue. I assume this isn't an issue with #26.



The NSX restoration looks unbelievable. I don't know which way I'll go yet -- seems like I can't really go wrong with Zaino's or NXT/#26.
 
I've never had an issue with a carnauba yellowing and I used #26 exclusively the first 8 years I detailed professionally.



In fact, 7 of the 10 cars on the back cover of the Guru Report Wax Test are my customer's cars and they all have #26 on them.
 
Scottwax said:
I've never had an issue with a carnauba yellowing and I used #26 exclusively the first 8 years I detailed professionally.



In fact, 7 of the 10 cars on the back cover of the Guru Report Wax Test are my customer's cars and they all have #26 on them.
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So when 26 darkens paint does it add some black or gray tinge? How do you know it doesn't tilt the spectrum a bit towards yellow? Personally I've compared some products on white and IMO some products produce a slight yellow tinge compared to others. Is it actually yellow-maybe not-it could just be that the other product produced a brighter, more reflective white.
 
wannafbody said:
So when 26 darkens paint does it add some black or gray tinge? How do you know it doesn't tilt the spectrum a bit towards yellow? Personally I've compared some products on white and IMO some products produce a slight yellow tinge compared to others. Is it actually yellow-maybe not-it could just be that the other product produced a brighter, more reflective white.
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I don't think it actually darkens the paint, the added depth makes it appear darker. Meguiars #16 is blue and it doesn't leave a blue tinge.
 
Scottwax said:
I don't think it actually darkens the paint, the added depth makes it appear darker. Meguiars #16 is blue and it doesn't leave a blue tinge.
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I'd suggest trying half a hood with #26 and S100 and compare them side by side. I suspect that you'd see a difference between the two. Since light is reflected back to the eye from the paint surface any product that is aplied to the paint surface that is not 100% optically clear will darken the color. Sometimes not enough to be noticed but in some cases definitely enough to be noticed.
 
wannafbody said:
Since light is reflected back to the eye from the paint surface any product that is aplied to the paint surface that is not 100% optically clear will darken the color.
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Can you point me to the scientific basis for this statement? All this "optically clear" terminology is bandied about, but I have been unable to find any scientific basis or discussion about this...smells to me like marketing hyperbole. Can you tell me whether this effect is a thin-film interference (refraction) or a diffraction phenomenon?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Can you point me to the scientific basis for this statement? All this "optically clear" terminology is bandied about, but I have been unable to find any scientific basis or discussion about this...smells to me like marketing hyperbole. Can you tell me whether this effect is a thin-film interference (refraction) or a diffraction phenomenon?
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If he did explain it, how would you respond?



I'm not taking sides here, just wondering why this post has taken this direction??
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Can you point me to the scientific basis for this statement? All this "optically clear" terminology is bandied about, but I have been unable to find any scientific basis or discussion about this...smells to me like marketing hyperbole. Can you tell me whether this effect is a thin-film interference (refraction) or a diffraction phenomenon?
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It is possible that refractive or diffractionary differences between products could give different appearances as well. Regardless whatever is applied to the paint changes the way that light is reflected back to the eye thus giving the perception of change. If a product didn't change the appearance (by darkening or adding gloss) no one would bother to apply car waxes.
 
How would I respond? It depends on what the answer is. I'd like to know where this "optically clear" term came from, it seems to be a term isolated to car wax marketing. Or are you accusing me of being part of an anti-Zaino conspiracy? Or are you concerned about the thread going off-topic? I'll throw the question up in a new thread.
 
wannafbody said:
I'd suggest trying half a hood with #26 and S100 and compare them side by side. I suspect that you'd see a difference between the two. Since light is reflected back to the eye from the paint surface any product that is aplied to the paint surface that is not 100% optically clear will darken the color. Sometimes not enough to be noticed but in some cases definitely enough to be noticed.
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Good, I want that from #26. I don't want 'optically clear' on medium to dark non-metallic paint, I want liquid depth. That is why I don't use S100 anymore. It is too clear and bright on reds, blacks, etc for my taste. That is why if I use a liquid carnauba I used Carnauba Moose because I think it is even better than #26 at making the paint look deeper and therefore, darker.
 
I apologize for leading this thread astray and I didn't mean to open a can of worms on coloring. My experience with Meguiars -- and this was a long time ago and I'm not sure it is the same wax (but it was yellow) -- was that it looked fine on initial application, but over a long period of time it looked discolored. My light metallic blue car took on more of a dirty aqua tint. I attributed this to yellowing that I had read was a characteristic of all carnubas, so that lead me to P21S based upon word of mouth about the product and my own personal assumption that maybe Meg starting out yellow didn't help. I did not see that problem with P21S, but it's possible I didn't wait long enough because I guess all carnubas eventually yellow. So the issue I saw on undesired coloring didn't have to due with being optically clear because it looked fine on initial application, but just yellowing over time which did not look good.



Back to the topic, I think I will give Zainos a try -- it sounds like it should be at least comparable to what I used before and I've been thinking about trying it long enough that I might as well go that route. Thanks for the feedback and apologies for the topic diversion.
 
Peterp,

If you are seeking a product that will appear the same in terms of color hue for the life of its protection and years down the road with proper periodic paint (clearcoat) cleansing, Zaino is an excellent choice.
 
Scottwax said:
Good, I want that from #26. I don't want 'optically clear' on medium to dark non-metallic paint, I want liquid depth. That is why I don't use S100 anymore. It is too clear and bright on reds, blacks, etc for my taste. That is why if I use a liquid carnauba I used Carnauba Moose because I think it is even better than #26 at making the paint look deeper and therefore, darker.
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Scott- I hope you didn't misinterpret my posts. #26 is a great looking product on certain colors-especially reds and blacks. It can look a bit funky on some lighter colors due to it's darkening charactaristics.
 
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