Wristwatch Question - Quartz vs. Mechanical

Dave N

My PC goes to 7...
I'm in the market for a new wristwatch and am looking specifically at Citizen and Seiko dive watches. Accuracy is very important to me, so I was thinking I would for sure get a quartz movement. But Seiko has several nice mechanical movement dive watches, and I'm wondering if anyone can speak to how accurate these are. I'm wanting to spend $200 or less, and Seiko has the "Black Monster" that everyone seems to rave about. The Citizen I'm looking at is the Citizen Promaster Dive.



There are a few other brands of mechanical dive watches that I've seen out there, but I'm a little leery of the accuracy. I'm wanting a watch that will be accurate to the minute from day to day. If I had to reset it once per week that would be OK, but I wouldn't want it to be off by more than a minute in a week. Is this possible with a $100-200 watch?
 
That Seiko is real sharp! Here is a wonderful website that you'll like pertaining to the Seiko. It is a slightly older model of that one. I think you'll enjoy it:



http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/7s26/index.html



Automatics are very reliable, especially modern ones (many watches are automatic). I don't anticipate you having an issue. I would estimate it can hold a charge for about 36 hours or so before you experience variances because the rotor is not moving and lessens the energy sent to the spring. But you'll wear it daily so there is no issue.



My 40 year old Rolex is an automatic and keeps perfect time (although more expensive than a Seiko). Many dive watches are automatics like the Omegas.



I collect watches. I have a 1950's US military issued Bulova (w/ hack setting) that pilots wore in combat and it keeps PERFECT time down to the SECOND when I compare to my atomic clock! I wind it daily. It's not an automatic but I am amazed at the accuracy.
 
Thanks for the link -- those close-up shots of the Seiko make it look awesome! I'd really love to buy one of the Seiko automatic dive watches, but I'm just not sure that the automatic movement would work for me. I wear my watch every day during the week, but sometimes I don't wear it either day on the weekend. If the Monster was windable I'd buy one, but I think I'd better stick with a quartz. I saw watch winders on some of the watch websites, but I'm not into it enough to mess with one of these.
 
Much as I prefer mechanicals (had my Rolex over 25 years), I think you'll get much better accuracy (at least in that price range) with a quartz.



Spilchy- Heh heh, I sure wish *my* mechanical watches kept the sort of time that yours do! Must be your family's chrono-karma ;)
 
Accumulator - I've found an excellent watchmaker / restorer in my area that does fantastic work. A bit pricey, but well worth it. He just overhauled an Omega that my father recently gave me. He bought at the airport in Amsterdam in 1966.



DavidN, if you wind up settling on a quartz, I recommend you check out the quartz Seiko dive watches. There are plenty in your price range with the rubber strap. If you want a stainless steel strap, check out Bulova Accutrons at overstock.com.
 
I checked out some local merchants today and found that the stainless dive watches are really, really HEAVY! I can't imagine what that Black Monster must feel like on your wrist. Anyway, I found that titanium was more to my liking and Bergner's had a Citizen Eco-Drive 180 on clearance for 50% off. It's not quite as utilitarian looking as I wanted, but the price was right and it has a nice titanium band. About the only thing I don't care for is the little magnifier over the date, but that's not a big deal really. It was priced $5 lower than Amazon , so I'm happy!

watch.jpg




BTW, do either of you guys know anything about Prague watches? Overstock has a killer deal on an automatic. Retails for $395, but priced at $55.99 This almost makes me want to buy it just for the heck of it.

http://www.overstock.com/?page=proframe&prod_id=1776816
 
If I had to reset it once per week that would be OK, but I wouldn't want it to be off by more than a minute in a week. Is this possible with a $100-200 watch?



I don't think any current watch would have a problem meeting that criteria. My five year old Casio cheapy gains less than one minute per month so the much better products you're looking at will be more accurate.
 
Dave N- Sounds like you found just the right watch for you :xyxthumbs



Spilchy- It's good to have a skilled watchmaker who's local. Last time I was ticked off at the Sub I had them send it back to Rolex...gone forever and, sigh, same as always when I finally got it back. I guess it's sorta like my keeper-cars that are all in hopeless cosmetic condition :( I find something that I like too much to ever replace but I get a terrible individual specimen that can't be brought up to snuff. There's some lesson there but I doubt I'm really learning it ;)
 
DaveN, congrats on the new watch! Yeah, those chunky stainless watches and chronographs weigh a ton. I have a permanent tiny bruise on the top of my wrist where the huge, chunky crown from my Rolex has dug into it over many, many years. Hopefully you have a saphire crystal which won't scratch. If not, I polish my crystals with a little Autoglym glass polish - works like a champ! ENJOY IT!



Accumulator, my local hole in the wall, old time jeweler who advertises watch repair (mostly bands, batteries, case polishing, etc...) sends out his larger repairs to one guy who works on the side for extra cash. This guy is a certified Rolex technician, works for Rolex as a technical writer for their repair department and teaches classes at Rolex workshops for Rolex technicians when it comes time to learning about new movements. Apparantly he's highly skilled. My Submariner needs a serious overhaul and is showing rust under the bezel. So I'll let him have a try at it since taking it into NY City for an overhaul cost me $650.00 the last time (10 years ago). I'm sure he's much cheaper.



Some watches, once you crack them open, just never seem to return back to the way there were. I've got a rare Elgin from 1928 which was completely restored, but after I wind it, I need to shake it gently to "unstick" it so it will begin to tick. Each of my watches have their idiosyncracies which affect their time keeping ability. Since I don't wear them daily, it doesn't bother me too much.
 
ZaneO- Yeah, TAG Hauers (sp? I know that's wrong :o ) are good (sigh..wish I could get my old pre-TAG one fixed somewhere).



Spilchy- *Rust* on the Sub? Heh heh, and I thought that I abuse mine!



And yeah, it *does* sound like that guy is "highly skilled" ;)
 
Accumulator said:
ZaneO- Yeah, TAG Hauers (sp? I know that's wrong :o ) are good (sigh..wish I could get my old pre-TAG one fixed somewhere).



Spilchy- *Rust* on the Sub? Heh heh, and I thought that I abuse mine!



And yeah, it *does* sound like that guy is "highly skilled" ;)



Accumulator - What's worng with the watch you need fixed? Give me as much info as possible and I'll see if my dad would be able to fix it (He's a jeweler - 3rd generation). If you give me the make and model number and as thorough a description as possible as to what the problem is, he may be able to guide you as to what needs to be done.



As for Rolex's, they are hit or miss. Mine is constantly off but I notice it more because I need precise time to catch my trains! If you have the rare Rolex that keeps accurate time, I wouldn't touch it! More often than not, the "Sending it to the manufacturer" is just a ploy for them to overcharge for something that a regular watch maker can do for half the price!



Typically, Rolex's are consistent so if they lose a minute or 2 per week, they will only lose that per week. Unfortunately, that minute determines if I need to do an all out sprint or leisurely jog to cacth the train! LOL
 
Diesel1- I'll dig out that old watch and see what's up with it..I inherited it from my dad, who reluctantly replaced it when he was told it couldn't be repaired (at any price- parts availability IIRC). I don't know just *what's wrong with it but for him to replace it it must've been something pretty major; it was only the second watch he owned in his life and he was a pretty old guy when he replaced it.



Yeah, my Rolex is just one of those that isn't too accurate, in that minute/two per week range. Not a huge deal now that I'm retired; I wear it so little it's constantly running down so I end up resetting it anyhow. But when I *do* wear it, it never quits (even the time I broke the crystal and got autopaint in it :o wore it like that for a long time with no problems) and I'm just a sucker for that thing given my history with it. My jeweler, who does give me great service, sent it to Rolex after admitting that his guy just can't get it to run as accurately as we both felt it oughta. But hey, if it was all about accuracy I'd still wear a quartz watch.
 
I have a couple more questions about watches...



1) Are there any automatics that can also be wound with the crown?

2) If yes, then how the heck do you find out?



It seems that this information isn't on the "amazon" type websites, or even the manufacturer's websites for that matter. I'm mainly taking about Citizen and Seiko.
 
Dave N said:
I have a couple more questions about watches...



1) Are there any automatics that can also be wound with the crown?

2) If yes, then how the heck do you find out?



It seems that this information isn't on the "amazon" type websites, or even the manufacturer's websites for that matter. I'm mainly taking about Citizen and Seiko.



I'm not familiar with any that *can't* also be wound manually like that (not that I'm any kind of expert).
 
The Seiko 7S26 automatic movement that's in several of their automatic dive watches cannot be crown wound. I've seen some other Seikos in the "5" series that have a 7S36 automatic movement, but I have no idea if they can be wound or not.



After a few days, I'm not really satisfied with this Citizen I bought. It's a nice watch, but I was really looking for something more tactical looking, so I was still thinking about a dive watch. It seems that most are automatics. If I could wind it, that would be fine, but I don't want a watch that is motion-wound only.



I suppose I should find a watch forum to ask my questions, and all would be answered...
 
From my experience in working in my dad's store during the holidays, you will want a screw down crown if you are going to be doing any diving. Also, becareful when searching because water resistant and water proof are 2 totally different things! Even though they may say 100M on on the dial, it doesn't mean they are waterproof. I would bet any amount of money that most watches which indicate "WATER RESISTANT to 100M" would leak at 100FT down let alone 300ft.



Citizen makes a great divers watch that has a rubber band. I think it's called a Dive Master or something. It has so many settings you can go crazy! I believe it provides depth in addition to all the other features. It is very bulky, but it looks as though that's is what you are after.
 
Thanks for the info Diesel. Actually I won't be wearing this in the water (mainly because I ...err... never go into the water...). I work in a lab where I use the bezel timer nearly every day, so that's why I want a dive watch. Plus I think they look cool. I used to wear digital watches, but after buying a traser watch a few years ago I like analog better. I dropped my traser a couple of weeks ago and one of the tritium capsules came off the hour hand. I called about getting it repaired, but they said they would likely replace the hands and that would run $85. So I figured it was new watch time.
 
The only auto movement in this price range that can be wound and hacked is Miyoto(Citizen) movement found in Citizen auto divers and Invicta watches which can be found on eBay for $100 or less.



None of the Seiko 7S26 and 7S36 movements can be hacked or wound, even though they are great tough and reliable movements.



If you like more tatical dials for this price range, the only other true quality watches that are under valued and smart money are the Russian made Poljot brand that uses swiss movements comparable to Brietliegs for $200 or less. I love their aviator watches !

A true tactical watch is usually blackened out in the center needle hub.



http://www.poljot.com



aviator10_43_1.jpg


aviator_black_blu.jpg
 
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