What brand/weight oil do you run?

My BMW only gets Mobil1 15w-50. I live in the south, and its warm, so a thicker oil helps protect.



BTW this is my first post, and it's great site with tons of info. Like several other guys in here, I recieved a PC for Christmas, and I've already cleaned, polished, and waxed the "ol' lady's" car. Looks great thinks to the know-how that you guys have.



Josh F.
 
Blazern00b said:
Again, I would run AutoRX through the engine to clean any deposits up, and help to swell any seals that may have developed leaks. ....
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I have that in the Caddy, supposed to extend oil changing intervals if you do not put many miles on the car. :up
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I'll second that I have no gunk or burned film inside (looking at the top of the head thru the filler cap) after using Mobil 1 on those 2 cars for 110,000+ miles each. To be fair, I don't know that if I had used conventional oil it wouldn't be the same.
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When I had my Chevelle, I used Valvoline 10W-40 and changed it every 2500-3000 miles in the new Target Master 350 I put in. At around 50,000 miles, I changed the cam, heads, etc and started taking it out to the dragstrip every other weekend. At around 96,000 miles, I got another engine-it had around 15,000 miles on a .030 over rebuild, steel crank, etc and I gave my engine and $300 to get it. When we tore down my engine, even at 96,000 miles, it was absolutely spotless inside. All it needed was a clean-up hone...and this was all on early 80's dino oil.



Timely oil and filter changes are more important overall than simply using synthetic over conventional oils.
 
Does anyone know where I can find 5W20 for my Honda Accord V6? I can't find Mobil 1 in that weight anywhere!
 
shumax said:
Does anyone know where I can find 5W20 for my Honda Accord V6? I can't find Mobil 1 in that weight anywhere!
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Mobil doesn't make a 5w-20 in the Mobil 1 oil. They have a 0w-20 which I believe meets the Honda spec. It meets the Ford spec. Royal Purple is a goods quality oil, but more expensive and harder to find. For most people I would recommend Mobil 1 for a synthetic choice as it's much more readily available, a little cheaper and a good quality synthetic.:D
 
Scottwax said:
Timely oil and filter changes are more important overall than simply using synthetic over conventional oils.
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Amen. If I wanted to have my skin stripped off, I could suggest that timely washing and waxing are more important than what products are used.
 
Another recommendation for Auto-RX :up



I would also dare to say the way you drive is probably of great importance than a particular brand of oil. If you thrash the engine whilst it is still cold it is unlikely there is any oil which can save the engine.
 
I run Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic and a Toyota OEM Filter. I change the oil and filter every 5000 KM or every 3 months wichever comes first. Probably over kill but I'm like that with every thing on my car.
 
I would not use a 20 weight oil in my car unless it was designed for it . Most cars built in the last couple of years use a 5w20,however not all. That being said I use 0w30 Amsoil / 2000. It is expensive,however I keep my cars until the wheels fall off.
 
Scottwax said:
When I had my Chevelle, I used Valvoline 10W-40 and changed it every 2500-3000 miles in the new Target Master 350 I put in. At around 50,000 miles, I changed the cam, heads, etc and started taking it out to the dragstrip every other weekend. At around 96,000 miles, I got another engine-it had around 15,000 miles on a .030 over rebuild, steel crank, etc and I gave my engine and $300 to get it. When we tore down my engine, even at 96,000 miles, it was absolutely spotless inside. All it needed was a clean-up hone...and this was all on early 80's dino oil.



Timely oil and filter changes are more important overall than simply using synthetic over conventional oils.
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guess YMMV.

The car I was talking about was a 87 Celebrity 2.8 V6. One of the valve springs broke causing hell inside the engine. I really dont remember what oil my dad used to use but Im betting it was the cheap type (like Texaco dino sold at gas stops which is what he used on his mother's car). The car was driven like it was stolen, and it had heat problems. Still had when I bought it from them, but by then it was using Mobil 1. The oil in the valves, lifters and valve covers was practically solid. I had to scrape the burnt oil.



After the rebuild, the car was again driven like it was a race car. Not a single problem with the engine for 7 years. And as mentioned, the valve covers were as dirty as I had left them.
 
Honda suggests 5w20 in mine; however, I think that has something to do with an attempt to improve fuel economy. That said, I'm not confident enough to switch to something else----the suggestion is there for a reason.



Mobil has a product out there that is 0W20 that says it's ok for use in Honda and Ford vehicles. I'm going to talk with Honda and see what they think.



I put about 15k a year on our car and perform filter (OEM only) and drain intervals (Mobil 1 only) of about 5k. I've had oil analyzed at Blackstone on other cars and they suggest I go to 7,500-10,000. To me, it's not worth the chance---then again, they have scientific evidence that it's "ok." Call me a wimp, but I'll stick to 5k.



Thanks for all of your help!
 
I use Schaeffers Supreme 7000 5W-30 in my Honda Accord. I also used the Auto-RX treatment and add 6 oz of Lube Control every 5,000 miles when I change my oil.



IMHO, anyone concerned about which oil or what length of oil change interval should run a couple of Used Oil Analysis and then you would have a lot better idea of what is actually happening. Each car, driver, and environmental conditions vary and no one answer is correct.
 
Shumax, you can get Mobil 1 0W20 at Wallymart and Autozone.



If you go to the Mobil 1 site you can see a brief commentary about using this instead of the 5W20 in Hondas and Acuras...have a look.
 
I use Mobil 1 5w-30w with Mobil 1 Filter. For you guys that use Mobil 1, go to Pep Boys and buy their calendar. It has a coupon for Mobil 1, buy 3 and get 3 free. Also has a bunch of other good coupons. I bought 10 calendars for $1.00 each.
 
motorcraft 5W-20 semi-synthetic with motorcraft oil filter.

mainly because the oil was like $2 a quart and my Mach1 requires 7! :eek:



i want to switch to a full-synthetic but the maintenance tech guy at ford said ford doesn't recommend full-synthetic oils because it's too slippery for the main bearings, or something like that. anybody know whether this is true or not?
 
hirosh said:
i want to switch to a full-synthetic but the maintenance tech guy at ford said ford doesn't recommend full-synthetic oils because it's too slippery for the main bearings, or something like that. anybody know whether this is true or not?
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HEY! :D It's just oil--not snake oil! :D If it's more slippery, it's only marginally so. Synthetics are OIL, just a designer molecule rather than the more random mix of molecules found in conventional oil. It won't give you a larger penis, won't make your main bearings slide out of the engine into the front seat, it just will retain it's properties better than conv. oil, and can be made with a wider viscosity range than conventional oils without having to add VI (viscosity index) improvers.



Not picking on you Hirosh....just picking on the Ford mechanic...saying your motor oil is too slippery is like saying "that wax is too slick" :rolleyes: to an Autopian!
 
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