imported_motoo344
New member
Good idea, thanks.
What am I doing wrong? 7424
- Thread starter imported_motoo344
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
crc1 said:
I too *usually* associate that kind of pitting with repaints, but my M3 had it on both the repainted hood and the OE finish roof. There was a subtle diff between the two, but it was basically the same thing.
This reminds me of how such pitting sometimes appears after aggressive rotary work; it's not there initially, then you cut off however much clear and *zap* there it is and things look worse than when they were just swirled up!
And yeah, with repaints there's always the chance of crappy prep work resulting in flaws under the paint (got it on a few of my vehicles
). I didn't think this looked that way, though, and I'd expect it to be pretty obvious in person.Don't take the above the wrong way...I do kinda suspect that this might be some weirdly serious situation where things might not be as easily corrected as one might first think, and that a previous repaint might indeed be involved. I'd do a test-spot as per Mike's advice and see whether or not this can be fixed without a paint gun.
imported_motoo344
New member
Alright, so I spent some time today on the hood of our early 90's SL500. This car has some defects as it is 20 years old but it is in great condition for its age. Only minor swirling, some etching that I personally don't feel comfortable trying to correct.
Exact process...
Wash - ONR
Clay - XMT
Megs 105 on white 4" via pc
Megs 205 on white 4" via pc
I tapped off a small section as usual and began working. I worked the product in at speed 3 and turned it up to 6 once I had the product in the pad. I pulled the tape back after my first pass to check progress, I made a second pass and checked again. I followed a big hologram (not from me) from outside of my working area and it died where the tape was pulled up. So I noticed correction of that and most of the swirling. I noticed I had some light holograms but nothing major, so I continued with 205 on the white pad. I finished my passes with the 205. I just spend 30 minutes looking from every angle I could think of. I notice there is a shimmer of a hologram somewhere in my work area. For the life of me I can only find it when I am not looking for it lol. Any tips on how to get these very faint ones out? I seem to have made some solid progress.
Edit just went back out to do another two passes of 205. I then followed that with sealant. It looks pretty good, if I shine my brinkman on the part I didn't do you can tell right away it has swirls and holograms. I know the part I corrected isn't perfect but it is a very noticeable difference. I am gonna wait a week or so and try to do half the hood. Just trying to work in small steps.
Exact process...
Wash - ONR
Clay - XMT
Megs 105 on white 4" via pc
Megs 205 on white 4" via pc
I tapped off a small section as usual and began working. I worked the product in at speed 3 and turned it up to 6 once I had the product in the pad. I pulled the tape back after my first pass to check progress, I made a second pass and checked again. I followed a big hologram (not from me) from outside of my working area and it died where the tape was pulled up. So I noticed correction of that and most of the swirling. I noticed I had some light holograms but nothing major, so I continued with 205 on the white pad. I finished my passes with the 205. I just spend 30 minutes looking from every angle I could think of. I notice there is a shimmer of a hologram somewhere in my work area. For the life of me I can only find it when I am not looking for it lol. Any tips on how to get these very faint ones out? I seem to have made some solid progress.
Edit just went back out to do another two passes of 205. I then followed that with sealant. It looks pretty good, if I shine my brinkman on the part I didn't do you can tell right away it has swirls and holograms. I know the part I corrected isn't perfect but it is a very noticeable difference. I am gonna wait a week or so and try to do half the hood. Just trying to work in small steps.
Accumulator
Well-known member
motoo344- A couple of ideas come to mind.
I've gotten away from using M105 with white/polishing pads. I do the correction with M105 and orange cutting pads or something similar. I get to the point where all the issues that're gonna get resolved (meaning that some might never get fixed, like the pitting) have been replaced by the M105's micromarring. Only then will I switch to the M205.
At that point, I sometimes want a bit more cut than a white pad will give with the M205. I'd suggest a LC Tangerine pad, also in 4". If you want a better final finish, you can switch to a more gentle pad after everything is basically perfect.
Both M105 and M205 can leave "psuedo-holograms"; the M105 ones are usually micromarring from the abrasives (subsequent polishing with M205 should remove those), whereas the M205 ones are almost always from residual oils that are sometimes *really* hard to get off/out of the paint (IPA might work with multiple tries, but TOL's PrepWash is a lot better IME).
Sometimes M105 can leave some oils behind too, so some people like to IPA wipe after using that product as well just to make sure they're getting a true, clear view of how things really are.
This pseudo-hologram issue is my only peeve with the M105/M205 twins.
I've gotten away from using M105 with white/polishing pads. I do the correction with M105 and orange cutting pads or something similar. I get to the point where all the issues that're gonna get resolved (meaning that some might never get fixed, like the pitting) have been replaced by the M105's micromarring. Only then will I switch to the M205.
At that point, I sometimes want a bit more cut than a white pad will give with the M205. I'd suggest a LC Tangerine pad, also in 4". If you want a better final finish, you can switch to a more gentle pad after everything is basically perfect.
Both M105 and M205 can leave "psuedo-holograms"; the M105 ones are usually micromarring from the abrasives (subsequent polishing with M205 should remove those), whereas the M205 ones are almost always from residual oils that are sometimes *really* hard to get off/out of the paint (IPA might work with multiple tries, but TOL's PrepWash is a lot better IME).
Sometimes M105 can leave some oils behind too, so some people like to IPA wipe after using that product as well just to make sure they're getting a true, clear view of how things really are.
This pseudo-hologram issue is my only peeve with the M105/M205 twins.
imported_motoo344
New member
Thanks, I will have to get a tangerine pad. Would a green 4" pad work with the 205? It says 'light cutting.' I do feel like going from the orange with 105 to white with 205 is a big jump and it does not always remove everything left from the 105. Also, random, is 205 something you can just use by itself for very light swirl removal or is it always going to be something that should come after 105? Thanks again for all the help. I have been learning a lot.
Envious Eric
New member
kick the white and 105...orange only really, esp with the PC as you will end up with more micromarring that way
i would get megs yellow over the green pads. For some reason, green and ME have never really gotten along with the PC.
105 >205 is usually a pretty good combo, not needing an in between step, but rather a follow up final polish step like menzerna 85rd, or FPII for more gloss.
I wish you were closer so I could help you out! Sorry to hear of your troubles
i would get megs yellow over the green pads. For some reason, green and ME have never really gotten along with the PC.
105 >205 is usually a pretty good combo, not needing an in between step, but rather a follow up final polish step like menzerna 85rd, or FPII for more gloss.
I wish you were closer so I could help you out! Sorry to hear of your troubles
Accumulator
Well-known member
-AND-
toyotaguy said:
Heh heh, just goes to show how experiences can differ. I've done OK with the green Cyclo 4" pads and M205 on hard clear. But I'd still rather use the tangerine. Hey, might just be me as it seems like I've *always* done OK with those green Cyclo pads :nixweiss
mootoo344- You *might* have to do an intermediate step with M205/orange, depending on how the M105 leaves things. Sometimes that combo can do some moderate correction too, for times when M105 isn't called for. Never leaves all that wonderful a finish for me, but a quick follow up with a milder pad should fix that.
Yeah, I think you'd get mootoo344 squared away in no time.
imported_motoo344
New member
You guys are have been doing plenty by helping online. For right now 105/205 is going to be my go to as I don't really have that much money. I do have some Menzerna intensive polish, I think that is more abrasive than 205. Not sure if that can be used a middle ground.
Envious Eric
New member
thing is you shouldnt need it...
105 on orange, then 205 on orange, then 205 white, SHOULD be enough!
heck even try 105 orange, 105, white, 205 orange, 205 white...
Honestly, I would PM bufferbarry and offer to throw a few bucks his way to have him look at it for you real quick. If there is something wrong with the paint, he will be able to tell you whats up!
105 on orange, then 205 on orange, then 205 white, SHOULD be enough!
heck even try 105 orange, 105, white, 205 orange, 205 white...
Honestly, I would PM bufferbarry and offer to throw a few bucks his way to have him look at it for you real quick. If there is something wrong with the paint, he will be able to tell you whats up!
Accumulator
Well-known member
toyotaguy said:
Yeah, can't argue with that. I just often use the Green Cyclo instead of a white (actually, these days I use an orange Griot's on the Flex). On harder clear it lets me do less with the M205/LC orange. Eh...I'm just muddying the waters here and motoo344 doesn't need that
I'm just not a huge fan of the LC white for some reason :nixweissYeah, absolutely. That'd be worth the time/expense/whatever it takes :xyxthumbs
Hrm, I'm just going to tag onto this thread here.. What would be the most simple best setup for light paint correction with the PC? I'm looking for perhaps a basic 3 step process and am not trying to spend an arm and a leg like before.
Pad/product combination would be appreciated. Yes - I'm reading but there is so much to choose from these days.
Pad/product combination would be appreciated. Yes - I'm reading but there is so much to choose from these days.
imported_motoo344
New member
Seems like 105/205 is one of the best combos right now. A lot of the 'pro before and afters' have used it so it must be good. I am just still working on my technique.