Wet Diamond application questions...

J

JonB

New member
I saw a minor blemish probably from a pebble, in the paint on the side of the windshield about a week ago. I was going to have them touched up at BMW's body shop but when I looked closely I saw......RUST!!!!!!!!!!! :eek: There are 3 chips each about the size of a pin head all grouped together and one has RUST. I called the body shop and described this to the technician and he started talking about painting the whole strip. Can't this be touched up without spraying such a large piece???



H :(
 
The Eastwood Company makes a tool for just this purpose. Here is the Link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe It is a fiberglass tipped brush made for removing rust from paint chips. You should be able to remove the rust and then touch it up. The one that maybe a problem looks like it is bubbling a bit, that one may be a problem :(
 
That looks like there might be more rust than you can see. After the shop sands, and fills; that area is no longer so small. Let them paint the whole srrip.
 
I've gotten lots of little rock chips before and never had them rust, let alone in about a week or so!!



H
 
Thanks for the heads up. I am going to have a consultation tomorrow with the body shop. I have tried to do some chip touch ups without rust and its harder than it looks and sounds. I don't mind paying to have it fixed by a pro, but I would much rather have a small touch up than having the whole stip painted, so long as it looks just as good. The little bubble worries me a little and it may be more extensive a fix than I am hoping for. I'll let you know how it goes...



H
 
Take it to a pro. I know I'm glad I did. My rocker panel was scraped and had bare metal showing. It too looked as though it was starting to rust. I finally found a really nice guy who fixed it for me. He removed the rust, resculpted the rocker, and repainted it. He did an excellent job! I can't tell that anything ever happenned. He 99% colour matched with the undamaged rocker. The only diff is that the undamaged is a touch shinier, but the colour is the same. If I were you, I'd find a pro. Just keep talking to different guys and find someone you feel comfortable with. That's what I did. I didn't go to the $tealer recco'd bodyshop. He was rude, and he wanted to rip me off.



Good luck. I hope it all works out for you.
 
Well the pro said he needed to get the corrosion off or it will just bubble up again. He said that it would look the best by repainting the strip and blending the paint. I'm not rushing to do it, and I might give a touchup a try. If I hate it, I can still bring in to the pro, since he would just be sanding my repair the same as if I didn't try... He wants $100 to do the job and I will have it back the same day.



H
 
if your route is touch up paint, make sure you put some of the rust transformer stuff. It takes the iron oxide and the chemicals in it transform the rust into a sandable paintable, non rust surface. I think it has the word primer in it like, rust out black primer. Okay, I don't know the name of it exactly, but it's easy to find.
 
I'm going to be applying it via DA(speed 4) with a blue pad, and with a foam applicator when needed. Can I apply it to the whole car, then buff off? Should I do section by section? Curing time before exposing the car to the elements?

Thanks. :cornut:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I'm going to be applying it via DA(speed 4) with a blue pad, and with a foam applicator when needed. Can I apply it to the whole car, then buff off? Should I do section by section? Curing time before exposing the car to the elements?

Thanks. :cornut:
Click to expand...

I do the whole car, clean my windows, dress the tires and then remove it.


FYI, the gold LC pads work awesome for applying Blackfire WD! I used to use the blue until I seen Todd mention the gold ones...I'll never look back! :wizard:


I think 24hr cure time is best for any sealant but not required.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I'm going to be applying it via DA(speed 4) with a blue pad, and with a foam applicator when needed. Can I apply it to the whole car, then buff off? Should I do section by section? Curing time before exposing the car to the elements?

Thanks. :cornut:
Click to expand...

If you look at the directions on the bottle, it will tell you to do a section at a time. However, you can also do the entire car. If you decide to do the entire car, you need to let it haze and cure for about 40 minutes or so. Either way will work fine. Doing it section by section will save you time, but I like doing the whole car and letting it cure. After removal, you need to wait at least 12 hrs for the sealant to fully cure.

Let us know how it turns out.
 
Thanks guys! :w00t:

With an LSP, I've always liked doing the whole car then removing. I'll stick to that.

I'm going to try the Valugard decontamination system before BFWD on the z06. Curious to know how it compares to claying.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Do you have some sort of fallout on your car?
Click to expand...
The paint is in good shape. I clayed, polished, and waxed it a few months back. I'm now going to try BFWD, so I want a clean surface. There's some fallout, I drive it everyday(except in the rain). I don't like to clay, so if this is an alternative to deep clean the paint, I'm all for it. Also, less chance to marr the paint. :biggrin:
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Thanks guys! :w00t:

With an LSP, I've always liked doing the whole car then removing. I'll stick to that.

I'm going to try the Valugard decontamination system before BFWD on the z06. Curious to know how it compares to claying.
Click to expand...

07 z-oh-6
I an interested to hear of your experience with the Valugard system. We have recently played with it and are not sure what we think of it yet. Let us know what you think.

jk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top