"well i can just go to carspa"

howareb said:
OK Josh, next you are going to start a cosmetic line. :D



Just Jokin. Josh is 100% on this one, people have to be able to relate to something they know. Skin car seems to be the closet fit.



:lol



I drank some Zaino the other day and it really seemed to keep the plaque off a lot better then brushing alone....:spot
 
JoshVette said:
:lol



I drank some Zaino the other day and it really seemed to keep the plaque off a lot better then brushing alone....:spot

I heard that if you rinse for about a minute that you do not need to brush at all for at least 6-9 months. Now that is technology.
 
TTWAGN said:
"Do you want a 14 year old washing your car? Well i suppose your car isn't a Ferrari so you wouldn't care"



Whats wrong with a 14 year old washing a car, or better yet whats wrong with a 14 year old doing a full detail on a car?
 
baseballlover1 said:
Whats wrong with a 14 year old washing a car, or better yet whats wrong with a 14 year old doing a full detail on a car?



The typical un-informed 14 yr old. Not an autopian 14 year old.
 
baseballlover1 said:
Whats wrong with a 14 year old washing a car, or better yet whats wrong with a 14 year old doing a full detail on a car?



Daniel, I don't think he was talking about you at all, I think he was just making a general statement. (Remember probably no other 14 year old knows how to do what you do)
 
jsatek said:
2. I give an experience. (Im now adding the exfoliating analogy to my sales pitch) I resurface the factory clear coat then shield it form the elements with highly-engineered boutique lotions. I vaporize dirt and debris from the engine, carpets, and seating surfaces. Post sealing, I hand apply pure carnauba wax which is stored at 42 degrees Fahrenheit to slow the molecular decomposition and improve surface adhesion. I deliver all cars under 500 Watt halogens and go panel by panel with the client. I point out all defects I could not correct before the client does. I also give them a bottle of Z-8 and 2 microfibers to wipe the car down with should they need to.



You actually use these terms? Vaporize dirt? Molecular decomposition? Do you have a ray gun that you use when detailing?

What happens when the wax returns to room temperature after the application?



I commend your success. Sounds like you are selling carpet. If it works for you, don't change. I know that 700 is a drop in the bucket for the traders you work with. They'll pay that in commisions/desk fees in less than an hour.
 
JoshVette said:
Daniel, I don't think he was talking about you at all, I think he was just making a general statement. (Remember probably no other 14 year old knows how to do what you do)



you flatter me, lol :woohoo: :grinno:
 
im 17 and i really want to detail this RX8, it always stays there in 1 postion never moved and cleaned sometimes the owner does a **** house job waxing it but i want to do it for $50 and i really need the cash, how would you go by offering him my back yarder service im scared i will get bashed
 
Dirt_Turbo said:
im 17 and i really want to detail this RX8, it always stays there in 1 postion never moved and cleaned sometimes the owner does a **** house job waxing it but i want to do it for $50 and i really need the cash, how would you go by offering him my back yarder service im scared i will get bashed



So for $50 bucks what are you going to do for his car??
 
for $50 , clay with new clay, 2 coats of paint cleaner, 2 coats of swirl remover layer of Z2 pro, and then 2 - 3 coats of P21S, and quick vacuum of interior and dash clean and other parts of car such as door jams etc
 
OK. Before you regret pricing do realize that amount of time your going to put into this car. Clay alone will take 30 minutes. I personally start my clay services for 20.00 for a slight dirty car and so on and so forth. Before you jump the gun like I'm sure most of us have under quoted in the past. Then rethink what you think the job is going to be worth.
 
ya i know would take me 9 hours or so to complete the whole car to a reasonable finish , but i just cant stand looking at it always never being cleaned,
 
I use vaporize because I use a Desidero on the car, vapor cleaner. They get excited when I tell them its a $1200 steam cleaner that uses pressurized 300 degree water to remove contaminants without chemicals. (Oh, and I'll fill it with Poland Spring if they like) I'm always clear that the decomposition is slowed during storage and application, once applied, it dries and is on the finish. They love that I am serious about the detailing to the degree they are serious about their work.





For $700 they get:

Foam bath

Clay

Wet sand if necessary

Full Menzerna correction

Z-5pro x 2

Souveran wax top coat (spit-shine)

Engine detailed

Interior vapor cleaned and extracted

Wheels sealed and removed



A full detail to me. I won't sand the entire car for $700, just some rough spots or a panel or two. Ill touch the car up also if they have the paint. For an extra $200 per panel, I schedule my PDR guy to come over and clean the car up also. I go over all of this when I first see the car and do a write up on what I will perform for the customer. On my write up sheet are times required with a little detail information. And I write one price. I dont break it down for them to remove or add features. A detail with 3 panels of PDR is $1300.



If they need a bumper painted, depending on the size, color, and amount of preparation required for the repair, I charge between $400-600. I pay $300 flat rate for retail quality work from a shop owned by a friend. I dont not want him to charge me less so I can complain and piss all over him if I dont like the color match or quality of the work.





Model margins:

Full Detail

$700.00

Supply cost $35.00 approx.

Labor cost - $600.00 ($100.00 per hour @ 6 hrs per car)

Total cost - $635.00

Net profit - $65.00



PDR

$200.00 per panel

Cost - $80.00 per panel

Net profit- $120.00 per panel



Bumper refinishing

Average - $500.00

Cost - $300.00

Net profit - $200.00 per bumper.





Its an experience I am selling. Total car care, I serivce the vehicle as if it were a professional athelete. Also, if they dont like the work, they dont have to pay me. Because its all referral business, I dont get people looking to play games and I am not looking to make enemies.

I have wrapped up a call with this, "If it sounds like over-kill to you, you arent a customer for this type of service. I can still help you though".
 
Dirt_Turbo said:
ya i know would take me 9 hours or so to complete the whole car to a reasonable finish , but i just cant stand looking at it always never being cleaned,



Why bother applying two paint cleaners and two swirl removers?? I'd just do both once, there's really no need for two.



Also remember if he doesn't take care of the car bofore you do all this work, I wouldn't expect him to start caring about it now just cause it's shinier, so don't get mad if you do all that work just for him to let it go all to crap again....:sadpace:
 
All this work:



jsatek said:


For $700 they get:

Foam bath

Clay

Wet sand if necessary

Full Menzerna correction

Z-5pro x 2

Souveran wax top coat (spit-shine)

Engine detailed

Interior vapor cleaned and extracted

Wheels sealed and removed



A full detail to me. I won't sand the entire car for $700, just some rough spots or a panel or two. Ill touch the car up also if they have the paint.



In this amount of time:



jsatek said:


Full Detail @ 6 hrs per car)




For this amount of profit (?)



jsatek said:


Labor cost - $600.00 ($100.00 per hour @ 6 hrs per car)

Total cost - $635.00

Net profit - $65.00



I have a few questions after reading through your comments:



Are you doing the detailing yourself on these high end jobs? (I'm confused why you posted your labor costs as if you were paying them out?)



If you are doing it yourself, I can't see how this extent of repair is being done in this time frame?



If you're not, aren't you opening yourself up to alot of liability/exposure for $65 profit?
 
Here's a simple way to make the point. Go down to "carspa" with a jar get a jar of their nasty "grey" water they wash their customers cars with over and over and over again. Then fill up a jar of your crystal clear clean water and physically show them the difference they are paying for. Shouldn't be hard to make that point come across when the evidence is right there in front of their face.
 
David Fermani said:
All this work:







In this amount of time:







For this amount of profit (?)







I have a few questions after reading through your comments:



Are you doing the detailing yourself on these high end jobs? (I'm confused why you posted your labor costs as if you were paying them out?)



If you are doing it yourself, I can't see how this extent of repair is being done in this time frame?



If you're not, aren't you opening yourself up to alot of liability/exposure for $65 profit?



I am paying it out, I'm an S-Corp.

The $600 is for me, I have to give myself a pay-check.



I am rarely on time. I document $100.00 hr and I bill each car at 6 hrs flat to justify the $700 fee should I be asked. I am typically finishing at 7, 7.5 total time, but have been done in 6. I have a pre-defined process and a plan and follow it to the minute. My last 2 clean-ups were 7.7 hours of labor. I am operating at a loss at that point, its used as a metric to track success or failure.



A few things I do and do not do:



1. I do not use a digital micrometer to measure paint thickness. In 20 years of using a rotary I have never seen anyone burn through the middle of a panel, edges get ripped plenty, middle of a panel, never.



2. I do not clay obsessively. I clay the hood, roof, and trunk while washing. If I cant get the finish smooth with a wool pad and SIP, should it be so nasty, I will know this before I price the job and price accordingly. Haven't seen one yet.



3. I combine 3 initial cleaning/prep stepsinto 1 process. I put the car on jack stands, should I be so lucky they fit under the car and then remove the wheels. Otherwise I lose time doing a laft to right car wash with my low height floor jack. I pressure wash the car, engine, clay, clean the wells, wheels at this time. I put the wheels back on, roll it into the garage. I dry the car with a leaf blower then touch up with the air compressor in the garage. I also blow the interior out with my compressor while its outside in the driveway. Saves on vacuum time. Total time is 1.5 hours.



4. I do the interior first. This shields me from contaminating the exterior surfaces with dressings and window cleaner. It also prevents me from rubbing a Desidero or a vacuum home against a freshly polished surface. I dress the tires, wells, and engine at this time. Total time is 45 minutes.



5. I use 2 Makita rotary polishers. The first rotary has a 6" Edge pad, the second has 2.75" backing plate for use with 4" Lake Country pads in tight spots. SIP used with a rotary, 106ff is also used with a rotary. Should the vehicle require some touching up or some massaging with a PC, I break it out. I have however incorporated the Porter Cable into a fine finishing process on well kept cars. A typical car requires 3 hours to run over the panels. The R63 I did took 4, its huge. Should I need to sand out a scratch, add 60 seconds per panel. I have a few sheets of 2000 soaking before I start.



6. Zaino application. Put it on the entire car including the wheels, go eat lunch. Total time 15 minutes application, 45 minutes dry time. TOTAL 1h.



7. Zaino application 2. Put it on the entire car, walk around start final cleaning or all egdge, tim, exhaust, trim dressing, second tire dressing. Total time 1hour.



8. Souveran spit shine wax appication. Painted surfaces only, total time 30 minutes. Wipe-on Wipe-off



9.. My garage is heated to 70 dgrees in the winter via kerosene heater. Im not cold, the car isnt cold.



As you can read, i need to trim some time to make the $100 hour goal. I am continually refining the process. I also have all chemicals repackaged, laid out, and clearly marked in hand held sizes to reduce time searching for the right thing. In the driveway, I have a hand cart, in the garage I have a rolling seat I sit on and everything stay under me. The halogens are set up ahead of time, 1 in front, 1 in back. I move them from side to side as I polish around the car from top down.



I dont have many pictures of the configuration when I work, but here are a few I found.



Some items that stay with me in the seat

carkit.jpg




Brought into the driveway

driveway-kit.jpg




In garage, larger dose bottles.

desk.jpg






After each job, I wash every used microfiber and refill all of the bottles. This eliminates wasted start up time for the next weekend. I also keep enough microfibers, polisheng pads, and product on hard t complete a dozen cars. I never want for anything.



douches.jpg




sponges.jpg




pads.jpg




towels-2.jpg




polishing-lamps.jpg




polish-towels.jpg
 
Jsatek- Wow good write up on process.. But I have a few questions. First off to any detailer out there. This whole paint gauge thing. I keep looking at it as pure hype. and I can't seem to get past it. Why you ask? Because no matter how many times I check the paint my wheel has no clue what a micron is. now or ever will it be anywhere near as precise as that gauge. I can't wheel that specific so in essence what does it really matter how thick the paint is? If it's thin 99% of the time there are visable signs that it's thin. I've just never understood the logical reasoning behind this gimmick outside of trying to "upsale" your customers because it looks "high tech" and whatnot. What's the true reason behind the paint gauge?



second I read you use a compressor to blow out the interior but use a leaf blower to dry the car? Umm why? That might save you quite a bit of time right there. Get rid of the leaf blower. I've never understood that either. If I was a paying customer with a high end car and you (in general) show up to detail my car and pull out a leaf blower I would tell you right then and there to pack your stuff up and get off my property. It's a huge sign of unprofessional imagery. I would look at it the same as a kid showing up to mow my 20 acres of lawn with a push mower. Especially if you already have the air compressor. Use it. Much more efficient, much quicker, and looks like you showed up on the spot with the professional tools of the trade. They have water sprite out there that absoultly do NOT marr the paint in any way shape or form. No need to not use the proper detailing tools in this case. (again these are only my opnions)



I also don't get how it takes 3 hours to wheel out the paint but only 60 seconds to wetsand it? even per panel that dosen't sound right about the wetsanding. How are you wetsanding? Maybe it something I could use to save off some time. Because I'll take a half hour or more sometimes to do a thurough wetsand.



How are you taking off the wheels? 4 way lug wrench or impact? could shave off some minutes there as well if your using anything but the air compressor.



Can't really comment on the products used because I've never used them. But It might be worth the while to check into other products that have less cure times. If you can find any in the same quality range of the products you use.



These are just some of my tips as I see to maybe save yourself a few minutes here and there. take them with a grain of salt if needed. In the end it's all about the end result and not the hands on the clock though.
 
jsatek - Interesting procedure and setup. I guess my question would be do you typically work on the same brands of cars? What I am getting at is you mention using the SIP and 106ff for every detail. I know a lot of single stage paints respond very well to Meguiar's polishes for instance, whereas a Benz responds better to the Menzerna line. Do you ever find that your combo of polishes aren't working, so you have to spend more time trying other products?
 
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