We need better clay

I've heard the dire warnings about the oxalyic acid in AutoInt's "B" but it's never caused any problems for me. As AutoNova mentioned, in "B" it's a pretty mild version hence the need to clay while it's dwelling.



EdLancer- I'd always try the green ultra-fine first anyhow, see it that'll do the job.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, I turned RAG on to the AutoInt version of decontamination systems but if IIRC it didn't work out all that well. FWIW I still like to use clay while the acidic product is dwelling, so IMO these systems don't completely eliminate the need for clay in some instances (though they *do* in others).



You did indeed, and you're right, it barely touches the rust. And I just tried it again a few days ago on a really bad truck...I performed the process 4 times, but it only reduced the rust by about 20% (I had another Autopian there to witness the process just for fun). BTW, I have a picture of clay from this truck I'll try to post in a minute. My guess is that if one had very light rust contamination, it would get most of it. But anything more than that...forget about it. Though I have used the "Ford" labled product, I'm under the impression that they're all pretty much the same.
 
Accumulator said:
I've heard the dire warnings about the oxalyic acid in AutoInt's "B" but it's never caused any problems for me. As AutoNova mentioned, in "B" it's a pretty mild version hence the need to clay while it's dwelling.



.



The Ford cleaner I used never dulled out anything either. I cleaned bright white vehicles that looked pearl metal flake yellow from all the rain dust on the paint and it literally ate all the rust from the exterior in one attempt. If I was going to clay it, it would have taken 1/2 the day. Instead it took about an hour. One of key processes are to make sure you neutralize the vehicle or the acid could continue to work.
 
RAG said:
You did indeed, and you're right, it barely touches the rust. And I just tried it again a few days ago on a really bad truck...I performed the process 4 times, but it only reduced the rust by about 20% (I had another Autopian there to witness the process just for fun). BTW, I have a picture of clay from this truck I'll try to post in a minute. My guess is that if one had very light rust contamination, it would get most of it. But anything more than that...forget about it. Though I have used the "Ford" labled product, I'm under the impression that they're all pretty much the same.





1. How long are you letting the product dwell and are you keeping it "wet"

2. Have you tried claying during the B step? It will eat the hell out of your clay, but claying time will be significantly reduced.



The ABC is designed for new car prep, as such, it is designed to be safe, and only to remove fresh contamination, I believe less than 120 days. Anything older will require a second application, or preferably claying during the B step.
 
Wow, I think every time a thread gets to 5 pages, its up to someone who has been following it from the begining to do a short summary of the thread. LOL Cuz I'm interested in a better clay, but not willing to read 6 pages and most of which probably be pointless. LOL
 
HondaGuy said:
Wow, I think every time a thread gets to 5 pages, its up to someone who has been following it from the begining to do a short summary of the thread. LOL Cuz I'm interested in a better clay, but not willing to read 6 pages and most of which probably be pointless. LOL



Ok...I'll try....RAG opined about the loss of the Opti-Clay (Erazer clay from KEL), people offered some suggestions for other clay, talked about removing fallout with a decon system, then I found a source for the Erazer clay...AND NO ONE SEEMED TO NOTICE! :hm
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ok...I'll try....RAG opined about the loss of the Opti-Clay (Erazer clay from KEL), people offered some suggestions for other clay, talked about removing fallout with a decon system, then I found a source for the Erazer clay...AND NO ONE SEEMED TO NOTICE! :hm
I noticed it Mike. But the link I found more interesting was posted by 4AudiQ:



compound, polish, wax



The original Opti-Clay..... and I even started to order some..... but I was leery about using my CC with them. I also asked to verify if it was the Opti-Clay and if they had it in stock, but I haven't received a reply. They're located in area code 201, is that close to you? Ever hear anything about this outfit?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Hey, I notice that the Smart Clay picture in the ACC store looks a lot like the old Opti etc. clays, and they even show it stretched and twisted in an "elastic" manner. Anybody ever use the Smart Clay?

Gotta link??
 
Setec Astronomy said:
......PS I guess I missed that link...but RAG, who's the guy looking for the Opti-Clay, seemed to miss it all! :)
Yeah, I would have thought he would have jumped to get some of that clay.



Between getting bonus bars from the Autopia store when I order clay, I might have enough new (Sonus green and grey) along with my old stash to last until the patent runs out in 2013.



Hmmmmm, here's a thought....... has anyone tried kneading some Sonus green and grey clay together? I might have to give that a try this winter.
 
Eliot Ness said:
Between getting bonus bars from the Autopia store when I order clay, I might have enough new (Sonus green and grey) along with my old stash to last until the patent runs out in 2013.

:geez My stock may last that long as well...:o
 
Excellent explination.





Bence said:
Wooow, a quick reply box!!!



Back to topic; I love the Opticlay as well. It is/was made by K.E.L. aka Kucala Enterprises (Erazer)...



Need I say that we want this clay back??? Someone please enlighten AWC to get off, to let K.E.L. make their excellent elastic clay again.



I don't mind if they market it as Car Doh or packaged as little balls, and they only indicate an alternative use as detailing clay... Who cares? We want Kucala's elastic clay!!!
 
Stuff said:
Whats so bad about the Pinnacle clay? I used it last weekend and liked it. I believe the orginal poster said it did not slide easy and feel apart. I found it slid easy with my DP lube and it did not fall apart.



I'm no clay expert I have used the Sonus grey (too strong I think...scuffing), the green not bad just not strong enough. Just my thoughts.



Turns into mush and sticks to your hands after just a few uses, is too soft in the first place, leaves residue on plastic and rubber edges, and marrs paint more than opti-clay.
 
For what its worth, I picked up some Erazer and it is very similar to Opti-clay.. cleans just as well with no scuffing, but it's a bit tougher to knead than optimum. Great stuff though - I'm gonna pick up some more.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ok...I'll try....RAG opined about the loss of the Opti-Clay (Erazer clay from KEL), people offered some suggestions for other clay, talked about removing fallout with a decon system, then I found a source for the Erazer clay...AND NO ONE SEEMED TO NOTICE! :hm

LOL Now thats way better than having to read 6 pages!
 
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