Wax and or sealant for single stage paint.

Danspeed1 said:
... If the car is going to sit outside, Collinite 476s (super double coat) is just amazing. ..
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Yeah :xyxthumbs I used that on the ss Volvo I used to have (outside 24/7/52). It worked great, no significant problems with oxidation or fading. Even worked fine on the areas where it was down to primer.
 
David Fermani said:
Why not? I don't usually, but have without any problems. Low speed with a finishing pad works nice.
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Well, heat is the problem. Even with a finishing pad on low speed, you *could* get holograms. Maybe, with a Makita at around 600 rpm on a Lake Country Blue or Gold pad, with a synthetic product like M21 (designed for rotary) you could get away with it. In all other cases, I think it's taking an unnecessary risk.
 
So, if you use a pad with zero cut and a wax than isn't abrasive, what will create the swirls? I don't see the perceived risk?
 
David Fermani said:
So, if you use a pad with zero cut and a wax than isn't abrasive, what will create the swirls? I don't see the perceived risk?
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I've never actually applied wax via rotary. I'm not really an expert on this particular issue but I know it can happen. There was another detailer on here, applied souveran via rotary with a Black pad or something along those lines. Checked it out in the sun and everything was fine. A couple of days later, and the finish was trash.



Obviously, there are infinite variables and there could be an alternate explanation. But I do know heat and any form of paint protection is not a good combo.
 
Heat actually assists in the cross linking of polymers and it was recommended to me by a tech person @ Mark-V to apply their paint sealant via rotary. I've also tried it with 1Z Glanz and it came out fine. When you have a chance, give it a try, it might work well for you too.
 
David Fermani said:
Heat actually assists in the cross linking of polymers and it was recommended to me by a tech person @ Mark-V to apply their paint sealant via rotary. I've also tried it with 1Z Glanz and it came out fine. When you have a chance, give it a try, it might work well for you too.
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From MOL.



Mike Phillips said:
M21 is different in that it is formulated so that it can be applied using a rotary buffer, so it's formulated so that it can be applied in a way where heat may be present.



It's usually not a good idea or a good practice to apply waxes with a rotary buffer but the production detail industry does production work and that means they try do do things the fastest way, not always the best way.



See we know and understand this we modify or formulas for this practice even though we don't endorse it.



Makes sense?
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:nixweiss



I know who I'd rather listen to.
 
David Fermani said:
Heat actually assists in the cross linking of polymers and it was recommended to me by a tech person @ Mark-V to apply their paint sealant via rotary. I've also tried it with 1Z Glanz and it came out fine. When you have a chance, give it a try, it might work well for you too.
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Hmmm. Well, that kinda explains the results I got with my last application of fk1 1000p...



I had applied it by hand previously on a cool day, and it took three hours to cure. The next time I applied it by PC and it was cured the first time I checked it, which was about ten minutes after application.



Thanks, David... this just might make winter applications of wax/sealants a bit easier.
 
Holden_C04 said:
:nixweiss



I know who I'd rather listen to.
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Not really sure what you mean. Mike's talking about high volume operations that use it to save time, but in actuality, it takes more time, makes more mess and costs more? He says he doesn't endorse it, but M21 can be used that way?
 
Premium said:
I'm thinking about going with Menz 203 then 476s.
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That's an excellent choice. I like BigJim's suggestion to use a chemical cleaner like KAIO to remove the oxidation first, and then continue to polish the paint. I think that will turn out quite nicely. :)
 
BigJimZ28 said:
sorry to rock the boat guys but...



IMO SS paint is best with a Nuba I think it's the oils in the Nuba that "fead" the paint

the same way that the "trade sectet oils" in megs polishes just work a little with SS

paint



I also like to use a chemical cleaner first to "eat throught" the oxidization

(like meg 66 or KAIO works great) and make the process alittle faster and a lot easier on your pads



so for me the best combo is KAIO, Meg's polishes, oil base glaze, and nice coat of Nuba
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Having owned a few SS paint vehicles and street rods; I agree :xyxthumbs



Once you have the paint cleaned/polished, I definitely suggest going with a heavy 'nuba.



P21S; Souveran; or even Meg's #26 have worked well for me in the past.



I also recently used Clearkote Yellow Moose wax followed with Souveran on a SS 18y.o. white paint setup and it turned out OUTSTANDING. Very wet, warm with nice sheen and reflection.
 
Premium said:
So use KAIO by hand or rotary first?



Wow, I feel like a beginner with single stage paint, lol!
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By hand or PC is fine. I'd rather use the PC to save my hands and arms. You can even use a White LC pad.
 
I like Klasse in this situation, used it many many times. However, I would pound it with 203 first and then come behind it wilth Klasse to clean up anything 203 left behind and really clean the paint. Then it will be ready for your wax/sealant. If you start with Klasse, then 203 will essentially strip away all the good qualities Klasse has to offer, other than just the polishing/cleaning.
 
Cleaning Fool said:
I like Klasse in this situation, used it many many times. However, I would pound it with 203 first and then come behind it wilth Klasse to clean up anything 203 left behind and really clean the paint. Then it will be ready for your wax/sealant. If you start with Klasse, then 203 will essentially strip away all the good qualities Klasse has to offer, other than just the polishing/cleaning.
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The idea for using Klasse first is to make it easier to polish, not to leave anything behind.
 
I just remembered something...a bit late for this thread but while we're discussing it anyhow:



Meg's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner used to have some mighty potent chemical cleaning agents (not "cleaners" in the Meg's-speak context, meaning abrasives) that cut oxidation very well. These chemicals were so potent that you had to be a little careful about leaving product on the paint for a long time if you were using the "pick up the line of product" technique with your rotary. Sure did work great on oxidation, surprised I didn't think of it before now :o



Wonder if the new formulation of #2 still cleans that well, might make for a good approach on ss for non-rotary users (the previous version was rotary-only but the old-old-old version worked OK by hand back in the day).
 
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