Wax and or sealant for single stage paint.

[JohnKleven]

Oxidation is very much like a sunburn on your skin. Once you've been burned you're much more likely to have skin problems. I would use a high quality polymer paint sealant as it will last longer, and hopefully the oxidation will not reapear shortly after. If the paint is too bad, it will polish out beautifully, but will not last.







John

 

[NSXTASY]

Hmmm. Well, that kinda explains the results I got with my last application of fk1 1000p...



I had applied it by hand previously on a cool day, and it took three hours to cure. The next time I applied it by PC and it was cured the first time I checked it, which was about ten minutes after application.



Thanks, David... this just might make winter applications of wax/sealants a bit easier.

Waay off topic, but I LOOOOVE 1000P, and have found that applying the first layer by machine is the best, and follow with 1-2 more by hand a few hours/days/weeks apart. I'm just about through my first tin. Better than Collinite IMO.



/Threadjack over....

 

[Envious Eric]

megs 66 is a heavy chemical cleaner wax that will eat away the oxidation...followed by 83/80 and you will be good to go



use a sealant, and then a nuba if you are looking for durable protection, or just a nuba if he is going to wax every month or so



that is my advice

 

[salty]

One very over looked product is Mothers Pre-Wax cleaner. This product gives me a guide to how bad the oxidation is.



I think they might have changed the formula for VOC reasons but it did work wonders.