Wax and or sealant for single stage paint.

Garry Dean

Garry Dean Quality!
I got a call today from a guy who would like to have me bring his 1960 Corvair Sedan back to life. It is severely oxidized, but otherwise in great shape. So I went over to see the car today and negotiate a price. We settled on a price and I set up the appointment. He used some Mothers cleaner wax on some of the car with decent results so he decided since it was looking better with that he should have a professional take a look.



My question is what kind of wax and or sealant do you prefer for single stage paint? I used search, but didn't get the results I was looking for.



Here are some pics of the car that I took today, enjoy!



P1040845.jpg




P1040846.jpg




P1040848.jpg




P1040849.jpg




P1040850.jpg




P1040851.jpg




P1040852.jpg




P1040853.jpg




P1040854.jpg




P1040855.jpg




P1040856.jpg




P1040857.jpg




P1040858.jpg




Here is a shot at another one of his projects. Yeah, its a Corvair van.



P1040859.jpg
 
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think the fact that it's single stage paint should play any role in the choice of its protection.
 
Holden_C04 said:
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think the fact that it's single stage paint should play any role in the choice of its protection.



+1 IMO the choice of either a wax or sealant is mainly based upon what is tring to be achieved. For example if you are going to resotre this to a show car then I would use a high grade carnuba wax. However if the car is going to stay out in the elements exposed then I would choose a very durable sealant. Find out what the customer plans to do with the car once you are done with it. The best look is usually with wax and sealents are generally for better protection.
 
Premium said:
You are correct, but I guess what I'm after are suggestions as to the best look.



I think PO203 or IP on a Black pad on the rotary, or a White/Orange pad on the PC would look quite nice. Frankly, doesn't really matter much what you top it with.
 
sorry to rock the boat guys but...



IMO SS paint is best with a Nuba I think it's the oils in the Nuba that "fead" the paint

the same way that the "trade sectet oils" in megs polishes just work a little with SS

paint



I also like to use a chemical cleaner first to "eat throught" the oxidization

(like meg 66 or KAIO works great) and make the process alittle faster and a lot easier on your pads



so for me the best combo is KAIO, Meg's polishes, oil base glaze, and nice coat of Nuba
 
BigJimZ28 said:
sorry to rock the boat guys but...



IMO SS paint is best with a Nuba I think it's the oils in the Nuba that "fead" the paint

the same way that the "trade sectet oils" in megs polishes just work a little with SS

paint



I also like to use a chemical cleaner first to "eat throught" the oxidization

(like meg 66 or KAIO works great) and make the process alittle faster and a lot easier on your pads



so for me the best combo is KAIO, Meg's polishes, oil base glaze, and nice coat of Nuba



I agree, I was leaning toward a Nuba. So you like KAIO via rotary or by hand first to eat through the oxidation then hit it with Megs 83 then maybe 80?
 
Premium said:
PO203 and a black finishing pad?



PO203 is a new polish made by Menzerna. It cuts like SIP and finishes like PO106FF. It's designed to do two steps in one. So, for an inexpensive job like you are about to do (4-6 hrs) this polish is perfect. Using a Black finishing pad with this polish will ensure a hologram-free finish (provided you inspect the finish in the sun, of course).
 
Premium said:
I agree, I was leaning toward a Nuba. So you like KAIO via rotary or by hand first to eat through the oxidation then hit it with Megs 83 then maybe 80?



I like AIO by PC

IMO it flashes too fast by rotary



yes 83 & 80 are great choices(thank Scottwax for that info)
 
So, back to my original question, lol. I guess it wont matter on single stage. Whatever looks good on clear should also look good on SS paint
 
Premium said:
So, back to my original question, lol. I guess it wont matter on single stage. Whatever looks good on clear should also look good on SS paint





Yeah, but as BigJimZ28 pointed out, the oils/etc. in carnaubas can work especially well on single stage. This is most pronounced on old-tech ss, where the "feed the paint" thing is *NOT* BS the way it is with b/c. For this reason, glazes such as Meguiar's "pure polishes" can be a good idea too (#7 used to be called "sealer and reseal glaze" back in the days of ss paint).



The only reason I'd consider a sealant on ss is for UV protection if fading/oxidation is the primary concern. And no, I dunno which sealant(s) would be best for this but I somehow suspect there are some that'd do a better job than a carnauba.



On *my* ss cars, I use carnauba and I keep 'em out of the sun.
 
Premium, FWIW, I think that BigJim and Accumulator *really* know their stuff. If it was my SS car, I would read, print, and follow their posts to the letter. But... that's just me. :D
 
howareb said:
+1 IMO the choice of either a wax or sealant is mainly based upon what is tring to be achieved. For example if you are going to resotre this to a show car then I would use a high grade carnuba wax. However if the car is going to stay out in the elements exposed then I would choose a very durable sealant. Find out what the customer plans to do with the car once you are done with it. The best look is usually with wax and sealents are generally for better protection.



agreed if you want a crazy shine wax it if you want it protection for along while seal it if you want both seal 1st wax 2nd .
 
razr007 said:
agreed if you want a crazy shine wax it if you want it protection for along while seal it if you want both wax 1st seal 2nd .



Don't you mean the other way around, i.e., seal 1st wax 2nd? None of my sealants will bond to a wax :confused:
 
Ive owned a single stage van for 10 years. Heres what my experience tells me. If the owner doesnt keep a durable product on the car after you leave, its going to oxidize all over again. Whatever you choose, Go with something thats durable. I wouldn't put a nuba on there thats going to be gone in 1 month. Again, durability is your friend with single stage.
 
I've done a couple of SS paints and they never seem to come up mirror like BCCC. They tend to want to look wet. Thus my suggestion would be to stick with a Nuba. If you want something for show and the car is going to sit in a garage then I would go with Pinnacle or P21S (which i just used this weekend and have a new found respect for). If the car is going to sit outside, Collinite 476s (super double coat) is just amazing. Put a coat on my Monte in April and after 15-20 wash's, salt on the road, and just grim, its still holding up! Just my $0.02



DG
 
Back
Top