Veterans Day

That when I did my first Zaino treatment, the humidity was very high and temperatures were in the 60's causing the dry time to be abnormaly long. This time of year, you won't have any problems.
 
Zaino is an all day event if you want to do multiple coats in a day. Wash, clay, apply Z1, apply Z5, wait to dry (if humid, several hours), remove, wait 8 hours (if above 80 and not too humid), Z6, apply Z2, wait to dry, remove, Z6. That's all day for the first event.



It is not bad if you do this over two weekends.



1. Wash, clay, apply Z1, apply Z5, wait to dry (if humid, several hours), remove, Z6.



2. Wash, Z6, apply Z2, wait to dry, remove, Z6.



3. Third weekend (and following for several months). Wash, Z6.



The first two weekends while you wait to dry, you can do the interior, the door jambs, the back of the wheels and wheel wells, the engine compartment. Ooooops, that's my routine for the Subie that I haven't gotten around to.
 
BradG, first of all welcome. We should have a newbie form like when you go to a doctor or something: Car Make, Model, condition of finish, color, expectations........



Well anyway, the single most thing (that I think) in you taking care of your car "to ensure that the car is going to look good for some time" has to do with you you maintain which ever wax combo you hit (either zaino or Klasse). Having a black car means you number one concern is swirl marks. And those are caused mostly from washing and or quick detailing (possibly waxing). If I were to get a brand new black car, I would wash it as carefully as possible. I would only QD immediately after a washing. I wouldn't use second rate drying tools (good tools but have potential to be bad if used wrong) and never wipe, swipe, or apply in a swirl pattern. I would also monitor your swirl situation at every step of your process in order to isolate where swirls are most likely to occur (that way you can post to us so we can minimize it too) because not everyone has a clean palette to work with like you will.



HTH-Steve
 
It never took longer than an hour for it to dry for me even on the most humid of days. And that is the first coat I am talking about when you have Z1 and Z2 drying. Additional coats of Z2 or Z5 dry in about 20-30 minutes if applied thin. Also that waiting time is true for any product including KLASSE if you are applying multiple coats and want to layer. Waiting time is no longer with zaino, and once sal's new product gets released it will have the shortest curing time in the industry allowing back to back coats and full layering effects.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>It never took longer than an hour for it to dry for me even on the most humid of days. And that is the first coat I am talking about when you have Z1 and Z2 drying. Additional coats of Z2 or Z5 dry in about 20-30 minutes if applied thin. Also that waiting time is true for any product including KLASSE if you are applying multiple coats and want to layer. Waiting time is no longer with zaino, and once sal's new product gets released it will have the shortest curing time in the industry allowing back to back coats and full layering effects. [/b]</blockquote>Speaking of the new Z product, any more rumors as to when it will be available? I'd like to take a weekend this fall and just go nuts one day applying a few layers for the coming salt-fest known as "winter in Omaha".

Tort
 
all,



thanks for your inputs. I do appreciate it.



So far it looks like a $50-$70 worth of stuff to get me started. Not bad, I'm certain that its going to look awesome.



Somewhat off topic question, as I woke up this morning, condensation was all over my current vehicle. Am I going to have to Quick Detail the car to get that off? Like I said my goal here is to make the car look good but not be time-consuming.



Brad
 
does anybody use a car cover for extended parkings? I never have so I don't even know the good/bad part of this.



Thanks again all,

Brad
 
My car has condensation on it most mornings. I DO NOT quick detail and it seems to dry off perfect while driving to work. Now if you live in a dusty area and dust stuck to it, that's another story.



I would not use a car cover outside. It can actually mar the paint with constant rubbing on a windy day. Also, you can't really put the car cover on unless the car is 100% clean (just washed) for fear of scratching or rubbing dirt into the paint and swirling it up. I would use a car cover indoors after wash if I was going to leave my car for a few days, but that is about it.
 
My recommendation is to get the clay bar too. If you are going to add more and more layers of Z-2 or Z-5, as the time passes, contaminates that cannot be removed by washing, will be sealed over.



Btw, you can use Klasse AIO+SG by adding more and more layers, and clay in between. Its not always a repeat process every 6 months thing.
 
I use a car cover on my car. Like DK said, the car should be clean when you put the cover on so that you dont scratch the paint. Also if you get a cover, get one that is washable. That way you can wash the cover at home. By keeping the cover clean you will limit the chances of damage occuring to the paint.



I use my cover for winter use. To keep the snow and crud off of it when I can't put it in the garage. As with anything, you get what you pay for. Dont get some crap cover from a auto parts store, they will do more harm than good. Get a quality cover. But, good covers can be expensive. Depending on which material you want, and the size of your car, the price can get in to the $300-$400 range quickly.
 
There are many good car covers out there. Look into Noah or the car cover from Griots for a start. Do a search and see what else you can come up with. I use mine outside quite regularly and am extremely pleased with it. No problems. Look into one. As for the car needing to be clean, just use a quality quick detailer and you will have no problems. Laters. Zaino is probably fine but Klasse is something that I would also look into. There are so many satisfied users of this product here. Laters.
 
Take your time! You can buy the best products money can buy , but if you don't take your time and learn how to use them correctly , they will not do you any good. It will take some time to learn how to use the products. We all have our way of doing things , and and so will you. We all have our favorite products , and so will you. Use what you think will be the best for for you. Good luck :)
 
A lot of good advice.



The other brad said that one of the limitations was that he did not have a lot of time. I think this rules out keeping a top coat of wax on the car. Given that, its either AIO and SG, or Zaino. I happen to like the Z, because you can layer it, and, as DK says, the Z7 wash helps replenish the Z2/Z5, postponing the need to do new coats of Z2/Z5, but, as most of us say, you cannot go wrong with either.



To re-enforce what DetailKing said, Z does not take that long AND there is NO elbow grease involved. Easy on, easy off.



As to drying, it depends on your climate. I would guess you would not have much of a problem most anywhere here in the US, during the summer. Of course, you could be in a more humid climate. But, as DK says, just make sure to apply thin coats, and, as another poster said, you can do the interior, tires, etc. while the Z dries. During the summer, in a dry climate, it should dry real fast. Speaking of interiors, as soon as I get a new car, I like to apply protectants to the interior BEFORE it gets dirty. I Scotchguard all fabric and carpets immediately. It works better on virginly clean materials. Apply suitable protectants to the vinyl, etc. all before they get their initial dirtiness. If you have leather, condition it.



I think that it is essential to use a car cover if you have no garage. DK's point on putting a dirty cover on a car is well taken. Don and Showroom's solutions match mine. If you keep the car covered except when it is in motion, then, depending on your climate, it is not going to get very dirty, especially during the summer.



This is controversial, and I can only do it because the car is kept undercover for 22-23 hours a day, but I LIGHTLY run a California duster over it (shaking out the Duster between every two strokes), then do a QD, every evening, right before putting the cover on. The cover therefore gets put on a clean car. To be safe, rinse the cover while it is in place on the car once a week (leave it on to dry) and I wash the cover periodically, as needed.



Lastly, the first advice you were given on telling the dealer to do nothing is correct. However, you must go two steps further. Send him a fax, email, or letter, immediately, putting your instructions in writing. Then, a few hours before he is supposed to get the car, CALL and repeat the instructions and make sure that YOU talk to the actual person who would be ordering/not ordering the car to be washed. This may sound overly paranoid, but people forget and the person you talk to could get distracted, etc. and your instruction could never be relayed. And, my friends on this site are correct, there is a likelihood the dealer will swirl the paint if they prep the car. Mine did.



Tell him to prep the interior, but not to touch the paint, at all. Nothing. He will have trouble believeing this and will tend to think you really don't mean it. Tell you want it to have the road dirt on it. Tell him why. You have to tell him that if the car is clean, you will not take delivery.



[Edited by darbh on 08-18-2001 at 10:46 AM]
 
darbh and others,



I feel like I opened a can of worms with this thread. All of which is EXCELLENT! You folks are chock full of info that would have taken me YEARS to come up with. So for that I want to say THANKS!



I am going to see my dealer today because apparently the car was supposed to be here this week but is not. Yesterday he informed me that it missed the boat and is still sitting on the dock in Japan. Major bummer indeed. So I am going to try to do some investigation into facilitating a dealer trade. I'm desparate to pick up a new car. I can't wait any longer. I hope all understand.



Okay now back to the thread issue- (aside over)



I would hate for all this info to disappear in the archive. Perhaps our esteemed moderator (hint hint) could write up a new car/newbie FAQ incorporating all these comments? Just a thought but I did a search for "new car" and came up with nothing and this is good stuff.



Brad
 
The Pinnacle leather conditioner is good but very pricey. Others that are favorites here are Lexol, Zaino leather conditioner and of course the Eagle One leather conditioner. There are quite a few advocates of this latter product. Its very inexpensive and you can find it at many local stores. It softens up the seats very well and leaves a very nice scent. The only problem minimal problem with this and the Zaino conditioner is that it does leave the seats a bit slippery for a few days. Not a big thing but slightly annoying. So try using a moistened towel afterwards to help minimize this effect. Laters.
 
I also use Eagle One Leather Conditioner about 3 times a year. I use Eagle One Leather cleaner and 303 Aerospace once every 4-5 weeks.



Many other people had sucess with Zaino, Pinnacle, and Leatherique.
 
I wipe the leather down with a soft MF towel, lightly dampened with distilled water, every couple weeks. I lightly condition the leather with Zaino conditioner every month to two months. I use the Zaino cleaner on the leather every four-six months.

Keeping the leather conditioned is important. As to the conditioner, TraderAlex1 on Edmunds.com says that the auto leather makers ("tanners") have tested all the national brands, extensively, and have found them all to be basically OK. He suggests to use what you like.

An idea has been circulating that you should not use products containing oils on modern auto leathers. All modern auto leathers have a "top coat" applied by the tanners per the auto maker's specifications. The top coat is designed to accomplish various purposes, protect the leather, etc. The idea is that products containing oils will break down the top coat.

TraderAlex1 posts on Edmunds.com. He is a dealer is hides. I asked him about this. TradeAlex1 wrote a long piece in response, politely refuting the idea. http://townhall-talk2.edmunds.com/[email protected]^[email protected]/450 He has pointed out that 1. hides come from animals and they naturally have oils and fats in them (fats, which exist in hides, are simply oils that are solid at room temperature) 2. products containing oil -- which many national brands do -- have been tested by the tanners and they are OK. In fact, one of the big three tanners, Eagle Ottawa, sells a product, Tanners Preserve, that has oil.

Be aware, however, that certain oils, particularly straight oils like mink oil or neatsfoot oils, can perminantly darken the leather, and not always in a consistent manner. So, although I use mink oil on leather goods I make (as a hobby) those leathers are vegetable dyed and they are black to begin with. I would never use straight mink oil on light leather or modern auto leather, particularly if it was a light color leather. I guess you could use it on black, but, man, you'd have to let it sit awhile -- maybe a few days -- to let it soak in throughly. I'd go with a blended product, a leather conditioner.

TraderAlex1 says that while it is not horrible to use a combination cleaner/conditioner, it is better to use seperate products.

A big enemy of the leather is light, particularly UV, which is one reason why 303 protectant is popular on this site. Keeping your car garaged and covered when it is out of a garage is one of the best things you can do for the leather (and the car). This is also a reason to tint the windows (to cut down on the light and UV).

Lastly, NEVER use saddle soap on modern auto leather. Saddle soap does work on saddle leather, which is vegetable tanned. Most modern leather is chrome tanned and saddle soap does not work well with it. Use a leather cleaner.
 
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