Used my rotary for the first time today, not too happy

Anthony Orosco said:
True, some more than others.



This though won't be true for the new generation of wool/blend pads. Lake Country has a very nice wool pad out right now that has little to no shedding:xyxthumbs



Anthony
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You mean like the one offered by CMA right now that has a 60/40 wool/acrylic blend?



Look toward the bottom:

http://www.properautocare.com/812inadcpa.html



Anthony,



What foam pads are you using?
 
In my experience, holograms are caused by applying uneven pressure on the rotary. I was using a Meg's W-8000 polishing pad and #80 speed glaze. I found that using the machine's weight alone does not produce holograms. If I need more cutting power I either do more passes until it's gone or I use a more abrasive product and/or pad.



And even if you do create holograms, you can "erase" them by going across them. :up



JDookie, do try to grip the rotary's head instead of the handle. It'll help you control it better. And since you know where the rotary will drag you (to the right), hold it in such a way that you can control that natural tendency with your right hand.



I also tilt the rotary if I'm going to do a tight spot (say between the windshield and the washer). No problems here. Just make sure you use the slowest rpm setting.
 
JDookie said:
You mean like the one offered by CMA right now that has a 60/40 wool/acrylic blend?



Look toward the bottom:

http://www.properautocare.com/812inadcpa.html



Anthony,



What foam pads are you using?
Click to expand...



No the wool and acrylic blends are not new but your standard blended materials....just some makers of the pads vary in the blend ratios.



There are a new generation of microfiber and wool blends coming out with the cutting and leveling abilities of wool but the lint free reduced scratch properties of microfiber.



Lake Country has some pads now which are called "Foamed Wool", an item they are calling "nanofoam" I believe. Here is a link to some info about them, please delete the link if it is out of line. http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/featured.html



I am a big fan of the Lake Country 7 and 6 inch pads....BUT while at the World Car Care Expo the past several days I was asked to demo for Optimum the Optimum Polish on a single stage black Lexus hood for a good part of the day and Kevin Farrell, from Kleen Car, let me use some pads from a small company called, I think, "American Buffing" (?) and let me tell ya, these pads ROCKED! I fell in love with them all and I took most of them home with me:woot:



They have all sizes, from 4 inch pads to what looks to be 8 inch pads. Thier finishing pads are like foam velvet. I'll be sharing more of about their buffing properties as I become familiar with them.



Anthony
 
When using the rotary, I also tilt the pad. But tilting too much can be disastrous, as the edge of the pad generates more heat than the flat surface. Many times I have installed buffer burns on a scrap panel because of this. (Tilting too much)



So remember when tilting the pad, tilt it very slightly just enough NOT to stay flat, else the annoying buffer hop.



PC or any RO/DA polisher usage is IMHO very different from the rotary.



Many if not all of the concepts learned in the former does not apply to the latter. It's up to you to discover those, by experience.



Maybe it's just me, but I tend to feel uncomfortable in handling DA's compared to the rotary, especially the Makita. I feel the latter is smooth enough especially when I tilt it very slightly.



Also, I move the rotary pad in a circular motion when working on a panel, in contrast with the sideways motion on a DA. Since the rotary rotates to the right, I tend to work the tilted pad going counter clockwise motion. The movement varying from the speed of the rotary.



Furthermore, to avoid product splatter, when you're using the Makita, try speed 600rpm first to spread the product. I do apply the polish on the surface itself and fetch it with the pad at low rpm. This eliminates splatter.
 
Anthony- between the upcoming Cyclo pads and the ones you've posted about here, you certainly have me on the edge of my seat. And I don't even have any vehicles that need correction!



tripper_11- Heh heh, maybe you oughta get a Cyclo for your d/a. I too find the PC sorta weird, but the Cyclo and a rotary are somewhat similar in how they handle.



JDookie- Heh heh, gee, look at the variables you tossed at youself at one time: rotary and #83, first time for each ;)



You might want to try the rotary with a product you know *really* well. And I heartily recommend the smaller 6-6.5" pads. I find the rotary *very* easy to control with those.



Those of you who are gonna try to *intetionally* do damage (good idea, BTW) might try to do the damage with *normal speeds and techniques*. Anybody can burn paint with the edge of the pad at 2,500, or with a lot of pressure- the point is to know how you can burn it at, say, 1,750. You want to "intentionally cause a likely accident", not do something weird enough that it won't sneak up on you during a normal detail.
 
Accumulator,



The "new" Cyclo pads need alot of testing as some paints respond well and others don't. I am going through all sorts of scenarios as to how to get the best and SAFEST results.



I thought I was close to giving it an "OK" but I have had some setbacks. As I stated from the get go of this project, it may fly or it may not:nixweiss



The other buffing pads that I just recently used last week have me all giddy:bounce I have a white 05 Audi A8 sitting in my garage that I am going to tackle with a "belly" lambs skin pad and then use these new foam finishing pads to finish it off.



I'll post up pics:xyxthumbs



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Accumulator,



The "new" Cyclo pads need alot of testing as some paints respond well and others don't. I am going through all sorts of scenarios as to how to get the best and SAFEST results.
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OK, we'll see how things work out. I can certainly understand everybody wanting pads that are safe for all finishes.



I have a white 05 Audi A8 sitting in my garage that I am going to tackle with a "belly" lambs skin pad and then use these new foam finishing pads to finish it off.
Click to expand...



Ah, *that* got my attention ;) I look forward to hearing about that one.
 
Ohh, i'm sorry seracis,



I guessed I typed it wrong the(195.00). But yeah since i'm poor even $119-129.00) is still steep for me right now.



But I am saving up.
 
Well, as an update, I have sent back my 8.5" Advanced High Gloss pads back to CMA (a thread has been started thanking CMA directly, they were great) and once they receive them I will be issued a credit and will purchase some smaller pads that are easier to work with.
 
Accumulator said:
JDookie- I think you'll be glad you switched to the smaller pads.
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I think so too. So what pads do you like to use on the rotary? So far, I'm thinking just regular 6" flat LC pads. The Sonus DAS pads seem to be a *little* too soft for rotary use, what do you think?
 
If you do not know already, I use the rotary exclusively for all polishing activities.



After playing with polishes from Meguiar's, Gliptone, Poorboy's, Menzerna, and Sonus, I have come to the conclusion that Menzerna seems to match the best. I use these mostly with my trusty 7.5" Lake Country White Polishing Concaved Pad.



Before I begin using the machine (initially), I mist it with some PB S+W, then lay down the bead of product onto the surface of the paint. I turn the machine on slowly and move over the surface very quickly to spread the product around. Then I begin at a chosen starting point moving slowly and steadily over the surface not really adding any downward pressure. If tilting, I BARELY tilt the pad at all...this is usually done to keep any sling to a minimal. Work the polish until translucent and remove with a MF.



The most trusty form of lighting to check with is the sun, then metal hallide, then halogen.



Hologramming occurs for MANY reasons, but the main being too much cutting which can occur from too agressive of a pad, pressure, speed, or polish.



Hope this helps out.
 
JDookie- I've just been using Meg's 6.5" pads. But note that I don't do much with the rotary these days except for spot repairs, and for those I just use 4" pads. I'd probably agree with the flat LC pads.
 
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