Used my rotary for the first time today, not too happy

#83 was really designed for use by rotary, and you won't get Meguiars to deny that it is not as effective as it could be by PC.



Jdookie, your first experiences were like mine last july. It gets better and easier. There are a few things about the rotary, like Anthony stated, that aren't "right or wrong" subjects. Truth of the matter if you don't do something completely, horribly, and utterly stupid and the paint looks like you want it--you are probably doing something right. So don't be afraid to try to vary things a little to make it how you want it to be.



Personally, I do mist the paint with water. Not a lot, just enough. I try to not tilt the pad so much that an opposing side is put off the paint. Sometimes, I have found (on some panels) that tilting the pad doesn't do much of anything. I use a side handle because I think it provides better balance and control (I don't want to trip and not have two hands firmly on the machine, the PC is relatively light and small so it's easier to control without a handle).



You may want to order a lighter polish and a polishing pad (if not a finishing pad) to try out on. This will be more forgiving for you while you learn. At least, that's how I taught myself and gained confidence with it.
 
I was using my Propel pads with the rotary. I really like having the handle on top since it's very easy to steer the pad with a little push on the top handle.

I also found that it was easy to control the machine when it tried to run away. The two handles offer great control of the machine (trigger handle + attachment handle).
 
Dookie, sorry about your first stumble. I like 8.5 LC type pads, I tilt it like Anthony was saying, this prevents any wobble. I only use the edge of the concave pad, I do not use the center of the pad. Yes, I have to change pads every panel or two, but this works very easy for me. Give Menzerna a try, it's a very Rotary friendly polish. Don't give up on 8.5's, just tilt the machine.



If you look at where the guy in this picture is applying the polish you'll see what I mean by using the edge.

http://www.autogeek.net/vcfoampads.html
 
I'm a newbie to using the rotary, and the thing that bugs me the most about it is the splatter. It is SO ANNOYING to clean stuff off windows and the black parts around it, and at the same time it's also annoying to have to spend so much time taping everything off. I'm impatient when it comes to set-up; i just want to get straight to the polishing. =P
 
I suck at the rotary and quite honestly fear it. I am too scared to pratice on our car just for the fact that Nissan has such soft clearcoats as it is. I guess that I should go get a junk pannel and try to burn the sh!t out of it to see what its limits are.
 
raymond_ho2002 said:
I'm a newbie to using the rotary, and the thing that bugs me the most about it is the splatter. It is SO ANNOYING to clean stuff off windows and the black parts around it, and at the same time it's also annoying to have to spend so much time taping everything off. I'm impatient when it comes to set-up; i just want to get straight to the polishing. =P



You can reduce and elliminate splatter by having a machine that gradually speeds up like a 9227, and apply polish to the panel first and smush it around with the pad before turning machine on.
 
I'm brand new (No experience) to mchine polishing and i was planning on getting a PC but I hear so many complaints from it and slow the process is with it. Although i know its a great machine.



I wanna know if you guys thnk i should just get like a Chicago Rotary & learn that. I know that I will have to be very very cautious. Do you guys think its the right choice for me.



I got a black car that has 7 yr. old paint with massive spider webbing and i wanna know the most effective yet easy and quick way to remove them. Investing $195.00 in a PC is very very steep for me right now so i need your wise advice. thanx everyone
 
Burlyq,



So you actually like those huge 8.5" pads? I think I am going to try out some 6.5" pads tomorrow to see if I am any better than I was today. You don't find that by only using the edge of the pad, you get swirls and/or holograms? Everything I have read thus far has said not to use the edge of the pad, but you are actually doing just that with good results.



I just sent CMA an email to see if they would possibly consider taking these 8.5" Advanced High Gloss C.P. pads back, and at that point I will decided what to go with next.



I'm really thinking that these pads really need to be tilted to be manageable or apply enough pressure that the pad actually flattens out but that would require a LOT of pressure on a 8.5" pad, and I don't want to have to do that. I also didn't like how the polish was being dried up before it had a chance to do anything.
 
Yes I would recommend getting a PC. I would also recommend picking up a Chicago rotary, but the PC is IMO an indispensable tool.

Even if you have the rotary, the PC is great to have around to remove any holograms that you may leave behind with the rotary.
 
mystickid said:
I'm brand new (No experience) to mchine polishing and i was planning on getting a PC but I hear so many complaints from it and slow the process is with it. Although i know its a great machine.



I wanna know if you guys thnk i should just get like a Chicago Rotary & learn that. I know that I will have to be very very cautious. Do you guys think its the right choice for me.



I got a black car that has 7 yr. old paint with massive spider webbing and i wanna know the most effective yet easy and quick way to remove them. Investing $195.00 in a PC is very very steep for me right now so i need your wise advice. thanx everyone



No contest, get the PC and learn on that FIRST. I am having a time trying to *learn* the rotary and am finding myself applying a lot of what I learned with the PC to this, and I don't think I'd want to *learn* how to use a rotary on 7 year old black paint. The PC is slower, but I can't begin to tell how much easier it is to use. Don't rush things, detailing takes time no matter what tool you use.
 
Jdookie and White95max



thanx for the advice, really appreciate it.



Then i am going for the PC.



Do you guys know of any really good thread tutorials or video tutorials for using the PC. I really don't want to hurt my car & i am willing to learn what it takes. thanx a bunch
 
The PC is very easy to use. It's very straight-forward. Use higher speeds and more aggressive pads for more aggressive polishes. Use less aggressive pads and lower speeds for less aggressive products like LSPs and glazes.

Do a search...I'm sure there are plenty of threads that can help you out.
 
Dookie,

Using the edge of the pad gives you more control, the machine doesn't wobble or want to take off on you. When I say edge, I mean the 4 inch surface from the center to the true edge. Also, I use no pressure, just the weight of the machine: With menzerna the polishes don't dry right away but break down nicely with this procedure. Results- It works for me.
 
White95Max said:
IMO, the "dual action" refers to DACP's ability to clean AND polish the paint with one product.



This is the correct meaning of the name. All Meguiar's cleaner/polishes are dual action because the abrasive break down. Thus they start out cleaning, then they end up polishing to restore gloss and clarity.



Mike
 
klnyc said:
Like Paul say, you really dont need a panel to pratice on. If you use foam pad, it's harder to burn your paint then woven. You need to keep moving thats all.



Yup, its look everyone(most) its hoppig into rotary bandwagon.:up



This is incorrect as foam generates more heat than wool pads. Many detailers think that wool pads are like the plague, to be avoided at all costs, but in reality I love to use wool pads. I know of some great new pads coming out after some further testing that will make you all look at wool in a whole different light:)



JDookie,



You may find that the 7 and 6 inch pads will run smoother...or handle better than the larger pads. The disadvantage to the smaller pads is that you cover less area.



Anthony
 
Burlyq said:
Wool pads work good but they are a freakin mess. Wool sheds everywhere.



True, some more than others.



This though won't be true for the new generation of wool/blend pads. Lake Country has a very nice wool pad out right now that has little to no shedding:xyxthumbs



Anthony
 
I am new here and I posted a few weeks ago and asked for expert advice for the products I was going to use to detail my Black MR2 Spyder which was the Menzerna get acquainted kit and my LSP being WG. I thought about investing in a PC to replace my Wax Master but after reading about the rotary buffer I couldnâ€â„¢t resist and decided to take a chance by practice on my sisters black 2000 Camry which has the same paint code as the Spyder. The Camry has never been detailed and the car was mildly oxidized and had many swirl marks. I used two 7.5 LC white polishing pads one for each product and did one horizontal panel at a time switching pads and product. For the vertical panels I did one whole side with IP then did it with FP.



I did read ever single post on rotary usage here and I watched the Meguiar's video but nothing prepared me for the actual usage. For the first time user I found if I lightly sprits the area I am going to work with water it made the rotary glide without any skipping and if I wanted to work the product a bit longer I just lightly sprits it again this of course after priming the pad. I noticed that the FP worked in well and brought out the finish, I am very pleased with the results.:) I had a bit of splatter but nothing too bad. Overall I did notice my self adjusting to how much product, movement of the machine and speed as this was a fine tuning experience. I went back and redid the first two panels when I finished the whole car because I felt that I got better at the end then in the beginning. Did I do anything blasphemous? ]:bow



Edit: I am sorry I hijacked the thread I didnâ€â„¢t realize. I just wanted to give my experience to see it could help being that I am a first time rotary user. Sorry.



This is right after polishing. No LSP has been added yet.

MVC-626F.JPG
 
Back
Top