Understanding HD Nitro Seal By 3D Products.

No...do whole car with Part A then go back to the starting point and apply Part B. You did it correctly. Just don't get it wet for atleast 24hrs and you're good.
 
Here's how I apply Nitro Seal (from this thread:) http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...w-favorite-sealant-update-video-w-part-b.html



David Fermani said:
I finally had a chance to continue testing the final version of Nitro Seal that uses 2 parts (A & B). I can honestly say that I have never experienced a protection system that uses such a unique system of components! The characteristics of the finished product are none the less amazing and complimentary of the science involved in its development. Solid colors look extremely deep, rich and glossy while metallics sparkle and pop. Each step is very easy to complete and there is really no guess work involved with their application. Removal is effortless and I have yet to witness any streaking even with +100 heat indexes coupled by S. Florida summer humidity. The feeling that this product leaves behind is thick and slippery. The following is my rendition of how I’ve been using NS thus far:



Part A is a super slippery clear fluid. 2-3 dabs on an applicator can easily do atleast ½ an entire vehicle! The closest I can describe this product is how it resembles Opti-Seal, but goes a lot further, is thicker and much wetter as it goes on the finish. Evaporation is interesting too. Immediately after application, the product begins to slowly evaporate onto the surface. After doing the entire vehicle you’ll find that 90% of the product has already dried onto the vehicle. Another quick swipe of the applicator can easily thin out any high spots to “push awayâ€�drying. There is no surface slickness after this product and it is not wiped or removed (WOWA). Here’s a few videos to further explain Part A’s application:



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Here’s how the product looks immediately after its application:



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Here’s how it and the rest of the vehicle sections look moments after full Part A application. Pay close attention to the hood section to get a baseline how quickly this thick residue evaporates moments after:





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Part B is a creamy thin fluid that goes on almost as easy as Part A. I have yet to use this via DA, but I would imagine it would work great. The key to this step is applying a very thin layer to aid in its removal. You tend to use a little more Part B than Part A, but 1-2 dabs can quickly regenerate your applicator to continue the process . 6-8 total dabs is all that is really needed to do a midsized vehicle. As it dries, it hazes like many protectants. I have noticed that if you allow this product to totally dry, its removal is slightly easier. I have also removed it immediately after too without any problems. Here’s some more videos to illustrate this the application and how the product looks as it dries:







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Finished product 24hrs after application:





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Alfisti said:
No...do whole car with Part A then go back to the starting point and apply Part B. You did it correctly. Just don't get it wet for atleast 24hrs and you're good.
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When we talk about "Don't get it wet" does that include dew?



And thanks for the update Mr Fermani
 
I would think dew is a no-no. It's still water and it sits on the surface longer than rain, etc.



I tell my clients to avoid it getting wet, including dew.
 
And that's fine, but my main issue/concern would be NS being flushed away.



I'm not 100% certain that dew won't dilute/affect the product, but I can ask Tunch.
 
I hear what you're saying.



My concern is that the moisture will interfere with the cross-linking, reducing durability.
 
So if I applied it a day or so ago ... just layer part B ... correct? But what about a month or 3 months from now. Still just layer B or can both be applied with our removal of the first application? (if it has to be removed, is a dawn soak enough or do I need an IP wipe too?)
 
I'm not really getting it. The addition of aminofunctional silicone is what makes a paint sealant a paint sealant. monton wax? there's other products with monton wax too. But I'm not sure I understand why monton wax on top of a sealant would have special properties? Is there something else I'm missing?
 
cceettaagg said:
I'm not really getting it. The addition of aminofunctional silicone is what makes a paint sealant a paint sealant. monton wax? there's other products with monton wax too. But I'm not sure I understand why monton wax on top of a sealant would have special properties? Is there something else I'm missing?
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What other products have Monton Wax?



With HD Nitro Seal, you get the durability of a polymer sealant (actually longer in many cases), with the look of a high grade wax. The only thing you're missing is out on is trying some. :thumb:



HD Nitro Seal
 
I've beed detailing a very very long time. There is no product, regardless of what has or is being said and no video's that will make a believer out of me that you can slap some of this stuff on a car and get a shine for one or even five years. It's absolutely not possible. Furthermore, it's pretty much the general rule of detailing that you "clay" your ride about every six months. So is "any" product going to prohibit brake dust, tree sap, bird bombs, etc from wrecking "anything" you use to protect it? NO!! IF I was to purchase anything that gives me a years plus protection, in order to ensure it wont hurt my already perfect paint I would go buy a junk yard hood, prep it, apply the product, let it sit outside for that year and THEN see what kind of shape it's in.
 
Welcome Oregonian!



Where do you detail?



Corners said:
I've beed detailing a very very long time. There is no product, regardless of what has or is being said and no video's that will make a believer out of me that you can slap some of this stuff on a car and get a shine for one or even five years. It's absolutely not possible. Furthermore, it's pretty much the general rule of detailing that you "clay" your ride about every six months. So is "any" product going to prohibit brake dust, tree sap, bird bombs, etc from wrecking "anything" you use to protect it? NO!! IF I was to purchase anything that gives me a years plus protection, in order to ensure it wont hurt my already perfect paint I would go buy a junk yard hood, prep it, apply the product, let it sit outside for that year and THEN see what kind of shape it's in.
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