Typical correction

To try and help explain what I'm talking about, since I don't know the proper terms, here's how I define what I'm doing:

One "Pass": performing the back-and-forth, then side-to-side pattern, 1 time, in a 3ft x 3ft section

One "Round": performing 3-4 "passes", then wiping the polish off to inspect

I'm not working on anything other than my own car right now. I was curious because, as I was testing on my hood (2006 Black Cadillac CTS-V), I had to do 3 rounds, for each the M105 and M205 just to get most of the swirlies out. So, in total w/the M105 and M205, I did 6 "rounds" on my hood and it still wasn't "perfect". That seemed excessive but I don't know what is "typical" (I understand "typical" is a relative term) for a daily driver, etc. Am I making any sense?


Yep, that makes sense to me. :)


Though all paints are different, here was a test spot on a '05 CTS-V I did last year. This was after two "rounds" of M105 on the PCXP with an orange LC pad followed by one "round" of M205 on a black LC pad.

IMG_2214.jpg




My experience, with black GM paint is that M205 doesn't finish down as well as Menzera on the DA. It does look pretty dang good, but if you look closely at my test panel some very faint micro marring could be seen after an IPA wipe down. Again, all paints are different so your results may be different.


I did also have to step up to a rotary and wool pad/M105 to remove the deeper scratches.


Rasky
 
What machine are you using?

What speed are you running the machine?

What pads are you using?

How much pressure are you applying?

Using Griot's machine (last gen, not the newest one w/the adjustable handle) at speed 4.5 with an LC Orange pad and probably about 5 - 10 lbs pressure
 
Thanks Rasky! Good info, pic and advice. I'll try again soon w/more pressure, slower moving (I was moving faster than that, but not by too much), etc. Not ready to use a rotary yet since I have no experience with one of those, but I am seriously considering taking one of the courses from Renny to get a good foundation and start.
 
Rasky nailed it for me in that I'd get a little more aggressive with each pass or "round". GM paint is, IME, pretty hard and needs to be persuauded a bit more with an approach. Don't be afraid to lean into it and slow down your "passes" a bit with overlapping passes and crank that puppy all the way up to it's fastset setting.
 
I would reduce the size of your work area to no more than 20" x 20", make sure you are not moving the polisher to fast (1-2" per sec), applying adequate pressure (15-25lbs), Speed 6, and make sure you prime the pad properly.


Check out Bryan's tips too! ;)

http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1695&highlight=m105

Very good advice :)

Rasky nailed it for me in that I'd get a little more aggressive with each pass or "round". GM paint is, IME, pretty hard and needs to be persuauded a bit more with an approach. Don't be afraid to lean into it and slow down your "passes" a bit with overlapping passes and crank that puppy all the way up to it's fastset setting.

I'm going to start calling passes rounds, as tmwfla has stated. Sometimes I feel like passing out from making all the rounds :biggrin:
 
Back
Top