Ben Z. said:Cool, good point. I am not all that familiar with the japanese tuning scene, so have a few questions:
-Do people who turbo or supercharge an NA generally go stand alone, piggyback or just get chips? I think I heard that AEM makes pretty much plug-and-play stand alones for Hondas and such for only a little over a grand. If I could get something like that for a grand for my car I'd be all over it.
-How much do a set of pistons and/or rods cost for your car to lower the compression to 9:1 or so? I'd think you'd be able to run quite a bit of boost and with a moderately sized turbo not have much lag.
-What would it cost to get a turbo, injectors (I assume), intercooler, exhaust and other required bits and pieces for one of your cars?
thanks,
Ben Z.
- The nice thing about many of the supercharger kits is that they'll put out very consistant amounts of air and therefore can be packaged with a reprogrammed ECU or a chip that doesn't really require tuning. If you're going with a homemade setup you'll need a piggyback like an SAFC or a stand-alone. The stand-alones are just over a grand but tuning them on a dyno can cost you that much again. Most true stand-alones don't just start-up and run like the car just rolled out of the factory. A lot of time and tweaking is involved.
- You can get a set of rods and pistons for a 4cyl car for about $1000. But the machine shop work will approach that much again including things like a new head-gasket, head studs, main bearings, and assembly of the engine. Then there's the labor of R&Ring the engine. A built engine including labor, parts, and services will run around $5,000 if you pay someone else to do everything. The compression ratio you want will depend on how much boost you're looking to run. Adding boost essentially raises the effective compression ratio. If you're going to get a big, slow spooling turbo that you want to run 30+psi with, a 7.5:1-8.0:1 compression ratio will be what you're looking at. If you want to run a smaller, faster spooling turbo at 15 psi, 8.5:1-9.5:1 would be more appropriate. Also keep in mind that a low compression engine will have less power when it's not under boost. So from idle-3500 (or more with a huge turbo!) you'll feel pretty gutless. The good news is once you're going you keep shifting near redline and you'll stay in the power.
- As far as turbo kits go, a well thought-out, single turbo kit often approaches $4000. A home-brew kit can be had for around $1500-$2500. Thanks to knock-off products ranging from turbos to intercoolers quality of these products varies wildy. A shiny, stainless steel tubular turbo header can be had off ebay for $250. When you get it, you'll find out the tube walls are way too thin and after vibration and heat cycles the manifold will crack and fall off your car! Supercharger kits usually start out at about the same price as turbo kits.
If you have any more questions, feel free to PM me.