Thank you Nick T - Spit Shining #16

I finally got a chance to try out Nick's spit shine suggestion. I can't recall how you applied your wax (I think that thread is gone), Nick, but I tried to be faithful to the point of spit shining.



First, I QD'd my car with Last Touch and a CBT. I washed it Sunday and it hasn't moved from the garage since. I thought the extra gloss from Last Touch might help a bit, and of course wanted any dust, etc removed from the paint.



Then I went and got the #16 and two foam apps (in case I dropped one or it got cruddy). Then I took my Quik Detailer bottle (it mists very well) that had about 4 ounces of Last Touch in it, and added about 2-3 ounces of distilled water and shook it up. I decided to use QD and water as I thought it might enhance the gloss and also be easier to work into the wax. And perhaps it's a bit like using lighter fluid and water when spit-shining boots. I chose Last Touch because it is very glossy, but also because it's the only QD I have that specifically mentions diluting it.



What I did was get some #16 wax on the foam hand applicator, then lightly spray down the whole area to be waxed. I wanted a mist over everywhere, but it had to be a very thin mist or it would be hard to work in enough. Then I worked the wax into the paint with circular motions. It took several passes over any given area to work in all the water/qd mixture until the area didn't have water beads on it.



The resultant haze seemed extra hazy, and after doing the hood, roof, and trunk I decide to buff them. Ordinarily I do the whole car with #16 and then buff. But it just looked like it was getting real hard and I was afraid it would get impossible to buff off. To my surprise, it buffed quite easily off the paint, and the surface felt very very smooth and slick. I used an Autofiber as I was thinking an Ultimate Wipe might have too much bite (the point is to try to layer the wax up) and I figured a CBT/DFTowel might not have any/enough bite. While doing this, there were some areas where I overlapped onto vertical side panels, and it was here I could really see the effect. The paint had just been QD'd with Last Touch, which by itself will make things glossy and deep, but the overlap areas were noticable in spite of that. The area that had been spit shined was clearly darker and seemed somewhat deeper. It wasn't like you could tell from 10' back, but looking at it up close in the garage, it was plainly obvious.



I then went over the rest of the car, then buffed it off. The car looks very nice now, though it looked very nice after QD'ing (and before QD'ing). I was surprised by how easily the wax buffed off and how slick it was, as #16 isn't usually overly slick. The application however is not as easy. True the applicator pad glides over the surface, but you have to go over and over each area 2-5 times to really work in (or work off, whatever it is that happens) the water/QD mixture. When you first go over it, you can see the wax on the paint, but there is water and QD smeared around beaded on it. You've got to work it until this is gone. It's almost like waxing the car 3 times in a row. While not a lot of effort to move the foam app around, you have to move it around a whole lot.



Anyway, thanks Nick T for suggesting this (or re-suggesting it if some other Autopian did this back in the past). It's really neat and does seem to add even more pow! to a great carnauba finish. I'd love to hear any tips or tricks you've come up with since first trying this out.



Edit: Oh, I should have mentioned that I hand polished the car with #80 and waxed it with #16 only about a week or so ago. So the existing wax was quite new. I'll wait until tomorrow night to apply some Bug Guard to the front, and then maybe I'll drive it to work Thursday to check it out in the sun.
 
Nice write up.



I remember Nick's post too!



DavidB recommended the spit shine initially.



I use it for Souveran with Pinnacle Crystal Mist. Talk about amazing! Plus, it extends the wax in the jar since I use less.



Also, if waxes call for a damp applicator, I use a QD like EO or #34.



This method helps with the removal of hard-drying paste waxes.
 
I tried this over Gold Class which is on the hood of the '66 Mustang AKA '66 Test Bed. The difference in clarity from one side to the other is incredible. It looks like a pool of water...I told my father to guess which side I just did, and it was a no brainer...the difference was obvious.
 
Hmm, something else to try. I had read about this before but haven't spit shined yet. I do have a sprayer that mists real well and an nearly full tin of #16.
 
6318 said:
sounds like a great time to use a pc?



I just remembered that I used to do that spit shine with AIO, since you need to wet the pad. Before getting the PC, I used to do it by hand and would work in the pannel till there was no AIO left. So there was almost no buffing. And that way I got a mirror shine out of my black car. I used to do that with my AirForce boots, work till there was no wax left



I tried AIO with the PC and never worked it as much as by hand, and the car never got that mirror shine that I got by doing it by hand.
 
Since the goal is to try to add more wax while not disturbing the layer underneath, I'd think machine application would not work all that well. But it can't hurt to try it. :)
 
Aurora40 said:
Since the goal is to try to add more wax while not disturbing the layer underneath, I'd think machine application would not work all that well. But it can't hurt to try it. :)



Yeah, they do sound like they might mutually exclusive, but I figure the water might cut down on the disturbing. With #16 I think you'd want to be aggressive enough to "liquefy" it anyhow. I'm sorta thinking I'd try to let the machine just "float across" the surface. But I also wonder if it's gonna get water everywhere- this might not be the greatest idea I've ever had :D



When you did it by hand, did you feel like you were being more gentle about it than usual?



Oh, BTW, I thought your post starting this thread was very well presented :xyxthumbs
 
Accumulator said:
When you did it by hand, did you feel like you were being more gentle about it than usual?



Well, sort of. That's why I used foam and made sure to cover everywhere with the mist. But as to rubbing it, when I usually use paste products I don't really apply much more pressure than is required to keep the pad evenly on the surface. So it was pretty gentle, but not much more so than a usual paste-waxing.



Another thing with the machine is it might be hard to make sure you work it just up until the water is gone. I don't know if that's a requirement, but once the water was gone I didn't work that area anymore. But I dunno, I guess I did it quite differently than Nick did, so I imagine a lot of ways might work. :wavey
 
Aurora40- Thanks for clarifying. Heh heh, I seem to have Cyclos on the brain these days, wanna do everything with them :o



Aurora40 said:
Well, sort of. That's why I used foam.



Hmm...do you usually use a different material to apply #16? I always use foam, but I can imagine MF working too and I did use to use terry back in the day...the foam seems a lot milder than the terry but *less* mild than MF.
 
Intersting post / wax application process



I have a question on the wax- "Are there any special requirements (Heavy paste wax/ low silicone or high oil content/etc?"
 
Accumulator said:
Hmm...do you usually use a different material to apply #16? I always use foam, but I can imagine MF working too and I did use to use terry back in the day...the foam seems a lot milder than the terry but *less* mild than MF.



Yeah, I pretty much always use foam for any protectant product. That's interesting about mf being milder than it. I'll have to try it out. :)
 
Just a reminder that all MFs aren't created equal :D



TOGWT- As best I can figure, the only thing to watch out for would be high solvent content, since that would make it harder to "layer" without disturbing previous applications. Really just a guess, though. You can ?maybe? extrapolate from shoe polish, which shares some properties with car wax and definitely *does* "layer", especially when used with this method. But then, just to muddy the waters even more :o note that some shoe polishes which work fine for this are so high in solvent content that you can light them on fire!



This is gonna lead back to the whole can/cannot :argue bit about layering (and other topics), but as long as it looks good/better to the person doing it, *that's* what counts.
 
I think the reason it works is that the water helps keep the solvent/mechanical action from affecting the layer below. So maybe the solvent content doesn't actually matter much. But also, shoe waxes are a lot softer in general than car waxes so they may just seem solventy because they are so soft and goopy. It's not like they are necessarily carnauba wax. I think you hit it with "but as long as it looks good/better to the person doing it, *that's* what counts". The point is to make it look better. I have no illusions that it will last 12 months if I just add enough layers. I don't expect this to last any longer than if I'd just waxed the car this weekend in the normal way. I was just hoping it would start to look better, and I think it does. One day I'll have to go nuts and keep doing layer after layer.



I have some picts just because I took them. I mean, the car looks pretty much the same in the picts as it does in other picts. You can maybe see the effect on the front fender in both shots, with the sharp reflection but excellent gloss too. :nixweiss



spitshine1.jpg




spitshine2.jpg
 
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