I've wondered that too.
I've used the better part of a bottle with a rotary, mostly with a wool pad or medium foam cutting pad. I used the same basic principles, except holding the pad up a little on first blush to avoid sling. I start at 1000rpm for spreading the product, then on flat panels I bump to 1800 then to 2200. On side panels I do 1000-1400-1800.
The product still takes time to work in, and needs the heat to break it down. I put mf towels on the bottom of the window to collect dust (hard to clean area).
I get no haze left over. With a foam pad, not much dusting at all, much less than my commercial cut polish. With a wool pad I still get dusting, enough that it needs a full wipe down between steps.
It is not like cut polishes and compounds in that it doesn't use water to break it down, but heat along. That is helpful for me when doing a quick job like scratch repair. It is not as quick at bringing back wet(color)-sanding marks, but because the dust content is lower, on spot jobs I prefer it.
But the car must be dry. Water clogs the pad and doesn't help the product. It can causing bouncing with a foam pad at lower rpm, or with a wool pad it leaves little speckled residue (any polish can do this if it gets wet then heated too quickly, but 2.5 especially does it). Not too hard to remove the speckling, but it means putting the 2.5 onto the speckled area and hitting the panel again.
So far I haven't had significant marring with 2.5 and any pad, despite some serious work. And one step was always enough to follow it, either SSR1, a PB polish, a commercial polish, or the Farecla G10 I use sometimes.
Hope that helps, though Steve may have more.
