Simoniz GlassCoat advice

S

SakiN

New member
So I have Simoniz GlassCoat on my car, which the dealership applied, and I am wondering what the best way of striping off this coating would be if possible. Car has 800 miles on it so far and usually wears some LSP layered over the GlassCoat, so its barely worn/weathered.

I have some OptiCoat coming later this week, if anyone has experience with the GlassCoat treatment I would value any advice. Advice on how to remove the Glasscoat or if I can just treat it like any other sealant and strip accordingly. I am guessing that I will need some type of DA and polishes/cutting compounds. Has anyone had success topping GlassCoat with other permanent/semi-permenant nano coatings or OptiCoat?

BTW, the dealership applied this in 30 minutes while I waited for the paperwork and stuff to run through their systems. 30 minutes total for both the GlassCoating and the interior teflon textile protection. They may have used heat guns but I doubt it, and I don't know the properties of Glasscoat and whether it cures super fast. Point is I didn't even know about the stuff until I got the car (first new car) and maybe should have done some research on it before getting it applied. The stuff is not scratch resistant to the point of being worth even 10% of its price, and is hydrophilic not hydrophobic (i prefer the beading).

I have also read it doesn't last long and is more like a very good sealant's life cycle. Anyway, have a screwed myself out of being able to apply OptiCoat since I don't own any polishing tools?
 
i doubt it is on there strong like cquarts or opti-coat, im betting either a light polish with something like po85rd on a black pad or am205 on a black pad will work to remove it mechanically. chemically can try some prep solvent which you can find at car quest if they have a paint department. fyi, never fall into the dealership coatings, most of the time they are a scam. also you dont have teflon on your seat, its probably the same active ingredient in scotchguard professional or 303 high tech fabric guard. teflon does not bond until a very high temp, if it was applied at that high temp, well you would not have a seat left. as far as screwing yourself out of opti-coat, doubtfull as you can remove it. however the surface needs to be near perfect before applying the opti-coat as it would be pointless to seal in the swirls and scratches you cannot remove once the opti-coat is applied. but since you need to do this i would do a full two step proccess on your paint as im pretty sure it has dealer applied swirls. so something along the lines of the blackfire SRC compound and blackfire polish, meguiars m105 and meguiars m205, optimum hyper compound spray and hyper compound polish should all be a great 2 step (apply compounds with 5.5" orange FLAT lc pad on da and polishes using a white or black lc 5.5" flat pad) and it will remove the simonize product as well as remove any existing swirl marks/defects in your paint.

edit: since you are in CT you can get the microfiber DA system and the meguiars DA at these two walmarts located in ct(im from rhode island and my dad lives there so i keep an eye out for stuff like this for him)

CT BRISTOL 1400 FARMINGTON AVE
CT WATERBURY 910 WOLCOTT ST

good luck!
 
Thanks opie_7afe for the info, Im going to look into the orbitals and DA's. Thanks for the edit as well, how easy is the meguiars DA to operate, I have never used an orbital sander or DA. I would guess they all operate the same and are the same in terms of difficulty(in my case)/ease of use.

Do you have Opticoat on your car?
 
DA's are very easy to use. the more difficult part would be keeping the pad flat and keeping rotation going. however, not all DA's are the same, the cheap ones cannot correct any defects and are best used to spread wax as they do not have enough power to keep a pad rotating under pressure. so a griots garage,meguiars G110v2, porter cable 7424xp/7346sp DA's will fit the bill for what you are wanting to achieve. i do not have opti-coat on my vehicle as it has so many deep scratches from the previous owner that i would need extensive wet sanding or a repaint to fix....
 
Unfortunately dealerships are known for only one thing; sucking your wallet dry...period.

The only product I'm aware of that's applied in 30 minutes is a spray wax, something like Optimum Spray Wax or Duragloss AquaWax..

A quality dual action polisher should be a top priority in your quest to improve and maintain your vehicle's finish..

Spend some time reading articles on the How To page. The information there is invaluable and will really help aid in understanding the different processes.

Car Detailing How To Information
 
A Permanon-like silicate product could conceivably be applied in 30min (Spray gun liberally and rinse off) though... just giving the benefit of the doubt =)
 
Thanks for the input guys, I really should have done some homework before getting that coating at the stealership. Thanks BobbyG, Ill being reading all I can find and that link you pointed out is a perfect place to start.

Also thanks Niebelung, I really don't know much about cure times on all the various ceramic coatings and your input makes me more satisfied that I didn't pay for nothing, but double edged because I can't just throw on my OC. Especially since I did a full CG Wash n Gloss strip and used the open hose rinse off and it did appear to have a coating-type sheeting and left the car fairly dry. The only thing is, I have not seen the sheeting action/properties on my car with 100% bare paint since the coating was done on the spot.

If I had no Glasscoating on my car I would be satisfied with the state of the clear coat and apply the OC (car was inside in the show floor), with zero swirling but slight almost non existent wash scratching (done by me). That said would something like Ultima Paint Prep Plus Pre-wax Polish, and done by hand be enough to allow the OC to bond to the car? :(

If not Im looking at the Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424XP HD kit. it comes with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 + Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 + orange pad + gray pad.

Thanks again guys
 
the wolfgang kit will work but you will need to clean that one pad every panel or after a few sections, so its best to have more then 1 pad of each color, bare minimum is 2 orange 2 white 2 grey....imo id go with a product that DOES NOT have diminishing abrasives as those can be more tricky for a new guy to learn as you need to be able to tell when the product has broken down ect. so basically id use a product with super micro abrasive technology such as the meguiars m105/m205(m205 might just work on a white pad) or the optimum compound/polish. the optimum compounds are not as harsh nor do they have much of a learning curve compared to m105. and remember when you do order get FLAT PADS....we always try to maximize correctional power with a DA yet some choose to use CCS pads which does not maximize the machines ability due to less surface area in contact with the paint. also do not use a pad bigger then 5.5" and 7/8" thick as you wont get the best correctional power, 6.5" pads and ccs pads are fine for waxing. it does cost alittle bit up front but you can make that money back by doing a few polish jobs for some friends as well if you want to recover some of that cash...
 
I would not strip the G3 simoniz glasscoat. I actualy prefere it over OC.

It's a great coating and it will easily protect your coat for,at least, two years. Beads the same as OC.
 
there is no way it is better then OC, have you looked at the msds?, its more along the lines of a normal sealant then OC.... only reason how it will last long is if it gets reapplied by the dealer which it states in the contract. i don't trust anything a dealer tries to sell unless its a part or some accessories i am buying. i was looking into this as another option for when i expand to coatings and i will never put it on customers cars. just my opinion on the matter. the OP is clearly wanting the stuff removed. and of course OC will look different, its a totally different animal. cant judge protection on beading...heck id rather something that sheets which would be less water to dry when you wash. fresh paint beads like a nice coat of wax, don't mean i wont protect the paint after its done curing. i think the op will stick with the original plan. the way i see it is, if the top detailers in the country use a product and their customers are happy then that is the product id want on my vehicle. i dont see any of the top detailers using simonize anything so it will remain on the "dealership ripoff" list. but if you like it then thats great.
 
SakiN said:
Thanks for the input guys, I really should have done some homework before getting that coating at the stealership. Thanks BobbyG, Ill being reading all I can find and that link you pointed out is a perfect place to start.

Also thanks Niebelung, I really don't know much about cure times on all the various ceramic coatings and your input makes me more satisfied that I didn't pay for nothing, but double edged because I can't just throw on my OC. Especially since I did a full CG Wash n Gloss strip and used the open hose rinse off and it did appear to have a coating-type sheeting and left the car fairly dry. The only thing is, I have not seen the sheeting action/properties on my car with 100% bare paint since the coating was done on the spot.

If I had no Glasscoating on my car I would be satisfied with the state of the clear coat and apply the OC (car was inside in the show floor), with zero swirling but slight almost non existent wash scratching (done by me). That said would something like Ultima Paint Prep Plus Pre-wax Polish, and done by hand be enough to allow the OC to bond to the car? :(

If not Im looking at the Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424XP HD kit. it comes with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 + Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 + orange pad + gray pad.

Thanks again guys
Click to expand...

I would go with the Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424 XP HD kit. The Menzerna twins are going to give you far more polishing power then Ultima Paint Prep Plus. The Ultima is a great product, but it contains bonding agents to allow the Ultima Paint Guard Plus paint sealant to bond to the paint. These chemical 'primers' must be stripped off the paint in order to give it a clean surface for the OptiCoat to bond to.
 
opie_7afe said:
there is no way it is better then OC, have you looked at the msds?, its more along the lines of a normal sealant then OC.... only reason how it will last long is if it gets reapplied by the dealer which it states in the contract. i don't trust anything a dealer tries to sell unless its a part or some accessories i am buying. i was looking into this as another option for when i expand to coatings and i will never put it on customers cars. just my opinion on the matter. the OP is clearly wanting the stuff removed. and of course OC will look different, its a totally different animal. cant judge protection on beading...heck id rather something that sheets which would be less water to dry when you wash. fresh paint beads like a nice coat of wax, don't mean i wont protect the paint after its done curing. i think the op will stick with the original plan. the way i see it is, if the top detailers in the country use a product and their customers are happy then that is the product id want on my vehicle. i dont see any of the top detailers using simonize anything so it will remain on the "dealership ripoff" list. but if you like it then thats great.
Click to expand...

I suppose you have used Opticoat, Cquartz and compared them with G3 glasscoat, right? You are clearly judging the book by its cover since you are saying that "no top detailer" are using it. I can say that G3 glasscoat perform very well and I have also OC in my collection and I, as I said, prefere G3. G3 is sold in Europe and they guarantee 5 years of protection and without reapplying the product. I have used it for over a year and it wears like a rock on all the cars I have applied it on.

_______

Anyways, if you want to remove it just give it a proper polish with a light polish and make give it a wipedown with a silicone remover and you are good to coat it with OC.
 
that is not the point, the point is the OP does not want it on his car so therefore i am going to give him the best advice of my abilities. i have not used any of them but from what i have witnessed and read reviews on id rather use OC or CQ before simonize. i prefer to not use products that is recognized as a product stealerships use...i dont care how well it works and the even reading simonize webpage the guarantee is only there if you return which they apply more product....we will agree to disagree.
 
never heard of it, but here is some info....

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boQ5unUxjuY]Simoniz GlassCoat Field Test (PFT) - YouTube[/ame]
 
OK you got my curiosity up...I feel I have tried everything fro Adam's to Zaino.
Simoniz Glasscoat is one I have not tried...So I purchased it to try out & test.
I also recently saw an article on Modern Marvels extolling this products virtues.
You know folks, Simoniz is not a name we hear much in these circles any more.


Anyway, I ordered it.
It's on it's way. I'll post my results.
I only purchased the "exterior" product(s).
You know..."Don't knock it if you ain't tried it."

First Thought:
I've seen reports where $tealerships get between $500-$800 to apply this product to your "new" vehicle.
It could be the greatest stuff on earth but anything installed by auto $tealerships will get a bad rap.

Second Thought:
To me it looks like a WOWO product. There may be "tricks" to the application but it looks straight forward.
Folks that have applied it like the results and they state that it's a great product and it works very well.

Things Learned:
You can wax on top and it can be removed with a polisher. I'll apply it to a daily driver & see how it works & looks.

Come on folks we've all purchased products that did or didn't live up to it's hype. I give it a go and let you know.
 
Preliminary testing...

I received three products in the package
Two System 5 products and the Glasscoat.

Liquid Wash Solution & Paint Protection Coating

SimonizSystem5.jpg


System 5
Liquid Wash Solution 4fl oz
Clear Pink/Red in color.
The bottle states to add it to one gallon of water
I'm not sure what it's real purpose is besides cleaning the paint.

Paint Protection Coating 4fl oz
White cream like product.
The bottle states can be applied by hand or machine
I applied it with a PC speed 3 with a 5" LC black flat pad.
The bottle states...Remove with terry bonnet on orbital.
I found this the easiest way to remove the slightly stubborn product.

Results (so far) after application.
The Wash Solution was a good product. I'm not sure if it's "special".
The Paint Protection Coating left a slightly darker and slicker finish.

SimonizGlasscoat.jpg


It was suggested to me to wait after PPC before applying Glasscoat.

"Glass coat is the last thing after you apply the System 5 coating.
System 5 acts the same as Glasscoat but for a short period of time.
When you apply both you're building two layers of paint protection.
Be sure surface is dry, dirt or dust free surface before you apply the PPC.
After you apply PPC let it dry then remove it with a polishing tool."
(PPC dries hard and white and is a bit too stubborn to remove by hand)
"You need to completely remove any PPC substance on the surface.
Wait approx. 30 mins then apply Glasscoat.
...it is not necessary to apply glasscoat after ppc. You can use it on your next wash"

We've seen the above video for sheeting and we don't need to see another picture of a shiny hood.

So here's a video from Modern Marvels

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ7bnTQDPcU]Simoniz Glass Coat as Featured on Modern Marvels - YouTube[/ame]

I have not applied the Glasscoat product to the paint yet. I'll keep you posted with my results.
 
Well to try it I thought I'd experiment on my 150k miles DD. If I screwed it up no great loss.

Application:
I washed, clayed and washed the car. One little 2oz bottle is enough to only do one car.
I used a cotton pad applicator poured a little on the pad & wiped front to back on the hood.
It is a very thin liquid (almost like water) and felt super slick when being applied to the paint.

I waited until it hazed to a purple, similar to what a soapy water looks like, then removed it.
I used a quality microfiber towel for removal. I found it only slightly stubborn in a few areas.
All in all it probably was the easiest product to apply and remove that I have EVER used.
Apply to a panel with straight overlapping strokes. Let haze to light purple and wipe off.
From what I understand that's it. No cure time (just 5 minutes) unlike traditional polymers.
10 minutes all done.

Look and feel when I finished.
A slight slick feel, not over slick but not grabby (squeaky clean) like some other coatings.
It has a nice shiny gloss. Not the depth and warmth of a fine Carnuaba or Saran Wrap shiny.

Longevity and Durability:
For me and this application it's too early to tell. If it lasts as long as the claims I'll be happy.

Warnings:
There are a few warnings on the bottle you need to be aware of. Highly flammable, toxic etc.
Also noted is the requirement that it can ONLY be applied in the shade out of direct sunlight.
So wear gloves if it makes you comfortable. Don't take internally and ONLY apply in the shade.

This stuff actually sheets water. It's not for tiny beads. Oh Boy another picture of water beads!
NOTE: It started to lightly rain about 20 minutes after I applied it and here's what it looked like.
SimoizGlassCoat.jpg
 
Here's a 3 month update.

IMHO
The product has "no" look.
It does not "look" any better or like anything.
The product has a funky feel to it.
Kinda like the feel of urethane on top of wood?

Now on to the good part. Hurricane Sandy is upon us and I'm typing this post.
I went outside and the hydrophobic beading looks better than when I applied it.

It still looks exactly like the picture above or maybe even better with a little time.

Side Note: I recently had to park under a big tree and the birds took target practice.
It was covered. I hit it with a hose (nothing special) and it all melted away no issues.

The only thing I have done to the car since it was applied was just rinse it with a hose.
I would recommend this product for a DD where the priority was long lasting protection.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top