SilverStars
- Thread starter Wasatch
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JasonD
New member
Spilchy said:
White_F150 said:
I've had them in my Expedition for a little over a year now with no problems whatsoever. Now, for some reason, I went through two sets of foglamps in my Explorer, but I think I had a moisture issue with that one because when I replaced the actual foglamp housings, I never had the problem again. I don't have a package in front of me, but I'm sure there's some kind of warranty if they fail prematurely.
JDookie said:
Well, I guess I got close to the life expectancy. Here is a FAQ from their website:
2. What is the life expectancy of SilverStar?
The life expectancy of a SilverStar halogen light source is dependent on the driver’s use of the lights, which vary by season, time of day and number of miles driven. We estimate the SilverStar halogen lights to have a life span of up to one year under average driving conditions.
They recommend that you replace the lights every fall? :think:
Wasatch
New member
White_F150 said:
Not to happy about that, basically $50 a year. Will see how long mine last.
JasonD
New member
It's just like any light bulb. Sometimes they last a long time and sometimes they don't. Luck of the draw I guess. All I know is that I've had mine a year and they are still working like new. Keep in mind too, it's not like all your bulbs will go out all at once the same time every year. You may have one fail after a year, and another after 2 years. Who knows.
SpoiledMan
New member
I have a soon to be 10 years old Legend that hasn't had a single bulb replaced. All OEM and all working.
I have thought about some Silverstars but I'm also considering just getting a HID kit.
I have thought about some Silverstars but I'm also considering just getting a HID kit.
White95Max
New member
Well I installed my Silverstars today. As with many things, it was a total PITA the first time, but I could replace another set in under 5 min. 
The connectors just didn't want to come off, so I had to pry the rubber seal off part way, and reach in there to disconnect the bulb holding spring. Then the bulb/seal/connector came out as one piece and I was able to get the connector off.
So here's a couple shots showing the difference. Obviously the driver's side has the Silverstar.
The connectors just didn't want to come off, so I had to pry the rubber seal off part way, and reach in there to disconnect the bulb holding spring. Then the bulb/seal/connector came out as one piece and I was able to get the connector off.So here's a couple shots showing the difference. Obviously the driver's side has the Silverstar.
White95Max
New member
Definitely. And just to clarify, the 1st shot is with the flash on, 2nd with flash off. It's not one with brights on, one with brights off. Although I may have to take a pic comparing the high beams as well.
imported_KEVIN
New member
Spilchy said:
But if you were to go out and buy even OEM lamps and put them in that 10yr old car they would be much brighter, that's why when you change out burnt bulbs you always buy two to even out the projection of the lamps. They yellow with age.
I have had Silverstars in my truck since new and I will get about 21/2 to 3yrs out of them and my lights are on anytime the engines running they last pretty well.
Kevin
Wasatch
New member
Good to hear that Kevin.
I have done a good bit of research on this.
I have Silverstars in my '03 Cobra. A nice upgrade. I even went to the Silverstar 9005s as opposed to the factory 9145s...BIG difference.
I also put a set in my G/Fs Jetta...she is very pleased.
Like many other newer Fords, my '05 Excursion uses a new bulb, the H13 or 9008. These are not made as Silverstars as DOT regulations will not allow a coated bulb.
As far as an import Silverstar or the like....all they can do is throw more light. The light pattern will not change as that is decided by the lense. The actual light pattern, cut-off, etc, is not affected by a bulb. In older cars with the round or rectangular replacement bulbs, there could be a difference, especially when changing to a Euro spec lamp.
There are many companies that make bulbs you may see in stores or on ebay. Some claim to make XX watts of light while using no more power than your standard bulb. BS. To make more light, you must consume more power. A slight increase in perceived light is possible, like Xtravisions, by moving the filament...but not a double increase. These bulbs can be the cause of your wiring harness melting or burning as it was not designed for that much of a load. The formula for figuring out how much power a bulb will use is to divide the rated wattage of the bulb by the voltage. For example, a 60W 12V bulb would require 5A of power.
Xtravisions were also mentioned. According to Sylvania, Xtravisions offer the same "brightness" as Silverstars, but at the standard halogen color. This works by not adding wattage, but by adjusting the relationship of the filament in the bulb itself.
Finally, HIDs. Unless equipped from the factory..switching to an HID set-up is completley illegal. In most states, you won't even pass inspection.
I have Silverstars in my '03 Cobra. A nice upgrade. I even went to the Silverstar 9005s as opposed to the factory 9145s...BIG difference.
I also put a set in my G/Fs Jetta...she is very pleased.
Like many other newer Fords, my '05 Excursion uses a new bulb, the H13 or 9008. These are not made as Silverstars as DOT regulations will not allow a coated bulb.
As far as an import Silverstar or the like....all they can do is throw more light. The light pattern will not change as that is decided by the lense. The actual light pattern, cut-off, etc, is not affected by a bulb. In older cars with the round or rectangular replacement bulbs, there could be a difference, especially when changing to a Euro spec lamp.
There are many companies that make bulbs you may see in stores or on ebay. Some claim to make XX watts of light while using no more power than your standard bulb. BS. To make more light, you must consume more power. A slight increase in perceived light is possible, like Xtravisions, by moving the filament...but not a double increase. These bulbs can be the cause of your wiring harness melting or burning as it was not designed for that much of a load. The formula for figuring out how much power a bulb will use is to divide the rated wattage of the bulb by the voltage. For example, a 60W 12V bulb would require 5A of power.
Xtravisions were also mentioned. According to Sylvania, Xtravisions offer the same "brightness" as Silverstars, but at the standard halogen color. This works by not adding wattage, but by adjusting the relationship of the filament in the bulb itself.
Finally, HIDs. Unless equipped from the factory..switching to an HID set-up is completley illegal. In most states, you won't even pass inspection.
Just a few corrections to terminology...
Power is calculated by voltage (V) * current (A) and is measured in watts (W). In your example, 5A (amps) is the amount of current going through the bulb. Power would still be 60W though.
Light output is generally measured in lumens (lm). Yes, you generally do need more power to generate more light, but various lights have various efficiencies. For example, HID lights will produce more visible light per watt than a Krypton bulb.
-Dacali
Matt M said:
Power is calculated by voltage (V) * current (A) and is measured in watts (W). In your example, 5A (amps) is the amount of current going through the bulb. Power would still be 60W though.
Matt M said:
Light output is generally measured in lumens (lm). Yes, you generally do need more power to generate more light, but various lights have various efficiencies. For example, HID lights will produce more visible light per watt than a Krypton bulb.
-Dacali
Dacali....light is measured in lumens, but for this discussion, I figured I'd keep it simple.
You're correct that true HIDs will use less in wattage...but require much more voltage, which is why they require ballasts. I have yet to see a "true" HID lamp that replaces a factory 9005 for example by just replacing a bulb.
My comparison is based on the typical 12V bulbs,(or in more correct lighting terms) lamps. There are lamps that claim to have a much higher output..yet use the same power. I know my local shop has lamps that are rated as 110, when the standard lamp was a 55. Obviously, this 110 w lamp will have to use more power. It was mentioned as a "heads-up" to others. I have seen the melted harnesses.
The Silverstars, Xtravisions, etc are all halogens. The Silverstars are a coated lamps that causes the "whitesh" light. According to Sylvania, the Xtravisions share the same filament technology as the Silverstars, hence the same actual output.
As far as the equation I used is concerned...it's correct. If you only know the wattage of the lamp, and the voltage...one can determine the power usage. I even double checked with a friend that designs and restores lighting fixtures.
You're correct that true HIDs will use less in wattage...but require much more voltage, which is why they require ballasts. I have yet to see a "true" HID lamp that replaces a factory 9005 for example by just replacing a bulb.
My comparison is based on the typical 12V bulbs,(or in more correct lighting terms) lamps. There are lamps that claim to have a much higher output..yet use the same power. I know my local shop has lamps that are rated as 110, when the standard lamp was a 55. Obviously, this 110 w lamp will have to use more power. It was mentioned as a "heads-up" to others. I have seen the melted harnesses.
The Silverstars, Xtravisions, etc are all halogens. The Silverstars are a coated lamps that causes the "whitesh" light. According to Sylvania, the Xtravisions share the same filament technology as the Silverstars, hence the same actual output.
As far as the equation I used is concerned...it's correct. If you only know the wattage of the lamp, and the voltage...one can determine the power usage. I even double checked with a friend that designs and restores lighting fixtures.
Matt M said:
The equation you used is correct. Power = Voltage * Current. You're just mistaking current for power. The watt (W) rating is the (estimated) power consumption of the light. You're only finding the amount of current the lamp is drawing.
I'm only stating that (in general) not all types of lamps produce the same amount of lumens per watt.
-Dacali
Matt M said:
All I know is the Osram SilverStars have a noticably longer and wider beam with a very sharp, HID-like cut off point. Shine them on a wall and you can see lots of light below the cut line and nothing above. The Osrams are not coated either but the light is still quite white looking. Not sure how they managed that. My son has the XtraVisions in his car and while less yellow than standard halogens, the Osrams are noticably whiter.
On two lane roads, the beam pattern lights up both sides of the road with room to spare!
This is what I am talking about with the Osram SilverStars. Note not only the brightness but how the light is cut off completely at a certain height. Same wattage but it appears if the bulb's innards are tweaked to throw all the light on the road.
Actually, not a bad shot for a camera phone.
Actually, not a bad shot for a camera phone.
imported_Neothin
New member
all this lighting talk has got me wanted to add a set of driving lamps to augment the stock lighting on the tC. Can anyone recommend a decent pair of driving lamps (not fog lamps, i want the light to be projected forward sharply vs spread out like a fog lamp)? I was looking at some PIAA 2100XT lamps, but there's so many choices I just don't know. Price $200ish
Matt M said:
:nixweiss I have had the stock bulbs, regular Silverstars and a European spec Phillips bulb (can't remember the exact name) and I never noticed the cut off line being sharp like that until I got the Osrams. In addition, the beam pattern is a lot wider and longer. How they do that with standard wattage, I don't know.