Quick Menzerna PO106FF Review

A

ALTANertive

New member
Got some PO106FF from AG when it was on sale. It was time for the yearly detail on my car so I went straight to this after claying since the paint condition is still very good except for your everyday rock chips and stuff. Used this with a PC on speed 6. This stuff was VERY easy to use. Personally, I think it's easier than the Optimum line of polishes and compounds. The only drawback is the dusting. Compared to Optimum stuff it was like a dust storm. I did a 50/50 iso wipe down afterwards but I really wanted to wash it again. I probably would have if it wasn't dark out. As for results, I think they were great. This is going to be the final polish for me from now on. The clarity it gives the paint is much better than OP. I just wish it didn't dust so much.



Cliff's: PO106FF is awesome.



Pro's

-VERY easy to use

-great clarity



Con's

-Dustier than the lint trap in your dryer
 
I use the Blackfire Scratch Resistant Clear Finishing Polish (say that five times fast :) ) and love the stuff (basically same as 106FF). Cuts pretty well, easy to use and results are second to none.



I can put up with the dust with the results that I get. IPA wipes and following up with a cleaner type product (ZAIO, KAIO) revealed no real filling abilities.
 
MotorCity said:
Add a drop of optimum polish on your pad and the dust will be a thing of the past
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Ive tried it and it still dust lightly. The only two polishes that Ive tried that doesnt dust at all is High Temp and Optimum.
 
well you need a rewash either ways, I rather wax or seal after making sure there

is no smudges, oils on the panel or even left over polish, rewashing is a

very good habit.
 
Hey pal, add 5 to 10 ml of glycerin per every 125ml and it wont dust and will work longer for you when burnishing it at 700 to 900 rpm or low speed on PC
 
I have only used it over this past week, I have experienced very very little to zero dusting, you should try using a little less product, optimum will dust if you use too much as well.
 
SVR said:
Hey pal, add 5 to 10 ml of glycerin per every 125ml and it wont dust and will work longer for you when burnishing it at 700 to 900 rpm or low speed on PC
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How/Where do you get glycerin?
 
any supermarket/hardware store/walmart etc should have it

Mine is by faulding and comes in 200ml bottle



I'm sure you could find it in a larger size in the US. you guys have everything
 
edge pads and menzerna can equal alot of dust whereas LC's it's not so much

I hate dust, a finishing polish shouldn't dust much or at all so I made sure.
 
106ff is a great polish, but in my experience needs to be worked a long time to ensure is properly remove the defects.



Also, I stand by the fact that it indeed fills and that a 50/50 wipe doesn't remove the bonded fillers. This doesn't mean that 106ff is a "filler" or was designed to fill, but this a by product of the polish, that it can give misleading results.



The detailers I speak with, then more than a few that have PM'd me all agree and have experience the same phenomen.



Bryan (gmblack3a) and I polished a Ferrari F430, and both us will assure you that finish was 100 percent flawless in direct sun from many many angles. I would say we spent 45 mintues exaimining it after a 50/50 wipe and a rewash.



Brian (VASuperiorShine) will attest that the car had VERY minor wool marring now present on the rear fender (VERY minor but noticable in direct light). This is where Bryan (gmblack) used a very light cut (Edge Green) wool to remove defects. After I polished with 106ff, it looked amazingly perfect (not suprising consdering the soft Ferrari paint). Now this small section had the amazing return of micro marring. Of course we repolished the area back to perfection.



I have also left cars that I have polished (but not sealed) in the sun, and several times, holograms or marring appeared in the paint several hours after looking perfect (I watched them appear). In these cases, I went from a strong polish to a light one.



My point is that 106ff is a great finishing polish, but don't expect to much from it in terms of power. The cut is VERY light, and should only be used to take a near perfect finish to the next and final level. It really doesn't have the cut to remove defects, and in my experience, will hide them for a while.



Remember that it was orginally designed to work with the make up of Cerma-clear finishes, and was orginaly marketed as such... T
 
106ff is a VERY MILD polish and should not be used to take out defects. It pretty much removes ultra light micro marring and it takes a perfect finish and brings it to an absolute ultimate gloss.



I use it mainly as a burnishing polish to take my gloss level from a 9 to a show stopping perfect 10.



It does work good with a pc, but really does amazing wonders by rotary.
 
Thanks for the tips on less dusting.



TH0001 & rydawg: I completely agree. It has very little cut. On the Menzerna shart it says it's a 2 or a 3 (I forget), but it's really maybe 1 or 1.5. The paint condition was still good and I didn't see anything that needed a polish with more cut.
 
rydawg said:
106ff is a VERY MILD polish and should not be used to take out defects. It pretty much removes ultra light micro marring and it takes a perfect finish and brings it to an absolute ultimate gloss.



I use it mainly as a burnishing polish to take my gloss level from a 9 to a show stopping perfect 10.



It does work good with a pc, but really does amazing wonders by rotary.
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That's pretty much exactly what I said in this thread, http://autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/95476-menzerna-you-prefer-po106-ip.html but I was pretty much spanked for it. Guess there's alot of people that use 106ff for correcting purposes. Go figure. Personally, I'd rather use 106ff exactly as I stated in that thread, and as Rydawg is quoted above, and save correcting work for the appropriate polish. Saves time, saves effort. But that's *just me*. :)
 
SuperBee364 said:
That's pretty much exactly what I said in this thread, http://autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/95476-menzerna-you-prefer-po106-ip.html but I was pretty much spanked for it. Guess there's alot of people that use 106ff for correcting purposes. Go figure. Personally, I'd rather use 106ff exactly as I stated in that thread, and as Rydawg is quoted above, and save correcting work for the appropriate polish. Saves time, saves effort. But that's *just me*. :)
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What would you use as a more correcting polish in the Menzerna line??? SIP or IP then? ???
 
Pats300zx said:
What would you use as a more correcting polish in the Menzerna line??? SIP or IP then? ???
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I would use SIP or IP. SIP is the better polish, but from time to time it may act up if it is damp or the car is not completly 100% clean and free of any old waxes.



SIP is one of the best med. correction polishes out there in my opinion.



There are two different IP's. AG sells one in the 32oz. bottle and CMA has their version which is sold in the smaller containers with a handle on them. CMA's version dust more cause it works at a slower rpm like 1000-1200 rpm. AG's version dust less and can be worked at a higher rpm and has more lubrication in it.



Sounds strange, but I have used both lots and they are both different.
 
SuperBee364 said:
That's pretty much exactly what I said in this thread, http://autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/95476-menzerna-you-prefer-po106-ip.html but I was pretty much spanked for it. Guess there's alot of people that use 106ff for correcting purposes. Go figure. Personally, I'd rather use 106ff exactly as I stated in that thread, and as Rydawg is quoted above, and save correcting work for the appropriate polish. Saves time, saves effort. But that's *just me*. :)
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The problem is I have seen (and experienced first hand) 106ff "fill" or mask defects up to a month. I strongly believe it is because the polish was designed for MB paint specificaly and may react differently when used on soft paint. I have only had this problem on soft paint.



Use 106 or SIP on softer paint and feel the surface, hot! hot! hot!. Use it on hard paint (Corvette, MB, Audi, ect...) and it glides like butter and the surface stays cool to the touch. When Menzerna first marketed the product, it specificaly said for SCR paint. Since then, they have backed off that, but I heard (maybe not true) that in Europe, the containers say that it doesn't work on all paints.



When they work, they are the most amazing polishes I have ever used. When they act up, they can be funny. Because the potential is their for some filling on softer paints, as long as you are smart about it (If it is seems like it is doing more correction then a finishing polish should, then it is probably filling). Its better safe then sorry.



I have found myself using SIP more for correction, then finishing with 3M's new Ultra Fina 3000, which suprisingly, doesn't seem to mask anything.
 
rydawg said:
I would use SIP or IP. SIP is the better polish, but from time to time it may act up if it is damp or the car is not completly 100% clean and free of any old waxes.



SIP is one of the best med. correction polishes out there in my opinion.



There are two different IP's. AG sells one in the 32oz. bottle and CMA has their version which is sold in the smaller containers with a handle on them. CMA's version dust more cause it works at a slower rpm like 1000-1200 rpm. AG's version dust less and can be worked at a higher rpm and has more lubrication in it.



Sounds strange, but I have used both lots and they are both different.
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Totally agree. I also really like Blackfire Scratch Resistant Compound.



There's a new contender in the medium SRC polish category that I'm dying to try out, as well: Einszett Intensive Paste. I just got the Einszett SRC finishing polish (Einszett Hochglanz or High Gloss Polish) (contender to 106ff), and it smells, looks, and feels just like 106ff. The only difference is the color. 106ff is grey, while the Einszett is kinda greenish. I'm wondering if they are getting the stuff from Menzerna and selling it as their own brand. Will be interesting to see if the Intensiv Polish looks, feels, and smells like SIP. The stuff is half the price of the Menzerna equivalents.



SIP to correct, 106ff to finish.



I have noticed the filling effect the OP mentions with 106ff. I have had some luck getting the effect minimized with IPA wipedowns, but never 100%. Using dual halogens and various angles allows you to see what is left over after using 106ff, but it is a major hassle to do so. Even so, I wouldn't trade 106ff for nothin'. It dusts, it hides defects (making it a pain to see what still needs to be corrected), and I couldn't be happier.
 
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