Question for PC users that switched to Rotary?

J

jw

New member
I'm still having a tough time deciding if I should make the switch to the rotary or spend some more time with the pc. Does anyone that switched to a Rotary wish they wouldn't of, or people who switched but still prefer the PC?



Thanks
 
A rotary can do so much more than any other machine. Once you learn how to perfect a finish with a rotary, you will very rarly use the pc.



I have played with my pc to do correction but it has limits on what it can do. I would not even be a detailer if I did not have a rotary.
 
rydawg said:
A rotary can do so much more than any other machine. Once you learn how to perfect a finish with a rotary, you will very rarly use the pc.



I have played with my pc to do correction but it has limits on what it can do. I would not even be a detailer if I did not have a rotary.
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:werd: I hate using my PC now. Too much vibration for me to deal with. Paint correction takes long enough on hammered cars with a rotary. If for some reason I could no longer use a rotary when detailing, I would think about not detailing anymore.
 
gmblack3a said:
:werd: I hate using my PC now. Too much vibration for me to deal with. Paint correction takes long enough on hammered cars with a rotary. If for some reason I could no longer use a rotary when detailing, I would think about not detailing anymore.
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haha, I agree Bryan and you definatly know what I mean as you do a lot of correction work via rotary. I have spent up to 15 hours straight on a rotary with some jobs just to get 100% perfect. I could not see getting the same finish with a pc ever. You could never gain the clarity, extreme gloss, richness, sharpness, flaw free finish with a pc or random orbital. A pc can do some good correction to soft paint that has been taken care of but it still lacks big time in all the above.



I remember when my Hitachi went on a long break cause I overheated it too much and it started to shoot flames out (looked awesome and I was proud):spot and I had to finish with my pc. I was able to get some of the correction out but was lacking in sharpness and clarity BIG TIME. I took apart my Hitachi and repaired it and I finished the car to my likings.:bigups
 
You've got some great opinions from rotary lovers so far, so don't get mad at me guys, but I'm not in the same boat.



I have all of the popular detailing machines most people use: PC 7424, Cyclo, DeWalt rotary, and a Metabo. I even have a UDM on the way, which should be here any day now.



I initially bought the DeWalt rotary, and had a lot of trouble using it, and just plain didn't care for it. I was told that the reason I was having negative results was because I was trying to use too large of a pad, and the DeWalt was too heavy, so I bought a Metabo, and used smaller pads.....same issues. I've watched every video I could find with tips on how to use the rotary, and used my two rotaries on several details. I have now become fairly good with the rotary (after a LOT of trial and error), and my final decision.....I don't like it.



I'm not in a rush, and I don't detail vehicles with extremely bad finishes. Most of my details are on fairly new vehicles that are kept up fairly well, and the rotary is overkill for me.



Even if I plan on doing a big polishing job, I would still rather grab my PC and/or Cyclo over the rotary any day.
 
The rotary is just another tool in the arsenal for me. I love my PC and my Cyclo, but I keep the rotary around for those times when you need the speed and power. I found the rotary MUCH easier to use with 6" and smaller pads.
 
Just made the switch about 6 weeks ago and haven't looked back. My hitachi cuts cut polishing time practically in half...
 
Yea I don't think I've ever seen a comment on here of anyone switching to a rotary that didn't think it was by far the best move they've ever made. Rotary's are not hard to use at all. Make the job much more effective and quicker. To me it's called using the right tool for the right job. the PC can do it but at so much more effort and time why?
 
I find the rotary is much better for deep correction in both terms of effectiveness and speed. On some finishes, I still need to use a PC to make the paint hologram free, but working finishing polishes with a PC is fine.
 
+1 on the rotary. I've been using it for a few months but what a difference! I would have picked one up much sooner if I knew how easy it is to use. If you are having trouble with flat pads skipping you might want to change to Edge Wave or LC CCS pads, they skip a bit less. That's the only issue I had with the rotary.



I only use my PC for LSPs and carpet cleaning.
 
i have to agree with another poster here...the PC now feels like a loud, vibrating, cranky thing now after using a quiet super smooth hitachi rotary !
 
A question from a new PC user: in general, how much time is saved by using a rotary vs. a PC? I've detailed the equivalent of 3 vehicles (quite a lengthy process when you're talking about hard clear and paint that's never been cared for) and today I started thinking that my time is pretty important to me. If I'm going to be doing a few friends' cars, it might be worth it to just spend $200 on a rotary, practice a bit on some junkyard pieces, and save some time in the long run. If I can save even 2 or 3 days worth or work, I think it might be worth it.
 
Learning how to use the rotary only adds to your experience in detailing. I don't think anyone replaces a PC/UDM with a rotary. Its an addition to the PC/UDM and cuts the time to correct drastically. It has cut my time in correcting some pretty bad jobs. I think learning the rotary will only make you better and faster at paint correction.
 
I've got a PC and a Makita. Unless I need to do some serious corrections, I'll use the PC with an yellow - orange pad. The polishes I use finish down LSP ready and I apply a wax with the blue pad and I'm done. If I use the rotary for the same process, I find that it's not as easy, I have to watch for trim and moldings, the actual time spent per panal is about the same and I can man-handle the PC in more places. Please note, that the cars I detail are daily drivers and beaters, the customers are not taking it to the car show and they and I are more concerned with keeping the clear coat as thick as possible. To them, a few stray scratches that you only see if you tilt you head under the lights at the gas station - well, they ain't a big deal.
 
I'd like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don't remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don't know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?
 
MikeWinLDS said:
I'd like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don't remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don't know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?
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just got a makita rotary, used my new UDM once. Its a lot more powerfull, the controll is slightly harder but you have to realize that its more important also. It you slip around or hang on a spot too long w/ a UDM, no big deal, w/ a rotary, well hope for the best(not meant to make people fearful). This is on a cutting step. The rotary seems to bring more shine IMO. I plan on using it on my daily driver that i've already gone over w/ the UDM, see if I can get to some of the scratches that were still there beause I didnt have more time.
 
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