Process with AutoGlym?

I

imported_liam

New member
starting off - i have a 6 year old subaru impreza - negeleted for the first 5 years off its life - looks after well for the past year. has a fair amount of light swirling, nothing very deep. maybe one or two big scratches but i won't worry too much about those yet.

so can someone with a bit of background with autoglym products tell me if this process will be okay??:nixweiss

-wash

-clay

-wash

- meg's #80 applied by machine with megs W8000 or W8006 pads. (apparently its a number 4 on the abasivness scale)

- AG super resin polish (i would figure its about a 2)

-AG extra gloss protection

- mothers cal. gold caranuba.



or i was thinking of getting meg's deep crystal polish (instead of AG SRP) to fill any of the really light swirls i missed with #80 then seal... and what about #82???



how does this sound? - have i missed anything?
 
I don't wash after clay it's just extra work IMO. Take pics I like hearing about Autoglym, it's on my new procucts to try list. I'm not sure if I'd top it with that Mothers, at least for a couple of days. I'd use the twins together BTW. I'm not sure about #80, isn't that a one step that leaves a somewhat oily surface? I could be wrong it's been a while, but I'd use a pure light polish, then the twins.
 
I'm not familiar with #80. Going by the name, I assume it has fillers that would be removed by AG Resin Polish, making #80 a wasted step. If you have defects to remove, I would use a pure abrasive polish. Was thinking DACP fit that description but then I read "rich polishing oils" on Meg's website so I wonder if it has fillers?
 
I agree with Burly on the wash. I wouldn't wash a second time after the clay.



#80 is a great product for light swirling. It's easy to use, breaks down quick, and for me it doesn't make a lot of dust or mess. The SRP is more chemical than anything. It'll be fine for prepping the paint for EGP. If you wanted to be daring, you could put the EGP right on the #80. I suspect you'll find EGP has some light swirl hiding ability, much like Klasse SG does. Just give it time to cure before tossing on the carnauba.



I don't think Deep Crystal Polish will improve much on the surface the #80 will leave, but it's up to you. To me it seems kind of a pointless step, I'd sooner go with the SRP step after #80. :wavey
 
I think megs #80 from what i have read and heard on here may very well help you with your swirling, and perhaps more importantly may help to give some depth to the final finish. I am always a little dissapointed with AG (if you check out my gallery my last detail was done with AG twins), I feel that for me the shine although very glossy is a little flat, almost glass like.



I am always trying new methods to try and achieve the finish I am a looking for, and that finish will be wet even liquid looking, not smooth and glassy ... if that makes sense?



I probably wouldn't wash after the clay either, and if the AG finish is what you are trying to achieve, and you follow the instructions on the bottles I am sure you will be pleased. One more thing, a tip that was given to me (but I forgot to try) is to apply the resin polish, but don't wipe it off, then apply the Extra Gloss protection and buff that out.



19926p21sbonnet2.jpg




Good luck :)



Oh yes my gallery is here

http://autopia.org/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=19926&cat=500&thumb=1



Sorry, forgot to mention, that I topped my car with P21s afterwards
 
Autoglym Extra gloss is designed to work with the Super Resin, its best if you use the resin first. I have used megs swirl free, AG srp and EG and then topped with a good carnuba and got some good results on most colours.
 
liam, I can't see a problem following #80 with SRP. It'll probably remove some of the fillers that Megs polishes contain.



Apply SRP and let it cure for several hours before removing.



Apply EGP very thinly and let it cure overnight before removing. EGP is a hybrid carnauba/synthetic wax, and it's layerable. Wait 24hrs between layers.



Do this and you won't need to top with a carnauba past wax...unless you want to experiment. :D
 
You can use #80 before SRP but yeah, the SRP will clean off the stuff #80 leaves behind. The #80 will still remove some marring through mechanical abrasion though so no problem. But I dunno if the #80 will have the cut you need for that job.



I really like SRP, I sure wouldn't replace it with anything except *maybe* AIO. No comparison between SRP and the Meg's DC stuff, IMO. The DC is sorta like a cheap/consumer version of #81 as best I can tell (anybody who knows different feel free to correct me on this).



I seldom let SRP sit all that long before removing. I do sometimes apply a second "coat" of SRP a day later, but I apply it *very* gently. Depsite the cleaners, it seems to "layer" to some extent *if* you apply it gently enough (at least the "double application" lasts longer than a "single application" if they're both left untopped). Might not be worth the effort if using the EGP though.



I too have heard about applying EGP to unbuffed SRP and also mixing the two to make a "cleaner wax" of sorts, but neither idea appealed to me. Especially the former; since most people apply too much of everything, the EGP will probably just be sitting on "waste" SRP that's gonna get buffed off anyhow.
 
okay thanks guys

i am really looking for a abrasive polish to remove light swirling - from what i see here - #80 is more of a filler type polish, which is no good. unfortunatly i can't get DACP down under so thats outta the question - can anyone recommend a good polish for Before the AG twins???



btw, i have used the twins in the way mentioned (ie applying EGP over SRP) and it seems that the EGP just dissolves the excess SRP leaving only the EXP to buff off... not sure on how different to results would be but it saves time. :D
 
Aurora40 said:
I know it's OT, but just a quickie: Do you have the same Cyclo issue with SRP that you have with AIO?
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Not that I recall but it was sorta a thick product (especially after being "worked" for a while) for the Cyclo finishing pads. To be honest, I haven't done SRP by Cyclo for a while. I got in the habit of doing it (and AIO) by PC, in part due to the wider choice of pads. But I'd probably remember any real problems with it the way I remembered the issues with AIO.



liam- I think you might be overestimating the filling characteristics of #80 while underestimating its abrasiveness. But anyhow, I'd use 3M PI-III RC (05933) followed by PI-III MG (05937) or their new "P3000" series equivalents.



Oh, and not to beat a dead horse, but using SRP/EGP that way would, IMO, entail using way more EGP than I'd ever use. I put all my LSPs on far too thin to dissolve SRP residue. Don't mean to be :argue about it.
 
The direct application of EGP is a time saving process and as yet I have not noticed any difference in the shine. I have been spraying the Gloss onto a pad, which for me helps reduce the amount of product needed.



In terms of the Resin, I remember an article many years ago where their (Autoglym) head technical guy said to leave the Resin on the paint for as long as possible to fully cure. I am not sure if it is still available but Autoglym used to sell a video, they applied the Resin and then worked on the interior.



I have had some success with applying a chemical cleaner prior to Resin which for me has yielded an improvement in the shine, I guess AIO would be perfect for this.



Hope all this makes sense, we have just had our first real hot meal since Friday and it is taking some time for the heater to warm our house.
 
Lowejackson said:
In terms of the Resin, I remember an article many years ago where their (Autoglym) head technical guy said to leave the Resin on the paint for as long as possible to fully cure. I am not sure if it is still available but Autoglym used to sell a video, they applied the Resin and then worked on the interior.
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It's still the recommended way of doing it for both the SRP and EGP. Some of their online tutorials and technical sheets make this recommendation. For maximum protection, gloss, and ease of removal several hours of curing time are required...the longer the better, ie. overnight. Of course, they can't put it on the bottle as the average consumer may be discouraged from buying it he thinks he'll have to wait.



liam, #80 is definitely an abrasive polish (4 on their abrasive scale) that will remove swirls and minor scratches. It's available at most auto shops that sell Megs. If they don't stock it, they can order it in for you...at least Autobarn can.
 
Lowejackson said:


Hope all this makes sense, we have just had our first real hot meal since Friday and it is taking some time for the heater to warm our house.
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Oh dear, you without power due to the recent high winds ? :(
 
Yup, Carlisle took the brunt of the weather, at least our house only had very minor damage but we were very lucky.



I view the direct application of Gloss without buffing the Resin as an alternative to the normal method.



To get back to the original question, it has already been talked about but for the Gloss, a very very thin layer is the trick.



Just on a slightly different note, I have tried the Resin & Gloss on some internal (house) windows to see what happens. So far, it seems to work ok, therefore I have applied them to the car glass with the exception of the windscreen. I will report back any findings.
 
Lowejackson said:
The direct application of EGP is a time saving process and as yet I have not noticed any difference in the shine. ..In terms of the Resin, I remember an article many years ago where their (Autoglym) head technical guy said to leave the Resin on the paint for as long as possible to fully cure.
Click to expand...



Interesting! OK, I'll take your (and Autoglym's :D ) word for it.



I have had some success with applying a chemical cleaner prior to Resin which for me has yielded an improvement in the shine, I guess AIO would be perfect for this.
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This one I don't really understand, as I've found SRP to be a pretty good chemical cleaner itself :confused: Seems to me that it and AIO are too similar to use back to back. But hey, I've been wrong about this stuff before!



Heh heh, just goes to show how little you can know about a product that you've used for years :o Guess we in the states don't get the same amount of product info that you folks do (but then I never looked too hard for it either).



Glad to hear you've got the heat back on.
 
Hi I'm a newbie and I want to know whether these steps will work.

Wash -> Clay -> SRP -> DC2(pure polish) -> NXT Tech Wax. Some says DC2 and NXT won't bond to the surface of SRP as it already contains sealants. Is it true? I want my car to be extra-wet looking so, I think DC2 will help. Please correct if i'm worng.
 
Hi I'm a newbie and I want to know whether these steps will work.

Wash -> Clay -> SRP -> DC2(pure polish) -> NXT Tech Wax. Some says DC2 and NXT won't bond to the surface of SRP as it already contains sealants. Is it true? I want my car to be extra-wet looking so, I think DC2 will help. Please correct if i'm worng.



Hello



B/c the paintwork will be sealed after the SRP its unlikly much of the DC2 will have anywhere to go except dry and wiped off. You can still apply it, but i dont think it will go very far its just glazing oils which are best applied to bare paintwork.



NXT over DC2 is a process thats been used for yrs, the TS oils are compatible and it should be great.



Even if you just went SRP with NXT over the top that would be good too, again another tried and tested method.



Geoff
 
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