Pretty cool trick I thought of.

A

autoprincess

New member
Had a '97 Toyota Land Cruiser come in the other day, and the paint was bascially shot. One of my guys buffed the car and did all the necessary steps up to that point, but after he had washed the car the paint was dull again, a little better then originally. My guy knows how to buff so it wasn't that. Rather than taking a bunch of extra steps with light duty compound and the such, I decided to leave it in the shop for basically 12-24 hours with some Mequiar's Gold Carnuba Cleaner Paste wax sitting on the paint (without removing till morning). Figured we would let the wax sit and let the paint soak up as much as possible.



Next morning came and we removed the wax and :wow:! The paint popped back the way we intended it to. We did a little water test and the water beeded right up.



(I think I should become a Mequiar's salesperson).
 
I have had this problem with older paint single stage after I buff it, it looks freaking amazing, but I can see constant waxing is necessary to keep the paint looking like that. It seems that single stage paint like to oxidize very quickly! I tell owners of cars that I buff that are single stage paint to keep waxing there car at least every 3-4 weeks!
 
Very good advice, I agree completely, just a matter if they do it or not. The wax has to protect the paint, because we all know that single stage has absolutely no protection by itself.
 
To be honest, not sure what a Polymer LSP is, so sorry if no help with your question. A little new with the Lengo around here what is LSP, that might help.
 
I was just wondering if a polymer sealant (last step product) might be better for old single stage paint than carnuba.
 
Thanks for informing me on the LSP. I use carnauba, I have also used Molecular Sealant, but it doesn't work like the carnauba. So to answer your question I am not sure if the Polymer sealant is better or worse, I don't really use it.
 
wannafbody said:
products with oils tend to enrich SS paints-an old trick was to use kerosene
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Traditional waxes will be better for SS finish as fbody said...haha but I wouldnt recommend the kerosene part! :)
 
autoprecise1 said:
Thanks for informing me on the LSP. I use carnauba, I have also used Molecular Sealant, but it doesn't work like the carnauba. So to answer your question I am not sure if the Polymer sealant is better or worse, I don't really use it.
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what do you mean by saying it "doesn't work like a carnuba", do you mean in looks...application....durability...????



this backs up my preconception that most detailing shops dont know anything about the latest products and procedures, they figured that if it worked 10-15-20 years ago, it still works now.... well... it may!! just not as good as it can .... autoprecise at least is trying to educate himself here so I give him props for that.... but for a detailer not to know what a Polymer Sealant is, or only use Carnuba's on cars that are obviously not show cars.... that is just not acceptable, and the reason??



1)On any 'street' vehicle ANY Carnuba will not last longer on the paint the 3-6 weeks MAX!!



obviously I'm talking about a daily driven vehicle that is regularly exposed to the elements.
 
FidoAUTO said:
edited my post... look again.. sorry
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You're post came off rather strong and I do agree with you; however, have you tried collinite insulator wax? I found the durability to be great for a carnauba...
 
I was referring to the Molecular Sealant not working like Carnauba. But your right about educating, I try to keep up with the latest, but I use what gives me the professional result (old or new, don't care about age of the concept). But if I come accross something that surpasses quality of my old way of doing something then that is the new process I adopt.
 
abbeysdad said:
How does a polymer LSP work over an older single stage?
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The older single stage lacquer paints found on older cars tend to dry out and crack or check. The thoughts were to use Carnauba base products since they contain oils they would keep the surface from cracking but keeping the paint flexible. I have heard arguments both ways but I still believe that it does help but anything will help to keep paint in top shape. The newer single stage paints are not lacquer base and are urethane base based paints don’t crack and check like the older paints. Some still say that urethane paints need Carnauba base products and again I have heard arguments both ways but I don’t believe they benefit from the oils in them and any sealant could be used. But I will say this that I think a Carnauba base products looks a lot better on single stage paints then even the best of the sealants but you do give up some durability. I currently own a PGP custom painted single stage that was done in 1999 that I use only Carnauba on.
 
awahl63 said:
You're post came off rather strong and I do agree with you; however, have you tried collinite insulator wax? I found the durability to be great for a carnauba...
Click to expand...



I realize about coming off strong....I feel strongly about the fact that if you're doing paint correction you have to protect it with the toughest most durable sealant there is.....



ok...no more threadjacking...... I have a 1989 Chev Z24 Convertible with Single Stage paint that is indoors all the time and I've experience the same thing as AP.... I'm going to try to leave carnuba on overnight.... AP what kind of carnuba did you use because with my experience if you leave a Carnuba product for too long it hardens to the point where its a PITA to get off....
 
That's what I thought about leaving it on overnight. I thought we would have to work the .... out of it to remove it all. But it came off much easier than I thought. We used Mother's California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax.
 
Maybe it was easy to remove because Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax isn't a very pure carnauba wax. The main purpose of the Mothers Cleaner Wax is to clean the surface, remove some oxidation, and provide some protection.



If you try a pure carnauba, like Collinite, Mothers Pure Carnauba Wax (different than cleaner wax), etc... it may be harder to remove. However, maybe if you apply it extremely thinly, it may be easy to remove.



BTW, is that the KDE logo in your avatar? :)
 
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