PC polishing with Meguiars 105... drying to fast!

G

Guitarist302008

New member
I'm doing some polishing on the truck that we have, which is pretty bad and someone recommended the 105 stuff to me... it seems like it's got good cut, but it dries wayyyyyyy to fast... before it can be broken down properly. Is there something I can add to this to help it to last longer? I'm not doing this in the sun or on hot body panels or anything. I tried the KBM and while it seemed to do ok, it's just not like my Menzerna SIP... I wish I had some powergloss or something.
 
Hi Guitarist, that's just the way the formulation is... Try getting the new D.A. re-formulated M105 see that works out for you. The only advice to work in low heat and out of the sun areas. I use to use the Menserna myself but have recently switched to the M105. Also the KBM is going to load up your surface real quick also. good luck
 
I do my polishing in the sun and what I've found that helps me is to give the panel a light mist of water every now and then. I used to fill up my spray bottle with tap water, but for some reason I found that it dried faster than bottled water.
 
Remember also that the 105 does not use diminishing abrasives so you don't work the polish until it breaks down. I've been struggling with it, too, but it works much better when you properly prime the pad and clean the pad after every other section or so. The short working time is awkward at first. I tend to stop at the first sign of drying and sometimes still have to use IPA to remove the residue.
 
KG21 said:
Remember also that the 105 does not use diminishing abrasives so you don't work the polish until it breaks down. I've been struggling with it, too, but it works much better when you properly prime the pad and clean the pad after every other section or so. The short working time is awkward at first. I tend to stop at the first sign of drying and sometimes still have to use IPA to remove the residue.
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yeah it is awkward from using the SIP which is a GREAT polish by the way... anyway, I am definitely used to being able to work polish into a panel for at least 3 minutes... sometimes more, so the minute or less I have with this stuff is strange.
 
Yeah, I know exactly what you mean. It takes a little getting used to. I have been using PO203S for most of my normal work and M105 only for the really nasty spots. Both are fantastic polishes IMHO, just completely different techniques.
 
Setec I think the water spritz thing is for rotaries, and it wasnt actually part of the KBM. I think he said it extended the working time but didnt finish down quite as well as when just working with the polish.



BTW, as someone already stated, you dont break it down. You work the area until the defects are gone and stop. Make sure your using quite a bit of pressure when working with it. Not enough to stop the rotation completely though.
 
I just got my M105 last week and noticed the same thing when using it over the weekend.



I ended up giving my pad on the DA (PC XP) a quick spray with tap water from aspray bottle, a VERY light mist, not much water at all... It made a huge difference in being able to take more then 1 pass with the M105.
 
Better be careful with that water addition business. I've done it (also used #34) and I did fine, but IMO that is in the "don't try this at home, kids" category. Check the pad often for clumped product and, well, don't blame me if you instill some *REALLY* awful marring. It really could lead to a *very* serious "oops" that you'll truly regret. I'm not kidding....



If the new/v2.0 M105 is drying out too fast, IMO you're either not priming the pad properly, or the panel is too hot, or you're working too large of an area. Or you're trying to use it the way you'd use a different product.



It's simply *different* from diminishing-abrasive products and it's used in a different way. Yeah, there can be a lot more pad cleaning with M105.



If you want more cut from it use a different machine or a harsher pad (3.5" and 4" PFW and Cyclo/Edge yellow and blue wool come to mind, but be careful with the yellow and even the blue can leave some real marks). I used the PC/M105/3.5" PFW combo on some *really* bad marring on *hard* clear the other day; took me right to the "barely any clear left" point just fine but it did take a few (section) passes.



But don't expect the PC to remove any serious marring with just one or three goes even with M105 no matter what pads you use..it's still a PC ;)
 
PG would be the closest product in terms of cut in the Menz line. FWIW, I've been getting very good results with PO203S and an Edge green (lt cut) pad on the Flex. It takes several passes and pressure to level bad RIDS, but it has absolutely been putting the smack down on moderate swirls. I've been following up with 106FF and I'm very impressed with the finish. I like the M205, but I LOVE 106FF. Good luck!!



Edit: I should include that this is on Toyota clear so it may perform differently on other paint.
 
Be careful with 106FF. It can do some pretty amazing concealing, even a well-regarded pro here had it hide some awful holograms. I know this one from first-hand experience as I watched the holograms reappear months later while the vehicle was in storage; the wax was still 100% but the previously invisible holograms appeared like magic (black magic).
 
Accumulator said:
Be careful with 106FF. It can do some pretty amazing concealing, even a well-regarded pro here had it hide some awful holograms. I know this one from first-hand experience as I watched the holograms reappear months later while the vehicle was in storage; the wax was still 100% but the previously invisible holograms appeared like magic (black magic).
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how does that happen?
 
Guitarist302008 said:
how does that happen?
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With some polishes, the oils in them that serve as lubricants can also fill in some light. You can wipe the panel down with 50% isopropyl alcohol after polishing to be sure none of this "filling" is going on.
 
drew.haynes said:
With some polishes, the oils in them that serve as lubricants can also fill in some light. You can wipe the panel down with 50% isopropyl alcohol after polishing to be sure none of this "filling" is going on.
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oh I see... I usually try to wash the car i'm working on after the polishing to remove any oils and such that may have built up... hopefully that is enough.
 
The first time I tried M105 (v2) was in the shade on a hot dry day, and even doing a 2'x2' area, it was drying before I could make a 2nd pass through the area. On a cooler, humid day it was easier, but with the dusting and having to do such small areas, I found myself using OC/OP instead for a similar final result.
 
Don't mean to thread-jack but I came on today to post basically the same issue.



I find that M105 dries to fast too and I'm looking for something else to use. My machine is a G110 and I use LC CCS pads.



The two compounds I've been thinking about are Menzerna Power Gloss or 3M Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound or 3M Perfect It III Extra Rubbing Compound.



My main use is to try to attack some clear coat failure (not looking for perfection, but some kind of improvement) and just some of the normal issues. I would follow up with M205.



Any input would be great.
 
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